Tifun

I've sent them a message and have yet to get a response. No one wants to respond which sucks :( I found that Turk makes the bolts, but they are based out of India and I can't find any contact info. I'm thinking of trying to see if maybe OZ uses the same style bolts...I might get lucky. I already know BBS doesn't..they were kind enough to reply the same day....

I may have missed it, but does the spoiler lift up at speeds?????? or is it broke lol

I'm in search of the wheel bolts that are used to put the center in. I broke one and lost another in a 1 year period while I was taking my time polishing the lips and getting the centers powder coated. I have no clue what else I can do Oettinger wont reply to emails and the one U.S. carrier won't help at all. Can anybody help a fellow dubber out? Any leads? Anything I can do to get the wheels on the car would be great. They are 18x8, Pics' for clicks, this is what the wheel looks like....well mine look a lot better lol

I would suggest checking your HAL sensor on the distributer. It will pull timing and cause the car to hesitate and sometimes backfire under certain conditions. But it will feel like the car is missing a good amount of power, like something just isn't right. This had happened to me and mine was just unplugged. Yours might be a different situation though as our SLC's in the states only came with 2.8 :(

I need some new wheels asap lol......Those look good with that lip. Money is the only problem, I've spent it all. Gotta save some more.

Was it the stock bulbs???? That would make life a lot easier. Although I keep thinking about making an LED series and running it at the bottom inside much like the MK5 turn lamps. Also, would anybody by chance have the part number for the french yellow glass things that go in the driving light spot??? Or anyone selling them??????

they are going in the driver light spots. I'm using LED's. I've not started on it yet. I'm basically just going to drill from the back and place them in with silicone. If anybody has any thoughts as to what else I should do, please let me know, I'm all ears 8)

We are lucky here in Indiana, no front plate required, although I did order a euro plate, which Im sure sounds funny to you guys lol it say Mon3y_P1t which will go sideways on the front window, or back.

I used an extra g60 bumper and tried about 10 different welding rods until I found one that bonded strong with the style of plastic. Mine is 100% plastic with some glaze, other then that it was just time spent. Like flusted said, it was a pain in the ass at points but the end results are very pleasing. Side note: Flusted, thanks again for the steering wheel. I'm very happy with it

Well not really lol, just some shaving going on. I shaved the front fogs and turn signals out, also since I have a U.S. spec I had to shave the side markers out as well. If it's not raining tomorrow I will have fresh pics of it on the car in a nice little photo shoot. :lol:

well shes back on the road. I learned a valueable lesson lol. luckily nothing broke or got damaged. below is a pic of my goofy mistake.

I think your right lol. But I only have one car at this time so doing custom work requires me to pull stuff off that still allows me to drive, of course looking at it now, I think this one has limited me

Ok, now my next question is, is the frame rails that stick out, are the threaded or what? I couldn't see any thread, but it could be dropped down a bit. I now wish I would have put those bolts back in, but looking back at the thread I used to pull the bumper off it said it wasn't necessary. I'm going to bump it and request a change to that DIY. I just can't see where those bolts thread into other then the bumper support which is not on the car....or at me house, which makes it even harder to tell how its suppose to go back on....this sucks. I wish no one this kind of luck.

so I pulled off my front bumper because its getting shaved. I've been driving for about a week, now all of a sudden today my subframe dropped on one side and broke my radiator. my question is, the bolts that hold to bumper, are they support bolts. meaning was I suppose to put those back in. mistakes have obviously been made. I just want to figure out what I was neglagent on. any thoughts tips or ideas????

