Ess Three

Gotta agree.. I've tried 95, 97, Optimax and all make no difference on how the car feels. They all give the same power on my Golf too...no advantage at all on Optimax. Tried the Ultimate stuff...feels more lively for sure. I even went back to 95 and then optimax before re-filling with Ultimate...the car feels nicer to drive. It makes no more power though...I proved that at the RR day at Star.

My pleasure Joe... I guess it helps to dispel the rumours that all Mk3s are heavy, underpowered beasts that don't handle! Just to add: What a cracking day! I guess there will be a few who've gone home somewhat hacked off after being on the receiving end of a low power run... There will also be a few who can't stop smiling! Martins Polo, Gary's Golf hybrid...and the owner of the VR6 that made 210BHP!! (sorry, didn't get your name)...superb power...and sounded top notch too! And best wishes to Brian...let's hope it's not as bad as you first thought! Hopefully everyone had a safe journey home...with no mechanical 'issues' to contend with... Myself and Dave in his Passat had a good play heading north...managed to teach some muppet in a Punto a thing or two! Happy days...! A good end to a great day... Thanks to Roddy for kicking it off...and to everyone who made it...I think I can safely say it was the most relaxed and friendly RR day I've been to... When's the next? :lol: Oh, Struan....game on!! :wink:

I'm pleased I've given you a good laugh... But i'm somewhat confused by your comments: Risking what? I've been 'coming on here' as you put it for a long time...what, prey tell, am I risking? What do you mean by that? After all, I have a Corrado VR6 so I have just as much right to voice my opinions regarding them as the next man...and just as little to worry about getting caught about? Or, in your view, does this not apply to me? As for writing a huge post, all I try to do is give my reasoning in a complete, concise and honest way...does it bother you that I take the time to try and explain myself properly? Perhaps I should use street slang or text message abbreviations? Or would you still feel the need to attack my opinions? Sorry...I'n not following you...? Is this some attempt to have a go at my Scottish notionality? If so, I'm afraid it's missplaced. I'm English. I just happen to live here. That's a fair point... However, when we headed down south to get Roddy's VR6 re-mapped Optimax was very limited in the frozen north....hence the choice made. I wish I lived where new fuels were freely available...but I don't. I wouldn't say a gain of 13BHP ish was a gain which limited the car to mediocre...not the most possible possibly (maybe have gor another BHP or two), but the advice was sound...under the circumstances. I appreciate you have your opinion, and I have mine...and they differ. It's a shame that our difference in opinions seem to lead you into a personal attack on another forum menber, because my opinion doesn't match yours.

I have little experience of the G60...so i'll take your word for it. But on the VR6 - assuming you have the distributor model - you can't alter the timing by swinging the distributor as far as i'm aware...the various engine position sensors ensure that the timing remaing as set in the maps contained within the ECU. Unless someone knows of a cheeky little defeat for this?

