zacon

The first G60s came with both a lifting pump in the tank aswell as a primary pump under the car by the fuel filter. The newer ones had only one - which was inside the tank if I'm not mistaken. It's really easy to measure the fuel pressure on the PGs, just connect a fuel pressure gauge in place of the pressure thingy you were talking about earlier. I'd suppose too high pressure could cause your problem, but I'm really not that sure.

Alright, the mark is on the lower cover I guess. Stupid me. I put the cover back on, and aligned the mark on the pulley to the mark on the cover. If this is right, then the belt must have slipped two notches, as it is now wrongly aligned at the camshaft pulley! The mark on the flywheel is still nowhere to be seen though, I really can't understand why it's not showing. I guess I'll just have to search the whole flywheel. How the belt could slip is also beyond me. I did notice that the tensioner looked older than the belt though, maybe it wasn't changed when the cambelt was. About the pulley that goes to the rotor - how do I align that one?

Yeah, I did that, there's supposed to be a little oval mark in the flywheel at TDC, but I couldn't find it. I don't have anyone to help me today either, so it'd be hard to spot. There's supposed to be possible to align it on the other end of the crankshaft aswell, making the mark on the flywheel show. I'm afraid I don't have the Haynes book, it's really hard to find. All I have is the Bentley Corrado manual, but it doesn't cover the 9A engine.

The temperature sensor seems to be working. The coolant is nearly 20 degrees, and therefor according to the characteristic for the sensor (at least the on in the G60) I should measure around 2 kiloohms, which I did. I'm having trouble with matching my timing marks. I found this: http://volkswagen.msk.ru/engine/9a/9a_p ... g_belt.pdf . First I turned the crankshaft so that the mark on the camshaft pulley matched the mark on the cylinder head cover. I then looked at the flywheel ([4] in the guide), and to my surprise the TDC-mark wasn't there! The ignition rotor was pointing to the first cylinder though. I got really unsure of where the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley should be aligned. Thing is, the mark was pointing at the belt when the camshaft mark was aligned. I tried to turn it to the mark between the distributor and belt (see attached picture) by turning clockwise, but the TDC mark on the flywheel was still not there. Please help me!

No, but I know where it is, so I could just hook up a multimeter and check if it's working. Thanks.

Feel the radiator / use a ir termometer if you have one after running the engine for a while. If it's cold to the touch, replace the thermostat, otherwise not. If the fan never goes on, check for a faulty thermoswitch by shorting the outer pins on the connector. The connector is on the lower left of the radiator. The fan should go on by doing this, if so replace the thermoswitch. Keep in mind that the thermoswitch won't kick in if the radiator doesn't get hot. You should check the gasket on the expansion tank cap though, it should really never surge up.

I guess I'll try to do a timing check according to potatonet's post in mistrall's thread first thing tomorrow.

The fact that the fan runs too much could be because the thermoswitch is faulty. Take off the connector on the lower left off the radiator when the fan starts to run. If it stops running, change the thermoswitch. If it still runs, check the wiring. You should be sure that the radiator isn't just always too hot though. The headlight thing is a common fault. You need a new headlight loom.

I'd be surprised if the ECU-casing isn't ground. Thus the easiest way to ground it would be to tape a wire from the engine to the ECU-casing. (I wouldn't recommend that as a permanent solution) You could also just measure the resistance between the ECU-casing and battery minus if you suspect the ECU isn't grounded. It shouldn't be more than a couple of ohms. Same with the engine. I can tell you that pin number 6 on the ECU-connector is common for both the sensors you are refering too. It should be brown/white.

All I can tell you is that the CO-pot thingy is also the inlet temperature sensor. I have no idea whether it is the temperatur sensor or the potentiometer that had broken in Henny's case. If you measure between pin 1 (blue) and pin 3 (brown/white) you will get the temperature reading. By measuring between pin 2 (blue/white) and pin 3 (brown/white) you will get the potentiometer value. I wish I could help you more.

I suppose I'm not, but since the cambelt is tight and nice and the distributor is secured, it wouldn't think it could have changed... I suppose I should check though. Another thing is that the problem and time reference frame was linear, ie. the problem came steadily gradually. Also I never really checked the timing on any engine, so I'd have to read a bit I guess. Do you know if bad timing would case the huge fuel consumption?

I refitted the cat and screwed in the lambda properly, but there's no change. The car won't start at all. Well, I managed to get it running once, after trying a lot, but it wouldn't go over 500 RPM and sounded like it got far too much fuel. I tried to unsuccessfully start it once, and I then took off the big pipe between the airfilter box and the throttle valve right afterwards. I noticed there were a lot of gas fumes in there. How the hell could that happen? I also tried to remove the air filter, too see if that made any difference, but it didn't. I really wonder if bad timing could account for the large fuel consumption??

