Rpmayne

Ok sounds good for the electrics then, may pick the connections up via solder joint / heatshrink and pass the cable through the ABS sensor gromit. I tried searching this and the net and thought there may be a tow bar you could get that attaches to the rear bumper bolt fixings and feeds under the bumper?

I have been offered a 'project' speed boat with trailer and if I do take it up will need a tow bar on the Corrado. I know its not the done thing but a boat just sounds like a good laugh to me. Anyway; Does anyone know of a make/model of tow bar that will fit to the Corrado without any holes or welding that is ideally detached easily when not in use? Also, I take it the brake / indicator / number plate electrics are mandatory, is there a kit for this? Thanks.

I can feel a little bit of slack but nothing that I wouldn't expect from a 120k gearbox and running gear. I thought it was pretty unusual to need to change the inner CV joints as they don't do so much moving, and didn't expect there to be any slack between the splines.

I've taken the driveshaft out to change the outer CV joint boot for the MOT and noticed the inner joint has about 1mm play on the driveshaft splines. There doesn't appear to be any play in the joint itself, just in respect to the shaft. Do you recon the inner CV needs changing or can I just ignore it? Cheers.

Cheers, will check those bolts and try the fix you suggested. Sod replacing it, bodge sounds good to me.

Sorry to resurrect an old post but did anyone figure out how to tighten the UV joint up to stop the up/down wobble between the pin and teeth? More importantly has anyone been pulled up for it on the MOT? VW reconed it was the top bearing and failed it, which it isn't as the cowling moves aswell. I'm not after any handling improvements etc, just so it passes the MOT.

Just got the verdict back from VW.. They think the MAF is to blame. They recon the part is 180 quid exchange and is now obsolete so only stock left is available through them. I hope that doesn't mean Bosch have given up making them aswell. No mention of the fuel pump priming issues so assume they've given up on that. Something is definitely not right there and looks like I will be waisting my free time finding that. I have more pressing issues now though; MOT fail on... CV boot split / CV joint, roll bar linkages, front brake pipes, upper steering bearing excessive wear (what's that about??) and probably more. Will get the exhaustive list tomorrow. Tired and skint and just want rid...

To be honest I've had mixed dealings with JMR and G-werks seemed mainly concerned with Gxx engines. The VAG dealer is only 10 miles away and I get a courtesy car which will hopefully be a R32 :notworthy: , although I very much doubt it. Shame Stealth is so far away, had a chat with one of the blokes there for about 20mins suggesting other things to try, very helpful. It's in for Wednesday and I'll post what they come up with, and whether its being broken shortly after. :brickwall:

Tested the MAF last night as that has come up in posts before as a possible culprit. Checked across one of the brown (earth) wires and the red wire. Apparently there should be 2.3v at hot idle and 2.8v at 3000 rpm. This was the case so assume the MAF is ok. I think I will just throw it at the local VW garage, Stealth is about 3.5hrs away unfortunately otherwise it would go there.

I don't know of anyone nearby with a VR6 so will probably have to wait until one comes up on ebay. The VAG-COM is reporting 2 errors now, idle regulation not met and oxygen sensor regulation control limit not reached.

Fitted the Lambda tonight and as I feared its made no difference. The Lambda which came out was very sooty which would point to over-fuelling wouldn't it? Also on idle the lambda regulation sits at 0.8, does that correspond to over-fuelling aswell? Help... When revved the lambda regulation goes to what looks like normal (1.0 +0.02), then settles down again and sits at 0.8. I tried the ECU reset, drove round for 30min etc but felt no different before or after. Took plugs 1 & 2 out to have a quick look and they looked ok, grey / light brown colour. VW fitted them and they're two pronged NGK's the gap between them being 5.23mm and the electrode is 1.93 diameter.

Just incase anyone searches for it, the part number for a original Bosch VR6 Lambda sensor ( 4 wire white, white, grey, black) is 0258003267. I got one from GSF for £49.00+VAT. Will try and fit tonight if the rain stops and do the ECU reset procedure. Fingers crossed.

