Jon TDI

Looking Good Lee. I don't know how much the grille is worth, but Oettinger are a very reputable German tuning & styling company. Probably worth quite a bit.

Yeah, I currently have just the boost gauge in one of the holes. It simply works off the vacuum sensor at the back of the instrument cluster. If you use a T piece & a length of vacuum hose it can be fitted within an hour. Don't know what to put in the other hole, maybe an oil pressure gauge. Gauges are usually around £40 & the senders are the same. I think the G60 already has the wiring to plug in the sender to gauge. I seem to have a spare wire dangling around the top of the oil cooler/filter area. Can anybody comfirm which wire is the correct one i.e. colour?

As long as the engine is mechanically sound, it can cope with the extra power. Mine has done 20,000 miles since the rebuild an is still going strong. I recommend the 68mm pulley & chip. Still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it!! (which is every day)

Welcome to the forum! G60s are getting on for 12 years old now so finding a low mileage one will be difficult. At that age, it is highly recommended to get the G-lader rebuilt (Jabba advise to get it done at 70,000 miles). There are various stages of rebuild. Jabba do the Stage 2, Stage 4 & R1. Stage 2 will be about £400 (standard rebuild with uprated bearings, new seals wider toothed belt), but most people will go for the Stage 4 (as Stage 2 but outlet is ported) which is a little bit more. R1 is as Stage 4 but the inlet is opened up & is used with their induction kit. The chip is normally sold separately & used in conjunction with a smaller G-lader pulley, to increase boost levels. Hope this helps.

Right then, here the part no's:- 2 x Screw N013 966 26 (fixes panel to brackets) 1 x Clamp 535 863 247 (LH bracket - now OBOSLETE) 1 x Clamp 535 863 248 (RH bracket - use 2 of these) 2 x Plug 535 867 842 A4FB (Screw Head Covers) All of these can be bought from the stealers, I think the total was about £3 !!

I have recently bought the same part from Fat Tony on this forum. You need to order 2 brackets, 2 screws to fix the panel to the brackets and 2 screw covers. When I ordered my parts the LH bracket was obsolete, so I just used 2 RH brackets. You will need to drill some small holes on the inside of the console bin, to fix in the brackets. Use some small self tapping screws the fix the brackets in place. Secure the gauges to the panel & then screw the panel to the brackets. The gauge panel will not fit flush with the front face of the console, it will be recessed by approx 20mm. I think I still have the part nos some where.

Yeah, I use it every now & again. It makes the rain droplets slide off the windscreen at speed.

I'll try to, if I can get the digi camera to work.

Well I ordered them from the dealer.....not bad really....only £120 for a set. They're really good. I wanted them for winter use while my alloys are getting refurbished..........or maybe I will get some new alloys....hhmmmmmmmmmmm....no no no spending too much money on the car !!! At least that's what the girlfriend says!!! Cheers, Jon

For the G60, it has to be the chip & smaller pulley. It gives the engine the power it should have had in the first place.

Does anyone have any pictures of the 15" winter steel wheels fitted their Corrado. I'm thinking of getting a set and was wondering what they look like fitted before I go ahead and order them. Cheers, Jon

How True!!!!

I had the K Star kit on my Mk2 Golf 16V. I started off with the ignition module first and then added the fuelling kit later. the whole kit is well worth it and needs to be set up on a rolling road. The power comes in a lot smoother & at lower revs instead of the characteristic kick at 4500 rpm. As far as fuel type, the 16Vs are supposed to run on 98RON. Anything lower than this and the engine will start to pink. Some 16Vs do, some don't. Mine did, so I used to run it on Super unleaded (before the times of Optimax) and it was costing a packet. When I got the K Star I worked out it would pay for itself within a year with the money I saved on running it on unleaded. I believe the price of £500 includes setting the car up on a rolling road (usually a couple of hours), if it doesn't, the price has gone up since I got mine!!!

Do you have high wattage bulbs fitted? If so then it is advisable to fit an uprated wiring loom. If not, then check the wiring, fuses,etc. The switch runs a little hot anyway, but if have replaced 2 switches then something is wrong.

Don't worry too much about it! If you can jack it up & get underneath, start the engine up from cold & put your hand near the joints of the exhaust. If it it is blowing you will feel it on your hand. The joints may need tightening up a bit or a bit of exhaust putty to seal it up. If you want to get a good quality sports exhaust, I can definately recommend Supersprint. They fit perfectly & sound very nice.....sporty but not too loud. If you don't want to pay for a full system, then do what I did & add the various sections a bit at a time, when you can afford it. Check your heat shields if it noisy. The heat shield around the downpipe started to rattle on mine. It had rusted on the spot welds, so I just took it off with a pair of tin snips & some brute force!