It's not a hard job, I'm really sure you'll make it. If you follow the hose you took off, you'll see that it goes into the water pump, which have many hoses connected to it. Take off the lowerest one. (The water pump is attached to the engine) If you poured out all the power steering fluid, you should probably not drive the car until you either refill the tank or take of the power steering belt. Don't use the red stuff you'll get at a gas station, ask at the VAG shop.

I did this recently. I've also got the 9A engine you're having. The bottom radiator hose is on the inside of the closed thermostat, so I suppose you only drained the radiator. Take of the hose at the far bottom of the water pump. (it's below the hose you took off.) Don't worry too much if you don't get in 5-6 liters. When the expansion tank is full, start the engine with the cap off. Then refill. Wait for the engine to go warm, then refill again, to the max mark.

The catalytic converter seems to be fine - it says on the sticker that it was manufactured in july 2004. I can't see any signs of it being damaged. Also I hear nothing when I shake on it. I took a picture of the lambda probe. Does it look alright? I did notice that it wasn't screwed properly into the cat, I could unscrew it with just my bare hands. I don't suppose that could've caused all these problems though. Please give me some advice! I find it hard too believe that the cambelt slipped as it is good shape and tight on. The previous owner told me he had it replaced right before I bought it, and that's around a year ago. Also the problem came so gradually. The ignition distributor is secured properly too.

Could it be I have a knackered cat? I've noticed a ratteling, almost crackling sound coming at around 3500 RPM, but it always goes away completely at around 4500. That could also be something completely different, though. I suppose I should also check the timing, the ECU vacuum line and for cracks in the exhaust manifold. The problem I mentioned first, reminds me of this guys: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42514 Could any of these things account for the huge fuel consumption?

I had a really unpleasant trip to the cinema today. I've had some issues with hesitation on low engine speeds before. Often when the engine is cold, it has been hesitating on all speeds, in connection with high fuel consumption, according to the MFA. Today it started off like that, but got worse and worse. When I reached the movies I had been using twice as much fuel as usual according to MFA. The oil temp was also higher than usual. On the way home it got really bad. I had a lot of backfireing, the engine got really hot, and the car almost didn't move forward at all. When I finally gave up and stopped by the road, the oil temprature was 110 degrees. I didn't think that was THAT bad, but when I popped the hood, the exhaust manifold was to my surprise glowing really bright. I shorted the radiator fan and waited for half an hour before starting again. When it finally started I soon realised it was no good, so I pushed the car to a decent place and hitchhiked my way home. What should I do, please help! It's a '92 2.0 16V (unmodified 9A engine)

I did this job a while ago, only I replaced the fuel pump housing and kept the fuel pump. I think I'd recommend taking down the whole fuel pump housing.

My engine started ticking on the way home from work last week. I noticed my oil level was somewhat low, so I refilled a little, without improvement. The next morning it was fine, but started ticking again after around 20 kilometers. My engine seems to start ticking every time it gets hot. (It actually has to be hot a little while.) This seems to happen regularly. I changed the oil a couple of months ago, using a 10W40 oil. It's a 2.0l 16V (9A) engine.

I'll PM you then.

I have to admit that I don't know what a caliper cam is. What do I have to do?

My handbrake is not working at all. I tried to tighten the cables with the nuts at the lever crank. Now it's really hard to pull the lever more than around four-five clicks, but even then the car rolls fine. Where do I begin? Should I replace the cables, or is it something with the calipers? I had to tighten the nuts really much, but still there's no tension on the cables when the lever is disengaged. The brake pedal works, however. It's a 92' 2.0 16V.

You just ran I through a translator, didn't you? ;) I tried that too, but it really didn't make that much sense to me.

It's a VDO Immobiliser 2000 T. I found a little brochure in the glove compartment, but it's german only. I tried to jump start the starter. The engine turned over, but didn't start. In the brochure it says the following: Die notbedienung wird durch kurzes einschalten der zündung eingeleitet. Die LED blinkt anschließend mit langer leuchtdauer. Führen sie innerhalb von 30 sekunden den code schlüssels aus der bedieneinheit ist die wegfahrsperre entschärft. Innerhalb von 30 sekunden kann das fahrzeug gestartet werden. and Bei einem spannungsverlust wird nach wiederanlegen der versorgungsspannung, der vor spannungsverlust aktive zustand des immmobiliser wiederhergestellt. I'd guess those things have something to do with my problem, but I can't understand it.

I forgot to turn off the headlights the other day, and when I found out the battery was already completely flat. I therefore took out the battery and charged it with a battery charger till it was fully charged again. After replacing the battery, the car won't start. The VDO imobiliser usually blinks until I put the little key in it. After that it usually shines red and the car can be started. Now it's always blinking, and nothing happens when I put the little key in. What to do?