alackofspeed2

I think on my employer's maintained scheme a Golf SE TDI is about £330, ditto a Leon TDI, Focus 1.8tdci... and if you go up to about £350 a poorly specified 170 GT-TDI Golf can be had.

:nono: Twas £2k, 16 months ago..... and 59mpg average is doable when capping yourself to 85 on cross-country mixed driving, so driving at normal speeds 47-53 is more typical. A good daily barge, for milking company mileage rates with.

It's on his "to-do" list, as the manifold does get a hefty blast of heat, along with moving quite a bit relative to the head. The only problem is the engine wasn't supplied with one, so he's got to source (or stump up the cash at the dealer for) one first.

The dubpower manifold doesn't fit perfectly, but doesn't hit the underside of the car Ben has been working on. On another friend's car, with a 2.8 24v, the manifold is very close to the underside of the tunnel, and the flange isn't perpendicular to the chassis, meaning the cat replacement pipe is kinked to straighten things up before mating with the existing vr6 system. On both Ben's, and the other chap's car, the manifolds blow , and it sounds to be at the head. I'm unsure what the cause is, as the manifolds appear fine (plates are true, and no pin holes found yet), but the guy with the 2.8 24v has tried a new gasket (didn't work), tried double gaskets (didn't work), and is now a litlle short on ideas. :cuckoo: "Biggerbigben - Mates R32 Storm - MAPPED.. by friend&Myself!" - it's mostly there, but the cold start needs sorting, the air temp correction maps need double checking with a better air feed (cooler) to the throttle (air filter is behind the rad.... 75 C intake temps!), and the coolant temp sender needs to be calibrated. Even with some rather safe retard to compensate for the intake temps, the car goes pretty well, but there's more to be had. The ignition map is pretty safe (we believe), as it's a minor tweak of an ignition map Dave Walker create for a 2.8 24v.

Exploit the depreciation someone else has swallowed, and get a diesel rep-mobile. Small economical cars carry "just passed my test and need a car" tax. 50 miles each way, or 50 miles a day? Do the sums really stack up to get a second car, by the time you've included all running costs, and not just the immediately visible costs?

John, you're not getting away with that statement! :nono: :wave: An E39, and a Corrado are quite different in size! Over 70cm difference in length, and easy 10cm in width.... I reckon your elastic tape measure could do with replacement.

ta

Does anyone have a picture of a Corrado with Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels fitted? Preferably a silver wheel on a dark car, but any picture will do. Thanks.

Its running on Qpeng and has no MAF :confused4: N75J already ordered, need replace and we will see..... hope my car starts driving as should. How old is your lambda sensor, and is it a good quality one? On my friend's car, which also runs the QPEng MBE ecu, he found when his lambda semi-died, that his fuelling went wrong, resulting in the car missing under load. I presume, but don't know, that the lambda is used for fuel trimming the open loop settings too, so if the sensor is defective, but not totally dead, the fuelling is upset.

Have you read this? http://www.qpeng.com/conversion_guide.html The guide doesn't hide any nasty surprises, it really is as easy as it suggests. If you're considering buying an already converted car, be wary of the management and mapping - it makes all the difference. Headline power and torque figures are all very well and good, but if you want to use the car as a daily driver, you need to be sure the car has good cold start, and good driveability through the rev range at all the load sites. I have 2 friends running cars equiped with the qpeng kit (one nr Wimborne, another in mid-Dorset), and they both drive very well - I thoroughly recommend it the PnP kit, and the downpipes. I suspect my friend will briefly be at the TidyVAG meet on the 11th, if you fancy popping over to have a chat about his 1.8t conversion.

Where in Dorset are you? There are bods in Dorset with 1.8t Corrados and Mk2 Golfs...... The conversion isn't difficult.... as long you've got half a brain, a bit of a patience, and don't mind digging in. As for cost... are there any already converted Mk2s or similar for sale? A friend recently bought a Mk2 which someone had converted to run a 1.8t, cherry-picked the good bits from the golf, and swapped the engine into his (much tidier) Mk2.... The donor mk2 set him back a fairly low sum, which was further offset by selling anything of worth (leather, alloys....) from the donor.

HID in one, standard in the other.... the contrast is amusing. Whilst I've got HIDs in my car (I'm the chap Corozin mentioned), I'm aware of this: http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/roadsafety/drs/hidheadlamps I've got 4300K bulbs in mine, as they're a very natural white and hopefully will never catch the attention of the feds. The HID kits are the only true solution I've seen to the Corrado's diabolical dipped headlights, arguably make the car safer, and having been followed by a friend in his C with HIDs fitted, if set correctly they do not dazzle.

