alackofspeed2

So not the same engine then! The Corrado side is pretty straight forward. Swap the pressure switches from the 16v to the 20vt oil housing, and connect the plugs. The switched power, rev counter feed, and fuel pump relay feed are all in the connector to the 16v ecu. The rev counter will need a signal converter to work - Qpeng sell 'em I think. The water temp is again quite simple - I guess you noted the plug when you remove it from the 16v. Connect it one side of the double sensor on the 20vt, with a potentiometer inline to get the resistance right. Not ideal, but it'll give you a vaguely sensible reading with temperature. Lastly, i think, the alternator - there'll be a connection to the 16v alternator, which is the charge signal to the dash. It should be fairly obvious. I've done a couple of these, but about 2 years ago, so my memory is a bit cloudy.

Hi, I hope the conversion goes smoothly. Out of interest, where did you source the engine and ecu from? The reason I ask is a friend sold exactly that set-up about a year ago, but the chap that bought it seemed to go quiet, we wondered if he lost interest in his conversion, and now I'm wondering if you bought his stuff. Would be amusing if it is the same engine / ecu, as that was in a Corrado 16v up until June last year!

Rev counter converter isn't needed, as the emerald can put out different signals to suit.

I'm happy with that.. can always weld a flexi in the end of the downpipe! But I'm hoping to fit a solid front engine mount to stop the engine moving too much! I'd weld one in anyhow - won't do any harm.

It's Goose - he's had a red (is it called Mars Red?) Mk1 GTi sat in his father's workshop for the past 2 years or so. He had a number of repair panels welded in, at the usual locations, but hasn't the time, money, patience, or drive to make it what he originally intended (4wd 1.8t). It's totally naked, but would be a good shell to start with.

I know a man with a MK1 rolling shell that's had all the rot repaired...... you could probably have it for buttons.

It doesn't, and also don't forget that you'll need a flexi.

Hi all, A quick plea for some assistance. I have been helping a friend swap a 4-mo engine into his VR6, and he's gone down the route of an Emerald ECU. We need to get the car started, and running sufficiently well to pass an MOT, but don't have an engine map! :shrug: I'd be grateful to anyone who has a map they're be prepared to share, that's sufficiently sorted to get the car driveable, the closed loop working well enough to get the through an MOT, and a few hundred miles up the road to be mapped on a rolling road. If you can help, please get in touch. Many thanks, John.

Cheers. Do you know what the differences are, and where the code is on the engine?

Hi, I'm helping a friend replace his ABV (?) VR6 with a 24v 4-mo engine. I'd be grateful if someone could tell me where the engine code is stamped on a 4-mo 24v engine - it's lovely and clear on a 1.8t, but wasn't immediately obvious on the 4-mo engine when having a quick look in this evening's twilight. I understand there are different 2.8 24v 4-mo engines, if someone could tell me what the engine codes are, and the differences between the engines, that'd be great. On a side note, has anyone used a storm emerald kit with a 4-mo engine? My friend got the engine for buttons, but only has engine plugs and bare wiring, and no OEM ECU, so current management favourite is a pre-mapped emerald ecu from Storm. Thanks, John.

Nope - my friend has had none. From memory peak boost with the closed loop should be ~1.5 bar in the mid-range, tailing off to 1 bar at the top end. If you were running 1.6 bar for anything more than an overshoot, something wasn't quite right.

I doubt you'll have any problems with the map - I've only read of one person having problems with the QPENG MBE kit, and in that case I believe the issue was that the purchaser stated his engine code incorrectly.

I suspected just a broken switch - if there's a guide to fixing it, that's excellent! Cheers.

Hi, I helped a friend diagnose why his VR6 wouldn't start this evening. As far I could tell, it's the 'start' aspect of the inition switch which has failed, as the engine will start if the live feed to the ignition switch is bridged to the starter solenoid feed, whilst the barrel is in the run position. It was pretty dark, and there wasn't much time available, so I wasn't able to deduce how easy it is to repair / replace the switch mechanism. Has anyone experienced this failure before, and or knows how to solve the issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, John.

Ah balls. Sorry - I barely read this board, so didn't realise it wasn't common knowledge. Oh well, at least nobody knows about that Monaro VXR engine you picked up for a song, and the supercharger on its way from the US. Oh cock, I've done it again! ;-)

Ben, Are you using "bundy" pipe to make roll cage templates? It's what a roll cage fabricator near me does. Any progress so far? John.

Crikey Ben, no wonder you had some "bother" with your licence if that's how you drive these days. The roads around Guildford are much better than I remember too. :wink: :D On a serious note, good work, but I'd try flocking it - probably cheaper than material covering, and gives a true motorsports look. Once it's done, hang up the tools for a bit, and get some proper driving out of it!

Cool. Have you sorted the prop' alignment concerns?

The gearbox comes out of 5th, and the lever returns to the neutal position. I'm not convinced it engages properly to be honest, and this isn't a function of the shifter in the car, as when selecting 5th using the tower,it doesn't appear to move as far "forward" as it does for 1st, and 3rd - something appears to be limiting the movement. It would be useful to speak to Vince, but as I wouldn't be sending any money his way, I'd be taking liberties.

Hi, A friend is having a bit of bother with an AYK - 02A - gearbox, which will jump out of 5th if load is removed and reapplied. Further to this, when running in 5th a slight vibration can be felt, which isn't present in the other gears. Another friend (biggerbigben), who had issues with 5th in an 02C gearbox, said that the 5th gear diaphram springs snap, resulting in dodgy 5th gear selection, and he suspected the springs have given out on the ayk gearbox. Does this sound likely? The prospect of pulling the gears off, and generally messing around with stinking gearbox fluid is very unattractive, so it'd be good to know the right part is being targetted before starting! Thanks in advance for any help. John.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/170542.htm

From what I recall there are 2 types of mk4 tower too - perhaps there are 02j towers that match their respective 02a counterparts?

Good to see this coming on Ben. Hopefully once it's done, the weather will come good and you'll get some decent use out of the car. Do Jabba make a slightly different kit to work with MK4 derived 4x4 1.8t cars, or do they also cut and shut things very slightly to make things work?

I swapped the towers over, but unfortunately although the CDA tower will fit in the AYK 'box, it'll only select 2nd and 4th. Very annoying.

That's the one! Cheers - I will use a bigger mallet!