MillSpeed

I've done it. Took ages with a dremel multi but it worked well. I did the three-fin mod and ported the outlet to match the RSR outlet I got from bahn brenner. Ported and polished the top airway too. Charger's still going strong in corradowales' car after 3 years.

Will be running a cossie T3 eventually with 42lb injectors, wondering if that'll have any bearing on which pump I should use. Doesn't the KR pump operate at a higher pressure?

Alright chaps? I'm getting ready to transplant my freshly re-built G60 motor into my KR 16v rado. Trying to decide whether to retain the external fuel pump or switch to the G60's in-tank pump. Also, will the G60's engine loom and ECU loom plug straight into the 16v fuse block?

Cheers fella!

What's the deal with these DX crank bolts then?

The remains of the red/black wire in the photo look pretty fat, were they supposed to be connected to the coil?

Yeah, just one wire in, one wire out (which then connects to the -ve terminal on the coil). It's as if the connector doesn't really need to be there. God knows what's been done to this wiring, I suppose I should just be grateful it's running!

Yep, a white plastic connector just up from the coil terminal.

Yep, it's a 1.8 16v. No fat red/black wire, but there is a skinny red/black one going to the -ve terminal on the coil.

Just thought I'd check with you guys to see if there's been something cut out of my loom. The wires in question are right infront of the heater in-take. If you can see from the pic, it looks like there was a red & black wire connecting the green & black wire on the left to the white & black wire on the right, but it's now been cut out. Is this red & black wire supposed to be there or is it something that's been added?

I recently put the G60 280mm set up on my 1.8 16V. Car stops much better now. The G60 calipers were wider than the 16v ones.

I measured a steady 14v across the alternator, suggesting that there may be an issue with the starter motor terminal. Will investigate this weekend. Checked the glovebox light, looks ok. Don't think it's the battery at fault, I'm switching between two batteries at the moment, unless they're both knackered!

Ha ha, how's it goin fella? May well take you up on that. Gonna try cleaning the starter motor terminal. Found more evidence of wiring butchery, the buggers have been cutting wires to the ECU.

The battery was flat again this morning, that's 4 days. I've been swapping between two batteries, and charging up the flat one ready for the next swap. The voltage across the terminals was 13.74v with the enigine running.

Thanks for the tip RW1. Just tested it now with the volt meter and I'm getting 0.04v, that doesn't sound right does it? The engine has to be running yes? Might just run an earth wire direct to the -ve battery terminal like you suggested.

A ha, that's the fella! Don't think I used a long enough allen key last night. The 3mm one wouldn't fit in the hole, there was some sort of red insert in the way. Was wondering if it's the remains of a cap that someone's butchered?

How do you go about adjusting the CO?

It'll be in your down-pipe somewhere. Is your car a 1.8? My car hasn't got a lambda probe, and I'm having similar symptoms to you i.e. running as rich as a mofo, lots of popping on the overrun, occasionally feels flat.

Cheers for the advice David. Alternator feels pretty cool, maybe a bit of residual heat from the drive to work this morning but nothing to suggest something's amiss. Will have to get busy with the multi-meter this weekend.

Cheers fella! Is that the vac pipe that goes to the back of the instrument cluster? I'll go have a look at it if it ever stops raining!

Apparently I'm getting 99.9 mpg. Hmmm, methinks the MFA might be a little off there.

The bugger was staying on so I just took the bulb out and left it hanging. I then thought, maybe it'll go out with the main interior light (you know they got that delay on em after you shut the door). But now I've lost the bulb for the boot light so I couldn't test it.

Howdy folks. My KR 16V 'rado killed its second battery this morning. Luckily I had the one I took off before charged up and ready to go, so it wasn't too much of a problem. I was wondering if there are any common faults I should be looking for? The alternator appears to be charging ok (the charge light goes out and stays out, no flickering or anything). Nothing obvious is staying switched on that would drain the battery. The bastard always takes some cranking before she'll fire (which can't be helping matters) but every time she struggles on start-up I take her for a good run to try and put some charge back into the battery. I've got a spare alternator, might give that a try. Any other thoughts?

I can't remember if she was lowered when I saw her last, I don't think it was. Just spoke to my mate, he knows that Phil bloke, said he's a tw*t!

No idea about the lambda probe or the window ecu sorry. I haven't seen this car since 2002, it was lovely back then...not a mark on it. The water pump was noisey but that was about the only thing wrong with it.