Hi all, I'm helping a friend with a few issues on his 1994 Corrado VR6. One of the (many!) issues is an ABS fault, which manifests as the light coming on as soon as the car starts moving, and no pump action if you slam the anchors on. Clearly there's a sensor issue, but we'd rather not replace parts on each wheel in turn, until the fault is solved. I've searched the forum for an idiots guide to obtaining, using, and connecting vag-com to this generation of VW, but I've not managed to suss what needs to be bought / downloaded to be able to talk to the abs ecu. If someone could run me through an idiots shopping / download list, and then explain where the plug is on the corrado, it would be really appreciated. Incidentally, I've found an OBD2 port on the car, but as the car has a number of mk4 golf parts in the centre console (climatronic, dvd sat nav) I'm unsure if the port is a mk4 part just there to fill a void, or if it's connected to anything! All help will be greatly appreciated. Cheers, John.

That amused me John! :D Brought back memories of Keevil last year. Keeping on topic, my friend and I tracked his Mk2 20vt a couple of times, and it was always surprising how capable it was for an old tin can. It does bring a sense of smug satisfaction when you're overtaking "superior" cars (Clio V6, Impreza STI, S2000....), and the owners are curious enough to come over for a chat.... that the car also costs peanuts to run / repair (cheap tyres, brakes......) makes for some excellent value fun. If you can find a solid mk2, or even a filthy cheap one you're prepared to tart up mechanically, you'll have a hell of a laugh.

N'ah - that's Ben Radford's old car....

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/downlo ... &mode=view

I'm pretty sure, from memory, that the top pipe on the fuel rail is the return. It's the one that goes straight to the FPR and not via the injectors.

If Ben says you don't need one, that's the best confirmation you'll get - he's always been right when I've spoken to him. My mate didn't use one with the Qpeng kit on his Corrado.

Do you mean, run a vent to atmosphere dump valve, or whether you'll run one at all? If the latter, you need to run one to avoid compressor stall, but you can run a recirculating one to minimise the noise. That said, unless you run the car with an airbox that has good attenuation, you'll hear a re-circulating dump valve (even the cheapo standard VW item) pretty clearly. You'll be hard pressed to hide the fact the car is turbo-charged, as you'll get pretty clear noises from the exhaust, and when the turbo is flowing hard, you'll hear it pulling the air in through the filter (unless you run a standard VW mk4 airbox, or similar). As an aside, what radiator are you going to be running? If you plan to go on track, or simply give the car any kind of sustained grief, put at least a Corrado VR6 radiator in, if you haven't already done so.

Ben, The wiring diagram that Goose sent you, is for semi-sequential (3 pairs) injection. This, as I understand it, is the most advanced option on the emerald, as there are only 4 injector drivers. You could run fully sequential on engines with 4 cylinders or less, with Emerald. The diagram is based upon the Storm wiring, as they sent Goose the pin-outs. Going on the earlier remarks in this thread, it seems it's the optimum way to use the emerald with a 6-cyl engine. However I could be totally wrong..... and the above utter cobblers. As for power, I've been told just touching 300bhp is possible with the standard cams, a r32 sized throttle body, a "decent" exhaust [whatever one of them is in this instance] and the vvt running maxium overlap, using the emerald management. Like you said, the VR throttle has an appreciably smaller ID. Get your mate to sent his ecu to Emerald to be configured for sequential and they will install the additional 3 injector drivers that he needs. This is what I did a while back. Its only an extra 3 wires but it will make all the difference. The Emerald can have upto 8 injector drivers provided they have been configured to be used by Emerald. Ben your fax just isn't working bud, and I left the bloody sheet at work will get it scanned and posted on here for tomorrow mate! Hmm, that's interesting to know - I don't know why he wasn't told of this before, as the ECU was bought only recently! I know what you mean about the improvement - a friend had batch (or maybe semi-sequential) on a 1.8t, then switched to sequential, and the difference was instantly obvious. Okay the map was also better, but I've little doubt the injector sequencing helped considerably.

Ben, The wiring diagram that Goose sent you, is for semi-sequential (3 pairs) injection. This, as I understand it, is the most advanced option on the emerald, as there are only 4 injector drivers. You could run fully sequential on engines with 4 cylinders or less, with Emerald. The diagram is based upon the Storm wiring, as they sent Goose the pin-outs. Going on the earlier remarks in this thread, it seems it's the optimum way to use the emerald with a 6-cyl engine. However I could be totally wrong..... and the above utter cobblers. As for power, I've been told just touching 300bhp is possible with the standard cams, a r32 sized throttle body, a "decent" exhaust [whatever one of them is in this instance] and the vvt running maxium overlap, using the emerald management. Like you said, the VR throttle has an appreciably smaller ID.

Water pump impeller - was the OEM plastic one, and it failed. Replaced with a metal impeller one, and no issues since. AUQ engine, so later style coils - had a few fail, but now all are the latest version, and they're fine. It's a mate's car I refer to, but I've driven it quite a bit, including two track days. If you're going to do track days, fit a VR radiator and a decent high CFM slimline fan.

As do Emerald - £30.

Boost solenoid: Pneumatically - one side to the wastegate actuator, one side to the pressurised side of the boost pipework. Electrically - switched 12v to one side, earth through a PWM output on the qpeng.