Lufbramatt

pm a guy called rubjonny on clubgti he rebuilds the looms so has all the diagrams etc

Hi, If you're still doing these I'm interested in a set of the 4 rear lines (the two on the beam arms between the flexis and the two that link to the compensator valve) as I'm refurbing my rear axle and can't beleive I'm going to get it all to bits without breaking anything so may as well replace the lot. If you could PM me a price for the set including postage that would be great. I won't need them straight away, more likea month or so's time but can send over a deposit to cover the cost of materials etc if that's any help? Cheers Matt

"Sleeper16", good seller, good communication and ARB turned up exactly when expected, knocked a fiver off the postage to keep it to a round number. Top service, cheers fella :)

Just seen your other thread, didn't realise you're in australia! oops. might be a bit far to go to strip a passat!

90% of a B4 is the same as a B3 :) mine is basically a B4 in a B3 shell!

The passat beam is actually narrower than a corrado beam. Strange but true. although converting the rear to 5 stud is just a case of changing the discs. Wishbones and track rods are wider on a passat AFIAK. If you do find a VR6 passat to break (good luck, there's only about 5 left in the UK :-( ) Can I come and scavenge the carcass? There's a few bits I need for my B3.

when i did mine I got the steering lock housing and ignition barrel+key off the donor car, then swapped that in too, so I use the ignition key from the donor car to start the car. So as well as the ECU, you need the transponder coil, key, immobiliser box and some of the loom from the fusebox to the column. Easiest way to bypass them is to remove the chip from the key, superglue it to the transponder coil and hide it up behind the dash, so it will be permanently un-immobilised. I think you can get them coded out but it involves taking the ecu to someone that can do ecu voodoo.

I ended up setting the front konis on mine pretty soft, made it feel more confident. Supple is good on a road car.

Check tyre pressures too!

just rebuilt the dizzy on my ABF. The vr6 one looks pretty similar. Once you get the drive "cog" off the end its pretty simple. replace the oil seal when you're in there too. I'm not sure how you get the cog off a vr6 dizzy but on the abf one you have to knock a roll pin out from the middle which is the hardest bit as it involves a fair amount of force and you have to be careful not to crack the alloy casing. Perfectly do-able though if you're mechanically minded.

yes I'm pretty sure they're all the same casting. I have an exhaust manifold off a KR corrado on my 2.0 16v ABF head, looked identical to the one I took off and bolted up fine on both sides.

One annoying thing with a mk3 golf sourced ABF is the lighting loom is bunched in with the engine loom so you'll need to separate that out. Lightened flywheel is a good mod makes it rev much more happily (equivalent to loosing 120+kg off the weight of the car in low gears).Tried a golf that had one in, makes it feel like a revvy 1.4 in a small lightweight car if you see what I mean, much more responsive. Got mine from hotgolf on clubgti ready for when I swap out my dieing gearbox in the summer. Yep agree with Roger the passat boxes has silly short 1st-3rd, probably to help with towing? means that 2nd is only good for about 50mph and you have to change up before you get to 60. Although it does mean that 3rd is epic for b-road overtaking, puts you right in the powerband at 50-70mph.

Yep it's a good lump the ABF. Mine's not quite standard though- P+P'ed head, decat, optimised airbox (see the "how to make your ABF breath on a budget" thread on clubgti) and a few other bits and bobs. Mine's up on 238000 miles now and still pulls really well, doesn't burn any oil and will see over 40mpg easy on a run. When I did the swap about 4 years ago it would edge in front of a mini cooper S up to silly speeds no problem and would hang on to a 2.5 boxster up to about 70. However, the lumps are getting old now (think the last ones were 98/99 in seat ibiza cupras) and can suffer from dieing sensors and niggly oil leaks- the classic one is the dizzy oil seal. If any of the sensors is a giving a duff reading it will put the ECU into batch fire mode and you'll lose about 5-10mpg and a bit of performance. When you do the swap I'd advise to replace at least the crank position sensor, coolant temp sensor and check and repair all the wiring loom as they get brittle with age.

I'm in rochester, kent so darlington is a bit of a trek from me! postage would be good. drop me a pm with the total cost and your paypal address and I'll send the money over. I've found somewhere to get the clamps so no probs there.

Very interested in the rear ARB. couple of questions- where are you located, can you post? what bits are needed to fit it (looks like the bands that go round the torsion beam?) and what thickness is it? cheers Matt edit: done a bit of research and I'll defo have this subject to being able to arrange collection/delivery