Sorry, I don't drink coffee! :wink: Nothing to do with aggression...more to do with being on the forum whilst offshore at work, and not wanting to get caught...hence the speed typing and associated mising of the occasional letter. With regard to aggression, I have a pet hate about miss-information being spread via the internet...anyone can set themselves up as an expert and offer advice that people readily follw. This information can cost people serious money...and if they don't get the expected gains? The'll be hacked off, just like I woulsd be. all my poste contain my personal experience...nothing more. People can believe and accept it, or dissregars it. It's their choice. But it's measured form years worth of time and effort - not to mention money...hell, if people want to go wasting their money it has no bearing on me...but some people would rather not, and would rather use their available money to do something that actually makes a difference. I have no problem in accepting differing views and experiences to those I have found...as long as they have been accurately and scientifically carried out...and not just "I heard...therefore it's true" Each to their own. But in my opinion, getting a car mapped for 95 is ideal if thet's the lowest fuel you may have to use...if you can say absolutely that you'll never have to use anything less than 98, then get it mapped foer 98...but a car mapped for 95 will drive much better than a car mapped for 98, running on 95, and having it's timing hauled back by the ECU. As for people who normally run 95 and fill their car up with 98 and octane booster (yes, they exist!) just before a RR run, just to get high numbers are fooling themselves! OK, it may make your penis appear larger in the pub in front of your sad mates, but out on the road, using the fuel you normally use...faked big numbers just don't cut it. No he hasn't wasted his money at all. An ECU cannot add advance...only retard it...it cannot possibly add any more advance than is already there..so if a car is re-mapped to give it as much advance as it can use on 95 octane juice...it will always run that increase in advance...this in the case of the VR6 is MORE than the ECU comes standard with regardelss of the fuel you put in. If you use Optimax or similar you ensure that the timing never gets knocked back...OK...so it'll never get knocked back using 95 anyway, as long as it's decent quality 95 you are using...but you may see an increase in fuel economy with fuels such as Optimax. Don't forget, Optimax is not primarily a performace fuel...it's a clean burn fuel designed to be cleaner...the fact that it is higher octane is a by-product, not the aim. It it were the aim, we'd get the 100+ stuff available in some parts of Europe. Basically, you know that with a re-mapped for 95 ECU...you have that performance all the time regardless of fuel. With a 98 remapped ECU you may have better performance when using 98 fuel..but what if you absolutely cannot be assured of getting 98? You run it on 95...and lose loads of power as the ECU pulls back the timing as the timing was re-mapped to run the maximum possible on 98 octane....not ideal. The car we are referring to is not a race car...Roddy is a close friend of mine (so I definately don't want him to waste his money) and it's his road car...he doesn't do track days so he was interested in having a nicley enhanced road car for everyday road use...and living where we do, I believe the 95 re-mapped option to be ideal....same as it was for me. You, and others may not agree...that's your prerogative. ..and I don't set out to sound aggressive...all I attepmt to do is stimulate people thinking about a particular topic in order for them to make their own informed decision. At the end of the day, it would be boring if everyone had the same opinions.

My pleasure... Pleased you found it informative! 8)

Let me try and assist here: The Quaife ATB LSD is not a Limited slip Differential (LSD) in the previously accelted sense of the term. The Quaife is an Automitic Torque Biasing (ATB) diff...it works be using a series of worm gears and drive gears that allow the diff to mechanically send the torque to the slower of the two spinning axles, to reduce wheelspin and equal out the drive. It's also continaully working...continually altering the amount of drive that goes to each axle as the spinning forces of the diff load and unload from side to side...basically it uses gears to send the most drive possible to the axle that can most use it. It's difficult to explain without having a split diff in front of you....or a diagram...of which I have neither! A true LSD is a diff that progressively (or not so progressively!) locks at a pre determined amount of slip...thereby providing a 'locked' axle above this point. As an example...a 17.5% LSD will allow the outside wheel to turn 17.5% faster than the inside before locking the axle up...this is achieved be using a set of clutches and plates and a set of 'ramps' to set the lock...once set the diff is a purely passive device...it locks or it unlocks..simple as that. You plant the foot with a clutch and plate LSD and one wheel starts to spin...up to, say, 17.5% faster than the other wheel, then it locks...and you'd better be holding on tight as you are in for a fight! The clutch and plate diff also locks on braking...the setting (say 17.5%) works on power on and power off...which actually makes it MORE predicatble on a track than a Quaife ATB type. Clutch and plate LSDs can also be uprated...I ran a 17.5% LSD years ago in my Nova...ended up doing trackdays, sprints and hillclimbs and it was great with a 17.5% LSD made by ZF...but I got greedy and wanted more grip, more locking...so I uprated it to a 40% LSD. You needed arms likeArnie to hold it in a straight line (no power steering) and you could hardly park it! But the grip was sublime. you also need to service Clutch And Plate type diffs, as they wear (the clutches and plates wear) There is no servicing required for an ATB type. So back to LSD types... Basically there are 3 basic types: Automitic Torque Biasing type - Quaife, Standard Honda Integra Type-R, Focus RS, Peloquin etc Clutch And Plate type - Gemini, VW Motorsport (Gemini), ZF, Mugen, to name but a few. Ferguson Viscious Coupling type - as fitted to a Series 1 Ford RS Turbo...best forgotten as they were unpredictable and crap! Of them all...in my experience... The Ferguson type is the worst..unpredicatabe, unreliable and not particularly nice to drive with. Clutch And Plate is the best for a track...very snatchy, very aggressive, hard to park with, rough on tyres...but for ultimate grip for track use...a revelation! Why do you think people change from ATBs to Clutch And Plate types for track use (Racing Honda Integra Type-Rs for example) ATB is the best compromise...great grip, easy to live with, not noisy...OK it tugs a bit until you get used to it...but it's not too much of a hardship. anyone that complaines about a Quaife should try driving a tight Clutch And Plate LSD... So to counter Henny's comment: A Quaife is not a track developed diff - it's a road and track developed diff...with more road than track!....a lot more so for the road than the next alternative. Having used them all over the years..I can say with honesty that the Quaife is a fantastic product...well worth the money. But if I were building a track only car...it's be a proper Clutch And Plate type LSD I's fit.

