Albie

Difficult to tell. I had a different alarm module in it which went belly up a while ago. I couldn't use the car and mothballed it for a bit over the winter. When the other unit was working it certainly did close both windows and sunroof, and in stripping that one out there were no additional relays to remove at all nor any wiring to any. I have details from the '93 Yankee wiring scheme from a Ruski site, (don't you just love the irony of an American version of a German car having to go Russian for info)? This shows the window control mechanism and I will admit, I thought the Corrado had the ability to control its own windows at least. This is not the best picture but should show enough detail to make it clear. Remember right and left door switches have to be swapped. I have a feeling that this unit only needs a trigger pulse and it takes care of the rest. But then again I have been known to be wrong in the past. (Not the sunroof though!)

Thought this might help to make things clearer. It's the installation manual (haha!) for the unit.

Trying to set up a Hawk HA-64U window closure module. I think I'm right in saying that the Corrado, (Kreg 2.0L 16V), has its own closure system so it only needs a short trigger to this existing system from the new box to achieve full closure. If this is correct then I don't need to rig anything up to the window wiring directly, the existing setup does it all for me. From there on in there are 2 setups shown, one with negative and one with positive triggering. They both have connections to 'Lock' and 'Unlock' with both of these being labelled with the polarity for that setup, [+UNLOCK +LOCK] or [-UNLOCK -LOCK]. Can anyone confirm which polarity applies to the Corrado? And while we are on, what the heck is 'ACC' which is the only other connection in these 2 schemes??

I am in the process of finishing the fitting of a new alarm system and am having a problem with the wiring diagram I have. It is from the Russian site and seems to be based on American versions, (don't they all)! Firstly, the door wiring. Taking the existing alarm as a model as it did work correctly, it was attached to leads which were in 2 distinct sets. One was Red/Black, Brown/Blue and Yellow to a small 3 way plug attached above the fusebox so these seem to be a functional set. The other was Red/Black, Red/Yellow and Red which were just 3 wires in the door harness which had been singled out and attached to. The problem I have is that neither of these sets matches what is shown on the schematic. In the diagram there are 2 specific connections shown from both of the lines connecting the right and left door central locking switches marked for the "Anti-Theft Alarm Control Unit" of Red/Yellow and Red/Black. The left, (read right for us), front central locking switch shows as Brown/Blue, Black/Red and Red on the diagram. These are close to what I have on the car but no match. I could guess what is going on with my existing wiring but can anyone just confirm for sure what my old connections were hooked up to? Secondly, the handbrake (parking brake) switch shows as one lead of "Grey (or Brown)" and the other of Brown. Yes, that could actually be live Brown and switched Brown! The "Grey(/Brown)" goes off to the ABS warning control unit, and the other lead seems to bring in a 12V feed from the fusebox so no easy earthing to chase with the meter. There is a nice little block of 5 sockets behind the lower centre console with a few 3 way connectors in, each holding only a single cable, which are all connected together. One of these is a grey lead coming from the gearchange area and there are brown leads in there too. Is this the handbrake switch wiring? If so that is an easy connect thank goodness. Sorry if this is very complex, describing wiring with colour codes and keeping things clear is not easy when the functions are not well defined. Any advice from someone who knows the setup would be appreciated. I suppose the other thing to do is to break down the door and look insed to see what goes where, but if I can do it without having to do that it would be neater.

Not sure what you are getting at 3corsa. If it is from the manual which came with the unit then surely it is the official procedure? Or is the manual NOT a Scorpion one? I tried the 'Voodoo' one too and it didn't help me either. I don't mean that it won't help anyone, these methods obviously do because people report them as successful, but there may be some states that the system gets into which these processes will not recover.

Thanks for the instructions. I did come across the turning on, reconnecting, turning off, hold 10 seconds steps before and tried them a number of times. No dice in my case I am afraid. I do suspect there may have been something wrong hardware wise. I now have the alarm out and a new one going in. Not the easiest of tasks taking the original installation in to account, it wasn't first class! Good advice about the currrent status of the Scorpion5000 with insurers. Probably best I change it anyway, although the old girl doesn't have too many miles left in her I think. I'll post the advice here and we know this is now the official Scorpion recommended procedure. It may be useful for others. OFFICIAL SCORPION 5000/918/998 RESYNCHRONISING PROCEDURE:

Thanks A1. That would be great. If this is a standard device for a lot of Corrados then posting the instructions in a separate easily found thread may help a lot of people.