Just to clear things up on the whole boost comparison, I am not looking for advice of F/I or anything to do with F/I. I fully understand the potential. My second car is an HPA 12v VR-T Jetta(Bora to you guys.) Also I'm wanting to do the engine for short tracks, i.e. top of 3rd, to the top of 4th. I will need to be high up in the RPM's the a majority of the time due to the course configuration being as it has more footage of turns then straights. The 1/4 mile is only used for tuning purposes in my book. As to comparing the VR6 to an engine in the M3, I would say that yes, out of the box the VR6 feels unbeatable, but give it about .5 seconds and those dreams are toast. unfortunately our M3's come with different engines, at least my past e36 did hehehe, with a mere 240 at the crank. There are a ton of variables that should be taken into consideration, and I am very well aware of it. The bad thing is that I haven't gotten anywhere with this. So it's back to the drawing board to try and finish formulating my plan of attack for a purpose built car. Thanks for everyones help. I posted some pics for clicks of my Corrado, the Jetta, and my Old ///M3. -Keith

Bildon already has cracked it lol. They just don't want to share it. There are quite a few vr6's past the 225 mark, the only problem is heat, they aren't sleeved properly and the engines are getting hot. Bildon offered to build me something in the $10,000 range, but I want to do it myself as I always have, plus it will be faster and cheaper, also they don't like to share their secrets, which I don't blame them lol. Plus they are about 2-3 months on back log due to this coming racing season. We will be covering their racing year in our magazine. http://www.dmsportmag.com IThe engine I want can be done, with time money and the right parts, I just need to finalize my setup before I start buying parts.

Well, I've owned and built many turbo cars, I have only had one built N/A car and I loved it more then any others, sure the boost is nice, and a lot cheaper, I just plain don't want it. I want the feel and sound of N/A. Also the TQ will not be crap, you must not have ridden in a properly tuned and built N/A engine to say that. 225whp is about 250 at the crank. I don't want 300+ hp it defeats the purpose of what I want and is over powering to the chassis, and to say it's not is a lie. I figured that you guys over there would have some old school setups from back in the day. I know I come across some crazy stuff in the German forums, but I have a hard time translating. Also for the comment about the "WHP" everyone over here uses the same system, so when everyone here compares, it is in fact an accurate representation as to the vehicles power, it's like metric to SAE works for some but not others, your guys system seems off to us .

I'm going to go the N/A route again. Just curious what you guys over there on that side of the world are doing to hit the 225whp mark. There has to be more options then what is available over here in the U.S. Please enlighten me with some proven setups, or guide me to some folks who have them. Thanks a batrillion. -Keith

A Canon Powershot. I used the video mod, it works prety nicely too

SCCA= Sports Car Club of America. I participated in the Solo event, where it is one car at a time. I don't know how well it is known over in Europe, at any rate, here are some of my runs. I took first in my class out of 25 car and third after indexing over 47 cars total. Enjoy :) They are all completely different angles. 1st run. Roof mount http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i108/ ... toX007.flv 2nd run. Driver side rear glass (my fav) http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i108/ ... toX008.flv 3rd run. Passenger door, mid way down http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i108/ ... x003-1.flv

It really isn't that hard to do. You focus, set the exposure time, and hit the button. Oh, and you'll need some way to attach the camrea to the car. I used a cheap suction cup mount and it work rather well. -Keith

Im just picturing the looks on other peoples faces as you were going round in circles in a car park at 2mph with a camera stuck to your car. Nice pics btw. Actually I was approached by a bouncer from accross the way. I was next to a strip club :lol: The guy thought I was taking pictures of the girls walking in and out and the facilty itself. I laughed and showed him what I was doing. He thought they were cool. I guess there's a big issue with creeps following the strippers home. Other then that, I had a few people drive by and slow down and point. one guy pulled in the lot for a second to watch then left. I'm going to do it somewhere else next time [schild=4 fontcolor=000000 shadowcolor=EE82EE shieldshadow=1]fun[/schild]

I'd of thought if you can find a nice smooth piece of tarmac, you'd only need two or three seconds of slow driving to get those sort of effects. Would love to try this sort of thing! Really must pick up a DSLR. Pretty close actually. I used a suction mount and mounted my Cannon DSLR(XTi) with a full battery pack, so the weight was pretty great. I found a smooth parking lot and did the shots in 15second intervals going about 2 mph in circles. This was my first attempt. It was super easy to do actually. I did these pictures by myself. I used the timer for 10 seconds and ran around the car lol to get in it just in time for it to start the picture lol.

Is it me, or it the car they use for the driving a Corrado too????? I think it is.