Rpmayne

Just had a look over the engine and the only label I can see stuck to the LHS of the head has a big barcode and the code BAG 066 062. Does that sound right? I went out armed with a tooth brush and WD40 but the weather is rubbish so will try cleaning it later on. Looks pretty tight, take it you can't take the connector off without removing the ECU first.

Just tried it and after a lot of messing about I got some codes out. On the first run I got the following: 16500 - Engine coolant temp. sensor (G62): Implausible signal - intermittent 18354 - Control Module 1 for cooling fan, faulty 18041 - Accelerator position sensor 2 (G185): Signal too low - Lower limit exceeded 17440 - Sensor for NOx (G295): Signal too high - Upper limit exceeded - Intermittent 18322 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294), Implausible Signal 18321 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294), Short to Ground 17477 - NOx Sensor (G295) Heater control: Short to ground - Lower limit exceeded 16705 - Engine speed sensor (G28): Implausible signal 17796 - Internal Control Module drive by wire error; Control Module Malfunction - DBW Throttle Monitoring After a codes reset I had the following: 18041 - Accelerator position sensor 2 (G185): Signal too low - Lower limit exceeded 17477 - NOx Sensor (G295) Heater control: Short to ground - Lower limit exceeded 18321 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294), Short to Ground 16705 - Engine speed sensor (G28): Implausible signal 18322 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294), Implausible Signal Bearing in mind that the ECU has only been in for 2 weeks so no old codes, the first set is pretty alarming, and the second is not much better. Is it possible there is a common issue with some of these things. I'm going to see what the replacements cost now but it seems like a lot needs changing if its telling the truth. Thanks.

I have got VagCom which I have used (a long time ago) on the Corrado VR6, I haven't got the keys to check but do you know whether the connector is the same in the mk5 Golf? Thanks.

Cheers, I will try and get it to the garage to see what it says. Last time apparently near enough every code came up, hence they went for the ECU as being the fault. This morning it started but the rev counter looked like it was loosing power, flicking from 1000k to nothing very fast without the engine speed actually changing. Then when pressing the accelerator nothing happened, seemed to be ignoring the accelerator position sensor. Turned off, restarted and the pedal would then work for a bit, then die again. The engine light and EPC lights are both on. Regarding the fan, it still overruns after the ECU has been changed. Thanks.

Please help, my dad has a Golf 1.6 FSi on a 04 plate. Had a few problems recently with the fan overrunning after switching off for literally hours. Had to take the fan fuse out overnight to stop the battery going dead. The EPC light was coming on, then this went on to the car seeming to limit itself to 4000 revs, then cutting out and not restarting. The local garage had it, a new ECU later (did show signs of water damage) and a bill of around £2000 it has started doing the same. Obviously a bit upset now, anyone got any ideas? I know this could probably be anything but we need to try something as the garage with the diagnostics couldn't find it and can't afford to spend anymore garage money on it. Thanks for any help.

Cheers, maybe a faulty piece of pipe then, though wondered because of the angles the pipe goes round its being over-stressed. I don't have the originals now, otherwise I would have taken them to a hydraulics company to make some proper ones up..

Is the VR6 fuel line definitely 8mm anyone? Found mine leaking after replacing them with the Halfords pipe only a year ago I recon, a big split and pipes look all cracked, not good. Was spraying onto the exhaust manifold, left it running then came back and opened bay to check, could have been bye bye rado. Phoned the dealers and apparently they only make one of them now. Don't really want to risk the Halfords again, has anyone found anyone else who can supply them? Thanks.

Any one got any ideas how to release a stuck passenger door without cutting the door card to bits? The last time it opened it would not latch, the mechanism on the outside was sticking. Got it moving again, door shut and has never opened since. Had a mate with the break in kit for picking up cars and he could not lift the mechanism down the outside of the glass. When using the key it feels detatched, and on the central locking it tries to move the pin up but only a few mm then once the pump stops it sinks again. It's leather interior, any ideas please? Thanks.

