wcrado

i bought the car with the mod already done, and the guy said he never modified the chainwheel, he just counted back the correct number of teeth, and then marked a new timing mark. but the question is, did he count back the correct number of teeth at all? it could be that both the cams are out of time with the bottom end, but i have check that the cams are in time with each other before i check that. so if you can help me out and tell me how many teeth back from the original mark it should be then i can eliminate this. would the exhaust cam mod sit at the same timing point as the original kr inlet cam? cos if it would(and i guess it should) i can grab a spare kr cam i've got, and then turn the engine over til the two timing marks match up(the actual exhaust cam one, and the new timing mark old boy marked himself) and hold the kr cam up to the engine in-line with the actual exhaust cam timing mark, and see if it is a the same angle as the new exhaust inlet cam. would this work, or does the exhaust cam mod have to be timed slightly differently to the orginal kr cam? either way if you know how many teeth back it should be from the original timing mark this would help me out. never know, it could be the dreaded keyway sheared again! my old rado, which was standard bar a 4-branch and system, had way more pull at low revs than this one, although this one revs its tits off! but like i said, up to 5k revs, it feels like i'm running about 85-90bhp. once it gets to 5k it pulls all the way to the redline. btw a 2.0 16v corrado has just cleared at combellacks vehicle recyclers in cornwall if your still after a 2.0 bottom end! they'll take it out of the car and i'm pretty sure they deliver as well

i did want to bring this up with you actually, cos it's been getting on my nerves and i know you know this mod inside out. from 5k onwards it does shift, but there is just nothing until then. it is very slow to pick up under 2k, i mean dangerously slow, then from 2k to 5k it feels flat, got to really red-line it to get anywhere. i'm not convinced the cams are in time actually, but i'll wait til i put the new head on until i check it, i'm not driving it at the moment anyway. but the cams could be out of time with each other, or slightly out with the bottom end. i know how to check that, but i've no idea where the two exhaust cams should line up, because obviously you can't use the original timing marks. with this mod, how many teeth do you have to count back from the original timing mark to get the cams to line up right?

i'm currently using the kr exhaust cam mod, so where would this fit in? i was planning to open the inlets up to gasket size and then matching the inlet manifold, as it's only about 2mm(roughly) larger, so i would not have to remove to much material. would this be advisable, or would you personally leave the inlets as they are? i'm also possibly gonna want to change back to the standard kr inlet cam in the future, as at the moment the exhaust cam is just too aggressive. it doesn't pick up til almost 5k revs! will wait to see what affect the head has first though

my old 'rado had 17" voodoo's on when i bought it and i never got around to changing them. although once it was lowered it looked the nuts, it never felt right. eventually got a full bilstein kit on there, and although it was better, it still felt heavy and not as sharp as it should. i drove my mates g60, which has 16" ATS rims and only a -25mm spring kit, and that rode so much better. my new rado is sporting deep-dish 15's. i would prefer 16's, as i think these look the best, but the 15's came along cheap so i've spaced them right out and dropped it to the floor. plus it drives miles better than my old one on 17's ever did. personally i think 16's are the way to go. 17's look a bit big(unless they're dished) and drive the car pants, and i think 15's look too small.

no haven't got to that yet! have just finished the exhaust ports, smoothed them out and polished them up. was going to start the combustion chamber next. the plan was that i was gonna open the combustion area up just a few mil to help the valves breath better. wasn't gonna gasket match it, i thought that would be too extreme! but the valves are very close to the side walls, so i was gonna machine them back a bit....unless this is a bad idea??? still after advice on which way to go with the inlets.... like i said, i let my mate touch my last rado with the dremel and he opened up the inlets to gasket and port matched the manifold, but afterwards the car would never start on the button like before, it ran like a spluttery bag of poo and only made 130bhp!!!! is it common practice to open up the inlets to gasket on a valver? cos my plan at the moment is to grind them out to match the gasket, and then gradually feather them in to about 1.5 inches inside the port. obviously do the inlet manifold to match as well. the short side radius has already been smoothed nicely, so don't wanna ruin the work thats already been done. just a bit scared, don't wanna screw up another head....! anyway, heres the exhaust ports....

