Albie

Difficult to tell. I had a different alarm module in it which went belly up a while ago. I couldn't use the car and mothballed it for a bit over the winter. When the other unit was working it certainly did close both windows and sunroof, and in stripping that one out there were no additional relays to remove at all nor any wiring to any. I have details from the '93 Yankee wiring scheme from a Ruski site, (don't you just love the irony of an American version of a German car having to go Russian for info)? This shows the window control mechanism and I will admit, I thought the Corrado had the ability to control its own windows at least. This is not the best picture but should show enough detail to make it clear. Remember right and left door switches have to be swapped. I have a feeling that this unit only needs a trigger pulse and it takes care of the rest. But then again I have been known to be wrong in the past. (Not the sunroof though!)

Thought this might help to make things clearer. It's the installation manual (haha!) for the unit.

Trying to set up a Hawk HA-64U window closure module. I think I'm right in saying that the Corrado, (Kreg 2.0L 16V), has its own closure system so it only needs a short trigger to this existing system from the new box to achieve full closure. If this is correct then I don't need to rig anything up to the window wiring directly, the existing setup does it all for me. From there on in there are 2 setups shown, one with negative and one with positive triggering. They both have connections to 'Lock' and 'Unlock' with both of these being labelled with the polarity for that setup, [+UNLOCK +LOCK] or [-UNLOCK -LOCK]. Can anyone confirm which polarity applies to the Corrado? And while we are on, what the heck is 'ACC' which is the only other connection in these 2 schemes??

I am in the process of finishing the fitting of a new alarm system and am having a problem with the wiring diagram I have. It is from the Russian site and seems to be based on American versions, (don't they all)! Firstly, the door wiring. Taking the existing alarm as a model as it did work correctly, it was attached to leads which were in 2 distinct sets. One was Red/Black, Brown/Blue and Yellow to a small 3 way plug attached above the fusebox so these seem to be a functional set. The other was Red/Black, Red/Yellow and Red which were just 3 wires in the door harness which had been singled out and attached to. The problem I have is that neither of these sets matches what is shown on the schematic. In the diagram there are 2 specific connections shown from both of the lines connecting the right and left door central locking switches marked for the "Anti-Theft Alarm Control Unit" of Red/Yellow and Red/Black. The left, (read right for us), front central locking switch shows as Brown/Blue, Black/Red and Red on the diagram. These are close to what I have on the car but no match. I could guess what is going on with my existing wiring but can anyone just confirm for sure what my old connections were hooked up to? Secondly, the handbrake (parking brake) switch shows as one lead of "Grey (or Brown)" and the other of Brown. Yes, that could actually be live Brown and switched Brown! The "Grey(/Brown)" goes off to the ABS warning control unit, and the other lead seems to bring in a 12V feed from the fusebox so no easy earthing to chase with the meter. There is a nice little block of 5 sockets behind the lower centre console with a few 3 way connectors in, each holding only a single cable, which are all connected together. One of these is a grey lead coming from the gearchange area and there are brown leads in there too. Is this the handbrake switch wiring? If so that is an easy connect thank goodness. Sorry if this is very complex, describing wiring with colour codes and keeping things clear is not easy when the functions are not well defined. Any advice from someone who knows the setup would be appreciated. I suppose the other thing to do is to break down the door and look insed to see what goes where, but if I can do it without having to do that it would be neater.

Not sure what you are getting at 3corsa. If it is from the manual which came with the unit then surely it is the official procedure? Or is the manual NOT a Scorpion one? I tried the 'Voodoo' one too and it didn't help me either. I don't mean that it won't help anyone, these methods obviously do because people report them as successful, but there may be some states that the system gets into which these processes will not recover.

Thanks for the instructions. I did come across the turning on, reconnecting, turning off, hold 10 seconds steps before and tried them a number of times. No dice in my case I am afraid. I do suspect there may have been something wrong hardware wise. I now have the alarm out and a new one going in. Not the easiest of tasks taking the original installation in to account, it wasn't first class! Good advice about the currrent status of the Scorpion5000 with insurers. Probably best I change it anyway, although the old girl doesn't have too many miles left in her I think. I'll post the advice here and we know this is now the official Scorpion recommended procedure. It may be useful for others. OFFICIAL SCORPION 5000/918/998 RESYNCHRONISING PROCEDURE:

Thanks A1. That would be great. If this is a standard device for a lot of Corrados then posting the instructions in a separate easily found thread may help a lot of people.

