wcrado

ok sorry there h100vw, didn't mean it personally. but i have said over and over that this shouldn't cost me alot. i've picked up the carbs for next to nothing and have a specialist to help me with most of the work. plus if it all goes tits up i'll put the k-jet system back on and sell the carbs on. its not a big deal, i'm just having a bit of fun with it. RILEY nice idea about the 2.0 litre transplant, and i did look into it, as i've just had to put a replacement engine in anyway due to my old one packing up, but it just didn't seem worthwile in the end to go ahead with it. i found a 2.0 16v ABF lump at a local scrappy's, and they wanted £250 plus vat. seemed ok, but obviously i would have needed all the wiring and ECU etc and they wanted another £100 plus vat for that. was still going to go ahead with it, but the scrappy's insisted i had to take the engine out in their filthy scrapyard, they wouldn't move the car for me or anything, so i would have had to pull it out of a stack somehow and do it amongst a whole heap of scrap metal. when i found another 1.8 lump for £120, 90k miles, already out of the car, i went for that instead. if anyone is after an ABF lump i can tell you where it is, but i'm warning you the scrappies there are the most difficult w**kers you will ever come across. there's also a private 2.0 16v breaking near me as well, not sure of the engine code though

ok, guess i'll have to look into getting it done properly if my twin carbs idea doesn't come off. where's the best place to have it done? stealth? obviously just any rolling road tuner won't do, because they won't have the info about this.

ok i know you're all slating me cos i'm about to run carbs, here's your chance to try and save me.... i have heard in the past, and just now in my thread about carbs of this WUR mod on valvers, i get the general idea but how is it carried out? Diagrams, detailed descriptions, any guidance would help. chop chop i've got a drill in my hand and i'm rairing to go!

Nice! i'm gonna give it a go anyway, cos i've already got my hands on the carbs. the only reason i'm going through with this is because i picked up the carbs very cheap and i can do alot of the work myself. but if i think it's not worth it i'll revert back to my polished inlet and metering head! it's only a bit of fun, so i'll just see how it goes. FLUSTED have you carried out this WUR mod? would like a bit more info on this for future reference. i'm sure i could do it myself if someone can provide a diagram or a detailted description....

cheers!

I think you will when you hear it! They will sound lovely. A mate used to run a Mk2 Golf with a very lary 8v lump on twin 45s. It was really good fun, as I'm sure yours will be. The 200 bhp valvers were as you say 2.0, running Schrick 268/276 cams and other bits on K-jet. K-jet is a good system, and i'd stick with it personaly, but I can certainly see why you fancy the carbs. Keep us posted on your progress. Thanks for the support phil, i will keep my progress posted. Everyone seems to be sticking their opinion in, but not one of them so far seems to have any experience with twin carbs! watch this space

pardon? how do you expect to extract 155bhp out of a standard 1.8 16v? i've had my car rolling road tuned, all they can do is swing the distributor to advance the timing and richen/lean the mixture. where you think they will get almost another 20bhp is anyones guess. When i said it's expensive to tune k-jet, i didn't mean rolling road tune it, i meant modify it. yes it's more expensive to adjust carbs other than k-jet, but k-jet isn't a performance part that is going to give me any extra power, it's just a standard fuelling system which has the potential to sucessfully run upto 200bhp provided i have thousands of pounds to spend on engine mods. which i don't. Twin 40's will give me more power and thats a fact. i've tried tuning k-jet, i've had a ported/polished head fitted, flowed manifolds, 4-branch and system, fitted new injectors, rolling road tuned and all i've got is a lot of noise and a hell of a lot of revving without actually gaining any noticible power. i had to get up to 5000 rpm before it even moved. it sucked, and so did my fuel consumption. if you honestly think i won't gain any power from deleting k-jet and adding twin 40's then you're wrong. if you think i'll be sucking in alot of hot air and using more fuel then how are throttle bodies any different? it's basically the same idea, 1 butterfly per cylinder, but using a stand alone fuel management system. i've spoken to specialists about this, and i've been told if i drive it sensibly, it'll probably be more economical than k-jet. but that isn't gonna happen! I'm getting annoyed with everyone telling me to stick with k-jet cos it's good for big power, sure, if i've got plenty of money to spend on other mods. everyone keeps dissmissing the carbs and then bigging up throttle bodies! it's almost the same principle, except more expensive! they both put more air into the engine and the fuelling is adjusted to match, either digitally mapped on ITB's or manually on carbs. if i won't gain anything from twin carbs then throttle bodies won't do anything either, and we all know they do. I'll get it dyno'ed when it's fitted. I'm a disgrace to the vw scene putting such primitive parts on my rado. twin carbs belong to the Ford crew!

like it says in the description, my electric windows, both sides, have decided to only work when the drivers door is open. whats going on and how do i fix this?

