Edition 1

PM sent :wink:

Find a spare one , send it to me and I'll do one :wink:

Lookin good , Got any better pics shaun ? :wink:

At the moment , I've done a prototype duct for the Rado that sits in the 90mm spoiler to vent the air into the engine bay, I'll post up some pics when its done . Cheers

I will gladly do a group buy with a decent CF discount for these , any idea on numbers ? Cheers Steve

Pics Any questions give me a shout.

The Corrado heat shields have (finally) arrived for our G60 Twin Cone Induction Kit , these are laser cut alloy and specific to the G60 Corrado :wink: Cheers

This is not an issue, we have experieced no turbulence issues with this set up, the air box lid we supply has a much larger capacity compared with the std lid to compensate for the second outlet. Lotus also used a twin feed air box design on the Lotus Carlton when in production.

Like this ? The filters used in the twin cone set up are genuine K&N items in a specific size which were inported from the States, these are manufactured from the same material as the K&N panel filter upgrade that most of you guys tend to run, so filtration is not an issue. The issue you refer to happens with FOAM filters not cotton gauze filters like the ones used here. The twin Inlet set up is available in two styles the first being an O.E style air box design (seen above) for people who want to keep the engine bay looking relatively standard and the second option is our twin cone design kit which looks a little more purposeful ! Both designs will give 6-7 bhp (prob more with mods) over the standard G60 induction set up (tested on my ed1 G60, ) with a similar gain in torque, throttle response throughout the rev range is also improved. 8)

Unfortunately I think the 50mm spoiler will be too small to get a vent in.

Well the front spoiler duct will be symetrical but I'm not sure on getting the air pipe into the engine bay on that side, any thoughts ?

Working on a cold air feed for the Corrado engine bay at the moment (been delayed because of the scuttle panel GB) which will be similar to the one we do for the Mk2 Golf. The pic below shows the Golf version, the Corrado set up will have a duct that will fit into the 90mm front spoiler on the driverside and then vent air into the engine bay via the carbon canister hole in the front chassis leg. In this pic you can just see the top part of the vent located where the carbon canister was fitted. Steve

Just putting the finishing touches to the Corrado heat shield design and then these beauties will be available for sale. Any questions drop me a PM. :wink: http://www.swgmotorsport.com Cheers Steve

This is a quote from Beavis over on the Dubforce forum, hope it sheds some light on the subject ! - The beloved MAP sensor issue. Good old Mr Bosch was far too through with his fail safes when he designed the Digifant system. The failsafe are all well and good on a standard car but unfortunately bite back when we tune the cars by throwing a spanner in the works. The original 200kpa map sensor found in most Digifant ECU's is a 200kpa absolute sensor which means it has a 2 bar pressure scale, 1 bar of the scale is atmospheric pressure, so a 2 bar absolute sensor will only be capable of effectively measuring 1 bar of positive pressure and 1 bar of vacuum. Inside the map sensor chamber is a small silicone chip that flexes a given amount when boost/vacuum enters the map sensor chamber. The resistance of the chip changes as the chip flexes which alters the voltage of the output signal which is roughly 1-5V. The part ECU processor determines which points of the main fuelling map are to be accessed by using signals from the engine senders. The hall sender relays information in the form of a pip signal from which the processor can calculate RPM and the voltage of the map sensor dictates the other axis. A map sensor at atmospheric pressure will produce a signal of around 2.5V, on vacuum overrun just under a volt and at 1 bar 5 volts. On various cars I’ve mapped they either play ball and do not bleed off at all and you can successfully map them, others are a pig and bleed off very early. The values of any parts of the map do not alter this bleed point unless the car pinks and then the ecu will detect this and knock the timing back until the pinking stops. The voltage of the maps sensor e.g. 5 volts kicks the bleed cycle off along with ignition retard. By swapping the map sensor to a 2.5 bar sensor it allows you to change the threshold of the point where the ECU will bleed. One bar of boost applied to a 250kpa sensor will only hit say 3 volts, hence the bleed cycle is not triggered until later. Swapping the map sensor for a different pressure does mean you encounter other issues. The Processor is seeing 3volts at 1 bar for arguments sake, this means that is referencing its 3volt value, which would equate to say 0.6 bar, so will only fuel for 0.6 bar of boost from the value of the original map.. 0.6 bars worth of fuel with 1 bar of air will mean the car is running lean.. Then it pinks and the bleed cycle is off again. Once the maps sensor is fitted I have to change the values of the whole map to compensate for the different scale, so the at the 3volt reference point the value has to be similar to that of the old 5volt reference point. The moral of the story.. If you only swap the map sensor and you run the original map you will soon have a hole in your piston. The other way of looking at it is reducing the manifold pressure by changing components of the engine to allow it to flow. Manifold pressure is a measure of the pressure backed up and not the pressure in the cylinders where it is doing its job. Fitting a higher lift/longer duration cam combined with a flowed head will see a drop in manifold pressure. The same priciple applies though regarding the map. You have now got more air in the cylinders for combustion, but the ECU is seeing 3 rather than 5 volts.. But the 5 volt fuel is still required so the index points need to be altered accordingly. Better to know than stabbing in the dark :wink:

Bringing a few of these early vent pods to E38 if anyones interested :wink:

The heat shields are done for the Mk2 Golf's but I need to check to see how the shield will fit into the Corrado engine bay before I will send any out. I've got a sneaking suspicion it will need a newly designed shield tho :mad:

I've got a late dash, the car's up at RKE at the moment so get John to take it out for you? I could also get hold of a LHD early vent for you , but it would need to be sent down etc, let me know if you're stuck for one. Thanks Walesy, the problem is I need to butcher the vent (and it won't be much use after :) ) so I don't really want a vent that someone needs back. A spare that someones got kickin around would be ideal. Cheers

Your absolutely right. :( I was so excited to see the part, I completely overlooked the right hand drive part! :lol: So what are the chances of coming out for a 93+ left hand drive version? :cry: Guys , these are only available for the early right-hand drive Rado at the moment. (which is ideal for a G60 boost gauge etc). 8) I need to get hold of a late spec right-hand drive air vent pod :wink: to cater for the late model, anyone got one spare I could use ? ( also any left hooker driverside vents if available). Any help would be much appreciated :D Cheers Steve

Hi , The complete O.E style air box twin inlet kit is £169 + vat but with free delivery (= £198.57 which is the website price). The Twin cone set up is only a few days away (the company making the heat shield is very busy hence the delay), no firm pricing yet on this option but it maybe a little more expensive because of the twin K&N filters used. I'll let you know more info when they are ready. Cheers

As mentioned before the oil fumes from the breather can dilute the grease already in the charger and its also not very good for the apex seals etc, plus the boost return pipe adds unused hot boost air from the TB back into the charger which is not ideal. The twin inlet feeds both sides of the charger with cold clean air which is much more beneficial. :D

The twin cones should be available very soon, I'm just waiting to have the heatsheilds laser cut. Once I've got these I'll post up some more pics and prices. :cheers:

Your twin inlet's lookin sweet mate :D :D

Thanks guys , there's a few more bits and pieces to come :wink:

If you have a car with the boost return already deleted the new set up will give a more distinctive and slightly deeper sound.

The car was tested using the standard air box set up (with boost return deleted) and the original well used K&N panel filter that came with the car, then our twin inlet airbox kit with the same filter, and finally with twin cones. The air box base has the snorkel removed and 2 x 2" holes drilled in the lower wing side of the box. An SWG cold air feed duct and 3"piping is used from the back of the original mk2 spoiler (Corrado version coming soon !) but is not routed directly into the box but to another duct where the carbon canister used to be, this adds cold air to the engine bay but also avoids over pressurising the air box at higher speeds.