bigbroony

Many moons ago the oil filler cap came off my 2.0l 16v due to a snapped lug.The sound proofing was soaked and I assume the oil reached places it shouldn't around the engine.The smell of hot oil that pervades the car is starting to get on my nerves as it's the only thing wrong with the car; apart from the heater cables and a respray of course.Would it be safe or even advisable to steam clean the engine bay? I know that for some cars,Lancia step forward, it's sudden death to use a steam cleaner. Cheers Alan.

Panic over, for now.Passed test with only an advisory for handbrake.

It's MOT time tomorrow and I fear a new fuel accumulator is needed.Last year he put it on advisory as it was just damp.He says it's the pump but if it's next to the axle it's not is it?I've looked in all the usual places, ECP, GSF, ebay but can't locate one.Is it specific to the Corrado( 2.0l,16v) or is it just a Bosch part.There's a one for a 911 that certainly looks the part. Cheers.

I can get hold of an external gauge to check if my flashing oil light is electrical or pressure based.Does it matter which of the 3 available holes I bolt it into?There's two for the switches and a blank. Alan.

Bugger ! Light's come on again.It stutters and flickers so I think it's an electrical fault and not pressure. I know someone with an external gauge so I'll find out one way or the other. It could even be a faulty switch I suppose. Just because they're new doesn't mean they're infallible.

As the title (almost) suggests my car passed it'd MOT this afternoon.I've therefore decided to lash out vast sums of money tidying bits and bobs that have niggled me for some time. First was a new set of door lock pins, then I thought, a replacement for my drivers seat tilt lever which is currently gaffer taped.While I can't see it while driving, I know it's there.You all know what I mean.I've located the pins but had no luck with the lever.Just missed one on fleabay actually.Any ideas where I can buy one( or two).I'm willing to bet they're not available from the stealers. Cheers Alan.

There is a God.It turned out that both the switches were "high" pressure.They've been like that while I've had the car.Anyway I fitted the correct bits, fiddled with the spade connectors in a technical fashion and hey presto.................no oil light.It's certainlt lottery win tonight.

Just as I thought. Thanks a lot. I'll get on to it at the weekend.

That sounds promising mate.No one likes to have low/no oil pressure.The engine goes well, sounds well and has no nasty smells emanating fron it.I suppose the switches are cheap enough to buy both and be done with.Would the faulty one not show on a plug-in diagnostic? Any idea what the part numbers are please? Thanks, Alan

That's what I was led to believe.But surely if you disconnect the spade connectors, the oil light shouldn't work at all.I was hoping this would be a method for determining which, if any was faulty.Mind you I'm no autoelectrician.

My oil light started to pulse on and off at the weekend( no buzzer ).I've disconnected the spade connector on top of the oil filter but it still flashes.A quick web surf has brought up the fact that there's a switch on the head that actually governs the flashing/buzzing.Is this correct? If so, whereabouts is it? and what colour wire goes to it? If this doesn't prove to be the case, I've been down to "my man" who has the requisite gear to actually check the pressure.On talking it over with a friend who has had VW's for years, he reckons that it's a switch problem more often than not.Heres hoping ! Cheers Alan.

You always gotta pay, one way or the other !

Swiftkid, I've never looked but I think the problem is indeed cog based and not cable. Dragon green, funnily enough my mate with the spare part is built as you describe so maybe I'll get him to do it.After all I watched him replace the headlamp bulb on my son's Megane at the weekend;and he didn't even have to take the engine out.That's a Megane/scenic in-joke by the way.

I had my heater matrix replaced by a friend of a friend a couple of weeks ago( god bless that man;middle of winter, back lane, Seaham.)He mentioned that some bit was snapped off the control unit.Now I've had the car for 7 years and could only ever get heat to either the screen or floor.Now it's not possible to direct the heat anywhere.I know someone with a spare control panel.I gather from a quick search on here that the cables can be fitted without taking the dash out but can the panel/cables be fitted? My new found friend maintains he's on no great hurry to repeat taking the dash off ! !

Success! ! Clip now fitted.In true Clarkson style it needed a hammer though;but then doesn't everything worth doing?Haven't driven it yet.Went out for an Italian instead.I feel I'm on a winner as the gear lever actually moved when I'd finished.

I've bought part number N 908 159 03 and it doesn't look to me as it will fit.I haven't offered it up to the shaft yet( fnarr fnarr). I'll have a better look tomorrow.

So, what's an e-clip then? And more importantly where can I get them?

That certainly looks to be the very fellow for me.

My gear linkage is very sloppy and recently the lever sometimes baulks unless care is taken.After a quick Google I found that one problem is a missing linkage circlip.The one that actually locates the lever on the shaft.This is the case with my car. Does anyone have the part number of it or it's dimensions so I can get it from another source and not spend the rest of my life trying to explain to the dealers which bit I'm after. Cheers Alan.

Reggit, I too am a Triumph man. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5fBz4lvuZ4 Sorry about the quality and duration but it was done on a phone. Alan

Came across this on another forum.Just as interesting on here; http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/showthr ... ght=haynes

I'm a great believer in coincidence.Everything was fine ( apart from only working on 4) till I started "fixing" it.After I'd applied my magic( think Homer Simpson's barbeque) the resistor pack achieves nuclear fission temperature.I have to figure it's something I've done. I had this problem when I bought the car years ago.At that time it was the copper contact not connecting properly on other than number 4 station.That's not the case this time unfortunately. PS the fan spins freely and the blower fuse hasn't er blown.

I've had the thermal resistor from Maplins for months now and because there was a brief pause in the winter weather this afternoon I thought I'd tackle this supposedly easy fix of the dreaded heater fan on 4 fault.Sure enough it was a matter of about 30 minutes to get the resistor out,snip the old thermal gizmo off and solder the new one on( I also bought a spare.No flies on me). Anyway I put it all back and............................still only works on 4.This time however the pack grew mad hot then stopped completely.Was the resistor the wrong part? Have I touched something with the soldering iron I shouldn't?Was ther something wrong with the pack in the first place? I've located a used complete unit( blower and resistor pack) now but I wondered if anyone had the answer. Cheers Alan.

Two of the best in my opinion; On an Aston belonging to a guy called Madison.........MAD150N, On a car belonging to a local publican called Jimmy Robson...........JRO850N.

On my standard( for now ) wipers the passenger arm is the longest.