outlandish5

The easy way (if you have the tools) - Weld something onto the snapped bolt that you can get a grip of.

I have an old G60 cat if your interested in ripping it apart. It should still be good but I have 2 and only need 1.

Charger rebuilt 20k ago. Already checked throttle cable, but I'll check again to see if its slipped since I re-attached it after servicing. I'll see if I can get it plugged into vagcom to check the sensors, im friendly with a guy who used to own the local VW dealership and he just so happens to have taken the equipment to his home garage when dealership changed hands. Exhaust is slightly leaking where downpipe meets middle system, so I'll pop round ATS and get a mate to sort that too.

My G60 doesn't feel as fast as I would have expected. It feels slower than a mk3 16v and a mk2 8v. Timing looks right and also checked various bits and pieces. Im just wondering what the common faults are that may restrict performance. On Monday im going to order spark plugs and a timing belt tensioner (wasn't replaced when belt done 20'000 miles ago). If it was any non-charged VW, friends and I would be able to sort it out, but the G60 is a bit more fiddley and we don't wanna feck about with it untill we know more.

Are the 2 cams lined up against each other correctly?

Suppose I can just fix it back into place with some silicon or such like.

If memory serves... on the drivers driveshaft near the gearbox end there is a wide/large rubber(?) ring that grips around the driveshaft. This has slid off and will not slide snugley back to where it came from, it will only sit loosely around it now. What is this and is it needed? Wondering if I can just cut it off.

I might start saving for a boost return kit in that case. Is there different makes/types that cause different whistles/noises?

Very nice indeed. Are the boxes attached to the car in any way?

With a dish that big you'll be finding next doors cat camping in them.

Jabbasport advise against removing the boost return. Snippet from their website; "Jabbasport always recommend that the standard boost return system is left in place. Remove this and block off the return system to the Supercharger will starve it from the oil vapour it needs from the engine breather, this is needed to lubricate the sprung assisted Apex seals within the casings. " I want the whistle back but dont want to alter too much from the factory standard.

No-one care to shed more light onto this matter?

I replaced all the gaskets and the boost return pipe was cracked and taped up from a previous owner, so I replaced it too. So am I correct in gathering that the whistle is caused by air passing though the boost return pipe, and now that I've replaced the cracked pipe it will no longer whistle as there is no leak? The car feels fine but what other ways is there to finding out if I have a boost leak?

Just replaced the downpipe on my G60 and I went the route of removing the throttle body & manifolds. After putting everything back together the whistle has dissapeared, It's whisted for years on deceleration from high revs and I want it back! What actualy causes the whistle? Is there something I've forgotten to attach or maybe something that wasn't attached beforehand?

Even if you do get it off, I doubt you'll be able to get it tight again if you re-ude the shock. This happened with me on my old mk3 16v. We split the top at the threads then drilled the rest out.

Tip ex good for marking, easy to see with little light too. For the top nut I welded a bolt to a 19mm socket so I could fit the allen key down the middle. As for the top nut securing ring I somehow found myself in possesion of the proper tool, grinding down a bit of pipe to fit can also be done tho. Half hour per side including jacking up and taking wheel off.

Inspecting the flap it looked like the wedge was screwed onto the flap and it could be removed. Or is this not the case?

Hmmm I might need to look into that. I'll inspect my TB tomorrow and I may have a 6A TB available to me to take the flap off. I do seem to remember that it looked rather restrictive.

We all know when throttle off the inlet butterfly shut, with the G60 the boost return butterfly is open. As you increase the throttle the inlet butterflys open and the boost return close at the same rate, so its only fully closed at full throttle. This makes me think that there is lost boost, so what will happen if I can get the boost return butterfly to close a little before full throttle. Im not interest in removing the boost return pipe as I've been advised that the oil breather that feeds into helps lubricate the charger. Also what tools are needed to port/polish the internals?

I got the inlet manifold and such off easy enough, didn't need any extra room.

Front engine mount needs to come out anyway, got a Vibratechnics one which will be going in next week. Cheers dude

Hmmmm, so more needs removed then. Oh joy. I might look down the route of removing the inlet manifold because I was thinking of polishing it all anyway, so I suppose here's the excuse. Will be easier to get the downpipe bolted back on too.

I've managed to undo all 6 nuts to detach the downpipe from the manifold without removing anything, but how the hell do you get the downpipe out of the car completely. It doesn't seem to want to squeeze through between the subframe & bulkhead, and it cant go upwards. Whats the trick then?

Many cars, the Golf's being a prime example, have larger front arches than rear. So to get the arch level with the top of the wheel, the front needs to go 20mm lower. Looking at the Corrado's, I dont think its needed to lower the front any more.

Usualy sits between 90 & 108c through normal drivng. On a 600 mile motorway trip after picking up the G60 where my average speed may or may not have been sitting around the 3 figure mark the oil temp got to a max of 118c. Thats on a standard Raddo too.