Sensible mode? who cares about that! i don't think anybody who wants to wring every avaliable bhp from their engine cares about how sensible the idea is! i'm keeping the standard k-jet system, so no need for all you die-hards to wet your pants, if it doesn't work out i'll sell them on and no damage. i'll do most of the work myself(along with help from a specialist mate) so it won't cost alot to fit, and the carbs cost very little as well. I can see what you're saying, 200bhp is attainable from k-jet, but think of the money it would cost me to get there- you'd be talking at least £500 for a polished and ported head, prob around £450 for aftermarket cams, a 2.0 bottom end conversion would prob be around £400, already got the stainless 4 branch and system but with all that, i still think you'd only be looking around 180bhp and thats about as far as you can go with it. they say you can get 200bhp, but i think it's close to impossible. most people who want that kind of power go for bodies. yeah ok carbs are less technologically advanced, but k-jet is hardly trail-blazing technology is it? i wasn't sure whether to go for it i admit, but it's gonna give me a good power gain for a reasonable amount of cash. like i said if it stinks, then i'll convert back, but i've seen some big improvements from running carbs so i decided to go for it. I'd love ITB'S, but i haven't got that much cash to spend! as for the fuel consumption, i think it's pretty much a given that almost any mod you make will decrease economy. more power=more fuel and thats the way it is. if i cared about that i'd drive a diesel! we'll see how it goes anyway. and i couldn't give a toss about the sound!

Just bought some twin DCOE 40's, need some info for the best place to pick up a manifold to fit my 1.8 16v. Can anyone help?

I've got the part number somewhere, i'll get back to you. in the meantime if anyone else can give me a definitive answer it'd be great

cheers. just thought that if they are anything to do with the spray patten then surely they won't be needed on the merc injs, as they are supposed to have a better spray pattern. if i fitted them then they would have the same spray pattern as the standard ones. the ends of the merc injs are cone-shaped, whereas i don't think the 16v ones are. anyone else know for sure?

Yeah i'm interested. Mite have seen me bombing around St. Austell in a Met blue 1.8 16v on a H-plate. Got a mate with a red G60 as well, number plate G60 AW, i'm sure he'd be up for it as well.

I recently bought merc e190 injectors on the advise of this forum, i needed new ones and the merc ones are cheaper, better spray pattern etc. what i was wondering was, on the standard KR bosch injectors you have a little metal cap on the bottom with just a little hole for the fuel to jet out of. What is this for, and do i need to swap them over on to the merc injectors? obviously the merc ones didn't come with them, but that doesn't really make me certain about whether or not i need them. also, if i do need them, can i just swap them around from my standard injectors, or do i have to buy them new? No advice from any guessers please!!

No it wasn't that ugly red thing you uploaded! my god that is horrific. no it was a drawing, obviously a very professional one, and it looked half decent. it actually looked like a corrado, whereas that red thing you popped up on screen looks like a fish

Anyone out there see that guys drawing of a new corrado in PVW? In the vitual rides bit? What do you think? I think the grille looks a bit dodgy, and maybe the wheels could be a bit better suited. i think they look good, but just a bit big and terminator style for me. All in all though i thought it looked awesome. okay, i know he's just taken a current corrado and cross-bred it with an audi TT but i think the results are stunning. Don't want VW to make a new corrado though, cos i can't afford to buy one and it'll make mine look outdated!

Mk2's re weird. they don't seem to conform to a set price range. Look in your local autotrader and you'll see big bumper ones in the bargain cars section for £800-odd. Look in the sports section and you'll see very similar ones for anywhere up to £2000. I saw a H-plater and a J-plater in the same autotrader not too long ago, both had done around 100k, both good condition, both black. The H-plater was up for £895 and the J-plater was up for £2500. I shit you not.

cheers. swapping my blown-up rado KR engine for one from a Golf so wanted to know what differences there would be. Bit concerned about this flywheel situation though, as obviously now i'm going to have a lighter flywheel so i'm guessing i'm gonna lose a bit of power up hills and stuff??

