wcrado

well i had the filter changed today and it hasn't helped at all. as soon as it started i could hear the main pump buzzing like crazy, and hey presto two miles into the test drive it started kangarooing like mad. was lucky to get back to the garage at all so, tomorrow i'm going to go to the breakers and pick up another one and see if it helps. a mate of mine reckons though, that if the in-tank pump goes it can knacker the main pump through running it dry, hence it works harder and wears itself out. any substance in this? Also, could this problem also be the reason the car is not as pokey as it was? i would hope to kill two birds etc.

took the car to the garage today and the mechanic advised, first things first, change the fuel filter, as it was old and skanky. this will be done tomorrow, so if nothing changes we will have to go from there. of course there is also the strong possibilty it could be the in-tank pump gone

ok so now the car has officially broken down. drove it today, and again the fuel pump was buzzing like mad, but a mile down the road it started kangarooing. cleared itself a few times, but got progressively worse until i couldn't drive it. it never stalled, and still started ok, but had to leave it where it was as i couldn't even get the thing to pull away still loads of petrol left. is this definitely a knackered fuel pump? don't want to shell out for a new one til i know for sure

no oil in the dizzy, but now you mention it i haven't changed the fuel filter, and was actually just about to add that i drove it earlier and the fuel pump was buzzing like crazy. sounded like it does when you're very low on fuel, just making a very loud buzzing noise, but i've got about half a tank of petrol. Fuel pump knackered? therefore fuel pressure problem?

Was after a bit of advice on the best way to set up a 1.8 16v 'Rado The car was running like cack a few months ago, as the cam timing was out, but after fitting a KR exhaust cam to use as an inlet, with the chainwheel adjusted to correct the timing, it went like stink! (although the idle was rough as rats) I then left the car for a week to go away, and when i returned it had lost alot of the poke it had before i went. 2 days later the dizzy managed to chew itself up so i fitted a new dizzy, along with cap, rotor arm and leads, (didn't change the plugs) but this still only returned it to how it was when i returned from holiday. so, being convinced something mechanical had gone wrong, i whipped the rocker off and re-checked the timing, which turned out to be perfect, cams were still in time and the new cam chain i had fitted was still tight. so i'm kind of at a loss now to figure out why it suddenly went downhill, and was wondering whether a decent set-up would help, as this was never done after the cam was fitted. i know the ignition timing is far from perfect, and the fuelling hasn't been touched since i changed the cam ~(was running 2.0% co2 before) so apart from getting this done, what else is involved in setting up this engine to run at it's optimum? (i probably won't be able to do it myself, i don't have a diagnostic machine for the fuelling for a start, but most of the mechanics around here seem to know even less than i do most of the time, i always have to tell them how to adjust the fuelling!) don't want to travel to stealth, so can some one out there tell me if anything else is involved? the idle is still rough, and also, the car stinks of fumes at the moment! i have to drive with the windows up as it gives me a headache. its not petrol, more like exhaust fumes. this wasn't happening when the car was going really well. also, the car has covered 138k and is still running on the original injectors, would these be causing the car to run crap? someone help because it feels like it's getting worse. i know a tune-up would help, but would it return it to how it was? the car has also got a 4 branch and system and has had the warm-up-regulator mod

right so i have 4 options, wax them, lacquer them, polish them with belgom or wd40 them..... i have just been leaving the exposed metal to the elements yes, as i didn't know what to do! think i'll try the wire wool first then polish them with belgom(if i can find it) then use wax.......what kind of wax anyway? just household wax or can you get proper automotive wax? if that doesn't work i'll try the wd40, and finally if that doesn't work 'll get the lacquer out! got to keep them polished, they're only 15's so if i don't it spoils the whole look of the car. they're lagged at the moment though!

i'm currently running 15" deep dish rims, and i've polished up the 4" dish, which looked stunning. i went through all the grades of wet and dry upto 1500grade, then used autosol metal polish and finished them off by hand. they looked awesome!! for about 2 days. :mad: they got sh!t high in no time. thing is, i don't mind cleaning my wheels, i can do that every couple of days, but they don't just get dirty they lose their finish completely, so i have to repeat this process all over again! i can't do this every 2 days metal polish costs loads! am i missing something here? i suspect that once the rims are completely polished i may have to laquer them to keep the finish, but i'm not sure. can anyone help???? :scratch:

i don't think the 8v's have more torque as standard than a standard 16v corrado/golf, iirc there is not much in it, but i think the 16v comes out on top just. as far as losing a drag race, prob down to weight etc, (corrado's are heavier) golfs have a smaller flywheel hence less bhp lost at the wheels, wheel size would also be a factor and also running problems! if your 'rado has had half of the running troubles i've had out of my two then you'll be running loads less bhp than you should! i've had two 8v golfs, both earlier k-jets. the first one was standard bar a supersprint full system, and i think that would have been close to my current 'rado in a drag race. the second was loads slower and wouldn't have got near it. saying that though, i've never driven a digifant 8v. i was always under the impression these went better than the k-jet 8v's.

thats what i thought, but i have driven 8v's and they do seem a bit closer through the gears, but maybe this is down to the less-revvy engine? i thought it was probably bullsh1t, as i know alot of g60 owners whack valver gearboxes in, so if the 8v's were any better they'd put them in

some guy i know is considering buying a semi-sorted 16v mk2 Golf, and in a long list of mods it also has an 8v gearbox fitted what i want to know is, is this a worthwile modification? i've never even heard of it being done before, but matey reckons it gives better acceleration as the gear ratios are closer. i've driven 8v's before, i've owned a couple, and the gearing is definitely shorter than the long gearing of the 16v (3rd and 4th go on for ages!). it gets quite annoying sometimes as even when i red-line it in 3rd, the change up to 4th always comes in below the power band but is this something to consider? surely everyone would do it if it was?