The Focus's problems aren't all attributable to the Quaife diff. The tramlining and bump steer have nothing tio do with the diff, more the fact that it runs too little castor, too high spring / damper rates and has too wide wheels effects it's ability to ride like a conventional Focus over the rough stuff. A Quaife diff is not a handful on a properly set up car...the Focus seems to have too many perametrers optimised for smooth roads, and not enough concesions made to crappy back roads. I'll be that the Focus will still be faster point to point than 90% of cars on here...it's just it gets bad press from people who get into it expecting it to be as smooth as a standard model You put a Quaife into a VW with very stiff suspension and wide wheels and tyres and watch it tramilne too. ...and besides, drive a car with a clutch and plate type diff...then you'll know all about holding onto the steering wheel!

That intercooler looks a bit...excessive! Aren't you worried about increasing lag with a monster that size? So, what's the bottom line going to be Struan? How many ponies are you looking for after all the work's done?

.........not to mention the black leather interior too 8) 8) 8) .......makes it an excellent combo :wink: Same spec as mine was...nice!

Just to back up what Roddy said, the temperature gauge is a joke! The markings on the gauge have very little to do with the actual temperature...notice that VW dropped the graduated temp gauge after the Corrado...all current VAG gauges have 3 basic positions: Needle hard left = cold. Needle in the middle - anywhere from just off hard left to just before hard right = OK Needle hard right = hot! If you're fans are working, and the needle isn't hard right and the warning lights are not on...I'd assume all is well. Just to be sure, see if someone with a VAG Com will log it for you...or get VG to check it with thier diagnoisic gear.

Yeah, and the temperature sensors either work or they don't. Normal temperature sensors for automotive use are simple RTDs, and as long as they are used in their linear range they are accurate and fit and forget...they just don't go out of spec...you either read the correct resistance accross them for the applied temperature, or they fail (normally open circuit, giving a very high - but false - reading) If RTDs are perfectly acceptable for use in critical control applications in such industries as the North Sea Oil / Gas Industry, they are fine for use in a Corrado. With regard to calibration...it's simple physics.... Take a PT100 platinum based RTD...0 degrees = 100 ohms. 100 degrees = 135.8 ohms. And everything in between is linear...so if the ECU sends a 5v dc signal to the sensor, and the resistance is affected by the temperature in question, the resultant voltage measured on the return wire to the ECU is linear, and less than 5v - depending upon how much is dropped accross the resistance of the temperature sensor....you get the idea! The VAG Com doesn't need to do any calibration as the source voltage from the ECU does not change, and since all sensors (all sensors for that particular application...ie, that part number) are selected to ensure they are in their linear range, there is no calibration to be done. All the VAG com does is look at the range of the sensor - the span if you like...say 0 degrees to 150 degrees, look for the applied signal voltage and measure the voltage dropped...from there it's simple physics. Now, RTD type sensors do go wrong occasionally...but it's rare...normally if they work they are accurate...if they are not accurate it's corrosion on the connections that is the cmost ommon cause.