sorry i'm in cornwall.... so unless someone grinds down valve seats with a combine harvester i'm outta luck! if you know anyone down this way who's cabable of grinding down the valve seats to 3-angles i'd definitely look to getting this done so do you recommend de-shrouding the valves then? also, in the combustion chamber there are alot of sudden angles on the transition to the deck/ quench area should i try and smooth these out so they curve better or leave well alone? i know i can't help airflow here as it's in the combustion chamber, but in the picures i've looked at on the net of before and after jobs on combustion chambers, some have had these smoothed out and some have not

i don't think i'll touch that..... i can't believe i'd find anyone down here who could carry this out anyway. i'll be happy if i can gain anything considering it'll be done by myself was reading about exhaust valve shrouding in the standard abrasives diy guide and it suggests slightly cutting back the combustion chamber wall if the valve is too close, it suggests there should be 3/16' of an inch clearance ideally. the exhaust valves on the valver head has a clearance of half a mil if that! is this something i should look at or leave well alone?

HEY! thought it was you. DID have a stunning aqua blue 16v, but had a pretty severe crash with a blind old man in a jag and it got written off..... :( it's up combellacks now down in the bottom yard with virtually nothing left on it. does have my milltek 4-branch still connected to the engine though, all ready and wrapped in heatwrap. i don't need it as i got one on my current 'rado but it'd be a nice upgrade for you if you're after more power! so after my insurance payout i bought a rough-as G-plate 16v off a guy on here. put it straight down my mates garage in st blazey for a full respray and i've just got it back! he's done a well good job. It's not road legal yet though, couple more bits to do for the m.o.t then i'll be set. mate you should pop up my place sometime, i got a spare set of cams out of my old engine, and apparently the inlet cam from a 1.8 16v has 0.7mm more lift than the one from a 2.0 16v, hence more horsies! it's just chillin in the garage you're welcome to it think it's quite simple to fit too.....

£350???? for a basic service? i'd tell them to poke it for that price!

i can't seem to find anything on the 'net about 3-way valves so think i'll leave it for now and just concentate on basic porting etc. mite look into it at a later stage for one of my spare heads. just stripped the current head that was a diy port polish job by someone else. looks like he's done a good job, fairly smooth transition down to the valve seat and i can see where he's taken material away, although i would like to go over it with wet&dry and just smooth it out a bit more, especially on the exhaust side. exhaust ports have been port-matched but not 'feathered' in, so i'd like to get that done too. according to the standard abrasives diy guide it's not recommended to open out the exhaust ports, but as this is already done oi think i'll just try and smooth it in a bit better still in two minds over whether or not to open the inlet ports up to gasket size....... everything i've read suggests that this is a crucial part of the process, though i'm just scared it's gonna run like my old one if i do

this is definitely something i'm gonna try and carry out then.... do you have to buy the 3-way valves then or can you machine down the standard ones? i got a couple of spare heads i can test this out on first, so i think is got to be worth a go.

bumpzilla

for sure.... i've also been keeping a keen eye on ebay and have noticed a company on there that polish/port &rebuild cylinder heads, have noticed a couple of KR heads on there, at a starting price of £299. they seem confident that their heads are good, but haven't had the money to try them! plus i'd rather give my own a good go first. thanks for the help phil, i've got a pretty good idea which way to go with it now 1 thing thou, i keep hearing the phrase '3 way angle cuts on the seats' and that i should do this....any idea what this means?

just in the process of getting my new corrado roadworthy, noticed there is alot of play in the gearbox my old rado seemed fairly tight, whether in gear or not, and had covered more miles but this one seems to have alot of play in neutral, and when in gear i can literally disengage the gear, even if really steaming it, using absolutely no effort at all, just my little finger! drives the car fine though, so wondered (hoping) if i could get this sorted through adjusting something and not buying a re-con unit?