Think I've moved on a bit here. I have now realised the following. Position 1), not indicated in the posted picture but indicated as 'Lock' in the alarm schematic, is with the key actually removed from the lock. Nothing shows 12V here except the Red permanent live feed. Position 2), Brown/Red live, is with the key inserted and either pushed in against the barrel spring where it can return and switch off again when allowed, or turned so the barrel screws in slightly and the detent locks it in place. When turned backwards, the connection is then locked in until the key is removed again and the barrel jumps back out. This is labelled 'Accessory' in the alarm drawing. Position 3), Black/Yellow and Black both live, is with the key turned until it meets the starter spring, ie as far as it will go without starting the engine. This is labelled 'On' for the alarm. Positions 4), Red/Black and Black both live, is with the key in the sprung start engine position, labelled 'Start'. Confirmation that I am seeing this correctly would be great. I never knew something so simple and everyday could be so confused! The posted schematic picture now looks correct, the key removed is the 4th position which it does not show. Make sense?

Good luck with this one anyone who needs advice on this alarm. I have just had a similar problem myself. The "Scorpion 5000" is actually a renamed "Scorpion 918" which seems to carry VAG number "998 VAG 513" in my case. It was fitted as a dealer option not a factory fitted option. Somehow this seems to be the model all dealers offered. Presumably the discounts were good enough! Through my battery dying on me and the alarm getting out of synch with the key fobs it will no longer respond in any way. I tried for weeks to get restore steps which would work for me but they are just not available. I have come across advice which suggested a number of things. Hold the fob button down for 10 seconds then release it and immediately press it again for another 5 seconds. It will resynch. It didn't! Disconnect the battery, leave it for an hour (or overnight) and reconnect it with the key inserted and the ignition switched on. Then press the fob for 5 seconds. No better! These may even be covered in the resurrected thread so may work for you, but they didn't help in my case. The fact is the alarm is no longer supported by Scorpion and they cannot even repair it if sent back to them, they told me they don't have the facilities any more. Their advice was pull it out and replace, which is what I am driven to do at the moment.

Can anyone confirm something about the wiring of the ignition switch on my '93 16V? Are there 3 or 4 positions including Off? I am fitting an alram and their schematic shows 4 with coloured codes, I think there should be 4, all of the literature I can find talks about 4, even the schematic I have attached shows the correct wire colours in the loom, but it only shows 3 positions. Are they doing something stupid like showing it in the first On position, for accessories only, and not showing an Off position at all? That surely can't be correct. Even turning on the switch is inconclusive. Its feel is a bit soft and it seems like 3 on the way On and 4 on the way Off. This is surely 4 and the diagram is somehow wrong. Can someone just confirm this please so I can get on with the work with confidence?

Thanks for the heads up Dr Mat. I have found that a few people think the Scorpion 5000 is actually a renamed Scorpion 918 unit. I found the user manual and installation manual for the 918, (both disappointingly brief),but neither mentions a resynch process. I have added them here just in case it should be helpful to anyone else. Can anyone advise on the proper method for this alarm?

Sorry to start another topic but the whole nature of the problem has changed now. Can anyone who has a '93 16V with factory fitted alarm tell me which make and model of alarm unit they have fitted? Mine is unidentified and I cannot clear up the problem of unresponsive key fobs until I know what I am looking at. Thanks.

Just spoken with the guys at Bridgewater who were very helpful but they are mystified. They say it is definitely not a Foxguard key fob as it doesn't fit the description of any unit ever released by Foxguard. It had a Foxguard logo and name on the small sticky strip which normally covers the LED and tuning cap hole. Please can anyone identify this fob or am I completely screwed here? I don't even know where to look for an identifying mark on the main unit.

Just thought a picture of the fob may help identify a fix. Anyone know what the white 3 pin socket on the left of the unit is for?

