zacon

I finally decided to buy a new set of injectors, since the problem was getting worse. The old injectors looked like they were really old. Now I have no starting issues anymore, the engine always starts on the first turn. Thanks for all help.

I find it strange that I never have misfireing issues when driving, but I'm not that experienced. Especially if the problem is with fuel pressure or ignition. I do however find it more logical that the problem is with the injectors. My car has a high mileage. I talked with a friend of mine yesterday, and he told me he had some kind of instrument that would "see" whether an injector opened or not. I guess I could borrow that.

Yes; the starter works, and the engine turns as supposed. I never checked for actual spark, but as I never smell any gas in the engine bay after a failed start I kind of ignored that possibilty. I figured I'd connect a fuel pressure gauge and drive around with it for a while, but I really don't have a clue.

I have a problem starting the engine on a Corrado 2.0 16V '92. It's only a problem sometimes, and doesn't seem to have anything to do with the weather, sometimes it starts at once even if's really cold outside. I have never had the issue when the engine is warm, though. When the problem occurs, the engine cranks fine, but doesn't fire. I sometimes have to turn the key five or six times before the engine starts. When I finally get it running, the engine misfires frequently for a few seconds, then it starts running properly. I never have any misfireing issues when driving. I never smell gas in the car, so I suppose it's a fueling problem. I recently changed the in-tank pump. I don't really suspect the battery, as the engine starts so quick most of the time. I don't know the condition of the battery, but it looks fairly new. Any ideas?

I believe there is another one inside the fuel pump, which I think is broken in this case. The car runs fine on full tank.

I am pretty sure the 2.0 has the same two-pump system. I know (most) G60's have a single pump which is located in the tank.

I am thinking about GSF part no. 18389. The 2.0 is a '92 model.

I still haven't figured out what the problem is. I tried to replace the fuel pressure regulator, and the vacuum hose, with apparently no change. I also replaced the rotor. When driving, everything sometimes work neatly, but all of a sudden, it's like I run out of gas and the engine in running on air. The pedal does nothing. Then, without any warning, the engine sounds like it's running again, and the car accelerates. This happens all the time, so it's it's a nightmare to drive. It helps to gear to a lower gear. When standing still, the engine runs perfectly on idle, but when I step on the gas, it sometimes almost dies out. Please help!

The old engine was running nicely (although only on three cylinders). I never heard the new engine running before I bought it. I suppose it could be the fuel filter or the pressure regulator. The engine runs; it's not like I never had it on 5000 rpm, so I don't really suspect the timing. It's just really unstable, and misfires frequently, except on idle. At first I suspected I had water floating in the intercooler. I attacted a picture of the old distributor cap.

I recently replaced the engine in my Corrado G60. The engine runs fine at idle speed, but when I rev the engine, it almost dies out. I have tried to replace the spark plugs, leads and distributor cap. The distributor cap and rotor was really worn, so I suspect the rotor is causing the problems. I'm currently running the engine without the compressor. Right now I have the bypass value open. I've read that vacuum leaks may cause this behavior, could it have something to do with the bypass value?

Are you really sure of that? The level seemt to be below minimum when I had the clutch line off, leaking for a couple of days. I thought the separation wall was up to around the minimum mark... Also, should I have the ignition on?

I tried to bleed my clutch today. I had the clutch line off recently, so the pedal was completely dead. I tried to search around the forum and on google, and found some articles. Some people said to begin with master cylinder, then slave cylinder, some said the other way around. Some said only to bleed the slave cylinder. What I did was to connect a clear hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, then open bleed nipple, push pedal, air comes out, close nipple, pull pedal, open nipple, and so on. I did this like thirty times. Still air was coming out through the hose, and I eventually gave up. I then tried the same procedure with the master cylinder, although here there was no fluid level raise in the hose. It didn't seem to work, and the pedal is just as dead. The clutch was working fine before I had the clutch line off, ie. the gearbox out. I have filled the brake fluid reservoir to max with DOT4 fluid. What am I doing wrong?

There are some non-vw specific shops which probably could do a nice job, but it will be so expensive I could buy another Corrado or two instead. Salaries are generally high in Norway, so that makes things like this very expensive. Unfortunately... I've heard about people that had it done in Germany, but never caught where. Anyone?

I have replaced the whole engine in the car. I have been very careful to put everything back like it was with the old one. I'm a little confused and nervous. My Corrado is equiped with a Rotrex compressor by the previous owner. I have a fluid reservoir to the left of the compressor, where the original air filter would go, that says "POWER STEERING." I suppose now that this reservoir was fitted when the compressor was replaced. The lower outlet on it goes to the compressor. I somehow thought this reservoir was both power steering and compressor oil. I was gonna fill the clutch fluid reservoir, then bleed the clutch. Do I need to bleed the brakes aswell? I'm afraid I had standard, red, power steering fluid in the compressor fluid reservoir. Is this really, really bad, what should I've had in there? I haven't started the engine with the compressor yet, but I did start the engine right after I put it in there, only just to see if it was running. I probably shouldn't have done that without clutch fluid. I'll get power steering fluid from the local VAG service center on monday.

It would be more convenient for me to go to Germany for a retrim rather than to Britain. Can anyone recommend anything?

I have a couple of questions. I've understood that the clutch fluid reservoir is right by the brake fluid reservoir. Should I use standard DOT4 brake fluid for the clutch? There's a fluid reservoir near the intercooler and battery. What goes in there? I don't have the service handbook. Thanks.

Mine came off quite easy, really, I just used a hammer. I got the new belt on now, really hope I got the timing marks right. I turned the camshaft pulley to where it should be according to the instuction illustration, then I aligned the distributor shaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley so that the mark on the crankshaft drivebelt pulley overlapped the mark on the distributor shaft pulley. I couldn't find any marks on the crankshaft pulley itself. I had to turn both the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys a little after I took off the belt. I hope I didn't break any of the valves.

Supercharged: You need to take the drive belt pulley off to get to the timing belt pulley. I got it off now, I didn't need to to take off the center bolt like you said. Silly me. Thank you!

Are you sure? I took out the four bolts around it also, but it didn't help much, except that the power steering pump pulley came off.

I'm having a really hard time getting the center bolt of the lower drivebelt pulley loose. The engine is not in the car, and that is probably making it worse, since the crankshaft is rotating. What should I do?

Yeah... I'll have to second that. The water pump seems to have it's own belt on the G60. In some engines though, the water pump is powered by the cambelt, including in my old car. I still can't see how changing a cambelt can break the water pump, but I've heard it's actually common on many cars. I'll take out the water pump from the old engine tomorrow. I guess I hope it's really broken. Any other ideas, if it's not something with the water pump?

Unfortunately, I found out two of my cylinders were cut up on the inside, after removing the head :( I bought the car cheap with the problem, but I hoped the lack of compression was just due to faulty valves. I now suspect the water pump broke while the old owner drove the car, causing the engine to overheat. He just had the cambelt changed, without changing the water pump. I heard it's a common problem that old water pumps break right after you change the cambelt, is this true? Anyway, I went to Sweden a couple of days ago and bought a complete new motor, so hopefully, everything will be fine when I get the new one up running.

Hi, I'm about to do the same job as Mamps, only I hope to keep the old head. I'm thinking of buying GSF part. no 11482G, which is the G60 head gasket set, as well as new valves. I hope there's no damage to the pistons. I've understood that it is advicable to change the head bolts too, are those included in the head set? Also, do I need to shape the head somehow before refitting the new gasket, or is it good enough to ensure that there are no traces of the old one?