If you can use the key as described to close the windows and doors then it shouldn't cost much more if anything. I recently got a quote for a getting a new Clifford Concept 650 fitted and they said that if the car had the closure via the lock originally then it won't cost anymore to get the alarm working with that.

Just thought I'd post this for searching as I found out why my central locking / total closure was not working via the drivers door lock / switch. I took the drivers door card off and checked the supply to the lock switches. Seems that VW split the supplies via a solder joint in the loom sitting in the bottom of the door under the lock (describes this in the Bentley CD manual). As the insulation had been stripped back water had got in the joint and wires had corroded and broken. Connected them back up and all good.

My '94 VR6 has total closure as standard through the door lock / switch. If the windows are left down, just holding the key in the lock position closes the windows and doors. It shouldn't cost any more for an aftermarket to be fitted and intercept the door lock / switch wiring to do the same thing via the original wiring as the function is already there.

I did get the part number off the alternator last night but I haven't got it with me. It's a genuine VW I bought about 3 years ago marked up as 90A/14v. I know it was a long shot but I have spent so much on things I didn't need (such as the alternator) that I just wanted to be sure. Right, ordering a lambda after this message. Don't know about the fuel pump bit (very strange) but if I get it idling I'll be alot happier. Thanks again.

The reason I'm asking is primarily because of a stalling problem but also other strange symptoms which I thought may lead to a regulator problem; - When on ignition before cranking over the fuel pump sometimes does multiple prime cycles. With the meter yesterday the fuel pump primed then stopped as normal. I then turn the lights on and the volts dropped below 12v and the fuel pump primes again. I just wonder whether dips on the supply are causing the fuel pump relay to start over. - ABS faults intermittently appear, the latest is 00280 - Differential lock valve 2 (N126). - With the engine at idle with all accessories on the illumination brightness is dim, and picks up to normal when revved over 1k. Surely this shouldn't happen? The ECU is reporting a 00537 - Lambda regulation control limit not reached. Occassionally I have seen the value sit at 0.8 when idling, although the majority of the time it fluctuates as normal between 0.98-1.02. If at 0.8 then revved priefly it goes back to 0.98-1.02, sometimes staying there, sometimes dropping back to 0.8. Could this be because of the supply to the lambda / heater causing intermittent operation? I dunno... maybe the Lambda is really dead but why the intermittent fuel pump priming and ABS faults?

What is the voltage supposed to be be across the battery at idle? Mines a VR6 and the voltage is 13.4v with no accessories on, and can go as low as 12v with everything on (excluding the stereo). I'm having many problems and wondering whether they are all linked to an unstable supply. I thought the alternator should sustain 14v regardless of load from idle (600-700) upto max revs. This isn't the case, with everything on the volts can go as low as 12v at idle and when revved above 1k go back to 13.4v at best. Thanks.

It's looking more likely that the lambda is the fault, had the laptop on it at lunchtime time today and error "00537 - Lambda regulation - 11-10- Control limit not reached" reappeared. Also had the ECU error and G68 vehicle speed sensor faults but I'm putting this down to the engine stalling. Reset the codes and caught the 02 regulation value sitting at 0.8 continously. Went back to the fault codes and it had reappeared. Funny though because sometimes it will fluctuate between the normal 0.98 - 1.02 1/sec ish, blip the throttle then sit at 0.8 constant. At this point it sounded almost like it was misfiring, roughest it has sounded for a while. Blipped throttle later at it was back at 0.98-1.02 1/sec ish. Also got an ABS fault now "00280 - Differential lock vlave 2 (N126) 35-00--" which keeps the ABS light on so that needs sorting before the MOT next month. As per the locked parts of VAG-COM I'm not sure, I have a complete version which gives the data blocks and access to the 'fcuk with the settings' menu.

I had a similar intermittent problems on damp days with a 16v Golf where it would idle but didn't seem to have any guts. I eventually found it was the HT leads breaking down and arching against the inlet manifold branches. You could try running it at night and look for any arching, spray it with abit of water etc.

