ivor Fastun

Isn't your insurance null and void?[/quote:2d9o8mn8] apparently not fully, i will just have to see. It would be the first bit of good luck ive had in a while..

Honestly, yes totally, i guess i can slightly blame the fact i let things get behind (ie MOT) and the insurance is prob a chip on my shoulder from when me last car was nicked and they insurance guys gave me £300 for a car i had insured and valued at £2000.. In my head i knew i was in the wrong but i only had a little time to go til my 3 years NCb would kick in and then it would be affordable. All in hinsight now. I hope someone might learn from my bad fortune. I certainly have a lot to regret. I have some interesting updates tho.. firstly whoever said it was the fuse HIT THE NAIL SMACK BANG ON THE HEAD!!! The fuse was removed but the short was caused by the terminal blocks inside moving close enough to either touch or spark. Either way that is a really really bad flaw in the design! Im wondering if i have any chance of suing them, the previous owner is not at fault and gladly nor am i. i was a ticking time bomb! why why why didnt i check it or disconnect it from the battery! Good news tho, i can claim without an MOT although i wont get a full payout, I guess this might change according to your insurer, i might be lucky. Secondly the scrappies have said i can swap anything off the car. Im going to take the air induction kit off and the alloys. Since the mods didnt effect the outcome it wont effect the insurers but i want to make sure. Plus a mate wants the alloys. Does anyone in the west yorkshire area have some original alloys to sell for cheap? Also what VW air box will fit a corrado as i know i wont get a genuine one in time. Realistaically i think ill prob only get to swap the air box but itl help. And finally, since last week i have passed two C's in hudderfield. One nice red one and that notoriously good yellow one which i saw today. I have now made a pact, i will get another C! not yet and not for a while but im going to do it! I frickin love these cars and they look the bomb! A real timeless design. mean as f*ck Cheers, and thanks for your comments.

Sorry, I completely sympathise but the above comment really made me :lol: Sounds like a :pale: situation :sad: lol i think im going to need a hell of a lot of parts to get it MOT'd now! Re: Adz the Rat, yep ive got no excuse except nievety. I def should know better as my last car got nicked. I simply couldnt afford to insure it if i declared everything. I guess that back fired big time. The MOT was just disorganised of me, i know itt wouldnt pass, i've got most of the parts sat in my garage waiting to be used! just needed to get hold of a cat converter. Re:kipVr the fuse was stuck to the tank not screwed. so he wernt a numpty. Sadly i took the fuse apart and you coulnt see inside, the breaker guy did suggest it was a bolt tho. Its looking more likely. Ill def double check.

Heys, i've been a lurker on these forums for a while now and have found them a really useful and helpful place. So thank you to anyone who has replied to my posts and answered my questions. Hopefully i can count on you for one last time? I'm absolutely gutted and have has the worst string of luck possible... I've owned my C for over a year now, it was bought from a forum member and it was very well maintained! Then the heater matrix split and i had the dredded steam! I stripped the entire dashboard and furniture to replace the matrix and then refitted it all with upgraded experimental sound proofing (do a search for flashing tape lol). I was very happy the results and gave myself a big pat on the back! and then traveling on the m1 at approx 70mph my eyebrow spolier decided to split in half and throw the left side into the windscreen.. bummer! Had to put the old grill back on... least it wernt a brick! ..and then last weekend in a light shower my driverside wiper just sheared off! sooo very random, it split at a 'strong' point? metal fatigue? i just dont know! Corrado92.pdfsnap.jpg[/attachment:se1aayw9] and then last night i popped to my mates, had a blast on pro ev, then popped into the local for a couple of jars and then popped my mate home and then i set off for home... and my car filled with smoke! I stopped, turned it off, threw open the bonnet to instantly spot a glowing red cable near the passenger bulkhead. I then ran to the passenger side (recognising it to be the sub power lead) open the door to find the entire left sill to be burning! i put it out with the t-shirt off my back and then took the back seat off to see the whole boot on fire! and the passenger rear quarter panel! 30 seconds later the whole car was alight! all i could do was watch! passat climatronic wiring diags.pdffire.jpg[/attachment:se1aayw9] I am soooo unbelievable gutted! Even the firemen who put it out, the cops who questioned me, the garage who recovered it all said it was a real beautiful rare car! :brickwall: I just don't understand what happened, i know for a fact it was the power lead, i saw it there when i replaced all the carpets. I left it there as i thought it was safe, the ends were left bare by the previous owner so i assumed the fuse was removed. I never checked! Even if it wasnt surely it would burn out straight away?? My best guess is it randomly made contact with the chassis and shorted! It took a year to do it!!! climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfleft.jpg[/attachment:se1aayw9] back.jpg[/attachment:se1aayw9] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfthe-fuse.jpg[/attachment:se1aayw9] checkout the last pic, you can see the cable before the fuse has got very hot but not after? how the hell did that happen? If only i had a C02 extingusher or a kill switch :( now i've left myself in a right pickle, the MOT has ran out and i need to get a few things to make it pass ie cat for the exhaust, rear number plate lights, new wiper etc etc so it's now a month out of date. PLus there is the fact i lied about having alloys and a cold air induction kit when i insured it. The grease monkeys recon i should just pay them the recovery fees and forget about claiming as im only 1/3 party fire and theft and have invalidated my insurance. by the time i loose the case, the bill from them for recovering and storing would be much higher so i should pay it now and get rid! I don't know what to do! i feel like im mourning a family member! Do you think there is much scrap value in the car, the engine is fine except for a slightly melted top cover? Could any please advise me for this one last time lol! Cheers guys! (look after your C's get a C02 extiguisher!