I've been trying to get the Corrado through the MOT and before it goes in the ABS light comes on as in the above posts with the 'ABS Hydraulic Pump 16-00 Signal outside specifications' error code. I've checked the connections to the ABS pump (multiplug front, one on the front and one on the side behind the coolant tank) and all look very clean. Where is the ABS ECU? When connecting via VAG-COM I kept getting communication errors and the reporting was as follows: Control Module Part Number: 1H0 Ï07 379 E Component and/or Version: ABS/EDS ÂEVEÿ 04. Seemed abit corrupt to me, maybe the ABS ECU connector. Thanks. ---------- Post added at 08:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ---------- Not to worry, for future searches (found it eventually) the ABS ECU is located in the passenger footwell left hand side near the lower door hinge, need to remove the panel that meets with the kick panel trim to locate it. Removed the connector, looked very clean but WD40'd it and the three relays behind the glove box (not sure whether related but did them anyway) and it now works! Just hope it works long enough to pass the MOT.

Thanks for the ideas, didn't realise there were specialists in seals etc and keep forgetting that these cars are getting on now and difficult to get bits for. Just ordered a rad for the VR6, £200 odd from VW, only 2 left in the country and after that obsolete apparently. Asked for the flaps in the air box, no chance. I recon the duct tape will be the option, the other will not cover in one go, and to be honest I'm not too bothered about the cushioning effect (and after buying the rad not much funds).

I've had the VR off the road for about 7 months now waiting for the enthuasm to fix a growing list of problems with it. One on my list was broken heater controls, so today started. I found a good new set a while ago, but forgot what a ba$tard these cars are to work on. Anyway, after stripping everything but the exhaust to get the box out the foam on the flaps within the heater diverter box has fallen off and jammed the controls up. Probably what caused the controls to finally give up. Question is, has anyone had to recover these flaps and recommend a material to do it? Must admit I did this once before when the matrix blew up, replaced it with foam they use for pc silencing but the stick wasn't up to the job. Thanks.

I checked the fuel pressure today, borrowed a kit from the local garage where to plum a gauge in-line with the fuel feed between the fuel pump feed and the filter. Without a prime the pressure is 0, when the ignition is turned on there is a small prime (humm from the pump) which barely moves the needle. When starting it turns over for a longer time than normal then once the pressure reaches around 3 bar the engine starts. Once started the pressure sits around 3.6 bar. Now when giving it a quick blip of the throttle, when the revs drop to idle level the pressure rises, sometimes to around 4 bar when the car stalls. Should the pressure be a constant 3.5 bar regardless of what the revs are doing? Seems to me I have two problems, one the pump does not prime to 3.5 bar hence the hard starting, and when revs drop the pressure is not be governed well enough so the engine runs rich and stalls. When doing a prime, what tells the pump the correct pressure is reached? And is it possible the FPR is not reacting quickly enough to limit the fuel pressure when the revs drop? Thanks for any help.

Forgot to mention, plugs have been changed, old ones very sooty, as is the exhaust. When on ignition only I could hear the fuel pump constantly priming. I turned it off then on and this time it didnt prime at all. How is the fuel pressure governed? Also, putting the indicators on does a fuel pump prime... :confused4:

Been a while I know but now being temporarily redundant I've had abit of time to play with the VAG-COM. I have since changed the MAF as a shot in the dark with no improvement. Plugged the VAG-COM in today and no faults except lambda intermittently out of range and engine speed sensor. As it stalled during the test I expect these would come up anyway. A couple of things which I wasn't sure about were: Binary position code reading - sitting at 0010 at idle, 0100 when throttle depressed, goes to 0011 when throttle released then back to 0010. Is this the throttle position as a binary value, and if so shouldn't it count as binary (ie. 0001, 0010, 0011, 0100, etc)? The vehicle speed block always reads 0. Intake temperature is at 60deg.C which seems abit hot to me. Unfortunately no obvious faults to me, I know it well overfuelled, on overrun to idle its popping and spluttering all over the shop, very sooty exhaust. Have changed the plugs, the last ones came out sooty, not the good golden brown. Got lots of ABS faults, differential lock failure, front wheel sensor implausable, etc.. That's another story anyway, used to not having it now.

