boost monkey

Front arm left: 1H0407151A Front arm right: 1H0407152 Suspension top mounts: 357412331A VAGCAT is your friend :salute: :grin:

Jonathan, could you tie lots of little ribbons to the inside of your rad and various other components, and then put a large RR fan on at the front of your car, then we can see the airflow through the engine bay :clap: btw, you will not look at all :camp: with lots of ribbons. This is an experiment :salute:

Aluminium is much less efficient at absorbing heat (thermal conductivity) than Copper is. Copper ftw if you can get some sinks in it. Don't be fooled by copper coloured sinks, they're normally aluminium anodised to look like copper :brickwall: Aluminium is good though if that's all there is to offer :salute:

can't you buy metal flanges or something? They ring bells... :scratch:

p.s. JMC, if you do go the heatsink route, get some copper heatsinks plus some good thermal adhesive such as Arctic Silver :salute:

Mentioned the aluminium-ness in my post that you quoted dude! :grin:

lol, all you mods with your secrets! Is a shame that the car has got a dodgy engine in it.

Stick on thermometers are definitely a plan... I still want someone to put them on their bonnet to see whether there are any functional places to put vents. I hate them, but I do love the pursuit of thermodynamic efficiencies :grin: btw, if you don't care how things look, try making all the black plastic in the intake silver. It doesn't sound like much, but every little bit really does help.

Yeah I hear what you say about heat transfer, but the difference after a hard run is still really noticable! The silver aluminium oil standalone tank doesn't really absorb much heat due to it's nature as shiny and bright coloured (tech talk), plus as Prod's car is Silver the bodywork doesn't get _too_ hot, as opposed to my burgundy. You could always get some kind of finned oil tank and mount it somehere in the air flow, maybe where the horns are behind the grille? That would be _next level_! :cheers:

Look at the sticker in the boot, or look at the VIN plate?

...in my Facebook account! :nuts: SO there they are, all 56 of them, individually annoted for my special friends... :camp:

Ah, I'm sure I can manage the rear bushes by myself with a press! Cheers though. I won't be building up the rear beam for a while yet.

I may go poly later, who knows? tbh, most of the perishables on my car are so perished that even returning to OEM spec is gonna make it feel so much better! And that is the plan :salute:

If you change it, I will punch you in the ovaries.

Bahn Brenner Motorsport, ladies! :nuts:

OSF wheel bearing really starting to give up the ghost now! Not gonna drive it anymore until I can sort out another one.

do you have standalone oil supply for the charger? if not, and this is from experience, your intake temperature will be anything up to 20deg higher than it should be. Prodigal has one fitted... I don't burn my hand on the inlet manifold any more (yes it is THAT noticable).

That reg plate is awesome! :shock:

Yeah, first thing that springs to mind is heat soak. Big fat fans in front of the car when on the RR are good, but they no way simulate the air all around you when you're driving (for example, do RR fans actually blow onto the stock IC?? I would have thought not!) So yeah, I would expect subsequent runs to be a little down on power due to the heat thing. Do you have a phenolic gasket?

Thanks blue95, but not a fan on Polyurethane for road use. From studying material science, the poly bushes are just too tough: bushes are designed to have some flex in them, else you might as well fill the bush gap with a big chunk of metal :shock: If bushes don't absorb the energy/forces for which they are designed, then the next structure in the path of the force will attempt to absorb it, which will be the cross member in this instance. I'd really rather replace bushes (however difficult!) than fatigued crossmembers! (and remember, rusty metal is weak metal...) For the track where the surfaces are uniform and there aren't potholes etc, then go for it. 2p :salute:

Wow Jonathan! :shock: just goes to show the difference between driving about unmapped and mapped huh! Less torque than the old engine before it was programmed.... Interesting stuff. I would have thought you could still smooth those curves out a bit, but I guess it depends on how much time/money you want to spend and whether you feel it performs as you want it to on the road :salute:

Yeah, check the battery for sure! Dash lights are LED and don't need much to go on, so I'd say the battery is dead.....still :brickwall:

Are you high? Think about it some more dude. It will be vapour, and not likely to pool in massive quantities on the road.

get some waxoyl on those thread before they get all caked up! :shock: :gag: good work though bro, Look forward to getting my "new" suspension by proxy! :clap:

Pretty! :luvlove: :lol: