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8vtornado

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Posts posted by 8vtornado

  1. Posted

    yea ive checked earths and lives going to the pod, and i agree, thats the first thing i thought, a common earth/ live as they all went at once, but nothing seems to be wrong there. it must be some common component/ wire in the printed circuit inside. but what would cause it to just GO like that?! its rele confusing!!! wot u mean by earth blocks tho?

  2. Posted

    thats all well and good if i HAD the rev counter!!!! i know the revs/speed ratio (its diff from my g60 to ur 16v :p)

     

    its a real bummer, any for sale on ebay etc are far too expensive and have like 145000+ miles, far too much for me!

     

    i first thought speedo sensor but that wudnt affect the rev counter and odo i wouldnt have thought... ill have to somehow check the input from it, ill have to check voltage with teh car in gear on a ramp. ill let u know how that goes, but first im gonna pop into vw 2moro as i have a mate in there taht wont charge me for help (hopefully!!)

     

    as for the lives n earths, with the instrument cluster removed and the multiplug removed, i stuck pins into the corresponding terminals and stuck a multimeter on them (multimeter leads dont fit into them!) it has the pin no.s written on the plug itself (small) sud be 1 at the top left, 28 at the bottom right. pin 3 and 5 are earths, pin 11 is an ignition live(i think) and pin 13 is a constant live (they may be the other way round but ull soon see)

     

    im lucky i have another car to drive but i want my g60, a 1.6 fiesta is nowhere near powerful enough!!!! blooody old cars. :(

     

    good luck.

  3. Posted

    i just pulled into a carpark the other night to meet a friend to go out driving when everything on my insturment cluster died except the fuel gauge and coolant temp. the lights are still on but i have no odo, speedo, rev counter etc, driving without a speedo is sscarey!!! its the fully electric type on a 92 g60, anyway i checked all fuses (even tho none of them seem to be to do with that) and checked the wiring goin into the back of the clocks, i have an earth at pin3 as expected, a constant live at pin11 and an ignition live at pin13 all as expected. does this just leave the pod itself?

     

    if so, i really want to keep the original mileage on it as its fairly low, if i replace the pod wot can i do about this? or can the pod i have be repaired? any ideas would be appreciated.

     

    (p.s. mods- i dont know if this post is in the right area so feel free to move it)

  4. Posted

    lol good! i changed the timing belt n tensioner on minea while back and it is awkward when u put it back thinkin "is that tight enough?" glad u sorted it. im on a mission to sort out my abs, brakes and suspension at the mo, the standard stuff (specially 15 yrs oold) aint much cop at the mo!!

  10. Posted

    iv noticed my driveshaft damper on the o/s has perished and the outer has detached from the inner causing it to flop around and make occasional noise. my question is this; can you get a new one or do you have to get a new driveshaft? and where can i get a new driveshaft complete with damper from? and come to think of it, do i even need it? thanks

  13. Posted

    itll probably most likely be the alternator as that gets alot stiffer when the electricity is passing thru it, but normally its stuggling for a reason, youd probably notice a battery light on or summin. a new tensioner definately shouldnt be seizing mate. good luck with that anyway.

  14. Posted

    LOL cruel!! ive decided ill leave it now. iv had the head off before and i left the manifoolds on cos i realised they were almost impossible to remove in situe! reaching over the front of the car and lifting the head with manifolds attached off carefully takes some doing too tho!! thanks for the input guys

  15. Posted

    never put stands on the sills, put them on either the chassis rails, or i tend to put them on the front subframe towards teh back of the engine, and at the rear i stick them on the rear axle. take it from me, im a mechanic!

     

    as for the problem, its a real bummer, ended up reading this thread more or less the whoole way thru (i got bored at work!) like the others said, sounds like theres a backfire coming back up into the inlet, does the inlet get particularly hot? wot cam are you running? it sounds fuel related tho, theres nothing that can now be wrong wtih teh head/block unless swarf was left in there somewhere. the sound on ur vid (sneezing) sounds like its caused by the missfire in the inlet raising pressure and then blowing out thru the isv (like overboost). have you tried different injectors in it (even if theyre standard ones still) and a standard cam (if urs is different)

     

    another thought that just occured is a sticky valve lifter occasionally holding the inlet valve open very slightly intermitantly, causing all the pressure to go back into the inlet. did you have new lifters wen you had the head work done? im just babbling now, hope this may spur u on a bit.

  17. Posted

    can you actually do the rear mount with the engine in?! the front mount must be a bit of a pain cos theres not much room in a g60 bay. i spose that is alot of work for no reason! i think ill leave it! just rele want me block to be painted cos the rest of my engine is rele clean now :D

  18. Posted

    the thing is, my engine works fine, but i may have the chance at work to whip the engine out and do woteva work at the same time, i cud change all teh engine mounts, paint the block with sum black paint (hopefully), clean up the bay a little and have a go at getting rid of the carbon canister at the same time, my questions are as follows; should i do it? is the g60 particularly awkward to whip the engine out of? with old engines is it likely something will stop working if i do this? and lastly, i was thinkin of whipping it out through the front, is this the easiest way?

     

    thanks

  20. Posted

    ive had the engine in bits and its in far too good condition to have been clocked i would have thought, and i have full service history on it and it all adds up. its just strange, its as if there is not enough power from the battery when starting with the lights n stereo on so the mfa acts as if its had the battery disconnected. its all been fine the rest of the time.

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