Cheers Supercharged, I phoned VW and they mentioned the nylon sleeve, I haven't seen the kit myself so couldn't say for sure that it is included. Reagrdless though, for the money they want for the complete one I'm going to order that instead. Sorted!

If the head is off you need to remove the cams, pull the hydraulic lifters off then use a spring compressor which compresses the valve springs so you can remove the split collets with a screwdriver. The valve should then fall out the other side. Just need to get hold of the valve spring compressor.

I've got alot of play on one of the rear calipers, it can be rocked a good few mm resulting in an annoying rattle when driving. Feathering the brake pedal stops it. I can only see that this is due to the caliper carrier guide pins having too much slack. A new assembly is apparently around £80 from VW, where as they also sell a kit which includes the dust bellows and a nylon sleeve that fits between the carrier bracket and the guide pins for £11. Has anyone used the kit before? Just thinking that if the nylon sleeve had been missing for a while there may be damage to the pins. Also, do the guide pins need taking out to change the sleeve, and if so how? Cheers.

Thanks for the reply Kev. I couldn't find the VAG-COM at the weekend, been along time since I've used it. The old MAF has been cropping up again and again, might just take the plunge and buy one. Will see what the VAG-COM says though. Cheers.

Thanks Fla.

Thinking about it, am I right in thinking the MAF is ignored at full throttle?

1. I'll hook up the VAG-COM tonight if I can find the laptop I used to use. Thing is I got very sceptical of the errors it used to throw up. Generally oxgen sensor out of range. Wiring to Lambda redone by VW, on my 3rd sensor, no difference. So took it that it could actually be anything causing it to run rich/lean hence bad burn. 2. Top hose had a split, sealed it off. Remember years ago a mechanic spraying WD40 over my 16v Golf intake pipe and found a leak because it stalled it. Tried this, can't find anything else. 3. Will try that, is it 109? 4. The MAF is the rip-off wire type, is there a procedure to check this? Make up a dummy loom, start the car and check the output to the ECU? 5. Cleaned the ISV, opens and shuts (leaves about 1mm gap). Cheers for the help, been away from this forum for a while.

I've been living with the VR6 stalling occassionally pretty much since I bought it about 7 years ago but now things seem to be getting worse. It always used to start on the button, now it normally (but not always) take several seconds of turning over before it fires. The idle is as its always been, luck more than a constant, hunts, revs seem to drop very quickly, every trip it will stall when the clutch is disengaged at least once. The more annoying thing that its now decided to do is run ok under little load but sound like a Subaru on full throttle. Funny for a while but the power is way down. Another strange thing it how the pump primes. It used to do a approx. 1 second buzz when the ignition it on. It can now either do one very short buzz or sometimes cycle until the car is started i.e. buzz-pause-buzz-pause-buzz....etc... And to top it off, if it does stop priming as it should, turning the indicators on makes the pump prime again. WTF??? Has anyone got any tests they have carried out to positively identify the offending components? I've read through many threads on here but the majority are to try changing this. I've never been that lucky to get it right, just spend hard earned Stella money on new shiny bits that make no difference.

Has anyone bought one of these MAF's from ebay? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Corrado-Golf-Passat-VR6-Air-Flow-Meter-0280213021_W0QQitemZ230368987375QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item35a30fc8ef&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.I've had intermittent stalling, sluggish pull sometimes onder 2k revs for ages but never wanted to pay the £200+ I thought these were. Anyone got any good / bad reports? Cheers. * sorry about the long link, how do you get 'here' to link to that address?

Thanks for the info. Cheers for the offer stevej but I was really tring to avoid any mods to the car like the holes in the spare wheel bay etc. VAG-hag, that sounds more like what I was after, let me know if it does go up for sale. Now for the boat... :grin:

I take it nobody has fitted a tow bar which doesn't need the bumper cutting or any other nasty mods to the car?