Doesn't sound all that appealing now! :( it was seeing your car on the mk2 spoiler that made me think about it, i thought it looked pretty good on there! wasn't gonna steal your idea, but i noticed you removed it again fairly quickly so i thought why not? :) they're well cheap too. Think i will go for the 50mm for practicality, even if i can get away with a 90mm, i think i'll just get p*ssed off with it scraping! but i think i'll measure out 50mm on a 90mm from a breakers and chop it down with the jigsaw! dude that made me laugh! :D a james bond-style retractable front spoiler for high bumps/inconvenient roadkill!

I think so.... 15"rims on 195/50's against 17's on 205/40's/.... i guess the wheel would be one inch smaller from the centre to the ground, and the tyre would be 10mm bigger, so i guess not alot of difference! maybe 10mm or so? cheers for the advice.... was a bit put-off by the 50mm spoiler to begin with, seeing as they're hard to get hold of second-hand and brand new they're a bit costly But i saw Renshaw's 'rado in the history of his car section and thought it looked sweet with the mk2 spoiler on it's chin! plus its a bit smaller so was gonna experiment with that If not i reckon i mite get a 90mm spoiler from the breakers and whip the jigsaw out and trim it down a few mil! unless someone on here's got a 50mm available?? don't worry i won't colour code it, wanted to keep a fairly original look for the car, and i only think the colour coded spoilers suit when the whole front of the car has been smoothed and colour coded as well

my valver is currently only-35mm, on 15" rims, but i've got a set of -60mm springs ready to go on any day now. The question i have is, will i be able to fit a front spoiler at this height? i don't have a front spoiler on at the moment, but was looking to fit another one soon, and was actually considering a mk2 golf big-bumper spoiler after seeing a couple of c's with them and thinking they actually really suit the car. either that or the late Corrado smaller one i don't think i'll have a chance of fitting a big corrado one, but will i even get away with a smaller one? bear in mind there are alot of speedhumps where i live!

lookin good 8) hell of a knife-edge as well

going back to that first car i think 10k is well excessive..... i remember seeing an N-plate blackberry storm about 3/4 years ago at a performance garage near me, miles were under average and it was up for £8995 saw it about a year ago advertised somewhere else this time for £4995 that was mint, and miles were sensible i'd pay around 10k for 24v renshaws and A20 LEE's, but they've had so much money invested! brand new paint, not 10 year old paint, and if you wanted to build either car yourself it would cost way more than 10k! it's a nice original one, but i'd rather look at 100k on the clocks than 50k on the clocks if it meant saving 5 grand

i always thought 16" 6-spokes look good,(audi s4 rims for instance) or 5 spoke dished 17's (RH's) i'd love to get 16" schmidt TH's on mine, but they're over a grand! At the end of the day it's such a personal choice you can't really ask anyone. i've seen some catastrophic rims on cars that the owners think look awesome! that PVW VR6 in my opinion, looks pants with those audi monoblock alloys! hats off for doing something a bit different, but i don't like them. but thats just down to my taste! one thing i will say though is space them out! i reckon 'rado's look awesome when the rims are pushed out to the edge of the arches!

its got to be illegal hasn't it? it's falsifying the mileage, or giving it a 'haircut' as it's known in the trade! do it old-skool, put it up on bricks and put it in reverse and fire it up!

cheers mate, think i understood most of that!

flusted p.m sent. bobby- power at low revs is just what i'm after! the cam doesn't kick in until about 4.5 - 5k rpm. when it does though you can actually feel it open up and pull harder all of a sudden, kinda like power valves opening up on a bike, (or a weak shot of N20!!!) but until then it's just sluggish.

i did think about knife-edging the dividing walls, but couldn't be bothered in the end! i was just sticking to what i thought i could do. davidwort! i may not know how to flow a head but i can take a photo! the camera is crap, it has trouble focusing on anything thats relatively close. flusted--- any news on the exhaust cam chainwheel? cheers

ok so i've finished the head! here are some photo's, please speak up if something doesn't look right!

sweet cheers!

its already on a cam? cos i could send you my chopped down exhaust cam and you could send me the whole lot if thats easier than me farting around changing the chainwheels over etc. or just fit the chainwheel to mine and send it back! just dubious to change the chainwheel myself, reckon i'll end up being 12 degrees out! either way i'm interested, even if i have to buy the whole thing and sell mine on. pm me or something and we'll talk about it cheers

just a quick one...wanted to know how easy it was to remove/refit the valve guides, as i'm currently porting and polishing a 16v head and i can't get around the valve guides very well.

so even if i time it correctly, as in your photo, it will still be 6 degrees out? thats pretty rubbish. and the chainwheel you have will just press on easy and i'll be able to time it perfectly? cool. is it up for grabs? i'll defo have it