Straight swap...as roddy says. You'll find the front dampers a bit softer on the Corrado VR6 as it has the extra weight to make them a little less harsh...I have the Koni kit on my 16v Mk34 and although they are good, you can tell that they would probably be a little softer on a VR6 engined car. They'll be fine if they are anywhere between ET43 and 35. I used to run 7 1/2 x 17 ET35 on my last Golf....currently run 7" x 16 ET 43...both will fit a Corrado well, and due to the larger arches of the Corrado, should provide no rubbing issues.

Best advice I can give is: Set them to minimum as suggested and leave them there for 500 miles or so to let thwe seals bed in. In this period get your ride height sorted (best drive them for a week or so before paying to have the alignment done as they will settle a little!)...ensure your ride height is spot on and the alignment is to your settings. To set the front: Find a decent constant radius tight-ish corner - preferably with a few bumps / undulations. Pitch into the corner and see what the front end does...if it bounces up and down when the car is cranked over and the suspension loaded up, increase the damping until you control the bouncing...it should be smooth and controlled with very little bouncing, but not solid and harsh. Once the front is set, do the rear: Note how much you are up from minimum damping on the front and multiply it by 2...ad this to the rear. Find a nice open but fast corner / roundabout and pitch into it...see how the back feels...if it feels good, leave it. It it's understeering try increasing the rear from where you last set it. If it's oversteetring (unlikely) decrease it. This works well for standard anti-roll bars and uprated as the damping will most probably be different for both set-ups. I would guess you'll end up with around 1/4 turn up from minimum on the front, and around 1/2 on the rear. Don't be afraid to play about...just make a note of your last 'good' settings and revert to that in the event of making a pig's ear of things! If you drive on a lot of badly surfaced back roads or do a lot of driving in the rain, you ideally want it to be a soft as you can within these parameters...anyone who tells you you need all the damping cranked up has never driven a properly handling car! It's just not the case! Hope this helps...

Hmm...both FWD then? On a dry test track on a hot, dry day, a Cupra R is very much equel to the S3...but this is the UK where it rains, roads are crap and we don't live on test tracks with their grippy tarmac...on the road in all conditions it's far easier to extract the performance out of the 4WD car...and once you've got a few car lengths of a lead, it never dissapeares. Also, I don't remember being able to 4 wheel drift through roundabouts under power, in a corrado VR6...or accelerate into a corner without the onset of terminal understeer, like you can in a quattro car. Or maybe physics work differently up here! :wink: I'll agree that on the flat out stuff, there's not much in it between the two...an advantace to the S3? Yes. But not a huge margin... a noticable one none the less...assuming the driver of the S3 knows how to drive the S3 in order to get the best out of it (completely different driving style to the Corrado VR6) Obviously I have an S3...so I know it well. But, I also have a Corrado VR6 (although it's fair to say it's not moving anywhere in the near future...none the less I've enough experience with them to be able to give a fair appraisal), and a Mk3 Golf GTI 16v. I drive each one differently...and in my opinion, the S3 is the fastest car I own, point to point, in all weather conditions. The Mk3 16v Golf is the most fun... The VR6 has the best engine (Schrick VSR, cams, BVH etc) - incredible piece of engineering The S3 the fastest everyday...OK, it's modified, but even standard it was. I'm not arguing with anybody elses accounts of their car against car 'X' on the road...different cars, different drivers, different moods... All I'm saying is that with the same driver (me) in any one of the above cars, all well set up, the S3 is the quickest. Everywhere. Assuming you can get the LHD based EIP tuning kit to work properly on a RHD car...you may well be right! :)

