Leavon

VR6 | Ice Grey Violet | Derby Price: £1000 Description: 1994 Corrado VR6 Ice grey violet £1000 ono 123,798 miles Heated black leather KW variant 1 suspension lowered 40mm, only 7000 miles on it. RH ZW1 17X8 wheels Miltek exhaust ITG air filter and heatshield AMD remap Lupo wipers Sony CD player MB Quart component speakers, 6X9 in stealth shelf Sony Amp New headlight switch Momo millenium wheel and gearknob TT pedal covers I’ve owned the car for 11 years in which it was well looked after with plenty of history and money spent. 2 years ago I was made redundant and couldn’t afford to maintain the car, consequently it has developed some faults which are listed below and hence the low price. I’m moving soon and don’t have anywhere to store the car at my new place, I’d love the car to go to someone on the forum who’d look after it and restore it to it’s former glory. The car hasn’t been driven for 6 months since it developed a coolant loss problem, I think it’s a leak in the system rather than head gasket but I'm no mechanic. There is a short in the electrics which causes the battery to go flat over a period of a few days if the car isn’t driven. Rear brakes are binding after I foolishly left the handbrake on when it was parked up. The heater only works on 4 and could do with a new fan; the car used to have air con, when that fan died I bodged in a fan from a polo which works but has slipped slightly so it whirs when going round corners. It still has the condenser and dash switches if someone wanted to re-fit the air-con. Sunroof not functioning doesn't tilt or slide. The ZW1’s are in need of a refurb, kerbing, peeling lacquer and dings are all present. The front ns wheel has a ding in the rim causing the tyre to lose pressure over a few days. Problem with ABS, removed relay to bypass it. Bonnet release cable has snapped. Rust around Corrado badge and front OS indicator, peeling lacquer on the roof edge. Usual parking dents and bonnet stone chips. No MOT or tax so car can't be test driven on the road. Included in the sale: 288mm brake calipers and pads Laptop with Vagcom and vagcom cable New RH centrecaps n/s headlight lens Custom TT gearshift surround. Original gear knob

One for me please.

Ahh, doh! Ta v.much.

I've noticed that mails that I've sent aren't appearing in the sent mail folder and there's are a couple of mails in my inbox that won't change from a closed envelope to an open one after they've been read?

Yeah it does sound a little different but be good to know if it's that that's causing the battery drain. It's not actually one of the numbered fuses, it's a bit hidden away, above the row of fuses there's a bunch of relays and it's above those.

Ahh okay, that makes it a little trickier if I've got to replace the pump. Edit: just found this on the clubgti forum, Inside the pump there is a metal conact switch on a vacuum/pressure plunger, the plunger gets worn over time and starts to stick, it can be sorted out but it entails stripping the pump down and cleaning up the unit, its's a fiddly job to do but can be sorted out relatively easy. As I'm not using the C/L at the mo I might give this a go.

Thanks David, any idea how I might check that?

Okay I'm pretty sure the source of my problem was/is the central locking. I've just managed to leave the car undriven for 4 days with the C/L fuse pulled, normally leaving the car for that length of time would be a guaranteed flat battery, just turned it over and it started straight away full of beans. If I leave the fuse in, after a while the drivers door can't be opened with the key, it feels like the central locking is continually pulling the pin down so I have to get in through the passenger door. I'm guessing there's a fault with the C/L module so I'm gonna try and source a 2nd hand one and swap it out. Kev if you've been having similar C/L trouble then could be that this is the source of your probs too.

Life got in the way of my visit to the sparky on monday, so I've had to put it off till next week. Meanwhile I've been removing the C/L fuse when I park up and, I've had no probs since but it hasn't gone for more than a couple of days without a drive so that's not the confirmed problem. Those meters are handy things for sure.

I'm removing the C/L fuse when I park up at night, haven't got time to investigate further this weekend but it's booked in at a sparkys on monday so I'm hoping he'll shed some light on the matter, I'll update when I know more.

Awesome, thanks folks that sounds very doable. There's my afternoon sorted.

That'll do the trick. Just remember to set it to Amps when you're measuring.

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the ride height on KW V1's? I'm losing tyre walls on the rear at an alarming rate. The manual is pretty vague, somebody told me you might need spring compressors? I was hoping it was a turn a dial type deal...

I've got a Skytronic 600.527, it was only £15 but seems to work okay.

Thanks David I'll give that try.

Fuse pulling was the first thing I tried :( I just tried disconnecting the C/L at the pump end and still no joy. Alternator diode was something I had heard of, but I guess that'll be something for the sparky to investigate on monday. I'll be so glad when this gets sorted, it's a bit of nightmare not knowing if the car's gonna start.

Okay I disconnected the unit behind the rear seat panel on the drivers side and no change, is that the Electric window module or the central locking?

Cheers Kev, I'll give that a go.

There isn't an alarm, it was removed last year.

I didn't realise there were 2 other fuses for the C/L and electric windows above the main bank of fuses, going to go and check them now, the car has locked me in a couple of times so this could be the problem. Finger crossed....

Well it's funny you mention the central locking Kev as I just went to open the car with the key and the central locking wouldn't work, it was pushing back down as I tried to turn the key. I had to get in through the passenger door, put the key in the ignition and the C/L worked again. Maybe that's the cuprit? Anyone know how I can check it? I took the positive lead off the battery and measured the current between the lead and the battery terminal, get a reading of 60ma after turning the car off and then 345ma an hour later. Alarm system was deleted when it went on the fritz last year. And yeah I checked the boot light and glove box.

Okay I'm gonna answer my own question, I've just been out to check the car after it's been stood for an hour and I'm now getting a reading of 345ma draw on the battery. So something is turning itself on after the car has been stood for a while, any ideas what that might be?

Yeah I realise that the 60 ma draw is normal and isn't the problem. I was wondering if something could come on after the car was left for a while? Or could an earth fault drain a battery?

I don't think it is as the same thing happened with the battery I had before and that wasn't very old. I measured it across the battery while a mate pulled fuses, 30ma was the clock and 15 was the stereo and I reckon the rest must be the ECU?

I've got a parasitic drain that empties the battery over 2 or 3 days. I know it's not the battery as I replaced it a few weeks ago thinking that was the problem and I know that the alternator is charging it as I had to bump start it the other day and after 40 mins of driving it was topped up again. I've put a multimeter across the battery and it was showing a 60 ma draw which is nothing apparently and I've checked that none of the interior lights are staying on, boot, glove box etc. It's booked in with a sparky on monday but I wondered if anyone had any ideas for other things I might check? Cheers,