Jon TDI

Cotton gauze filters are OK to use but I've heard stories about the foam filters sucking in tiny particles into the G-lader. Anyway, back to the ISV-less situation. I had a play about last night, unplugged the ISV (while the engine was turned off) & then started it up. Initially the idle was low, but I adjusted the idle screw so it was ticking over at just under 1000rpm & it was rock steady. At the weekend I'll completely remove the ISV & plug up the spout on the inlet manifold & boost return pipe (I'm thinking of ditching this too!), then see how it goes. :wink:

Nah, I don't want to do that. I running a K&N panel filter in the standard airbox. I've heard Cone filters etc, and they are too loud for me (maybe I'm getting old!). I drive an average of 300 miles each week and couldn't live with the constant induction noise. Plus it would mean routing the filter somewhere for cold air, but I'm trying to free the engine bay of excessive pipe work!

OK, my next questions are:- If I ditch the bypass return line, do I need to fit an oil breather pot, or will just a filter on the crankcase breather be enough? And where the bypass line fits onto the G-lader I don't want to fit a second intake, so where can I get a blanking plate to fit?

http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=955 :) :wink:

Ah, I see. Is it noisy at all. The reason I'm asking, is that I'm thinking of ditching the bypass hose & ISV altogether. I don't want it to be noisy on part throttle. Cheers, Jon

Dubcharged, What sort of BOV have you fitted then.

Here's one I found on the VWVortex. http://users.pandora.be/joeri.rubens/ma ... ngine1.jpg

Well, if it's knackered then the idle will hunt around. Some have cleaned it out with carb/brake cleaner, but this dosn't work all the time. A brand new one is in region of £120. The reason it's there is to allow air to bypass the throttle butterfly on closed throttle, so you have a nice steady idle. If you remove the ISV, the idle screw could do that job. And it's one less thing to leak boost.

I was just wanting to know if anyone has done this in the UK. I know people have done this in the US, but obviously they have a different climate to the UK. The only problem I can see is that the idle screw may need adjusting to around 1000rpm. Comments from both sides of the Atlantic are welcome.

From what I've read on other forums, they're a waste of money. One of my mates fitted one to his 8V GTI, & it actually failed on emissions. No difference when fitted, apart from the gurgling noise.

Right then, I think I solved the problem. I cleaned up the linkages & lubed them up along with the cable. The cable operation feels fanastic now but it still doesn't return to idle quick enough. What I forgot to mention was all this has been happening after I fitted a 3.5bar FPR. I think what is happening is that the extra fuel going in at idle is making the ISV hold on to the revs far too long. I will hake a look at the mixture settings & adjust to suit.

Looks like I'll have to give it a good clean around that area & try to move the position of the idle switch. It does look pretty dirty on top of the TB & around the linkages. Maybe a bit of oil on the linkages & cable would cure the stiff operation.

I turned 29 last Friday! I've had the C for 3 years & had a Mk2 Golf GTI 16V for 5 years before that.

I haven't checked the switch with a meter, but I have checked it manually, ie. revved the engine & then pushed the switch manualy & it seems to work OK. Something else I have noticed is that the new cable seems to be stiffer than the old one!

Understeer happens if the front is too stiff. If you have only replaced the front shocks, try replacing the rears. When it was lowered, do you know it the camber & castor was adjusted? If so, you may still have the settings dialled in for lower suspension. Also, check the tyres pressures.

The problem I have is that it takes too long to return to idle after the engine is revved. So, I've just replaced my throttle cable thinking that it would cure this problem. But, no. I've had a look at the idle switch & that seems to be OK but I'm not 100% sure. Anybody got any ideas?

But, the guy who told me this used to own a Lotus Europa in Japan. You would of thought that this was RHD, right? Wrong. It was an American import, so it was LHD. The Lotus was too expensive to import from the UK, so he got it from the US instead.

Well, I've owned VW's for the last 8 years, & I'm on first name terms with the lads in the parts dept! Plus, I used to be a Club GTI member, which gets you 10% discount on parts. :thumbleft:

Just picked up my cable from the dealers. '91 G60 with 50*M*** chassis no - part no 536 721 555. Retail price is £21.27, but I payed £19.15 with my discount.

I work with a few Japanese engineers, & I've just asked why. Apparently, if they buy an imported vehicle & it's originally LHD they prefer to keep it LHD i.e, If it's a German car, they like to keep it LHD. If it's a UK car, they keep it RHD. It's not a big deal to them. Strange but true!

I always thought that the whistle is the excess boost going thro' the bypass system & it was perfectly normal. Mine's always done it since I put the smaller pulley on, especially at between 4000 & 5000rpm. Most G60's I've seen (and heard) with smaller pulleys do it.

Brookescourt, I can definately recommend the SNS Stage 5 chip. It's much more aggressive than my old one. By the way, thanks for the 3.5bar FPR!! :D

The downpipe heatshield is spot welded down one side. It's held in place by a bolt which goes inbetween the 2 pipes. I got mine off by cutting sections off with a pair of tin snips & then bending & twisting the top part off the bolt with a long screwdriver. It took about an hour to do, but the it's soooooo much better without that rattle.

It's supposed to do that. Something to do with cooling the fuel vapours after running the engine. Mine does it on a warm day or if it's been stood still & then switched off.

Sandy, if you mean upgrading the internals of your charger, then there's not alot else you can do without flowing the inlet & outlet.