GazzaG60

id fit the 16v one in-line using the std G60 in tank. used by many in the US for 350-400hp if you want to save a few quid. otherwise an uprated in-tank like kev suggests. cant see that being the issue though. what does the datalog show around the points of the issue.

sounds like maybe you need the timing trough in the map tweakling slightly to make it catch Sam. could be one of many things though not sure if you mapped it yourself or not sam but with this type of setup sometimes its best to have a high timing level in the rpm row below where you want it to idle. and slightly higher after. creating the trough for idle to sit in so to speak. as for turbos, ihi or t3/to4e 57 trim will meet your goals with ease.lots of choice in that area though.

it can be a good idea to check the head is striaght and not warped on the mating surface before you refit unless you are sure. the headbolts should be changed but on a tight budget you could torque um down to FT. if you plan on replacement then it maybe worth fitting ARP's as you can re-use um. id pay careful attention to the inlet bolts and any other hex key bolt for that matter. may be worth replacing them anyway.

if its the HG then its better than the rings. ringsa would mean a hone and new rings basically a bottom end build. not too sure on HG on VR but it cant be much different to a 4 pot. probly just a bit more dollar. Louie - 500 seesm a bit steep to fit a HG to a valve. but if thats with a new cam belt etc then maybe ok.

hi mate. welcome the one thing to be sure of is a recent service. Darren@gwerks is the favourite. jabba were the past masters but seem to have let work slip on G60. ask for a certificate to show rebuild times or if not then after you have bought then send it in for a check over and build if needed. the rest is 8v GTi really. so expect valve stem seals and broken water flanges. G60's kill engine monuts too so it may be worth budgeting a solid front monut in. my personal opinion on performance is on a good charger a 65mm pulley, chip and maybe bigger injectors with a front mount and a decent exhaust will give you what you need for bout 500 quid. the next 2-3k will get aboout 50hp.

your right RP, think you have seen the good side of the sub already. they aint as bad a build as most say. they dont clunk like a VW but i think more or less every othe rbit is better designed even if the materials are not as good. for good reliability get a UK car. the mapping in japan if for 100+RON and different humidity. i think ive seen about 20-30 imports with blown engines.

no problem RP. if you want a contact then let me know. as it happens we are gonna try to start the last project of my mates. a race spec 2.35 impreza engine with custom cams and a t04R turbo. going for over 600hp when fully tuned.

there are reason we all have corrados. subarus are great cars for power and handling but are built not too well. does that matter when you are smoking the next man? to some yes. others not. the stigma attached which has been evident here is one reason why most of my mates have left subarus as personal cars behind. yes they miss them but they are moving on so to speak. one of the guys had 2 scoobies. both 350hp plus and now runs a mk2 16v. says he doesn't miss the impreza at all. i know i have a corrado for the little extra luxury that the impreza doesn't, for the MPG also. given the choice of weapon for a sunday blast over the pennines and the subaru would be the one. its just better at those things.

show me where you can take a corrado to 350hp for a grand.

they dont fall apart after 10k mate somebody lied there. the EJ 20 is a good engine. the issues are that you need it out of the car to do a lot of jobs. think beetle engine. shells for instance mean a full build and the materials used in the engine are not up to vw standards. the turbo on a bug eye is a td04. good for 280hp. a swap to a td05 or ihi will give upto 360hp or so. you need a FCD, AFR and boost controller along with FMIC and straight thru exhaust for 340-360hp. it will last if you look after her. garages are often scared of subaru's but they aint that dificult to work on. cam belts need to be fitted by reputable people as the pulleys on one side need to be tension loaded before the belt goes on. id say they are about the same as a corrado to run but to mod they cost more. having said that they are in another league to corrado handling and performace wise. you may stick with one in a straight line but with 350+hp and a great chassis they still fill you with confidence even at that power. personnal if you want a subaru id spend a tad more on the STi. money is in the running gear etc. the 6 speed is a great box and the bigger brakes are needed. i feel a standard subaru engine is good for 400hp and 350 no issues. ripping the gearbox (5 speed) up with a small turbo ihi/td05 and 1.5bar is not uncommon.

not had a problem yet though. i rev to 6200 and no more. thats the comfort zone. thing is a std head only flows to 5500 or so anyway so revving it is a waste of time anyway. i serviced DIY last time and would again. thats the crap part of a G60 - the charger.

i love the 65mm and would go 62. think it boosts a standard engine great. G60 responds well to boost.

kjet has plenty of flow. enough for 360lbs ft so im told and thats the golf ones. the 044 aftermarket is "the" pump from all accounts. used in the jap and euro world. heard good and bad things bout the SX stuff. been told you need 2 real expensive filters pre and post plus surge to make it work. i like the look of the in-tank pump bracket that scott f williams (USRT) in america produced. not sure if its in production or not but it mounted 2 or 3 normal pumps on the bracket. all a bit much for the requirements of a G60 which is what we are really talking about but at over 500hp its more like the real stuff. there are other options like those power increasing devices that make the pump work harder but id expect thatll make it fail sooner too.

