Rpmayne

Ok may be they both just fell off then, blanked them both off a now it idles, happy days. Cheers.

Thanks for that, I’ll blank them off. Had it down the garage to bleed the brakes, may be they were left off. Cheers.

Hi, any idea what this is? Idle is rough especially cold, found the yellow bit in the middle of the picture sucking in air. If I block the holes up it improves the idle. Can’t see any other pipes disconnected. The open ends look clean as if something has fallen off. Cheers.

Thanks Bruno, I had a look again and they only have one left, and need the pair. Ordered from another supplier and they have cancelled because they now can’t get any from manufacturer..

Hi, has anyone got a pair of the early 80mm spring discs for the front VR6 suspension? The VR failed on the suspension leaking. I bought a new complete kit but turns out the set fitted to the car originally was the 60mm type. Apparently H&R only sell the bigger springs. Tried the usual eBay, Heritage, TPS, GSF etc. Found another online but after taking the order they have now said they can’t get them. Cheers.

Tried VagCom, came up with nothing up. Idles lumpy but does idle when hot, temp sensors look sensible. Hoping its the injectors, but why would 2,4,6 be rich (almost oily) compared to 1,3,5? Tried the search but never very successful. I remember 6 being prone to going oval. Bottom end was rebuilt with new everything including pistons, re-honed. Just wondered whether anyone had noticed the same trait with theirs, and found a cause.

The VR6 has refused to idle for a while and a bit flat around 4.5k when it used to pull well. Had been stored for a while so been working through changing PSV, ISV, vacuum hoses, nothing made a difference. It was rebuilt around 40k ago and the injectors weren't done, so thought I may as well get them cleaned and change the plugs. See the attached (cylinder 1 plug, inj, cylinder 2 plug, inj etc..), looks like cylinders 2,4,6 are running rich where as 1,3,5 are ok. Sooty rather than oily (at least I hope so, wet at thread but hoping that's the WD40 I used to take them out). Any ideas why the front bank would be different to the rear? Cheers.

I've managed to source a PCV (mine does look oily and not in good shape) which should be turning up next week, checking the pipes though and the T-pipe which connects to the PCV is spongy and cracked so was looking into replacing that. Not having much joy, tried VW and they're struggling to find the part on their system. Anyone else found a replacement, Samco etc? I bought a silicon hose kit and fitted a few years ago but pretty sure it didn't include this. Also heard the fuel pressure regulator can cause problems (pretty sure its running rich, plugs are black soot, not oily) and looking for one of them as well.

Hi, I've been having trouble with the VR6 idling since running after being stored for a year. Originally would start but idle very rough hot or cold. Checking the ISV and it was stuck. Cleaned it and got it moving but this then meant it wouldn't idle at all when cold. Bought a second hand ISV, same problem. Plugged into VAG-COM, no errors. TPS goes from about 12-93 degrees, coolant temp appears to be correct. Only change I can see is when I unplug the TPS, it hunts then instead of stalling. Plugging it back in when running makes it stall instantly. Any ideas? I did have an odd experience recently where I went round a roundabout quickly, and on the way out the revs dropped to idle yet I was pushing the accelerator. Pulled over, turned throttle manually and the revs picked up, got in and it was fine again...? Maybe / maybe not related.

Indeed the two problems, idle I've been dealing with holding the revs and using the hand brake until its hot enough to idle rough. I have VAG-COM somewhere but haven't plugged in yet. Had 1/2 tank petrol (with additive to try and clean the injectors as its been sitting for over a year). The weird thing was that I was holding the pedal right down, yet the engine just dropped to an idle, and the rev counter registered 0. Can't understand how the mechanical accelerator cable could be ignored, fly-by-wire yes, but surely opening the throttle would change the revs / kill the engine.

Hi, had a very strange experience in the VR6 at the weekend. Went round a roundabout in an enthusiastic fashion and on the way out the engine revs dropped to idle (engine braked). The engine was still running but the revs counter read 0 as if the ignition was off. Parked up and checked the throttle cable, moved throttle manually and revved fine. It then stalled as the idle is very rough, non existent when cold at the moment (another problem if anyone has any suggestions). Restarted and has been fine since, not exactly confidence building. What I can't work out is why pushing the accelerator pedal made no difference to the idle (with the revs needle showing none). Surely the opening of the throttle would have caused it to lean out and stall if the MAF etc had stopped responding? Baby due imminently, think I will take her in another car just incase...

Thanks for replies, so universal BMC CDA as this link; http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/69408/volkswagen/bmc-cda-induction-kits/accda85-150.html The 42 dd (interesting google search results) OBD1 version for the VR6 Golf which I assume fits the Corrado; http://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/42-draft-designs/42-draft-designs-upper-intake-tube-mk3-golf-vr6/ That all sound right? Cheers.

