GazzaG60

1. pipe has to be 1m long. no brakes. you will see this when you remove it. dont fit a boost gauge here either. 2&3. go to VW ask for the specified braided out hose. it will have the correct expansion properties expected by the system. G60 ECU is particularly funny about havin the correct hose and length.

id like to see it stickied on the front page as a message to scammers if the owners are ok with that and its possible. too many friends and fellow formum members have been subject to scammers selling stuff that is hot property thats doesn't exist. im not saying this guy is a scammer. he may be a kid dreaming but even so protection of members has to be at the forefront of any internet community.

depends if he/she then goes on to try to sell the car or parts from it. laying the trap i call it.

Boys. As an owner of both and a member of both i must say i didn't expect this from a CF member. Andy and other mods - these types should not be allowed to frequent boards as they are obviously out to con others. on a note of good and bad. both are good cars. each with better attributes in other areas. must say i have looked at my corrado, which is not too happy with woman drivers and thought about arch implants

S2 rods are really no better than a kr rod. basically the same thing. s2 pistons good for a fair bit of power on a s2 with proper rods so same must apply to 16v. personnal id stop messing with 2nd hand rods and pistons where you really need new rings and a hone to seat properly minimum. the extra is only a small amout to forged slugs and scats

PG and 9a head will give around 6.5:1 compression. remember with a valve the combustion chamber is in the head and not the piston so add a piston chamber to a head chamber = very low compression

things to do are bleed um brakes too. bleed again using a power bleed. if this fails replace slave then if its still fucked replace master. heres a test. hold down pedal and engage gear. hold pedal for a minute or 2. if the car starts to grumble and pull forward or stall its cos the fluid is passing the seals in one of the cylinders. best to replace both as it saves a job and the new one is opften too strong for the other old one.

personally i prefer my corrado seats. the S2 ones are too flat. im gonna change mine too. the driving position is higher with a better view as the pillars are thinner. the shell is more flexy on the s2 also especially towards the rear. in the wet these cars are great. in the dry they feel a bit heavy. i like those rims. im running bbs RSII 2 piece on mine. she's standard at the moment though. await my porsche GT2 6 pots to start on the slipery slope.

never used one and probly wouldn't as the stacked gasket approach is tried and tested, gaskets are easy to get hold of etc.

i must say it felt lioke the rug got pulled from uner my feet, hence the sig line. for 300 id use a 9a with stacked gaskets and arp UNDERCUT head studs. rods should be ok as they are. i used some ford 289 bolts in my standard rods cos i planned to rev to 7500. then i decided its not worth the risk for 200 quid so i bought the scats. for gaskets id use 2 abf with maybe the inner level of a 3rd abf gasket. depends whether your happy to chance things or not. i wanted to d oone build and tune it then just be able to twist the bost nob knowing well that id mapped it for 2 bar boost already. for reference on my mates who is gonig for 300 to start we are gonna use bits of his with my parts too. ABF ABF cams 2-3 gaskets arp studs boostfactory snake t3 based turbo may lend the sc61 to him. 3" system megasquirt home made inlet. big plenum, velocity stacks vr throttle body front mount 02m box dutchdub mount transporter inner cvs or 02m with modded shafts 550cc injectors 1.8t fuel rail spec stage 3+ alloy flywheel and 6 puck clutch gonna run 1 bar boost on the stacked gaskets and expect around 350hp.

my corrado got written off a few weeks ago. i was not too far off completion, bout 1 month. and getting ready to install. ive since bought an N plate S2. i thought about another corrado but by the time id have fitted a diff to the 02m and had the head done to race spec id have been on more than s2 money with the usual corrado/fwd issues. still love my Cs though which is why i still come here, also more willing to share what i learned sooner as im not doing mine. my mate has taken quite a few of the bits i had ready for his abf mk3. we plan to build that this summer. hes going for 300 to start. i expect he wont be happy with that as his old subaru was around the 400 mark and the one we are building at present for an old customer of his should make 600. i still have some parts, mainly engines and boxes, cylinder heads etc. i have a built block (9a) and a head to match with 2 ex cams in still around somewhere. ive sold most of my other stuff though. 9a pistons are good for 350-400. 350 easy. rods too. its all in a good tune to be honest to keep even built blocks alive i paid £950 dollars for turbo wastegate, proper exhaust manifold, injectors, hoses for oil feeds and pistons. rods cost me £200. the pistons were £260. thats scats and wisecos block cost around 700 quid to complete including shells, oil pump, water pump, crank polished, individual bores to match piston size exactly and sleeve of cyl 1

id use it to prop the garage door open. what do you call mild boost. see a 3082 will make 350hp ish at 1 bar whereas a k24 may never make that and may only make 260ish at 1 bar. for me mild is upto a bar where stacked gaskets and digi 1 can be used effectively. as you see 1 bar isnt 1bar. character wise you may see a torque spike at around 3k on the k24. this will cause wheelspin and maybe break the box. the bigger turbo will have a more gradual build of torque and so spikes are far less common. this helps keep gearboxes together. the other angle is heat. a k24 at 1bar or more will be far hotter than a bigger unit as it is less efficient as it has to stack more air. this means a bigger cooler is needed which will have a greater pressure drop in general. its all about balance and trade-off. the last point is futureproofing. the bigger unit will flow 600hp so if your build is good you cvan just wind up the boost and tune for it. with a kkk you would need a turbo, manifold and exhaust mods minimum to bolt up a garret. kkk=throw away.

