MillSpeed

Cheers mate, didn't even realise that knowledge base thing was there!

How's it goin fella? Good find, muchos gracias. Yeah, still got the digi 1 but will probably get an SNS chip made minus the rev limiter. Just thinking aloud at the mo, will probably just end up trying to sell the engine again!

I'm trying to decide what to do with the G60 turbo lump I've had lying around for ages. I was going to sell it but it looks like that's fallen through so I was thinking about getting myself a Mk2 Golf C and building up a little sleeper. I've got a G60 02a box that's had the front mounting lug snapped off it. Since I originally planned to mount it in a Mk1 this wasn't a problem (I've also monkeyed around with the diff casing aswell trying to fit a mk1 rear mount), but obviously when mounted into a mk2/Corrado that lug is used. Anyways, to cut a long story short, I was wondering if a valver box was geared any differently to the G60 box? Since the bottom end of my G60 is fully race balanced with a lightened flywheel it'll more than likely rev like a 16v especially without the G(renade)-Lader to worry about. Or is the G60 box stronger and should I stick with it? Cheers, Chris

Your ISV sounds like it's ok. When you un-plug the ISV with the engine running it shuts off the ISV control unit, so plugging it back in without shutting the engine off first won't make any difference. Try unplugging it, then shutting the engine off, plug it back in and re-start the engine. It should fire up normally. I have the same problem with the rev counter, although mine jumps every now and again rather than 'shivering'. Have you noticed the rev counter shivering at higher RPM's?

Sorry for the hijack but.......I'm having all kinds of trouble with my ECU, how low does the voltage have to drop before it starts to get upset? I'm seeing as low as 13.8v.

Disconnecting the throttle switch has defo done something to the ECU. The only explanation I can think of is that perhaps it was tricking the ECU into thinking that the throttle was closed hence its reluctance to advance the ignition when the car was revved.

Certainly looks like that was the problem, put a spare throttle switch on and now she's running lovely. In addition, the tab on the throttle lever wasn't activating the switch half the time. Probably just needed adjusting but I bunged a replacement switch on there just in case. Whatever it was it was upsetting the ECU, perhaps putting it into limp mode or something (asuuming the KR ECU has a limp mode!). Strange, cos there was never a problem with the idle, usual symptom of a faulty closed throttle switch is a high idle.

Problem now sorted, ta.

Any way of testing the closed throttle switch?

Getting closer. Noticed that after starting the car up, if I let it idle for any length of time whilst driving (i.e whilst sat at traffic lights) then the problem would re-occur. If I just blipped the throttle whilst stationary I could stop it from happening. This lead me to think that maybe it was the closed throttle switch telling the ECU that the throttle was closed when it wasn't, thus the ECU wouldn't bother to advance the ignition. Just disconnected the closed throttle switch and she's running lovely (touch wood). Any of this makin sense?

Great stuff, I can rule that out for now then. Any other usual suspects? I'm pretty sure there can't be a vacuum leak between the manifold and the ECU since the car is idling quite happily. Think I might just try swapping the ECU.

Feel free to chime in folks. Thinking about it, if my hall sender was knackered then I wouldn't be getting an RPM reading at all would I? The wiring from the hall sender to the ECU looks ok, no visible cuts or breaks. So the ECU uses vacuum and engine speed to determine the amount of advance needed, could it be that the vacuum sensor in the ECU is faulty?

I would've thought the eaton M45 on the mini would be a bit on the small side for a valver. An eaton M62 would probably be a better bet.

WUR is actually seeing 13.8v when the engine's running. Just made a discovery! The car started acting up again earlier so I pulled over and tested the ignition timing with the strobe. 6deg BTDC at tickover, no problems there. However, when I revved the engine, the ECU was not advancing the timing. The vacuum line going to the ECU seems to be fine (well, it's not blocked anyway) so could it be the hall sender acting up? My rev counter has been known to jump from time to time (you'd also see the ignition timing jump with the strobe) but today on the motorway it was going nuts, jumping all over the place! Can the hall sender be replaced or is it a case of bolting on another dissy?

Will do, cheers sciroccotune. Does the car have to be warm when checking the voltage on the WUR?

80k?! I've got double that on my motor and I'm pretty sure there the originals! What sort of $$ are we talking about for new injectors? I ran a bottle of wynn's injector cleaner through them to no avail but for £4 it might be worth doing it again. HT leads are fine as far as I can tell, she doesn't seem to be misfiring at all. I deffo need to get my CO set on an analyser. Now that you mention it, I did have trouble with the metering head when I first got the car....she kept flooding and wouldn't start. Turned out the fuel distribtor shaft was stuck.

Hmmm.....very little play in the dissy shaft, although there is some rotation in the cap with the spring clips off. Can't see how it'd move on the go though. Am I right in saying that the KR ECU can alter ignition timing dependant on the amount of vaccum it sees? Still feels like the ignition is intermittently retarding, will have to carry the strobe with me and check the timing as soon as it starts acting up! Also, is it common for injectors to block? She's running pig rich at the moment so I was thinking if there's big gobs of fuel getting dumped into the engine from a partially blocked injector then it's not going to combust properly.

Had a good rummage through the 'car is hesitant' thread, some good info in there. Haven't got a cat, lambda probe or knock sensors so that's three less things to worry about!! Defo gonna check the dissy mechanism, cheers for that Ian. I'll report back tomorrow with my findings, ain't gonna let this mofo beat me!

Anyone?.........Anyone?.........Bueller..........Bueller

I'm running out of ideas on this one. It almost feels like the ECU is retarding the ignition, the exhaust note changes and she pops and back-fires on the overrun. I'll be driving along quite happily and then all of a sudden the car just bogs down and feels 'flat' for want of a better description. Sometimes when accelerating, all of a sudden it'll just clear and she's pulling like a train again. Really weird. I was thinking maybe the injectors were getting blocked and preventing the fuel from atomizing properly, but I've used injector cleaner and changed the fuel filter and it's made no difference. Any ideas folks?

Just vent the bugger to atmosphere! A catch tank just collects the oil vapour and moisture that gets chucked out of the breather and stops it from goin into the engine.

I recon there must've been something wrong with my mate's car, it's a shame he hasn't got it any more...we could have had a little head to head. I'm going to be pulling the valver out of mine soon anyway, as soon as I can find myself another hack to replace the 'rado.

Cor, according to that website the 1.8 16v is quicker to 60 than the G60. I can believe it too, I had a drive of my mate's G60 and it was a big slug, I was quite disappointed.

I used hammerite aswell, no problems brush painting onto cast, comes up lovely. Those aerosol paints are far too thin for my liking.

Ha ha, no offence taken mate! Just had a thought, might be worth changing your timing belt if it hasn't been done since I rebuilt it.