Chris

good idea untill you accidently knock the stalk a few times whilst driving :D

its very simple, i have an old photo here, heres one i made earlier... :D im even kind of pointing at one of the bolts (theres one on the other side too) 10mm if i remember correctly. i know tempest is helping you but just for your reference you loosen these 2 bolts off very slightly whilst the engine is running so you can rotate the whole distributor to find you desired timing spot then tighten them up when shes running lovely again :) i hope it does!

fair enough :) they are on the cheap atm i would have thought youll be looking at an electrical fault rather than a fueling issue. last ditch effort, dry everything out as best you can, especially around the distributor and plug holes, then maybe leave the car to run for along time if you can keep it going, will aid the drying. hope this solves it, or better still, you go to start it during the week and its sorted itself already. when it started running lumpy did you try fiddling around with the timing on the distributor at all? may sound silly but sometime these engines can be very silly

lol one of the reasons i chucked the vr in mine. not trying to jump the gun here and i hope its a small inexpensive glitch which vince will find immediately, but, if its gonna work out to be too expensive jim, do you reckon youll be throwing another engine in there? lol doubt youve even thought this far ahead

if money isnt an issue this is probably the best course of action you can take, let the expert scratch his head :) (if he needs to that is)

did the same sort of thing to my 16v about 2 years ago, went through a deepish puddle, cut straight out, started it again 10mins later, drove 2mins down the road then it started to cough n splutter eventually cutting out again. took 45mins of stopping and starting like this, then suddenly the problem rectified itself, as if nothing had ever happened. i think the problem i encountered was that water had jumped up into the plug holes and around the distributor but looking through your thread i think youve probably ticked this box off already :( hope you get to the bottom of this soon matey, if i think of anything ill let you know

quite an expensive push of the button. but i guess itll get you moving and thats what you want simon

anyone who does an imob bypass, i dont no. there are some handy mechanics out there who can reprogramme the ecu imobs, also there is software which can marry an ecu and transponder box from different cars together. not heard of any quick ways to bypass ecu imob apart from the c2 management. i sure lots of people would already be on this if there was.

keep us posted on that one

did you take lots of photos and label wires whilst you took it out of the golf? i should by rights go back into the corrado how it was all plugged into the golf.

its a shame your so far away! id probably swap my obd1 with you to get you on the road

i would check mine but its pissing down outside. are you trying to bypass the ecu immob by using an obd 1 ecu with an obd2 engine loom? if you are i think youll find it wont work. and to my knowledge, didnt all obd2 vr6's come with the transponder box/chipped key etc??? correct me if im wrong

is it from that mk3 golf?

yes i'm one big wheel whore. :clap: what are you looking for? lol, i was kidding :D but saying that ill probably be looking for one rm soon (with or without a lip) as spare.

agreed :salute:

that is one big collection you have there. got a spare one for me lol

cool little thread. im looking to do mine soon, i have a spare rear bumper for it in my loft so if anyone else is planning to do this in the next few months p/m me as i wont be using the whole thing (i dont want anything for the bits just cover the postage or come get it :) ), this spare bumper could probably do 3 fill ins including my own. looking forward to the outcome of this

thanks for the gruvenparts crank pulley john (dukest), top bloke! :D chris

we could put the 106 engine in your old rado, im almost finished with it lol. be like the mustang in tokyo drift, 2 zaps with the welder and away you go :D

thats good news! what one did you go for in the end? any pics? i have some pressed plates you can have, dont think it would fly with the feds though being my number plate n' all :) sorry i didnt txt you the other day, ill do my best to pop over sunday, hopefully see this new rado of yours

indeedy it is

i think all the engine parts are still available if anyones interested :scratch: breaks my heart to see another one go but at the end of the day it makes the ones that are left rarer i guess. really dont no why this is still in the racks, im sure its just so they can say 'we have a corrado'

i know there are lots of different stories out there but ive seen quite afew smashed up corrados now and what has suprised me is how well the footwells/interior have stayed intact (not the same for rolled corrados i must add). saw this one yesterday down my local scrap yard. didnt get any interior photos but it was still very spacious inside. and this has hit some thing with some serious force... look away if you have a weak heart .

tom - as soon as the bits arrive ill give you a shout matey, if your free to lend a hand that would be welcomed with cups of the finest tea and biscuits :) lol sorry i meant sp 263s, i always mix them up. i think i shall be getting a set of them then. i did enquire about the group buy a couple of weeks back but they had just got the invoice back and were about to pay....too late unfortunately :( i should have been been more on the ball with my plans got your p/m btw, ill sort out your moo-la at some point today thats a point, i remember pri*k force charging me £40 for the pleasure of picking up my new snowboard bindings last year, ill have to look into the fees what do you reckon about the arp bolts and which ones to go for? full kit or just head studs and rod bolts. the question should be do i really need the main studs with the turbo in mind? is it recommended that when replacing lifters you replace the valves aswell? i may just sort the guides and seals for the time being then replace the rest in one hit next year

my vr is stripped and ready for it rebuild, im only redoing the head as the block is fine. ive been having a look around and decided to buy my bits from mjm autohaus http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_4_19_241 as there prices arent too bad and they ship via usps, so hopefully no duty tax on top of the shipping - if anyone knows of a better place please say, im trying to keep this as budget as possible ill start with the arp hardware- is it more worthwhile getting the full kit (main studs, head studs & rod bolts) or should i just get the head studs and the rod bolts? it will be turbo'd during the year timing chain kit - is the obd2 kit a good one to go for (it all fits ok doesnt it?) heres the link - http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_4_19_241_3847&info=OEM_VAG_021109503A.UPKIT_Timing_Chain_Kit_Dual_Chain_Up_to_1995&products_id=172 im going to replace my valve guides and seals too, is there anything else anyone would recommend? is it worth looking into the lightweight cam lifters, valve keepers, retainers or hd springs? lastly, the cams. schrick 263s or the cheaper autotech 262s? http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_4_19_241_1406