the 8v is poo for performance. end of story. itll last yes, tried tested proven many times over. once over the 200hp mark its a very steep hill. the ABF has far more potential than a G60. look at the facts and performance gains. no G60 ever made 500wheel. a well built abf with a good turbo has a fine change of making 500 wheel. a good abf T will do 30mpg no worries off boost. NA cars tend to be more fuel hungry at these higher powers around 200 crank. my 2.2 5cyl T can manage 25 and thats dragging the 4wd around. on boost as low as 6 i built my 16vt engine got the box, the turbo did the wiring etc whilst runnig the G60 about. i was looking at a week to fit it with the 6 speed and do all the wiring. maybe into week 2 for the engineers report and new ticket.

mfa port for sure. or top of filter housing with a t-piece. as for oil coolers, id get a mocal unit, tried and tested. the s2 stuff is ok but i d make up my own so piping is better. the s2 is very similar to the kr. the oil system is basically the same for 1.8 and 2l. the S2 engine is lovely by the way, the turbo is crap, way too small but the engine is smoother than most ive driven before and low end is far better than any vw ive driven. cant help but think what my 16vt would have been like. use a 2l block if you can. the rods are stronger for starters and the extra bore helps. you can only bore a 1.8 so far until you upset the oil squirters.

they custom made my G60 system about 5 years ago. i know they made henny's too. they used to produce the systems that my mates old company did for subarus. made 4o oddhp with no other mods over a standard subaru and thats only 2.5" id suggest a 3" downpipe and straight thru id you can otherwise 2.5 from the downpipe back. not as much gas speed in the rest of the system to disperse so 2.5 is up to it especially if you run open wastegate. only downside is they down do 3inch as far as im aware.

jp exhausts in mac can but its a fair drive for you

the question was why dont people use corrados as track cars not whats the best which is what you have presented, which i would't agree with either. show me a proper race car for 5k also i could easily show you half a dozen 350hp subarus for 5 k a piece. i was at jabbasport many moons ago with my G60 when they were building the red mk1 for the reeves. it cost a ton more than 5k thats for sure.

dont buy as kit. put the kit together yourself. youll get better bits at a cheaper cost. i am yet to see a kit that just bolts on and fits. you need turbo manifold wastegate reduced compression ideally a short runner inlet but not essential. something to tune it with (properly) THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF ALL exhaust inercooler. ideals wideband boost gauge EGT gauge oil pressure gauge. TUT_gareth - get the bits from GSF or ECP. make sure you get 4 piece thrusts for the crank. headbolts need replacing with ARP undercut studs (summit racing). on standard rods use arp ford 289 bolts (std) they fit fine and are half the cost. if the pistons are bigger you need a bore and hone. take the pistons along to the shop with you and each bore should be done to match each piston. for your parts speak to paul at the boostfactory. he will give you the best advice and the best prices.

id say too heavy, too costly on parts are good reasons but the fact you can get a scoobie for 2-3k thats pretty ok has some impact i feel. ive spoken to a few mk1 traqck car users who were interested to hear what a scoobie could be tuned for/into for no a lot. if i was on a track car budget of under 5k id pick the sub over a vw any day. an n plate subaru with a FMIC will make 360hp with a good tune. 3k car plus 1-2k for bits n bobs. (system, filter, LINKECU)

how bout just a turbo. keep it simple and cheap. the ony cred from 2charge is pub cred. stick a gt3082 on there or a cheaper t3/t04e 57. let me know what parts you require i may have them left from my 16vt project but im currently helping a mate do an abf job at present so lots of buts are gone.

i run disconnected for years until i went red tops then it run like ass with it unplugged - far to rich. 99.99999999999999999999% of 02 issues are bad wiring and primariy earths. check the engine mounts too

its a better motor than the G60. just needs a blower. the 8v is about as poor a motor as vw produce.

id get a G60 box. the abf one is pants and its not as good for extra power. when looking to build a bespoke engine there isn't many for sures in the equation other than youll spend more than you expected.

if you got doubts on that many things then you shuldn't be doing it. not trying to sound harsh but thats how it is. you need to research. try club GTi and other sources. look for aba turbo/16v in america. an abf is just that. to answers a few 1. it fits 2. need a uppy bonnet for good clearance. 3. use megasquirt. std kjet is past it and abf digi 3 is not too good. 4. yes 5. yes 6. different. 7-12 research, then ask again.

Tein do these kits for there setups. my mate installed one on a subaru a while back.