RapidVII

Lol, I like that :lol:

If this is any use to anyone, I have a G60 bottom end in the unit complete with gearbox ? The head was off the car when we got it, so ive no idea on the condition of both unless I stripped it. Is this any good to anyone, if so, make me an offer I am a FULLY QUALIFIED mechanic, so if I stripped the bottom end, you can have a detailed report. Or PM me with any enquiries you might have, and i'll do me best. Cheers, Paul

When it wouldn't start, had the car's temperature been high, eg, cooling fans coming in etc if so, I would hazard a guess that its the fuel vapourising due to a combination of the outside temp and engine temp. This is basically due to the fuel injection system having far to travel ( metering head to fuel pipes to injectors etc ) I bet once the car has cooled right down it starts on the turn of the key ? At the end of the day, it wouldn't have done this when the car was new, so its a case of eliminating certain area's, firstly id start with the fuel filter and fuel injector cleaner/service. If the fuel filter has never been changed, and then work your way up. How id be sure that its the vapour problem, is if you try to start the car at say, 15 to 30 mins intervals, if it starts and you get a misfire, then id be 99% sure thats your problem, and especially if you get a wiff of fuel from around the beneath of the car. If not, it could be a million and one things, personally id go back to basic's, are you getting - Fuel, Spark, Power etc. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the solenoid on the starter motor to me from the little info thats posted !! Weld your lug as close to the starter as possible ( or even feel it ) and get your mate to turn the key, if you hear or feel the starter clicking, then thats 'yer problem matey. I could go into detail on how to check your probelm electrically, but its 2.35am and I cant be arsed to be honest with you. If you need anymore help, if any of our other fine members don't reply after you've give us some more details, then when im better rested i'll be happy to help you in detail ! Cheers

If I can just add, If you overfill the unit with oil, it can cause major damage, depending on how much you over fill. The reason being is that under no circumstances, any liquid forms cannot compress. Try shaking a bottle of coca cola up with the cap on and see that the bottle goes rock hard. ( its a simple example ) The more you overfill, the more pressure it puts on the system, resulting in more damage to your engine. The oil under extreme pressure will find the weakest point of escape. I agree totally with Dub_Nut_G60 - get a compression test done, and also a cylinder block detection test, sometimes blown head gaskets are hard to detect, even with these methods. If you decide to do the compression test yourself, as a guide I used to take the readings, I would work on if there's any difference between the cylinders of 25psi. ( when the general compression is ok ) All I would do if your compression test works out ok, is give the car a good service including an engine flush, and just monitor the cars behavior really. R7

Have you thought about a Citroen AX 1.4D ? :lol: :lol: :lol: R7

Well you know what to do matey ! ps, I love the wheels on that rado of yours, suits the car very well.

In the interest of any of you's fine members that have ANY old CATS knocking about, The CAT prices are through the roof at the moment, so if you have any, pop along to your local breakers ( or anyone who is a registered vehicle dismantlers ) and I guarantee that they will snap yer hand off. The weigh in prices start from ( depending on the size of the CAT ) around 30 quid upto 100. Hope this helps someone out guys. R7 ps, dont be poisioning tins of whiskers :D

No problem. I'll make another just incase anyone wants one. From start to finish ( in a woodworking workshop with the appropriate power tools ) it took me around 4 hours to make just one. Christ knows how long it would take by hand. Cheers

Hi all, Just thought id show you all the gauges ive installed in my Corrado, as below. Here are the guages illuminated, I had to make the piece for the guages to sit in with MDF, took me a couple of hours. If anyone wants a template to make your own on cardboard, PM me and i'll send it you for a quid. Please bare in mind, once the MDF was cut, there's an hours worth of work in getting it perfect. I finished the piece with primer, met black spray and laquer. The link for the gauges is ( 19.99 each ) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1 I'll post the finished pictures of dials when there in the car tommorow with a bit of luck. Cheers, R7

Most newish cars today, relacement radio's plug straight into. So i'll assume for arguments sake that you have fitted a new radio with a wiring harness ie - Sony to VW. If this is so, then the actual length of the wiring loom has become longer, so hiding it away for the radio unit to sit comfortably in its cage leads me to think that it may have disturbed a multiplug or wiring in conjunction to the indicators. Its even possible that the Radio my be faulty or its been wired up wrong but thats a real longshot I reckon, unless whoever installed the radio is a fukwit. Personally, I would remove the radio completely and maybe plug in the original one to see if that cures yer problem. The problem has started since you removed the radio and installed the other, If its not related what so ever then thats just bad luck I guess. I would say that your problem is something or nothing, just retrace yer steps and check the wiring bud. R7

Ben16V, Great information and pictures thanks, Is the oil pressure sender that beeps on the MFA still connected also out of interest ? Cheers. R7