This post was on the - ahem - TVR forum, (sorry about that, it wasn't me it was google). Guess what I'm prone to do when I have the key and my hand in the same pocket! (Keep it clean please). I wonder if this is the case for my own alarm fobs? I have measured the fob battery voltage and it reads 11.75V but that is off load and these dry cell batteries are notorious for dropping severely under load, especially the higher voltage low current types like this one. I'll get a new battery tomorrow and try the suggestion above and the one the TVR guy suggests too. Thanks for the heads up. Any more suggestions welcome in the meantime.

Hi. I have an original fitting (I think) Foxguard alarm immobiliser system. I have 2 fobs for it. These are small black rectangles 5cm by 3cm with 2 soft touch buttons on the front face, one with a dimple and one with a bump, an LED in the top left corner, a slider switch on the right edge and a white 3 pin socket on the left edge. They worked perfectly for years as did the alarm system overall. A few weeks ago I came back to the car and it just refused to respond to the day to day fob at all. I thought the fob battery may have had died even though the led still went on when pressed so I got the backup. That was the same and had no effect. I opened the door, setting off the alarm which was armed, and disconnected the battery. After a couple of minutes I reconnected and the alarm seemed fine and stayed off but still would not respond to either of the fobs. I was able to drive the car around like this, only locking the door with the key, for a week or so. Just today I have gone out again to try to figure things out and have disconnected the battery to clean up all of my earth and power connections. When I have reconnected the battery the alarm is now activated and goes off. Still no response to the fobs. If I leave it it resets and now sits active ready for my next move! I have read of a resynchronising process for the fob with a TVR Foxguard alarm. This does not appear to work on mine. I am wondering if the battery has gone down in the fob and in the backup as it has had no use for a long while. Can anyone shed any light on this or help me with the synchronisation process?

Check the underside of the rubber turret directing airflow on top of the metering head for splits inside the corrugations running along their length. This is apparently relatively common. If you just gently lever the airflow plastic tube up while you listen closely you may hear the sound change. The corrugations at the other end just before the throttle body could be checked too. Mine had split badly, and I mean badly. This caused similar symptoms to yourself with idle, and also eventually a kangarooing on acceleration.

Have you tried just cleaning it out with carburettor cleaner spray? These things are so simple they are often blamed for problems they don't have. Try flooding the internals with carb cleaner and letting it soak for a while then drain it out. Repeat until it runs clear. This may free things up. If you have a meter to measure the resistance of the coil to see whether it is ok that would be the only other simple test to perform. Don't know what the value should be but I could measure my own at work next week for comparison. Don't junk it without at least trying to free it. Here is some advice from an Audi site I found: Engine stalls at idle speed or stalls after the start Vehicle has no idle speed Cause: Coking causes the piston in the idle stabilisation valve -N71 to jam. Models affected: ABK engine from MY 95 Service: The idle stabilisation valve -N71 should be checked according to the workshop manual. If the valve sticks: Attach the modification kit for changing the air intake point for the idle stabilisation valve - Part No. 048 198 455. Replace the idle stabilisation valve -N71 - Part No. 048 133 455 The mod mentioned 048 198 455 seems to be some sort of inline restrictor which effectively goes in series with the valve and changes the airflow so the valve plunger has to work around a different operating point. Look at number 18 here and notice there are 2 variants listed in the parts list: http://audi.auto-spares.ru/A6/1997/189/ ... =013310140 Presumably if the airflow is restricted a little this should move it away from the sticky area in an attempt to allow more airflow to compensate for the restriction. Sounds like an idea for experimentation judging by the number of poeple who think they have defective ISV valves. Mind you a brand new one can be had for just over £85.

Late type M8 timing belt tensioner stud and nut at 18Nm / 25lb ft have been added nocrap. It would be useful to get some positive posts that it is fine. If there is anyone out there who has looked through the PDF and can't see anything wrong please tell me. That way I at least know that I shouldn't expect any more posts with corrections. At the moment, although I think it is correct, I am left worrying that maybe there is something major in it which I haven't spotted, and no one else is checking to find it either. When it moves off the current page in the forum we will have to consider it ok and I will ask the mods to consider this for the Wiki.