Think I've moved on a bit here. I have now realised the following. Position 1), not indicated in the posted picture but indicated as 'Lock' in the alarm schematic, is with the key actually removed from the lock. Nothing shows 12V here except the Red permanent live feed. Position 2), Brown/Red live, is with the key inserted and either pushed in against the barrel spring where it can return and switch off again when allowed, or turned so the barrel screws in slightly and the detent locks it in place. When turned backwards, the connection is then locked in until the key is removed again and the barrel jumps back out. This is labelled 'Accessory' in the alarm drawing. Position 3), Black/Yellow and Black both live, is with the key turned until it meets the starter spring, ie as far as it will go without starting the engine. This is labelled 'On' for the alarm. Positions 4), Red/Black and Black both live, is with the key in the sprung start engine position, labelled 'Start'. Confirmation that I am seeing this correctly would be great. I never knew something so simple and everyday could be so confused! The posted schematic picture now looks correct, the key removed is the 4th position which it does not show. Make sense?

Good luck with this one anyone who needs advice on this alarm. I have just had a similar problem myself. The "Scorpion 5000" is actually a renamed "Scorpion 918" which seems to carry VAG number "998 VAG 513" in my case. It was fitted as a dealer option not a factory fitted option. Somehow this seems to be the model all dealers offered. Presumably the discounts were good enough! Through my battery dying on me and the alarm getting out of synch with the key fobs it will no longer respond in any way. I tried for weeks to get restore steps which would work for me but they are just not available. I have come across advice which suggested a number of things. Hold the fob button down for 10 seconds then release it and immediately press it again for another 5 seconds. It will resynch. It didn't! Disconnect the battery, leave it for an hour (or overnight) and reconnect it with the key inserted and the ignition switched on. Then press the fob for 5 seconds. No better! These may even be covered in the resurrected thread so may work for you, but they didn't help in my case. The fact is the alarm is no longer supported by Scorpion and they cannot even repair it if sent back to them, they told me they don't have the facilities any more. Their advice was pull it out and replace, which is what I am driven to do at the moment.

Can anyone confirm something about the wiring of the ignition switch on my '93 16V? Are there 3 or 4 positions including Off? I am fitting an alram and their schematic shows 4 with coloured codes, I think there should be 4, all of the literature I can find talks about 4, even the schematic I have attached shows the correct wire colours in the loom, but it only shows 3 positions. Are they doing something stupid like showing it in the first On position, for accessories only, and not showing an Off position at all? That surely can't be correct. Even turning on the switch is inconclusive. Its feel is a bit soft and it seems like 3 on the way On and 4 on the way Off. This is surely 4 and the diagram is somehow wrong. Can someone just confirm this please so I can get on with the work with confidence?

Thanks for the heads up Dr Mat. I have found that a few people think the Scorpion 5000 is actually a renamed Scorpion 918 unit. I found the user manual and installation manual for the 918, (both disappointingly brief),but neither mentions a resynch process. I have added them here just in case it should be helpful to anyone else. Can anyone advise on the proper method for this alarm?

Sorry to start another topic but the whole nature of the problem has changed now. Can anyone who has a '93 16V with factory fitted alarm tell me which make and model of alarm unit they have fitted? Mine is unidentified and I cannot clear up the problem of unresponsive key fobs until I know what I am looking at. Thanks.

Just spoken with the guys at Bridgewater who were very helpful but they are mystified. They say it is definitely not a Foxguard key fob as it doesn't fit the description of any unit ever released by Foxguard. It had a Foxguard logo and name on the small sticky strip which normally covers the LED and tuning cap hole. Please can anyone identify this fob or am I completely screwed here? I don't even know where to look for an identifying mark on the main unit.

Just thought a picture of the fob may help identify a fix. Anyone know what the white 3 pin socket on the left of the unit is for?

This post was on the - ahem - TVR forum, (sorry about that, it wasn't me it was google). Guess what I'm prone to do when I have the key and my hand in the same pocket! (Keep it clean please). I wonder if this is the case for my own alarm fobs? I have measured the fob battery voltage and it reads 11.75V but that is off load and these dry cell batteries are notorious for dropping severely under load, especially the higher voltage low current types like this one. I'll get a new battery tomorrow and try the suggestion above and the one the TVR guy suggests too. Thanks for the heads up. Any more suggestions welcome in the meantime.