I've got a set of custom floor mats from old fleebay which i was very happy with.. until after around a year they have started curling up around the edges. It seems they have just molded to the floor and moved around. The problem now is that they interfere with the accelerator pedal, not really a prob but i occasionally have to reach down to straighten them. Does anyone know of any way of fixing them in position?

i was thinking of doing this too, i know you can get 3mm leds which run off 12volts but how would you get by the coloured ring within the switch itself? for example if i wanted to turn my switches blue but there is a green ring inside the switch?

Thanks for the reply, where is it in relation to the footwell? Ive covered my floor completely with sounddendening! I'll need to dig it out lol Can anyone else help with another issue? I got my meters from an audi coupe as many probably have done. I know i need a new pressure sender so i can still use the build in oil pressure light as well as the dial. Can someone tell me which one i need to get as i dont know which pressure range i need to get.. is it ten bar? Also can you use the standard oil temp sender? I can't wait to get them working! Thanks in advance

I recently did the same thing with my C after my heat exchanger split so while I was throwing the old soaking sound proofing away I decided to do the rest. I had a thread on here somewhere but I didn’t get round to updating it. I was surprised by the result as I used the ghetto-style flashing tape! I got two rolls from BnQ for about £20, one wide one and a thin one. Basically it is thick tar layer with a sticky back and an aluminium film on top. It is very similar to the old school sound proofing called brownbread. Essentially it is just the weight of the stuff which makes it a good sound proofing and it has to have an extremely good contact for it to work. It only cuts out road noise and exhaust rumblings so its not sound proofing as such. Leaving gaps is perfectly fine and the job of it is just to dampen the vibrations through the panel/floor. If you want to test it out get a metal sheet and do a rolf harris esk wobble, then stick the stuff on, you should have to work harder to make the same sheet wobble in the same way. Sadly it only reduces the road noise etc so it needs proper sound insulation on top of it just like in the original setup. One tip if you do use flashing tape is heat it up with a hair drying when applying it. This helps it mould to the right shape. I also found scoring the aluminium film helps form it, this doesn’t effect the performance of the stuff . Some mentioned you cant use this on doors, that’s simply cos the stickyness isn’t good enough to use on vertical surfaces. The second thing I used was sound insulaton foam from RS (rswww.com) supplies. You can buy if by the sheet and it too is aluminium coated and stick backed. The only downside is it was 1inch thick. The other possible problems I might face with it is wear, will the foam collapse under constant use and the be useless? The positives are that it wont degrade if it does get wet and shouldn’t absorbe water like the old cotton stuff. It too went on easily and was super sticky, the only problem was carving a shape out the footwells so the crossmembers didn’t make it stick up. Even then it raised the carpet up by half and inch so the wasn’t much room under the seats. The best impovement was from using the foam to cover the boot, the really reduced exhaust noise. The only problem now is sorting out all the rattling! I used 5mm foam tape on all dashboard joints when putting it back together but that did nothing! : ( I can upload some pics if anyone is interested? Its not a difficult job but it takes time as you have to take the full insides out

Hey guys, im finally getting round to fitting my gauges too after builiding them into the dashboard. Whats the best place to feel the wire through to the engine bay? I'm struggling to find a good point!! Ta

that is nutts!

Post matrix replacement im now thinkin about replacing the undercarpet insulation, the re-cycled cotton stuff and sandbags were in no state to re-use. Ive had a look about dynomat and stuff like that, it sounds to me like that works by deadening sound by making a thicker substance to pass through and you would need some insulation to go with it. I stumbled across a thread about this elsewhere and someone recommended using flashing tape instead of dynomat. Its the stuff used to seal flat roofs etc. Tis basically the same stuff, aluminium backed self adhesive bitumen layer, only difference i can see is the price. You can get enough to cover your floor pans for £30 from BnQ! Its only about 2-3mm thick too. Im thinking about using this, then some self adhesive sound insulation foam from http://www.rswww.com £13 psm to redo my floorpans. The foam is high-density, lightweight and aluminum backed too. Has anyone else experimented like this before? There is no way im putting the same stuff back in that i took out, it was dropping to bits!!