Let's compare like with like then shall we? You can't possibly rattle on about comparing directly, the two engines. 2.9 litre 6 cylinder vs 1.8 litre 4 cylinder with a turbo the size of an orange! Hardle fair to compare them directly...however, you can compare the relative preformance when fitted to their respective chassis. Let's say Corrado VR6 against S3. S3 has more power and torque, but weighs more so in terms of comparing car for car it's a perfectly valid comparison ...standing start in all conditions the S3 is quicker - how much quicker is dependant on driver and conditions, but for the majority of normal people it's noticably quicker. ...middrange, the S3 with it's torque delivery, the TT / S3 absolutely murders a Corrado VR6. Period. Now lets assume modified: VR6 with £4000 spent on it...compared to S3 with the same amount spent...basically: VR6 with Schrick VSR & 268s, big TB, big valve head, exhaust and mapped to suit...what sort of power...maybe 240 BHP / 230 lb-ft or torque if you are lucky. S3 with re-map, Exhaust & cats, FMIC, Samco hoses but retaining the standard turbo...maybe 270 BHP / 305 lb-ft. You tell me which will be quicker? Now lets look at turboing the VR6... Let's say 400 BHP but 'only' 280-300 lb-ft of torque...turbo's VR6's don't make monumantal torque. Quicker than a sorted - but standard turbod - S3...so lets look at a big turbo S3...350 BHP / 350 lb-ft...or higher...up to 400 BHP / 350 lb-ft depending upon the tuner you use. In this case the VR6 is far more an equal adversary for the S3...but you need to have 4 WD and another £4000 spent on the tranny to use the power / torque. In normal everyday occasions the tuned S3 engined car will be the quicker for the money spent, more reliable, easier to get parts for, less likely to overheat, less likely to weep at the headgasket (turbo'd VR6 problem) etc... The TT/S3 1.8T is a wonderful engine...superb tuning potential at a reasonable cost...not sounds cack. The VR6 is an incredible engine...sounds superb...but doesn't make the change to forced induction easily or happily. It's very easy to say that you can't compare the two because one is turbo'd...what a load of rubbish...you use the old motorsport equivelant formula for BTCC turbo vs NA and you find they are directly comparable...infact you may find the VR6 has the edge! :wink: You also have to compare torque delivery - high on a VR6 and flat from 2500 to about 5500 on a 1.8T. You also have to consider gearing...which is only a toeque multiplier after all.

I'm sorry...but I just don't think that's gonna work. Cars like S3s, M3s, TTs RS4s and too many other high risk cars are just too recognisable. Professional thieves (that's who we are speaking about here) do actually know a bit about the cars thay are nicking as they make their living out of knowing what to take. Theres no way - for example - you'll ever convince someone a de-badged S3 is a simple A3...or a bodykitted A3 is a S3. It only takes 20 seconds to look for the tell tales. If you own cars like that...you have to learn to live with the fact that there are people who will harm you or your family to obtain what you work very hard to buy. That's a fact of modern living. I don't like it...but you are stupid if you aren't at least aware of it. As far as I'm concerned, you need to invest in a tracker or similar, an alarm with anti-hijacking, or a mobile phone linked remote immobiliser...then let them have the car, call the police than have them collect your car. It's not a nice thought... But I'm allergic to pain...especially pain inflicted needlessly over a lump of metal...which *IS* insured. These guys were lucky...I'm pleased they got away with minor injuries and the car untouched. As time goes by, I think they'll look back and realise quite how lighlty they got off.

Or they'll get bored and smash the interior up...or torch it just out of devilment. Let's be honest...I value my life slightly more than my car...if they are prepared to beat you up in full view of others just to get your car keys...they can have the f**king car. It's insured. Same if they break into your house to get your car keys...I'd rather have to claim for a stolen car than spend some time in the local A&E...or worse. I'm relatively fortunate that I live on one of the safest areas in the UK for car crime. I also drive a highly modified Nogaro Blue S3....so I am in the high risk group. I'm not too bothered around my local area...but I'd not fancy a trip to a known high risk area...I'd hire a car rather than risk mine getting nicked or vandalised. Stupid or what? :? At the end of the day...these two guys were lucky to get away with relatively minir injuries...and get to keep his car. If it's a choice between the health / life of me, my family or my friends...or the car? They can have it. So, you'll not find me with a piece of 4x2 in the car, or a baseball bat...or anything else that is likely to p*ss the thief off...I'd rather walk away with my health intact. I guess in the heat of the moment however, things may be different. But, at the end of the day, it's only a car, and it's insured (and those who know me will know how paranoid I am about my cars...) If it get's nicked and I'm stranded / late getting somewhere...I'll be hacked off, but: It's better to arrive late for one place, than early for another. It may well be worth giving that some thougfht...as you just don't know what a masked man has tucked under his jacket....and I personally wouldn't hang about to find out.