Had another look at the error codes yesterday after a drive upto London, the following came back: 00281 - Vehicle speed sensor (G68) - 27-00 implausable signal 65535 - Internal control module memory error - 00-00 - - 00537 - Lambda (oxygen sensor) regulation - 11-10- control limit not reached - intermittent Now am I right in thinking that G68 is the gearbox sensor? This wouldn't cause the rough idle / stalling would it? My speedo is out by about 10mph at 100mph, maybe an effect? I'm wondering whether I have bigger problems than just an odd sensor with this ECU error reappearing. I still have problems with the fuel pump prime seeming to get stuck in a loop, priming every 0.5sec when about to start (brr.. brr.. brr.. .. ..) instead of the normal single cycle (brrrrrrrrrr). When it does stop priming, if I turn the head lights on and off it will prime again?? Could there be a supply problem causing this? I cleared the codes and with the engine running I tried quickly turning the ignition off then back on. The engine stalled and the ECU error reappeared along with G28 crank sensor (normal). Maybe the power to the ECU is intermittently failing? As for the Lambda, maybe that is a genuine fault although the probe is not very old (GSF one admittedly about 2 years ago) so maybe something else is causing the mixture to be wrong hence bad lambda readings. The journey of about 130 miles round trip gave a MPG of about 30 which doesn't sound too bad to me. I dunno.....

Yer, that will be a tidy amount for all of that. I might just try the cam position sensor first and hope that may be influencing the burn / lambda readings. Thing is no more than 3 years ago I fitted a new crank position sensor at £140 (VAG) and the lambda at £50 ish (GSF). Surely they can't have gone already? The ECU error does sound abit worring, if that's not 100% then anything could happen I suppose. Will have to try looking at the error codes again and see what comes up. The car was running perfect for about a month after coming out of a VW garage last summer after finding an air leak (don't know where), then the matrix blew up. Since then its back to its usual rough state.

Before I ordered the new Lambda I thought I would check the VAG-COM once more just to make sure and this time the lambda appears to be working, changing from between 0.8-1.1 and back roughly every second. Now unless the readings are slightly out I assume I can now discount this, although last time I am sure it didn't change from 1. I checked the error codes and 4 were stored: 00281 - Vehicle speed sensor (G68) - 27-00 implausable signal 65535 - Internal control module memory error - 00-00 - - 00537 - Lambda (oxygen sensor) regulation - 11-10- control limit not reached - intermittent 00515 - Camshaft position (hall) sensor (G40) - 29-10- short to ground - intermittent I reset the codes, took the car for a ragging and left it to idle. Initially after conecting the laptop back up there were no errors, but after about 5 minutes the 00281 - Vehicle speed sensor error code reappeared. Other reading were as follows when at idle: Coolant temp 96.6 Intake temp 41.3 Battery 13.4 ISV 1.1 ISV duty 61% Throttle 12.9 deg Does any of this sound like it could be causing the intermittent idle and flatness upto 2k revs? What is the G68 sensor actually used for? The speedo works but the VAG-COM vechicle speed doesn't. Never seen the camshaft position (G40) error come up before, should I believe this? Also, any cheap working heater controls going? The direction dial just spins now, one to add to the list.

Thanks for the comms. Funnily enough I think the temp was 77.7 which I thought was abit low, usually about 95 but it matched the needle. Will check that when its cold later on to see whether it changes. Don't understand why the km/h does not register then, no related errors from the VAG-COM were displayed. I definitely didn't see the lambda change at all from 1.0. The message was along the lines of lambda inplausable signal or out of range. Took the car out for a 2hr drive and no errors came back, but didn't stall either. Lambda and connector wiring have both been renewed within the last 2 years. MPG on a sensible motorway drive can hit 34mpg. It is absolutely flat from idle to about 1500rpm though, accelerating in gear between this range results in a crawl then take-off. This morning it was well rough, hunting between 550-1000 ish revs. Had to use the clutch to pull the engine revs up at near enough every junction.

The coolant temperature matched the needle which was today was around 80deg. Does the vehicle speed in km/h usually work? I don't think I am ever going to get this car to run right. :(