Thanks for th4e help on that nocrap. I'll check on it if I can and incorporate that in the list. Disappointing response to the work put in though. Maybe it wasn't a wanted resource anyway. Oh well, ay least I have my own copy now. :)

Hi. It's taken a long time but I have at last got to the point where we need to finalise the 9A torque settings entry for the wiki. Supercharged helped us get the job under way and Crasher has been invaluable in checking them over and over so far and suggesting changes and additions, so many thanks to them. However, before it gets released it would be great if a lot more people could have a look and check it out against their own experience and sources. It only applies to the 2.0L 16V 9A as info on that engine seems very thin on the ground, and it's all engine related as so many other values from other areas are shared and available. We have managed to put together a virtually complete set of torque settings for everything around the engine, if we have missed anything please let us know. It's in PDF format so it cannot be changed, either deliberately or accidentally. Once checked can you post any queries or suggestions in this thread and I will apply edits as necessary. Thanks.

Can anyone let me know what number the pins are at the ECU connector for the 3 throttle position switch connectors on my Kreg '93 2.0L 16V? I can't seem to get any electrical info on the 16V, everything easily available seems to be for the VR6, (American?) Thanks.

Must admit it was in my mind at the time. I did ask the MOT guy that and he said that the cat was fine. How would I know without exchanging for a new one and testing again, (at "£whoknows" a time)?

My 2.0L 16V Just failed the MOT on hydrocarbons. After a head rebuild and rings/big ends replacement, I only have 100 miles on the engine. HC was just over the 200 pass mark on the first fast idle test at 218, then way over on the second chance idle test after 3 mins at 2500 revs at 501. CO was perfect at 0.129, (should be In amongst other stuff I just went to check out and clean the throttle housing as it had also shown a fault code on his VAG-COM suggesting it couldn't see the throttle position switch. The switch meters fine but it may be a wiring fault. Could this affect the HC content and not the CO? Also I had replaced the rubber housing which guides the air to the mouth of the throttle not long ago. I got a reclaimed part which seemed clean internally and was dry but looked a little rough on its surface so it may have had some dried off gunk in there that I missed. I have just found that sitting in the lower corrugations of the rubber is a small pool of dirty oil. I have no way of knowing if it has been there long or how it got there. The manifold interior is black of course but not oily in any way. The rest of the intake tract surfaces are absolutely clean including the similar corrugations of the rubber cowling over the fuel metering unit. I had been wondering if I am drawing oil in and it is pooling there, but the cleanliness of everything else doesn't make that likely. I suppose the airflow could be scouring everywhere else and it is sitting in the grooves as it is out of the airflow. I suppose there is also a possibility that there was gunk in there and fuel and fumes from beyond the throttle have simply softened it and it pooled but it looked very like engine oil to me. I know that the old Sciroccos I used to run had a problem with engine breathing where the Brillo pad oil separator on the top of the engine would gunk up and oil could slip past it into the airstream. Is there a likelihood of this on the Corrado? Has anyone any thoughts on this? Of course no MOT means no opportunity to put miles on it and bed anything in any better! :(

Got to get a version of VAG-COM and the info is not straightforward. I've searched for a thread which gives advice and info on what's what but couldn't find one amongst the loads of others which just mention it. It's mainly to read and reset my K reg Corrado 2.0L 16V but my wife has a P reg Golf GTi too which would be handy. The Corrado has the 2 black and white 2 pin diagnostic sockets with full 4 wires to them. Looking at the Ross site is confusing. It seems to suggest that there are areas which may not get reported on the 16V Corrado. Firstly it only mentions the 90-92 16V and lists what is supported on that, so do I assume the 93> has full functionality? Rapid Data Transfer is mentioned too. Does that mean that the data is always available from the car though at a slower transfer rate? And is that relevant in this sort of application? I don't care what speed the data transfers at as long as I can get to it. For example, it says the ABS section does not support RDT but it is essential for me to at least have ABS available. I know I need a converter to take it from the 2x2 sockets to the full interface, and then the interface/dongle itself. Is there any benefit in getting a cheaper one of these from Ebay where they seem to be listed at low prices? I have a good up to the minute laptop so I assume a modern USB interface is best but do I choose KEY-USB or HEX-USB+CAN? Then I need the software licence. But which version will offer me a full reading of the areas on the Corrado? I have to keep in mind the fact that all I want to do here is to read codes and reset any problems I find. Whether the kit does the interpreting or I do from just reading the info and at what speed is not really of interest. Can anyone who has knowledge of the Ross system, or any other one for that matter, give me the benefit of their experience?