On my 2.0 16v a K&N was dyno'd at the massive gain of under 1 BHP. My Milltek cat back exhaust also gave the massive gain of 1 BHP...and lost 1 lb-ft of torque... So I think you are safe to say you won't have a gain of 10 BHP...and anyone that tells you you will, is talking out of their rear end. You would be surprised at exactly what you would have to do on your engine to get a genuine 10BHP gain at the wheels!

I'm confused. Can anyone explain why the length of vacuum hose to the ECU seems so critical? I just don't get it... Assuming there is no collapsing of the hose to block it under vacuum, no balooning of the hose under pressure, no leaks along it's length and no leaks at the connections, it shouldn't matter what length the hose is. The hose could be 1" long, 30cm long, 1m long or 3 miles long...as long as the hose it suitable and connected properly meeting the criteria above, the pressure within the hose - be it positive pressure or negative pressure - will be constant throughout it's length. OK, with a 3 mile long hose there may be a slight lag in the reading...but the difference between 30cm and 1m...come on! I just don't get it. This isn't rocket science....so can someone please explain to my simple engineering brain why basic physics doesn't seem to apply to VW Corrado vacuum connections?

I'm pleased to see you have resisted the temptation to lower it so far that the driveshafts end up pointing upwards and all the chassis inbuilt roll resistance is lost....lower it so far that the CV joints are stressed.....lower it so far that the sump is exposed.....etc, etc. A car dumped in the weeds may look 'cool' however it doesn't look quite so cool as the owner bottoms out on a yump and removes the bottom of the sump resulting in a catastrophic loss of oil.....or breaks a driveshaft attempting to go fast. Both very un-cool. It happens. I also see (by the look of things) that you have 16" wheels...bravo! Resisting the temptation to fit 17" or bigger and destroy all the forgiving nature of the chassis. I too think that 16" wheels are the best compromise between looks, grip and practicality....having tried the others over the years I'm most happy with the 16s. However, if you drive on Scottish roads in winter...the standard 15"s are by far the best!