I've noticed several times in different places that often 2 types of KR Engine are listed, 1 with 132bhp and 1 with 137. Most notibly today when looking through an NGK spark plug application book.In fact in this instance they were listed as 133bhp and 139bhp. Whats the difference? i know one is fitted with a cat maybe, and the 50mm inlet manifold, but apart from that is there anything else?

Engine on my corrado died last night! currently a 1.8 16v KR engine, so would like to take this oppurtunity to upgrade to 2.0 16v power. Will consider anything though. Obviously i'm aware i'll need to rewire all the ignition etc to run a 2.0, so if anyone out there has a 1.8 16v engine which is good enough to tempt me away from the idea of a 2.0 then please get in contact! it will be less work, granted, but i was going to try and make the best of a bad situation by upgrading. Ideal situation would be someone out there flogging their TSR 1900 16V engine!

ok cheers. i prob won't go about checking it myself thou. got it booked in to have it looked at next week and i'll mention the woodruff key possibly shearing. hopefully it'll be that! i just want to know whats causing this. you'd think i would have gained something from these mods, but i've just lost torque! it's a bit more reluctant to start if it's been left more than a few minutes as well, and it's just so gutless. i have to rev the crap out of it just to actually accelerate! got to wrap up the 4 branch in heat wrap as well, cos it's running so hot since that went on

i'm pretty sure i've got no air leaks anywhere, the idle is stable, and all the gaskets have been replaced recently. plugs and leads are in good condition, brand new dizzy cap but waiting on the rotor arm. getting the injector spray pattern tested a.s.a.p and also a fuel pressure test. compression is reading fine. the thing is, the engine just sounds horrible. it sounds like it's mis-firing, it just sounds really airy and feels really gutless. after porting the head and fitting the exhaust system and 4 branch all i can honestly say has happened is i've lost low range power. i could feel some torque before, but now there's none! top end doesn't feel much different though. although it doesn't feel like it's lost that much power, it just felt and sounded right before, like it was doing what it should. it just doesn't seem right at all now, and anyone could tell this just by listening to it or driving it. Alan jeffery, the rolling road tuner i took it to seemed conviced the timing was out, cos thats what it sounds like. but he checked it with the rocker cover off and it proved to be ok, so i'm just wondering if what flusted said earlier in this thread, that he had the same gutless low power problem, and that it turned out to be the woodruff key sheared off in the top cam wheel, could be an option for me to check out. we weren't exactly delicate with the head when we were grinding out the ports. any ideas on how to get this checked out and whether it's worthwhile? i did richen the mixture on the metering head a bit last nite but it's done nothing.

can you explain this a bit better? i had a good look around the warm up regulator but couldn't find any screw. maybe a diagram like the one above would help me!!! does any body who's reading this know if it could be down to the distributor? like i said, it's running an audi 80 16v dizzy as it was the best we could get hold of. could this be responsible, or can i eliminate this?

i hope you genuinely want to know the answer to this, rather than just pick holes in my plea for help! i need as much useful information as i can get my hands on! basically the idle screw was wound all the way in, the metering head screw was wound all the way in, but i was still getting below 1.0% co2 and the idle wouldn't drop below 1000rpm, unless i leaned the mixture more, but at less than 1.0% co2 i didn't want to do this. in other words, the injectors were fucked. clogged right up and not delivering nearly enough fuel. so i took the advice of this forum before buying new injectors and bought the merc ones, which are brass, so they don't corrode, nearly £10 cheaper per injector, and according to the club gti forum give a slight increase in performance

well it's definitely not the cam timing, cos i had that checked with the rocker cover off and was told it's lining up perfectly. no idea if the woodruff key has sheared in the cam pulley, how would i check that?? the cambelt cover is off at the mo, so what do i look for? how exactly does this cause a drop in performance anyway? it does feel very gutless, and it just sounds horrible, like its struggling, almost like it's firing on 3 cylinders. as for the base CO level, i know for a fact it's set on 1.0%as i had the fuelling adjusted straight away. i will up it to 2.0% on this advice, but surely this can't be the whole cause of the problem?? there is one thing i haven't mentioned... during the modifications we did actually cause damage to the distributor, and the best we could lay our hands on was an audi 80 16v dizzy, so thats whats on the car now. according to the engine tuner though, it worked fine with the car and this wasn't the problem. i can't think of anything else! i fitted merc e190 injectors on the advice of this forum, as my old injectors weren't up to scratch, could this be causing it? they fitted in fine, but the old ones had little metal caps on the end, and we did leave those off.