Just got the Corrado running after yet another year stored. The intake pipe between the throttle body and MAF has split and the idle is very rough. Probably not the only reason but I thought it would be a good excuse to buy a BMC CDA and replacement pipe. Problem is I can't find either.. Has anyone else tried to do similar recently? I thought BMC sold a specific kit and there was a fabricated ally pipe available to replace the flimsy intake pipe, maybe I'm wrong, or they are no longer available, or both..

My 3yo sons birthday is coming up and I'm thinking a ride on electric car is the way to go. Can take it places in the van so thought it would be a laugh, just don't know which are any good. Anyone had any experience with these and any recommendations. He is obsessed with the car door so needs to open / close, will be used on grass / woods so fairly powerful (with good battery life or I can buy 2 and change them over to get home), and remote override if he gets a bit spirited and takes a particularly dangerous route. A VAG one would obviously be good. Cheers.

A bit late with my reply… ISV bypasses the throttle body.

Had this myself, a few things to check; HT leads knackard (look at night for sparks) Coil pack, cracks in the casing, mine failed and stopped firing on 1 cylinder, was intermittent initially. ISV dirty / not working; Try cleaning with some carb cleaner. Remove and check it opens / closes. Air leaks. I had a split in the throttle body end of the plastic tube from the MAF, still taped up now with duct tape. That was causing it to be lumpy and cut out sometimes on mine. Good luck.

Thanks for that, are these roofs a different mechanism to the Corrado one then? And connection wise do they connect direct to the late Corrado connector? Sorry if this is well known, just if this is the answer spot on.

Hi, been trawling through the sunroof threads, tried to look for a 2nd hand Corrado one (although the general consensus seems to be they are complete crap and will fail again) with no joy, phoned VW for the repair kits and they are unavailable, and even asked VW for a new complete cassette, again unavailable. So basically repairing it (mine just clicks, has dropped on one side letting water in) seems difficult parts wise and ultimately pointless given the useless design, and I can't source a 2nd hand one (again ultimately pointless). Onto solutions; Weld it up (a suggestion on here I am seriously considering except I don't have air-con) or swap out for an alternative that works. Is there a sunroof mechanism from another car that is fit for purpose and that will directly fit and keep the metal roof? (Passat moonroof gets a mention, can the glass be swapped for the metal lid?) If so cars and ages that will work please. If keeping the metal roof is not possible, glass alternates? Sorry if this has been covered, the car is off the road because of the roof leaking (after spending £1500 on partial respray) and just want a solution that works. I haven't been on this forum for years and didn't realise new part are getting so difficult to source (stealer and 2nd hand). Hopefully if someone can help then others will be able to find this easily and sort theirs as well. Cheers all.

Turning the allen key now just makes a clicking noise. I knew it was broken before that, would slide at a angle and scratch the sunroof. They've just finished it off.

Alright, do you still have the sunroof? It it was in perfect working order, how much please and delivery to Brighton area. Thanks, Richard.

Sorry…. Haven't been on here for years, remember someone mentioning service kits for the useless sunroofs these cars were fitted with. Mine is shot, turning the allen key manually just makes a clicking noise and one corner has dropped. VW don't sell the complete thing anymore, none in UK stock. I changed it once about 10 years ago, still have the same car but doesn't work again. Maybe (very likely) me but don't find searching on this site straight forward anymore. Any pointers much appreciated. Cheers.

Sunroof the pressing bit, anyone breaking and got one that works? Late type. Cheers.

Is the sunroof working and do you still have it, if so how much? Cheers, Richard.

Got the VR6 back on the road after a few years parked up, forgot how good it is, anyhow need some bits (have tried searching with no joy). Complete sunroof that works, mine's a '93 with a flat black connector. Spray shop have broken mine, now won't close. Leather steering wheel, 3-spoke late one. Scuttle panels. Strips for roof gullies. Thanks for any help.

I have had the Corrado off the road for around a year now, was fine until a windscreen replacement by Autoglass. Don't let them anywhere near it. I had the old screen removed by them, minor rust sorted by a local bodyshop, then they refitted (all at the bodyshop site). Rust came out around the whole screen where they wrestled the new screen in, the plastic trip was cracked and the internal trim wouldn't fit properly because there was so much glue used. Worst of all, the screen cracked within a few months because it wasn't set in properly. All in all could have killed the car if I didn't like it so much. Went back to them and got a new windscreen unfitted free, now finally looking at doing the job privately. Sorry to hijack thread but was very unhappy with Autoglass hacking the car apart and denying fault (except for giving me another screen). Hoping to be on the road soon...