kow

wheels sold

Have a set of 4 Speedline alloys for sale They have been refurbished over a year ago and sprayed grey, then left unused or fitted with tyres I also have the 205 continental tyres with 4 to 6mm tread, but they are starting to crack between the tread, and will throw these tyres in for free, may be OK for off road use to someone Wheels are in Kendal near the M6 , junction 36......however it's possible to meet buyer at agreeable time/ location as travel to Chorley and Whitehaven on regular basis Looking for £100 collected Note these wheels are in excellent condition, don't need refurbishing and fit the VR6 ie 5 stud Can supply more pics if required Contact me on 07963 985971 for info

I have this wheel complete with tyre in garage and is surplus to requirements It is in very good order, not buckled and has minimal kerbing at rim which has been touched in Collect only from LA8 area Kendal, can send pics to interested parties £10

Replied to this on your other thread. VW's are basically a sound design, it's just a fault you have to work through to find the problem, which is usually an easy fix.

See the other thread on more idling problems and check you havn't got a faulty water temp sender telling the ECU that engine is cold, therefore overfueling. The revs drop off immediately as it's an electrically powered instrument, turn the key off and it all dies, this is normal.

Had similar problems in the past, and first I would clean out your throttle body which is favourite cause. Get some carb cleaner aerosol, remove the flexible intake pipe and some lint free cloths . Open up the throttle butterflies and give internals a good squirt of carb cleaner, push the rags inside with a long screwdriver etc. ( Don't go to agressive and lose them) and soak up the black gunge.(BE CAREFULL WITH FINGERS AROUND THE EDGES OF THROTTLES, THEY ARE LIKE RAZORS). Do it again until all the crap is out from the area of closed position. Pull off and clean through any adjacent vac lines, chck for splits etc. Reconnect all bits. Then start it up and clear the engines throat, may miss a bit as carb cleaner gets pulled through. Can do the same cleaning with the ISV as they get gummed up. Throttle position switch is important as it tells the ECU the throttle is closed, at high revs on closed throttle (over run) the ECU will cut the fuel off at throttle closed position and as revs drop to 1000 or so the ECU just gives enough fuel for tickover, the ICV keeping the revs steady at 800 ish by air modulation. Check that microswitch clicks as throttle goes to stop, return springs and general stiction can cause throttle to be at closed but switch not made. Good luck

If your getting it cheap, then it's best to break it and sell whats good on it. Learn about what to look for as you strip it. It looks to have had a hard life, will need money pouring at it and when it's all done it still won't be as good as one you can buy now that will have history and been well cared for. Don't go down that road.

Thanks for that chaps, it would seem that it's been super stickied, so will wait for the weather to warm up and sort it.

Find yourself a bit of alluminium, or could be any thin metal, top off a jamjar etc. Cut it into a round shape bigger than your hole in heatshield, put a hole in the middle which will fit over the pin, then use this as a washer/spacer which goes between heatshield and clip. Job sorted.

Trying to remove the nearside plastic cover that fits between windscreen and scuttle area, so I can fit the "incorrectly fitted cover" that is clipped above the air intake duct. Have removed the cross head screw at the end of this bit of plastic and tryed to ease it up, but is clinging on, so don't want to break it, whats the answer?