bigbroony

I may pull it away again and apply a liberal quantity of clear silicone sealant.

Thanks a lot for that I was driven round the bend this morning.I'll have a look on my day off( Wednesday ).I've pulled the plastic finisher at the base of the screen almost off in error and now it doesn't fit flush.Is this going to let the weather in or is it not so important? Alan.

I've seen the light, I think.I've just looked at some second hand motors+mechs on fleabay and the reason I can't find the "other" bolt is that there isn't one! So do I undo the only visible bolt and pull the whole thing away, having removed the wipers first?

That's my point. You can't get at any of the nuts bcause they are on the underneath.

Well I've just been out to "change the motor".Complete and utter failure!I assume the bracket that the motor's fitted to has to come off but I can't see how.The top end nearest the screen is inaccessable as far as I can tell.I managed to move the plastic finisher enough to see that there's no sign of a bolt. All the bolts holding the motor on are underneath and I can't see a means of getting a spanner in there.Even if I could it would be impossible to align the crank afterwards. Can anyone prove me wrong. Cheers Alan.

I've just bought one off a well known auction site.It was a shop PW Europarts or some such.If you ring them they check fitment and ring you back....£38 including p&p. GSF also do them for about the same price. Fitting it's going to be trickyer than buying.Going to try on Sunday. Alan.

Photo's are a good idea.And yes I think I'll scribe everything in sight!Without using a mirror on a stick and being in possesion of incredibly tiny prehensile hands the bracket will surely have to come off.I'm a bit worried about rmoving the plastic flash panel but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do eh? I ordered the motor yesterday morning and it's turned up this morning while I was at work.Service or what?All that remains is to see whether it works.It's not a VW part but it wasn't VW price either.If I have to go the VW route I'll have had the practice and should cut down the fitting time!! Fortunately I no longer need the car on a daily basis ( company car pool ) otherwise I would have been outside now with a torch and extended vocabulary. Alan.

I've ordered the motor.After having another look this afternoon it's obvious, even to a cack handed fool like me that the bracket's going to have to come off first.I'm assuming the plastic shroud round the wipers will have to come off before that. The thing I'm most worried about is fitting the new motor to the linkage and getting the correct crank angle so that the wipers work properly!

Further to my original post; see Single speed wipers, I've worked out that the motor is in fact dying.The wiper arms are free to move and the motor goes slower and slower and gets warm.I've ordered another but heres the problem; Does the whole wiper frame have to come off to get at the motor or can the motor be unbolted from the frame while in the car? I've read that the whole unit must be replaced as one so as to get the correct park crank angle.Is there a way around this as I've obviously got to disconnect the old motor to fit the new? Cheers Alan.

I've also recently gone through this with my 16v.Whilst fiddling under the bonnet I got a kick off the distributor cap.On Sunday popped down to Halfords( ECP shut ) and bought new cap, rotor arm and plugs.They didn't have any leads but the literature suggested changing every 3 years.Anyway, back to the plot the car now runs cleanly and goes like a stabbed rat! A few years ago the car stopped with a bang and wouldn't start again.After much fiddling and swearing I got it home,popping and banging.It was diagnosed as an airflow meter problem, so one was duly bought( still smarting) and fitted. No difference; the car would start and run fine for a couple of minutes then die.Time for professional help.I had it trailered to Hawktune in Ryhope in Sunderland ( the man's a magician; he'd have been burned as a warlock in the Middle Ages).The following day he rang for me to collect the car.The culprit..............rotor arm.He couldn't see anything wrong with it, it just didn't work when it heated up! The airflow meter wasn't a total loss however as he reckoned over the years the mixture had been adjusted to take up wear in the metering.When he unadjusted it I noticed an immediate decrease in fuel consupmption. Hope this helps. Alan

I'll certainly check that out.It'll be a result if I don't have to spend anything. On a different topic;I recently had a stainless exhaust fitted( courtesy of a friend who didn't like the look of it on his) and the car's never run right since.Could this be a coincidence? I thought.Or was it a case of standing again.Anyway while I was fiddling about under the bonnet I got a kick off the disributor cap.That can't be right.To cut a long story short;I bought a new cap,rotor arm and plugs and the car now goes like a stabbed rat( so long as it's not raining!)

I don't finish work till 7'o clock at night so it'll have to wait till my day off; Wednesday.

That's a distinct possibility.They do seem to be going slower than when set at slow speed previously.In fact,it's all coming back to me now;when I first switched them on last week, they wouldn't move at all.I thought the fuse had blown.Am I going to be able to free them with a liberal application of WD40?