no offence taken. your comments make a lot more sense now foillowing this post. i tend to try not to upset people if i can as most forum stuff is opinion based anyway. you can fit the best pump in the world but if it isn't in the juice then it aint gonna work. gotta take care to get the pump at the same height as the original. to summerise any pump will work that fits in the tank and feed enough juice. i have tested the subaru ones so i can comment on that one. kevs tried walbro now runs sytec my mates used sytec on subarus upto 1.7bar on a td05 (part of their upgrade kit type thing) i am going a differnet route where im gonna run a second pump in line near the fuel filter for the 16vt. i got a holley as previously mentioned. with the G60 pump or subaru pump feeding the holley i should be ok. one q that does arrise is how does the std pump feed enough to keep the in-line happy? well it creates a vacum of some sort between the pumps increasing the flow of the in-tank std pump. if this doesn't suffice the a surge tank id needed. this is fed by the std pump which in turn feeds the in-line(one wayof doing it) and holds enough juice to support a full WOT run

tis each to their own. i agree there but theres no need to throw words like Chavvy and bodge into every post you disagree with either kev. i wouldn't use one on a VRT either, probly 2 would be needed. fact is most factory pumps are made better than aftermarket ones. i aint doubting the sytec (walbro made i think) pump. these are what was used to replace the standard pumps. You dont need to use cable ties, use metal snap straps or make it fit the housing. your call.

well we all know your way is the right way dont we kev. these things work. pretty simple. if you wanna spend 10x the money on the same thing thats fine, im just trying to help for NO PROFIT. this cash goes to my mate and not me. if necessary i can probly get photos of a fitted pump. its been in the golf for 2 yrs now so will give a good indication of condition of a "Bodge" after 2 yrs as our well off moderator calls it. to those who want one. it will be weekend when i can dispatch them.

cheers for the confidence vote kev. ive seen more cars with over 350hp on this type of "bodge" as you call it than you could imagine mate!

Hi yes just replace the pump in the housing. remove old. fit new, wire up wrap with 2 cable ties. ensure filter sits in same spot. looks just like a walbro. pumps are made by denso IIRC there are slight differences in models. all the ones i have are at least uk turbo pumps, some sti some wrx. the sport impreza's engine is not as strong a the fuel pump really so... some are slightly bigger than others but i cant see any of them not fitting. i was told that the std G60 pump was good for upto and around 200hp. when i had sns do a stg 5 for mine years ago they said it looked like i had a particularly good pump so i never changed mine. plenty of them about just sat in a box. let me know if i can help. im thinknig of running 1 in tank and i have a Holley in-line FI pump as well. my pump has done 150k and most subarus only manage 60-80k on an engine/life so the pumps should be good.

subaru pumps look just like the vw ones slightly different shape. what i have done is remove the old pump and strap the sub one to the hanger in the same spot and solder the wires to fit. works fine and flows more fuel. next best alternative is a walbro 255 for around 80 quid. they look like walbro mike. they are what my mates used to use to upgrade subarus. they used the 400hp pump which IIRC is a 255. the walbros are a tad noisy. if you want a high quality good flow pump then a bosch 044 is the one. or get a vw kjet pump. kjet pumps are good for 350lbs ft so im told.

fit any electronic pump that is capable. for a modder personnally id fit a subaru turbo pump good for 300hp. i can get you one for 15 quid posted if you want one. PM me. my mate has a dozen or so from when thye have fitted uprated pumps for 350+hp subarus already done on a couple of digifant golfs with sucess.

what do you want to weld? ali, steel what thickness? i have little experience but if its ali then id go tig. thin ally is difficult to mig from experience of my inlet. thinner wire and ultra clean gas was my issue. warming the metal also helps. my mate has done most of mine for me. ill ask him what steel ones he uses and get back to you. we have made a couple of downpipes before one with wastegate dump, the other without. one stainless the other mild. no issues here

use summit racing. i got 2 rolls of 50 ft x 2 in for about 65 quid. its about 50 for one 1 inch roll from demonthieves get some wrap spray too.

i think the length of the runner must reduce low end torque somewhat. anybody know the optimum length for VR runners? must be a science wizz somewhere. a general rule is try to make the plenum at least the same capacity as the engine.

who said they are less efficient? thought that one had been covered in proevious threads.

83 give good wall thickness to give some protection for higher boost. in not sure if on a kr this removes the oil squirters though which i would not do for FI. on the head issues. im not sure if the cnc head would be good value on a G60 16v as the charger can only do so much anyway. standard 16v head will support 300wheel so.... why not save the block costs and run stacked gaskets. fine on G60 boost. keith mac runs like this im sure.