sounds like a plan! i gotta try and sly a couple of kinky photo's though. think i've got a couple of suggestive ones but i gotta try and get some flesh :norty: not too much though, otherwise we'll get it in the neck from the :hitler:

oh come on! you guys need to be a bit more comfortable with your sexuality. think there maybe a few people in denial on these pages! maybe a photo of my girlfriend in the bath would be better?(she's not fat or anything) :norty: consider it deleted.......

definitely. it all adds up. and when you do it yourself for free it's all the better! i just really don't wanna mess it up. my last 'rado ran like an airy bag of poo, (until i had to replace the engine) and only put out 130bhp. always thought the dodgy diy head job had messed the flow up. so i take it you just gasket matched the inlet ports, then matched the inlet manifold to gasket as well? and i guess the same with exhaust?

me in the bath dude! drinkin champagne in a v posh hotel in rome! i'll try and change it to a photo of my car when it's finished!

hey,silverado2l16, is that chris harris?

phil, did you open up the inlet/exhaust ports at all?? what sort of work did you carry out and how much difference did it make?

cheers flusted. some good stuff on there. i noticed a while back you did your own head, how did that come out? did you enlarge/gasket match the inlet/exhaust ports at all? i'm a bit dubious to do this though. a while back i left my old corrado in the allegedly capable hands of a mate. while he was carrying out other work he insisted he knew how to port/polish a head, and all he basically did was open up the inlet and exhaust ports to gasket size. i had a 4-branch, so they matched, and the inlet manifold was also grinded out to gasket size to match the head. thing is, it ran like a bag of sh:)t afterwards! we did blend in the inlet porting using wet and dry, so there were no horrible steps, but that has left me very hesitant to open up the ports at all. by the way, did you ever get round to fitting the old porsche TB?

yeah it does! cheers. when your talking about porting the inlet/ exhaust ports,i'm a bit at a miss to understand what the short turn radius means, could you explain this in i've-never-done-this-before-and-i'm-from-cornwall terms please :iamwithstupid:

gonna have a go at porting and polishing my 16v head. Have a ready done one to go on, so was gonna port/polish the old one myself. The one thats going on is another DIY job done by someone else, so no idea how effective it will be. dodgy thing is, the exhaust ports have been opened up about 2 or 3mm(i think port-matched) all the way around, and to about 5mm inside and then not at all blended in or smoothed. :roll: was wondering if this head would be ok, if it needs more work or if it needs to be binned.i did hear that opening up the exhaust ports was a bad idea. the inlet ports have not been opened up at all. i discussed the work the guy did, and i think he just smoothed out the valve seats and smoothed the air passage around the bends down to the valve openings. :D Either way i'm gonna have a go at my current head, so if anyone has carried this out themselves and seen good gains, then can you give me some step by step advice please? have a semi-rough idea what to do as far as smoothing the air passage around the bends and valve seats, but not sure how far to go with the port matching on the inlet side etc or whether to even touch the exhaust ports cheers

well he's taken the valves out and flowed the air passage on both sides, but only by the bends down to the valves etc. at the actual inlet opening he hasn't touched it, and at the exhaust side he's just done what i said, grinded out the opening to about 5mm in and not blended it in. i would say it's opened out the exhaust ports about 4-6mm

Not sure what type of head it is, but i think the exhaust ports are opened out to the same size diameter as the 4-branch ports. would this be ok, or too much? if itsok it will definitely need more work, as that flow channel-thingy in the exhaust ports have been ground out to just a round circle with no sort of blending in. get what i mean? like he's just gone around the first five mil of the exhaust ports with a grinding stone and thats it. i'll try and post photo's if i can. any info will be great! FYI he hasn't opened out the inlet ports at all.