Not strictly true. Castor is not strictly adjustable...although a limited amount of adjustmant can be gained within the limits of moving the front subframe around on it's mounting bolts...but this is generally fractions of a degree. This is common with most VWs..certainly anything with a front subframe like a Mk2 Golf, Mk3 Golf, Corrado etc. Unless you know of another more adjustable method? Can I just say that I applaud you...you are one of the very scarce breed of people who actually use coilovers to improve the handling of their car first, and the looks seciond! :thumbleft: Most people just set them to look good...and never understand the improvements that can be made if they are set up professionally and corner balanced. Sorry Kev... I'm not buying that...the last literature I read stated that the Corrado VR6 came from the factory with 1.2 degrees of negative...so unless this particulat VW tuner's literature was incorrect, I'd say you need more than 0.5 degrees! The additional negative camber is what made a standard Corrado handle better than a standard Golf...forget all the passive rear steer bollox...the negative camber is the single most sensible mod you can do to improve front end bite, and hence handling....in my view anyway. If a Corrado and Golf are both set up similar, the differences evapourate...I can assure you. So, if the Corrado comes with 1.0 degree +...surely adding more negative camber will improve the handling again? Well, yes. And no. Adding negative camber works a treat when you have body roll...having very stiff dampers and no body roll in addition to 2.0+ neg camber can make a road car unstable in a straight line and because of the limited roll, you will not gain the expected benefits of added negative camber on the bends. Also too much negative will wear out the inner edges....but if you like back roads you'll be wearing out the outer edges at present anyway...so tyre wear should stay constant as long as you are sensible. For a road Corrado / Golf with decent suspension and standard anti-roll bars, I'd try about 1.8 - 2.0 degrees negative. (anti-roll bars effect body roll...and the less the body rolls on a road car, the less camber you need) For a road Corrado / Golf with decent suspension and uprated anti-roll bars, I'd try about 1.6 - 1.8 degrees negative. For a standard road Corrado / Golf with standard suspension and standard anti-roll bars, I'd be looking to get about 2.0 degrees of negative on each front corner. Out of interest, race cars tend to run between 3 and 5 degrees. Of course, tyre compound, wheel size, wheel & tyre width, driving style and roads driven etc all come into play...but for my driving style these are the basic settings to go for for a transformation in handling. 0.5 degrees as you sugested will make for a very stable in a straight line, understeering on the corners type car...not as good as it could be! The improvements that camber / castor brings are not rocket science...they are cheap (only the cost of a set up) so go and have a play. After 11 years of building modifierd cars, doing trackdays, hillclimbs and sprints, I have the following on my Mk3 GTI (OK...it's not a Corrado...but it's not a million miles away!) Koni coil-overs, Eibach anti-roll bars, Powerflex bushes all round, 7.0 x 16 BBS wheels with 215/40/16 Toyo tyres...front camber is set to 1.2 degrees negative at each side - the point at which any more neg camber and the tyre / rim was hitting the front strut. Now I've added 10mm spacers and I'll be going for 1.7 degrees of negative per side...and 0.5mm toe out each side. The turn in is sharp - very sharp - understeer is fairly non existant (Quaife LSD helps here!) and the back end is rock steady...but there are improvements to be made. Going to 1.7 degrees I hope will do the trick. I'm not saying mine is perfect for everyone...but it will be for some. My tyre wear is equal (over 7000 miles now on these settings)...so I just can't stress enough to people to go and have a play....you may be surprised with the results.

Well that just depends...as dubster82 says...they are too high for his liking...and mine....and he used the Corrado subframes as far as I'm aware. But there again...you're a bit of a short arse!! :lol: Those of us at 6'3" and over will not be able to even get into the car with the Ford Recaros in. Each to their own...but like dubster82, I prefer the seat to be as low as possible...and the Ford Recaro option just doesn't wash.

Let me guess Brian...they sit too high? It happens...I have a similar problem with fitting the Mk4 Recaros into a Mk3 Golf...the Ford seats look good but simply don't work without a complete re-design...not if you are over 5'6" anyway. Best get hold of a set of Mk2 or Corrado Recaros to avoid the height problems. Never mind...nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say...at least you've tried. They did look good though!

And what exactly is a BMW spec spring? Springs are measures in lb/inch...or kg/mm or one of several other units depending upon your persuasion. A 'BMW' spec spring could be 200 lb/inch...but so might a Skoda Fabia...a Ford Focus...A Ferrari F40. You get the idea...there's no such thing as 'BMW' spec...as BMW spec changes front and rear on each model they make / have ever made. Linear rate springs only have 3 variables: ID (inside diameter)...normally 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" (or the metric equivelant if you prefer SI units!) Spring rate...for example 300 lb/in Free length...something like 12" for a VW coilover That's it. Period. It's just too big a world to say that FK use BMW spec springs...so might 90% of all the worlds cars! Why would FK choose to modify a BMW spec spring when they can have any combination of the above factors on a set of custom springs, perfectly, every time? (Things get more difficult with progressively wound coilover springs but that's not for here). Good. Because you both do...often one more than the other. In life Roddy...we develop the ability to not take the bait...it comes mostly with maturity. We develop the ability not to get bent out of shape about things that - in the grand scheme of things - are fairly unimportant. It's often better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak out and remove all doubt. Perhaps this should be considered occasionally. :wink: I believe Brian enjoys a days fishing...unfortunately the only thing I see taking the bait (very publically) is a certain VR6 driver. :oops: But hey, it makes for good reading. Do you pair know that there are people who log on here just to read the exploits of the pair of performing seals trying to score points off each other? Sad, but true. It's a shame when a potentially educational forum ends up as a mocking board.