elrikos

i'm in high wycombe and always willing to help Rich

a long 5mm allen key with a ball end. Mines about 25cm long and i wouldn't want one any shorter. They're a right pisser to get out (and worse to get back in!).

try frost restoration (http://www.frost.co.uk) they do exactly what you need. Rich p.s. its product code E180 (page 4 of the electrical stuff at the bottom)

this may well be connected to the getting very hot scenario in the other post but as it may be a seperate problem i've posted 2 topics (please feel free to merge them etc mods). When i stop the car after a bit of a drive (when it gets hot (100-110 degrees running temp). i lock the car as normal (using the alarm blipper). After a few minutes the fuel pump seems to reactivate itself and you can hear fuel being pumped up to the front of the car and then hear it running back to the tank. Is this right????? Is it to possibly cool the injectors or some other crazy reason? Cheers RIch

Hey guys well i'm now having some fairly major overheating problems with my g60. a 10 minute run (admittedly on a hot day) saw it hitting temperature of 110 degrees. On parking up the fan came on....and then off...and then on again.(sets off the alarm when it does this, very annoying!) anyway the problem started when my local stealers reccomended using any old coolant to top up with. Big mistake! I did to be fair drain all the old coolant out of the system first and completely replace with blue stuff. This didn't cure the overheating problem. I've checked the thermostat and it appears to be working normally. I've also checked the top and bottom hose (top hose heats up as the car does, bottom hose stays cold and then gets hot at about 85-90 degrees). I cant work out why the car seems to get so bloody hot! after leaving it for about 3 hours it was still at around 80 degrees when i restarted it! i'm sure something aint right here and any advice would be appreciated things done new water pump. thermostat checked. system drained, cleaned and replaced with G12+. system filled through top rad hose. fan checked working ok as far as i can see. oil/air heat exchanger removed and small pipes blanked off securely. i can only think the radiator may be filled with crap from the coolant debacle? i've flushed it a few times and it was throwing out cleam water. wasn't exactly gushing out and did require a few "slooshes" back and forth to get it to totally drain but its definitely not totally blocked! any advice would be very much appreciated. I've spent hours reading through old posts and i cant think of anything else to try! Rich

Hey guys quick question on my g60. It was getting fairly hot (around the 110 mark in traffic). I've drained the system down and am now flushing everything through to check nothing is blocked etc. What i need to know is. From other posts i've read the small pipe going to the expansion tank (from the top hose) should have water pouring from it at all times when the engine is running. Is this correct or not as no one seems too sure! cheers Rich P.s mines a 1.8 g60

remove the white pegs either side of the fuse box (theres one each side) simply pull them towards you. Then remove. you'll need to remove the dashboard lowers too but thats only a few screws

hey guys. 1) I'm currently installing a toad ai606. All going well except forthe central locking wiring. The central locking works very well (copied the wires from the old alarm). Only problem is the maximum pulse the ai606 will provide is 4 seconds. This isn't nearly long enough to close the windows as well so they stay half open. Does anyone know how to wire this alarm up so that total closure works properly (i.e. making it pulse long enough to close the windows?). I'm sure theres something dead simple i'm missing here but cant for the life of me work out what it its!!! 2) quick advice needed on where to mount the main box. If anypone could pm me exactly where to put it i'd really appreciate it. p.s. if anyone wants to PM me some more general help on installing this i'd be much appreciated. I'm generally pretty good at this stuff but its beating me! Rich

Hi there. i'm trying to find out the differences between the early and late sunroof types. I know the late ones have 6 wires whereas the early ones have only 3. What i'm trying to find out is what these late motors do which is different to early ones so that i can get total closure on my sunroof. failing that has anyone got any ideas for making total closure wrk on my sunroof? cheers Rich

Hi guys well i pulled off the sump today (and found it was a shrick item and the car has a windage tray (WOO!)). Anyway on emptying the sump i found a quantity of small metal rings. they are very small (about 1-1.5mm diameter). They look quite shiny and hard. was wondering whether anyone knew of a place on the engine where a small spring is used as it looks rather like a spring which has been chopped up. engine looks in fairly good shape other than that (bearings are starting to go but easily caught them early enough to just replace the bearings. i'll try to get a picture up of the offendings rings later Cheers Rich

well i've ordered a set from GSF (hopefully they'll take returns if they don't fit! so you'll have a definitive answer next week! in the mean time if anyone does KNOW that the 16v bolts arent compatible then please tell me! (don't want to get half way through the job without all the parts!) cheers Rich

Hey guys Managed to identify a knocking on my g60. When up to running temp (oil at about 102 degrees) and idling. When giving it a faint whiff of throttle i get a nice knocking noise. From browsing about i see that general consensus points to big ends knocking. Anyway to the question! Stealers want loads for the bolts (about £6 plus vat and another £1.50 plus vat per nut). GSF do the 16v bolts (vag part number 048 105 425) for way less (about £1.20 ish and 40 p per nut. The vag part number for the g60 conrod bolts is 037 105 425. I was wondering whether it is actually the same part with a different number or whether there was a fundamental difference that meant they coul,dnt be used? I've searched extensively but cant find anything relevant to this question. Any help from someone who has done this would be very much appreciated. Thanks Rich

Just think about it this way. When was the last time you signed up with a company like car data in order to BUY a car? never happened? well they evidently don't have many buyers on their books. Rich

products made by farecla. g10 is like t-cut on speed. g3 is even stronger. Its used for removing oxidised paint to show through a shiny finish. also for removing overspray and flatting down to give a totally smooth finish. its great stuff available from any good paint factors.

long shot but have you checked your spam bin? activation emails for me quite often end up in there. Rich

lol! apparently the MD deals with all warranty issues and failures personally (which i do find quite reassuring and impressive i have to say!) Just waiting to hear what the verdict will be. The only slight concern i have is that i cant tell them the exact age of the pipe. Maximum 2 years though so hopefully they'll take pity on me!

Hi guys. Just wanted to get your opinions on whether i may have some recourse thorugh milltek on this one. I've PM's 16vg60 and am awaiting a reply but thought i'd guage opinion. I bought my g60 about a month ago and have noticed an exhaust blowing noise. No problem thought i, i'll just have to tighten a clamp somewhere. I went underneath the car today and found that the milltek cat replacement pipe has split open. The rear plate which the exit pipe connects to has got a nice semi circular split and is blowing like mad. I've called milltek and the MD is calling me tomorrow to discuss it. Not entirely sure what kind of response i'm going to get though as i didnt have the pipe fitted myself (a previous owner did). I have found out thanks to stealth racing (as graham from there used to own the car) that the pipe can be a maximum of 2 years old as it had a supersprint fitted when he sold the car in 2004. Anyway tohught i'd guage what you guys think. Will the milltek warranty machine come up trumps or am i going to be forking out ofr a new pipe? cheers Rich P.s this is by no means a moan at milltek. I'm giving them a chance to sort this one out and won't say a word against them until i've seen if they'll help me out on this one

just one thing. the guide plate with cable (part you've had quoted as £70 each plus vat). You only need one of them, not 2. The cable kit has parts for both sides. I've just bought one for myself and it definitely had both parts in it. Hope that reduces the blood pressure slightly!!! Rich

sounds like theres still air in the master cylinder to me (from experience with other cars! don't let the low post count fool you!) try topping the resevoir up with fluid right to the top (not so it spills over though!) and get your mate to press on the pedal lots of times fast and very firmly. If he's doing it slow the air won't be forced out of the cylinder so it cant prime itself. Also worth checking the car is on level ground and not jacked up as otherwise rear compensators can close, not allowing fluid through to them. Hope that helps Rich