psykokid

i know this may seem like a shot in the dark, but what shape is the electrical part of your ignition switch in? seen lots of wierd stuff go on because it was on its way out..

bump.. anybody have an idea?

yup, guys here stateside go nuts for them since they only came on very early 92 models. The rest of the VR's all got the standard 2.8 AAA manifold.

the igniton amplifier (ICU/ICM are other names for it) is pictured attached to the same bracket as the knock sensor computer (upper right in the photo)

you can also tell by flipping the manifold over and looking at the part between the throttle body and the main part of the intake runners. The 2.9 has a lager area for airflow vs the 2.8. heres a photo illustrating ABV on the left and AAA on the right

here in the us we are stuck with 2 types of radiators in MK2 cars, the g-60/VR type which has both the inlet and outlet on the same side of the bay (transmission side) and the 16v/8v type which has both the inlet and outlet on the timing belt side of the motor. Does anyone know of a VAG radiator that will fit in MK2 Chassis car that has the inlet on the top left hand side (like a g-60/VR rad) and the outlet on the right hand side (like a 8v/16v rad). I binned the power steering and the A/C so i dont have to use the crossover hardline that the g-60 cars come with. Plus that hardline doesnt fit so well with the front crossmember that the motor mount bolts to from a VR anyhow.. TIA..

The US market seatbelts (ERLA units iirc) are a bit of rube goldberg engineering. Too many moving parts and bits to break over time. I removed my auto belts and replaced them with a set from a chap on here who's car met an untimely demise after a run in with a lorry.. There's alot of archaic stuff that was built in to comply with the us crash standards. Instead of parcel trays we get these pudgy knee bars that cover a huge 40 lb steel beam that runs between the a-pillars behind the dash. When you do take out the ERLA belts there's a huge rats nest of wiring that runs from the fuse box along the door sill back behind the rear seats back around and back along the other sill and terminates at the a-pillar. BTW if anyone wants a set of the us belts i have a complete set plus some spares including all the wiring and switches that are necessary. :) (shameless plug :) )

to replace the front crossmember (subframe) you dont need to put it on a jig. Just make sure you put the car on jack stands and support the motor with another stand since when you remove the front crossmember the front motor mount will have to be unbolted..

some of the later saabs have a dual pass front mount unit thats not too terribly large (900CS or 9-2 here in the states) that seems like it should do a pretty good job. I found one in the wrecker a few months ago but it was knackered.. looked fine from the top, but once i got the bumper cap off it was torn up on the bottom and the end tank was cracked..

anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram for the non a/c 1990 g-60? im removing my a/c and need to comparethe non a/c diagram to the a/c version so i know what i can remove and what needs to stay. the US spec bentley is usually pretty good, but only has diagrams for a/c cars since all corrados sold in the US had a/c

is it a 1980 diesel? last of the german mk1's (in the states that is) gotta love the diesel cars for swaps.. no smog b/s to deal with..

Doin mine tommorrow! tryin to think of a way to do it without the filler cracking :roll: well as the bumper is made of abs you could get a plastic soldering kit and use some bits off of an old bumper to fill in the holes and then make the plastic "welds" a little big and then sand them down then use minimal filler. Prolly be a good idea to brace it on the backside of the bumper as well to add stability. IIRC plastic soldering kits ususally consist of a high wattage soldering gun and some plastic filler rods. A mate of mine used this when he frenched his rear plate into bumper. Came out quite nice and has run for 2 years with no cracks or anything..

A few fellows that i know over here in the US use the ABA block as a 2l bottom end. everything bolts right up. Its pretty much the same long block as the ABF iirc with different pistons. The earlier ABA's have a forged crank and oil squirters to cool the bottoms of the pistons as well. It was a motor developed for the north american market that came in pretty much every 4 cyl mk3 over here. The only exception is the canadians that got the 1.8l engine in the CL trimline and the 1.9 TDI's that came in passats and ventos. Sourcing the pistons wouldnt be a problem as they are a dime a dozen over here. I'm not sure what the c/r that the stock ABF pistons would yield with the G-60 head, but that could be an option as well if the c/r wasnt too high..

If you want to save a few quid what you can do is visit your local breakers and nab the plate off of dam near any turbo volvo. They have a 180 deg thermostat built in. The last one that i picked up i think they charged $5 US, the time before it was just a pocket item. (gotta get the gate fee back somehow :) ) you'll need 2 m16x1.5 to AN thread adaptors if you go that route though.

Blue and White... as per my friends 9A golf.. cross reffed with the etka and the haynes manual for the pressures and the blue is the low pressure one which is .25 bar and the white is the high pressure which is 1.8 bar. The black switch is for 1.6 bar.

You can also use the bottom half off of some of the older volvos with k-jet, mostly 240's iirc. Its a dished metal plate with an outlet pipe i think of between 2-2.5 inches in dia and completely removes the bottom part of the airbox

petervr6 - great chap to buy from. Bought the seatbelts out of his VR that he was breaking to replace the automatic ones that we got here in the states. Shipped when he said he was going to and the items were packed very well. Made the trip from the UK to the US in perfect shape. Thanks again peter! If given the opprotunity i wouldnt hesitate to purchase other items from him.

it will fit..

My mates running a head from a PL motor on an 9A block. Bolts straight on with no difficulties in fitment. If the 1.8 head is in good shape and recently rebuilt then you should have no problems.

not quite the as nice as that red one, but here's a couple of photos of my mates 92 mk2 golf with a VR swap. the fellow is super meticulous about his car. The wheel wells are even spotless for pete's sake.. The car started out like as GL then he sourced a corrado VR lump to drop into it..[/img]

its up under the carpet on your drivers side of the car behind the rear seats. its approx 2/3 of the way up from the rear of the car. If you pull carpeting out of the rear you cant miss it.

its safer to run it off of the cluster than off the FPR. A leak at the cluster may be annoying but its alot less annoying than if you have a leak at the FPR and you hole a piston because you ran lean under boost.

One of my mates is in the process of building a little monster along the same lines, the only exception instead of using a 9A bottom end, he's using the bottom end of an ABA motor and putting it into a MK2 GLI. He's gonna run a T3/4 with a PL head on top of everything, using digifant ijnection with a chip from SNS. Being our freind and all and how well we know him, we all have bets running on what driveline part is going to go first once he gets it running.. :lol: Sam and Danny @ SNS are very accomodating when it comes to coding up some specialst setups, wether you're using a blower or a turbo..

The earlier CIS pumps tend to run at a higher pressure.. the further along the VW development chain you go the psi/flow tends to drop i think it works along the lines like this: Motronic Another way you could be certain to not run out of fuel at a critical moment would be to add an extra pump inline. I know a few people running digifant1 / CIS turbo setups with an extra pump inline to help things out..

We didnt get the 16v or the Move them out specails, the 8v n/a corrados stateside. Whats sort of head came on those? Is it a counterflow head like on the G-60 or a crossflow like we got here stateside on the ABA motors?