Having dug out a pic of the corrado fan resistor pack i can safely say this isnt it!! rheostat.jpg[/attachment:93170] Any guesses what this has been taken from? Do any other VW cars have a four speed resistor pack like the corrado? I might go and raid the breakers at the weeknd!

woowzers! As a non-mechanic with no proper training i can recomment doing the job yourself! I had AC too so it was a full dash out job, just put bits in bags and tape them where they were located on the dash. There is no complex instructions just a simple take apart and then put back together. The only thing id recommend is make sure you take the steering wheel off, you will prob need a tool for this, also i found the bolts through the firewall just spun instead of unscrewing, if it doesnt un-do after much turning cut a slot in the top of the bolt and use a screw driver tp hold it still. Just solving that prob took a day! Total cost was £42 for the matrix! Its go up by about £100 once i install some sound deadening and insulation foam under the carpets!

i think ive discovered the problem... on the thermal fuse, is there supposed to be four contacts or five? Ive been searching ever post for answers and in one someone says the golf only ha three speeds so needed three inputs to the rheostat and one output. If ive somehow got the golf three speed one that explains why the previous owner just spliced in the 4 speed line bypassing the rheostat! Can someone confirm this? a picture of your rheostat would be ace!!! :D

Thanks for the reply, i changed the matrix and i can def say its the same matrix as the standard one. Ive been taking pics so hopefully ill find time to make a guide for the wiki!

Hi, ive just replaced my heater matrix so i can safely say you really dont want to be taking it out! Have you tried removing the heater controls, unclipping the outter casing of the control wires (only the outter casing!) and moving them slightly outwards from their previous location, then clip them back in. This bascially tightens the cable up which do slacken off over the years. I did this months ago when i noticed my footwell vents didnt close properly when i wanted the fan blowing out the dash vents, it did the trick fine, i then had the full fan power out the main vents! Hope this helps

Does anyone know if you can get spares for davia AC units online anywhere?

Hi guys, sadly my heater matrix decided to empty itself allover my luvly new matts! Sadly i think it was my own fault tho, i was just checking levels in the car and overfilled the coolant resivoir, only by half an inch at the most. I then drove 200 miles up north, steam started coming out my vents and the rest is history. I suspect there was a weakness in the Heater matrix and the added pressure from the over filled expansion tank caused it to crack. Having read about it on this forum many times i just got on with the job of changing it. Ive stripped out the full dash (i know you dont have to but since my fan is knackered too i decided it might be best), ive disconnected the matrix and used a small piece of pipe to connect the inlet and outlet to form a loop. Hopefully this will hold while i drive to work and back. Now im a bit stuck, ive got davia AC in my car, does this use the same matrix as the standard car? I also dont want to drop the whole AC unit out so is there any way of just diconnecting the matrix surround from the AC and fan assembly? Ive picked up a new matrix from GSFparts for £42, im chomping at the bit to fit it so any advice would be great! ps i also found the foam of the doors of the heater control has fallen into bits revealing the holes, no-wonder my hot was never really hot and my cold really cold!!

norm turns the AC on, max closed the outside air feed!

Hey guys, i finally got round to taking the car to bits and discovered something a little worrying!2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfwire1.jpg[/attachment:342d1]wire2.jpg[/attachment:342d1] as you can see, the heat was a serious issue! the previous owner has taking the feed from the full 12v fan line and spliced it into a cable which goes from the fan fuse box to the positive terminal of the fan motor. This 12v line should just go directly into the top of the fuse box! I have no idea how or why it still works but it does. That explains the immense heat when the fan is turned on and the melting problem! only problem is i have no idea where to start fixing it. Its davia AC unit so isnt factory. Can someone suggest a solution before i just start taking the fuse box bit appart! Thanks in advance Si

Can anyone suggest anything i could check? I really dont know where to start, it seems too simple a design to go wrong! surely?? Im a wee bit worried, the one thing i can fix is a burnt out car!! :lol:

wots that? am i right in guessin the headlight angle adjustment?

Ive got a blanker in the hole next to the headlight switch but what was meant to go there? I wanted to move the fog lights switch there but its not deep enought, im thinking maybe their is another kind of switch i could convert to fit?

Thanks for the reply, the fuse is the correct 20 amp one but ive only had the car 5 months and when i bought it i replaced many of the fuses as they were the wrong ampage, im worried now somwthing in the blower motor has been shorted and its drawin too much current. Everything works perfectly tho! It is very worrying as im not talking warm the contacts are hot! Can someone please stick their blower on four for a few minutes and confirm the contact plate or arm shouldnt get hot at all? Any idea on a fix please??

I had to fix my heater fan speed knob as the arm had got so hot it melted the plastic, this stopped it from fixin to the plastic part. Now ive fixed it ive noticed the metal parts still get very hot! Is this normal? It works fine but it cant be right!