skid

AS i said the MAF and ISV have been cleaned numerous times.

I was a bit unsure about buying a cheap MAF compared to a Bosch.

I changed out my Yellow sensor for a new replacement from VW and this is now Black.

Can you clarify what sensor needs to be done(How many wires, and is it right,centre or left looking at them?)

I was going to leave the Muffler box as its repaired now but i will change it for a new one now.

Well i replaced the Lambda probe today and the car is still doing it.

Wires to it was checked and they seamed all fine.

Tried it tonight from cold start, and idled well till it hit 75 deg and then it started searching up and down!

Translation plz Dox?

Maf wires are good as i checked them. They have been repaired in the past and they are good.

Just had the car MOTed, unfortunately it failed for having honeycomb plates on......past every other MOT with them on!

But it struggled to get through emissions to start with and came up with these figures on its first Fast idle test

CO Max 0.30% 2.62% Reading FAIL

HC MAX 200 PPM 60 PPM PASS

LAMBDA 0.97-1.03 0.93 Reading Fail

Second Fast idle test:

CO Max 0.30% 0.29% Reading PASS

Natural idle test @ 600-800rpm

Max 0.50 0.45% PASS

Could this be a sign of the Lambda sensor being out?

Battery gets disconnected while I am away so it was never flat. Had a few runs in it, cleared codes various times but still coming back 😖

Add me to the list for 1 please.

Since i returned home from offshore my 95 vr6 has had problems with its Idle and slow speed running when its hot.

I initially found the ISV muffler box was cracked badly and had a vacuum leak. This got repaired with Araldite and is totally sealed now.

i have checked the whole intake system for leaks and nothing has been found.

I cleaned and lubed the ISV.

I cleaned the MAF and checked it was working by testing the voltage across its wires and it comes out as good.

The car seams to start and idle well while cold but occasionally when hot the idle becomes so erratic, hunting up and down, sometimes delayed throttle action.

The car keeps chucking these codes up every time i clear and re check.

00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation

11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

Why is the MAF coming up when the voltage checks show it as good and its clean?

Are the Lambda probes prone to going or could it be something else?

Any advice would be great?

Sorry I should have mentioned it's the muffler delete I am asking about.

They cost £39 from VW.

My 95 vr6 isv muffler was cracked damaged, I only noticed when I found the car not running/idling right.

Unsure if it's that to blame as still checking heaps on the car.

But as an immediate repair I araldited the box back together which also seals it back up.

I am unsure if this box should be 100% air tight as it's still got a vacuum leak.

My main question is should I replace it or delete it?

Thoughts?

I had a problem sourcing new pipes for mine when a company had damaged the threads. After a long search I managed to get a mobile AC guy that does lorry's,tractors, diggers etc to come and make a hose, charge the system etc.

I am up in Aberdeen, and the guy travelled 45 miles to help me out.

When I took the stereo out, I never seen an booster in the back, but to be honest that was just behind the stereo, I never chased the cable down further as my tray/glove box is a nightmare to take out and replace due to all the air con pipework in that area 😧

Couple of pics of my aerial at the rear of the car

John I have sent you a message, don't know if it went to your inbox or your profile.

I am confused with these aerials as I have read the later corrado had its amplifier in the aerial?

Thanks John.

Was it a genuine Fiat part? And was it an amplified one too?

Cost?

Can anyone else recommend where to get a replacement or if the Fiat one will fit?

Thanks, looked at WIKI article but shows no photos on it to clarify.

I think my roof aerial is knackered so I need to replace it.

My car is a 95 vr6, and am presuming it's an amplified one, but if anyone could clarify for me.

there are no power lead running into it, but from what I have read the power runs through the inside of the Co ax is this true?

Phoned VW dealers today and stated they now removed from available parts so wondering where I can source one.

Sure I read on here a Fiat 500 one is the same, can anyone confirm?

Mine works fine with key and alarm fob.

Does that mean it could be problematic with battery drain?

Cheers I will give that a try. I take it has a multi plug on the bottom of it?

Did you have to replace the solenoid?

Right folks my Battery has been getting drained by something, i have swopped out the battery a few times with freshly charged batteries but something is def draining them.

I did a check to see where the drain may be coming from and once i remove fuse 21 its drops down to an acceptable level.

Its draining at 1.01 MA and when removed it drops to 0.14 MA.

Definitely no interior lights staying on.

Cigarette lighter not plugged in.

Disconnected Central locking pump, made no difference.

Disconnected Electric window module, no difference.

MFA ? i Believe that comes off the same fuse but i didnt think it would draw that amount to work???

Any more thoughts guys?

Managed to get a new ignition switch and got it fitted this afternoon, and starts with the key :)

What a PITA that screw is to take out!

Bent my screw driver into various shapes and angles to eventually get the best to work.

What i did do to help put it back in was to cut tiny slots around the side of the head of the screw and used gasket pick to grab the slots and spin it back in.

Made it so much easier.

Big thanks to Yan and all the guys that suggested it was the switch.

At least i now know to look out for this on my VR6!

Well big thanks to Yan and his very descriptive post, i shorted the wires in the ignition plug and the car started.:)

Just need to get the ignition switch changed now!

Yan.

It only gets 12V when its put to the start position!

There is hardly any movement in the key/lock situation and i have tried put various pressure/angles, wiggles and it makes no difference to it.

I will try and remove the connection and Jump the wires.

Is there a guide for changing the Ignition switch?

So your saying it's a complete ignition switch to be replaced?

As said the car has only done 52k! Never knew it was a common problem!

What price was you for a replacement?