DrJustice

It's done - the Conlog Immobilizer has been ripped out and bypassed. On my car it was mounted behind the center console on a bracket bolted to the transmission tunnel. To remove it, I took out the instrument panel insert (to gain access to the switch gear mounted on the center console), the center console trim (to see what you're doing) and the lower part of the dash board on both sides (to get to the Conlog electronics box and the relays). The electronics box and relay socket are mounted to the bracket with two screws. The two relays can be pulled from their sockets and jumpers with cable lugs inserted in their place (the relays have markings to show which pins are the contacts). The two single leads plugged into the electronics box can be pulled out and a jumper with cable lugs used to connect them. You could of course cut the cables and splice them, but using jumpers is quick and easy and makes the removal reversible. That's it, job done. Refer to the video above for some visuals to go by. Thanks to Rydell Motorsport for the video!

When I lived in the big city, Oslo, my Corrado was constantly attempted stolen. I think there were more than 10 break-ins throughout a few years, with crushed windows and ruined locks every time - all this despite the immobilizer sticker and blinky light. The immobilizer saved my car from being driven and most likely wrecked every time though - so yeah, a Corrado is one car you definitely want an immobilizer in. Edit: now living in the country side, so there's no more stealing my car - now I only have to watch out for moose as Keyo hints at below (there are no reindeer this far south in Norway) :)

Thanks, Keyo. I'll consider a new immobilizer eventually. Right now I just want to rip out that Conlog junk and set fire to it before crushing it with a sledgehammer and then running repeatedly over it with the Corrado

Thank you for the reply, Bauhaus! Yes, that's the conclusion I've come to so far, based on the video above: the Conlog system is not an integral part of the ECU. I've also been told otherwise, but I trust the video above and Bauhaus' confirmation! We're now seemingly three persons in the whole universe who knows anything about this :D This might well save the day. I'll rip my dashboard apart and see if a procedure like that in the video is applicable. Edit: Will report back when I know more, but it might be a while since I have to travel back and forth to my immobilized Corrado... Edit 2: Another seller of an ECU has confirmed what we now know.

I found this on youtube - a guy who removes the Conlog immobilizer from a Golf mk III. At least, it's the same kind of Conlog fob. He basically just shorts three wire pairs that ran between the fuse box and the dreaded Conlog box. Now, this indicates that the immobilizer may not have anything to do with the ECU... Before I tear the car apart to see if it has the same arrangement (my car is also stranded far away, so I can't easily get to it...), I'll ask if anyone has been inside the dashboard of a Corrado and had a look - seen anything similar?

Nothing? OK... The Bentley manual doesn't mention the immobilizer, as far as I can see. If I were to solve this by swapping out the ECU, possibly to one without the immobilizer, there are a few questions: 1. how is the immobilizer tied into the ECU; fob's 3 wires straight to the ECU, or something else? 2. does a specific fob tie to a specific ECU? 3. there are different types of Corrado ECUs, which ones will fit my European 1991 G60? 4. any other ECU swap traps to avoid? Edit 1: I can get hold of an ECU, from Europe, with two numbers on it: 0 261 200 346 037 906 022 DP (I believe this is the significant type number) Does anyone know what that one could do for me? Edit 2: I've been told the following w.r.t. 037 906 022 DP, without the actual details of how to do it - again, anybody in the know? "After connecting the ECU, you have to enter the code you are adopting immo the system of your car. You can also turn off the immo system."

Greetings fellow Corradisti! My Conlog immobilizer have stopped working and I'm at my wits end - it's bit of a crisis. My 1991 G60 came with two Conlog three-contact fobs. One died a few years ago, but the second worked fine. Now the second one has died and I can no longer start my car. I assume that the ECU and wiring is sound since when the previous one died the second Conlog worked fine, and I'm getting a slightly delayed blink sometimes when I insert the fob, indicating that it makes contact with the ECU. I also assume that the fob is battery-less, using a serial-number chip inside, powered when inserted into the slot. Is there anything I can do to fix or bypass the immobilizer? I'm handy with electronics, but so far I can't find any info on these things to guide me. Edit: I've done all the obvious 1st aid procedures: cleaning the contacts, tightening up the contact springs in the socket, applied pressure/wiggling etc., reseating the ECU wire-harness plug and resetting the ECU. The immobilizer is of this type:

Ollie, Some of us have had similar symptoms as discussed in this thread. In my case it was a relay that was slowly dying. The VAG shops were unable to diagnose it correctly. DJ --

I can add that that when I took my car on the first few drives the ABS would work when the car was cold, before it resorted to never coming on properly again. AFAIK there are two ABS related relays in the fusebox. My Bentley manual has been stolen, so I can't look it up, but I'm sure some other members wil chime in and identify the correct relays. The relays don't cost much, it's well worth a try. Of course, one could always borrow some from a mates Corrado and see if it helps. DJ --

I've been trawling the net, and there's not much to be found. Except for that eBay auction mentioned in my previous posting. I'll still be on the lookout, but I may also give in and just go for some current gear to complete what I've got... Strange how the original stereo is as rare as fresh dinosaur droppings. Could it really have been that bad, or what is it? DJ --

I'm wondering if I should get hold of and install the original sound system for my 91 G60. For some reason, all Corrados I've seen have had aftermarket systems, so I've never heard nor seen it. I quite like the thought of getting that it back to orignal. I'm not into big stereos, and the original is probably more than good enough for me. A few questions then: Is it anything like this? How does it sound? Is it possible to use the aktive speaker system with an aftermarket CD/radio? Is it worth the trouble and money, in your opinion? If you happen to have the original door speakers and CD/Radio (or full system...), I'm interested. Will eventually post an ad in the wanted section if the project is on. DJ --

I live in Norway, so I'm still on winter wheels. The Carmonas are for the summer. I'll try and remember to put up a picture when i change in a month or so. With 205/45 on the 7.5" there is no stretching. Looks like a perfect fit to me. DJ --

Nope :) Mine is a LHD (91 G60, german import) and comes up at 130kph. Not sure when it goes down though. DJ --

Hi bradvr6! Nice choice of rims there! IMNSHO and with bucketfulls of bias, the Carmonas are the perfect rim for the Corrado - just listen to the two words spoken together :lol: Well, to the point. This is my experience with Carmona: I got my G60 with the 9" on the rear. The car was lowered no more than 50mm. The rear wheels was just too big, even with undersized tire width (stretched, is that what you call it?), and they would rub the raches on even small bumps. I quickly ordered a pair of 7.5" for the rear. With a fresh set of dampers and springs, still dropped ca. 40-50mm, I have seen no more rubbing (the front was always fine). BTW, they're shod with 205/45. DJ --

My ABS had a similar symptom. When starting the car one of the realys would click on and off rapidly, increasing in frequency until it gave in. The ABS light flickering accordingly. After a few months it stopped the clicking on starts and the ABS light just came on silently. I had the car at a VAG service center twice, but they could not fix it on either occasion. They just kept on replacing ABS sensors and suggesting that I change _every_ ABS component in the car (!)... IMO the symptoms suggested a bad relay, a short or a bad connection, and replacing the ABS relays in the fuse box did the trick for me. A guy at my regular garage told me that there is also sometimes a problem with bad contacts the fusebox itself, causing problems like these. Now I only need to install a switch to disable the ABS; I like the brakes more without it, at least in the dry :wink: DJ --