It should have had a recall for that " metal box " your talking about depending on the chassis number as I remember, off the top of me head pin number 4 and 8 I think should read infinity, if it dunt, the " metal box " is to be replaced and the wiring was to be sheathed. You better check though, as Renault might contribute a percentage to the bill if its not under warranty. Its been nearly 3 years since I worked for Renault mind, so me knowledge is fading - thank god. Terrible cars. R7

That would be great if you could find that out bud. Thanks very much. R7

Just a bit of pointless information here as im bored and have itchy fingers. WD40 - the "WD" stand's for Water Displacement. So there you go :lol: R7

Ive done several engine re-builds on these engines, and the only thing that's tricky is the cams, they can be a right pig, sometimes you'll get it first time mind. To be honest if your not a skilled mechanic, pay a teckie to do the job, beleive me if you've not done one before, mate its not worth the hassle. I posted a " how to " reply sort of thing on this forum about cams/cambelt head gasket. Here's the link anyhow if your interested ( was a main dealer mechanic for 10 years, Renault Technical Expert ) http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... highlight= For the record, I once drove a Corrado 2.0 16v with the KR cams, and to be honest it dint feel any different. Good Luck :) R7

Hi everyone, Ive just bought 3 52mm gauges for my '91 1.8 16v Corrado. They are, Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, and Oil Temperature. Has anyone fitted any of these independent gauges before, as if its possible to tell me where did you plug the senders to, for the gauges ? The senders I have with the gauges are just the standard type BSP thread that are found with most cars i'll assume. Ive done a search, and havent found anything to be honest. Any help would be great guys, it would save me a few hours in figuring it out for meself. Cheers. By the way, if your wondering where im mounting the gauges, im making a 3 holed unit that will fit in the gap under the ash tray, I think its where the cassette holder is on some of the C's. R7

Hi all, Can anyone tell me if a single wiper conversion thats fitted to a mk2 golf gti, would fit a 91 corrado please ? Cheers.

I must have done 2 dozen cam belt changes on the 16v engines, and this has happened to me once or twice, Remove the tensioner and and check it for excess play, it shouldn't have any. Spin the tensioner, if you hear any bearing noise, its on its way. Any excess play, bin it. Any bearing noise, either oil it back up or replace it. For the price of them, id change it TBH. The tensioning ( without automatic belt tensioner ) Make sure when you check and adjust the tension that you are at TDC when you do so ( or just a smidge over clockwise is fine ) Find the middle of the belt, at its longest point, and tension so you can twist the belt on its own axis no more than 90 degree's. ( If your using a belt tensioner, it should measure 13 to 14 units. ) When you've done that, spin the crank 2 turns clockwise ( 720 degrees on the crank pulley ) make sure that timing marks are aligned exactly - cam sprocket and inspection cover on the flywheel. Then check and re-adjust tension if needed. Tightning torques as I remember are tensioner bolt M8-25Nm M10-45Nm Crank pulley bolts are 20Nm ( on both models ) If your car has the automatic tensioner, Note: The engine MUST be cold. Get TDC, turn tensioner anti-clockwise until it stops. Tighten tensioner nut to 25Nm Turn crank 720 degrees until timing marks align ( cam sprocket & inspection hole mark on the flywheel ) The marks on the tensioner must align ( if not, retry until they do ) Push your thumb in the centre of the belts longest point ( between cam sprocket and the aux pulley ) The tensioner marks MUST move apart. Take your thumb of the belt and spin the crank 720 degs clockwise until the timing marks align. Tensioner marks should re-align. If they do, job done and if it whines, then the problem lies elsewhere. I will assume that your engine has the manual tensioner, most of them usually do, are you hearing the whining noise with the fan belt and power steering belt on and tensioned up ? If you are, take the aux belts off and start the car again, if it still persists and your belt tension is fine, I would say that the tensioner is knackerd. If it whines with the aux belts on, obviously check and adjust the tension, but also make sure the Hex bolts are tight on the pulleys. Follow this and I think you'll be fine. Personally, I used to like to hear them whine ( just a slight whine I might add, not screeming its balls off ) then you know that the jobs done right and its not slack as a bag of nackers. You'll be fine im sure. R7

Cheers matey, So thats - 5.25" fronts 6" x 4" rears ? If I bought the replacements, do I need to buy an adaptor plate, or will the original cones remove from the housing ( assuming its built that way ) Also, whats the maximun depth I could get away with for the replacements, ive had some Audiobahn stuff before in other cars and they are depthy to be honest. Cheers again. R7

Hi all, Im going to replace the component speakers on my 1991 1.8 16v Corrado. Could anyone tell me the correct size replacements for front and rear please ? Thanks guys, R7

Hello everyone, Im a new member just saying hi really. I have my second corrado a 1991 1.8 16v in Inca blue. I live near Doncaster, used to be a mechanic for a Renault main dealers, now work for an indapendant VW specialist/breaker. Just wondering if there's any decent modifications to do, conversions or general things to know, you know - the things in the know about what to do with the corrado's to improve them. Here is a couple of pics of the car, Cheers everyone. R7

Hi all, im another newbie so we all have to start somwhere ! Just reading the posts about the cylinder head and cam belt issue, I think I should say that ive done quite a few head jobs on the KR engines, and in my honest opinion is, if you've never done a cylinder head rebuild before, the KR engine isn't the best one to start on. The 8v PB unit is alot simpler for the 1st timer. If the gasket has gone, measure up the face of the head to see if it wants skimming first, if it does, remove the inlets, because they need to be removed for the re-face. Also remove the exhaust's, as its stupid NOT to fit 16 new valve stem's for the price of them. Its a time consuming job lapping the valves back in, but you will benefit from doing so, as the car will probably run better than it ever has done by doing so. You can either buy new tappets ( 3 quid each from GSF ) 16 of them, or if there not too noisy use the old ones, before re-fitting them, warm them up and work them in the vice ( I protect them with some hard plastic ) Make sure when you re-fit the tappets, along with the cams, use plenty of light machine oil for lubrication, its crazy not to do so. Use your common sense on whether or not to change the chain ( how many miles as the engine done ) again - for the price of it, its foolish not to buy a new one. Also, buy a new set of head bolts even though VW dont recommend you need to. Whilst the head is removed, use an old head bolt and work the block holes, just to make sure its not going to hydrolic on you when you fit the head. ( As liquid CANNOT compress if theres excess oil in the gallery ) If there's tippex or painted markings on the pulleys etc, my advice is dont follow them, rub it all of and do the job right. as you never know which monkey has timed it up before, set TDC and valve timing up right, then you know its right. Before you fit the head, get the pistons to TDC ( 1 and 4 at its maximum top dead centre ) remove the plastic cover on the bell housing, and you'll see the flywheel. Get a strong flat headed screwdriver and rock the teeth too and frow, until you see a circle with a line at the top of it ( like the letter O with an I positioned at 12pm on the O ), when you see that, ( which is the TDC mark ) get a sharp coloured crayon and lightly shade the mark, 1 because its dark down there, and 2 because sometimes there's another mark on the flywheel, and it saves confusion. Make sure that the O with the I mark is smack in the centre of the inspection hole, then that is TDC. When you have this lined up, get under the car, and on the bell housing you'll find a flywheel inspection cover that is secured with 2 or 3 10mm bolts, remove this and draw a vertical line from the bell housing to the flywheel, this helps to make sure you have TDC after 720 degree's. And also, the slightest movement of the crank will shift the marks. DO NOT bolt the head down with the pistons set at TDC. Rock the crank 45 degrees, or until ALL the pistons are in a vertical line with each other in the cylinders. THEN FIT the head. When you re-fit the cams, you'll find each cam has a O mark on the sprockets, they need to be lined up otherwise the timing will be out. Make sure though, that before the belt goes on that the cams do two full turns and line up PERFECTLY, other wise it will be at least a tooth out ( no half a tooth because its a chain, not a belt ) This can be a tricky job, as when you bolt the cams down, the valves open and shut slightly, and throws the timing out, sometimes you'll get it first time, and other times it can take forever ! After you've torqued the head down, ( set at TDC ) rock the crank to TDC and check your markings ( the one you marked on the flywheel when you removed the inspection plate is the most accurate ) If your unsure on how to make sure you have the camshaft at TDC with looking at the cams, grab your valve cover and tempory fit it, and the 2 corresponding marks should line up - one on the Camshaft sprocket and one on the valve cover. Before you drop the belt on, remove the tensioner and inspect it for signs of wear, eg, spin it for worn bearing noises, and feel it for excess play, again, if in any doubt, change it. Once the belts on, tension the belt at TDC, and to check its tension, find the centre of the belt when its at its longest, and it should twist no more than half a turn. Turn the crank 2 full revolutions of its cycle ( 720 degree's ), and check the timing marks, the marks on the Camshaft pulley, Valve cover, Inspection cover and inspection plate underneath should all line up perfectly. If it doesnt, DO NOT try and start the engine, take off the belt, re-set TDC and re-fit until you get this right. When everything is right ( 720 degrees or two full revolutions ) re-check and adjust the belt tension if required. ( on start-up, if the belts to tight it will whine ) Then comes to tedious job of building the rest of the stuff back together. My advice is, if you havent done a head job or timing belt before, and dont have the correct tools, pay someone who can do the job. It will save you time, anger and most importantly, money to be honest. Cheers and good luck ! R7