I don't use my car on a daily basis these days as I get the use of a company car.Consequently the poor thing suffers from old age and standing outside doing nothing for days at a time.I've recently had trouble with the windows, rear spoiler and speakers;all sorted with a bit of shoogling, switching on and off etc. Today I thought I'd take it for a blow as it's finally stopped snowing and the sun's actually come out.Now the wipers only go at one speed( not very quickly either) no matter which position the stalk is.As they are working at all, I'm assuming that the motor's ok and maybe there's a relay or resistor I should be looking at.Am I right? I've also got the single speed heater fan problem but I've bought the bit from Maplins and am waiting for better weather/lighter nights to sort that. Cheers Alan.

I noticed the other day whilst fiddling under the bonnet that I got a shock off the dizzy cap.New one needed maybe?

A friend of mine recently bought a VR6 and wanted to change the exhaust.He asked if I wanted his old one at a tasty price, so, given that his was a full stainless with big bore oval tailpipe(Magnex I think) and mine was held together with Gungum and beer cans I took him up on the offer. However my car is a 2.0l 16v so a suitable bypass pipe was obtained to fit.Now, the car is lumpy at tickover and low revs when cold becoming smooth over 2,500 revs.I can't make my mind up if it needs tuning or if it's just because it can be standing for days on the drive as I have the use of a company car. What's the verdict? PS it's OK when warmed up. Cheers Alan.

Mine doesn't buzz or vibrate, but there is a noticeable difference when it's disconnected.I don't yet know if thats a good or bad thing. I can't make my mind up if its buzzing when the engine's running, but it doesn't when only the ignition is switched on

The first thing I tried was screwing that in a bit to lift the revs and stop the engine dying.Then, on closer inspection, I found two vacuum pipes disconnected from undr the air intake elbow.I'll try screwing it out and see what effect that has. Back to the idle stabilisation valve;is it supposed to buzz like the one fitted to Mk2 Golfs when the ignition's switched on?Because it doesn't.However, removing the connector when the idle's going bonkers calms things down a bit. Alan.

Thanks for the replies. Regarding the idle stabiliser valve; I knew you could clean the one on ethe Mk2 Golf( and indeed I have done )but wasn't sure about the one on the Corrado.I'll give that a try. Where abouts is the screw on the throttle body? I can see what looks like a throttle stop screw. Is this the one you mean? The problem started a couple of weeks ago. Just prior to that a lug on the oil filler cap snapped allowing oil to spray over the top of the cam cover.I naturally thought this was the problem, but after cleaning everything I can see I'm not so sure. Cheers Alan.

As title suggests my car has suddenly developed an erratic tickover.It starts and runs fine but sometimes the engine idles at 1500 to 2000 rpm.Usually however it either dies altogether or struggles to maintain 800. Ihad this problem( or something like it) on my old SciroccoGTX.It turned out to be a by-pass valve that is open when cold but closes when warm actually staying open and allowing too much air in. Is there such a thing on a Corrado?There's a likely looking ,grey plastic, cylindrical gizmo with a switch attached under the air intake elbow. Any theories/help would be welcome before I ( gulp ) go professional. Cheers Alan.

I got Boge Turbos from ECP but they're too long.It's just occured to me;we were measuring them uncompressed.Do you think that the Boge ones may compress enough to fit?

One of my front shock absorbers sprung a leak the other day so I went to my local ECP. I told them the car was lowered ( seems to be about 40mm )but they said it sholdn't matter if I fitted standard dampers. Of course when "my man" came to fit them they are about 2" ( or 40mm ) too long.I phoned ECP and they said"Oh it must have had a proper lowering kit, in which case the standard damper won't fit". The car was lowered when I bought it so I've no idea by how much; but it's probably 40mm. The shock absorbers are Jamex( so I assume the springs are also )but will I be able to buy a pair of shorter dampers or will I have to stump up for a new kit? Thanks

I wish I'd known what these valves were called so I could have done this search before I posted my problem ( heater hose mystery ). I have this problem with my wife's Mk 2 Golf GTi. The inlet( right hand ) hose has a metal valve and the outlet has a plastic one , both joined by a thin rubber hose.This hose was blocked solid and on removing the plastic valve you couldn't see through it. It was , to all intents blocked by a small disc like plug. I removed it and connected everything back up. Needless to say the heater now does what it says on the box. Iwas abit worried that I'd done something wrong, but after reading this thread I'll be able to sleep soundly!

Just had a blimp about on the net( like you do when you're at work) and it definately looks like at least one of the inserts inthe hoses is a restrictor valve to protect the heater matrix though its mentioned that it's a pressure thing and not temperature. Maybe mine's just jammed shut as a result of head gasket failure?

Thanks very much for your speedy replies lads. I don't have the technology for pics, and anyway I'm at work at the moment. The system has been drained and refilled half a dozen times in the last week trying to locate a leak so that theory sounds good to me. Do you reckon if we keep the heater slider off the far right stop we should be ok?I have a VW breaker near me( VEEDUBS ) he may be able to point me inthe right direction. Anyway its early doors on here yet someone may happen along who's had the same experience!