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G Charged

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Posts posted by G Charged

  1. Posted

    its an old car at the end of the day...parts are not going to be at their best..especialy perishable rubber

     

    if you lower the car you will be putting more strain on everything..sooner or later you will have to replace bits anyway...makes sence to just do it all in one go and experience proper handling 1st time round.

     

    the brake compensator is something i dont know about...i was under the impression that it will adjust itself as it realises the car is lower, but i spose thinking about if its lower it thinks theres weight in the boot so it might brake rear heavy... anyone got info on this would be quality.

     

    i did promise myself id get genuine VW parts, ...but ive got some vibring original top mounts from GSF...anyone used these?...i used to MURDER topmounts on my old car so i thought id get cheapish ones and just replace em

  11. Posted

    my g60 has been similar to yours...just runs too hot for my liking....so at the moment i have a switch in my glovebox which i turn on and off myself..

     

    been looking at the neuspeed lower temp rad switch from awesome...im going to try that and see if it fixes my problems

     

     

    also out of curiousity, are you sure your alternator is charging properly?..you may have a voltage drop which is why the fan wont spin as fast/not spin at all...im sure i read all early corrados are suspect of doing this...

  13. Posted

    any info on this anyone?

     

    i know theres a rare vw motorsport 6 speed box available..but what about the later mk4 boxes? anyone know if these fit?, or how much work is required to make these fit?

  16. Posted

    just picked some up today, golf rallye half leathers, very good condition, bar 3cm where the stitching has come undone near the headrest

     

    firstly does anyone know what these are worth, and secondly, will the rear bench fit the corrado?..

     

    from what i understand he fronts will go straight in, but using the golf subframes makes the seats higher...so its better to transfer the corrado subframe to the rallye seats

  23. Posted

    just out of intrest for the oil check your oil feed to the super charger if not there then the outlet on the left side of the head shouldnt be losing much from there though if engine is totally rebuilt as for the rest i would take the same route as everyone else!

     

    checked and these are fine.

     

    "its had a complete engine rebuild with almost everything engine related replaced."

    Was the inlet manifold taken off the head? if so were new gaskets fitted?

     

    "i cant see a gasket not sealing...ive never had an issue with one before this car, however will do a compression test to rule this out, the blye temp sender and the black one have been replaced with VW ones after the gsf ones didnt let the car start, isv seems to tick, will see if i can borrow one to rule this out aswel...would this affect cold start really??"

     

    I agree but dont think its the head gasket the starting problem sounds more like the inlet manifold gasket sucking in too much air. Were all the vacuum hoses put back on correctly?

    You could rule out the leak by applying water mix with fairly liquid around the joint of the inlet manifold against the head

    Regards

     

    new gaskets were used, i will put money down on these not leaking as this was done on the engine stand and torqed and all cylinder head mating surfaces had a light skim to ensure they was flat, vacuum hoses are all on as before and the Carbon Canister is removed.

  24. Posted

    just to clarify with the dizzy timing, the blue temp sender must be unplugged and the car rev'd 3 times over 3K rpm and left to settle to idle each time. Then with a programable strobe (not one that runs off the HT leads) set to 6 degrees advance set the dizzy timing

     

    ahh this could be a factor, everything was set like that but the car wasnt allowed to idle after reaching 3k... im going to pop down and have the timing checked now by sumone who only does diagnostics and timing.

     

     

    thats quite a list of symptoms.

     

    Re,cold starting

    have you looked at the blue temp sender?

    or isv?

     

    assuming you have checked the basic components of the cooling system etc has your head gasket sealed up nicely after re-build?

     

     

    i cant see a gasket not sealing...ive never had an issue with one before this car, however will do a compression test to rule this out, the blye temp sender and the black one have been replaced with VW ones after the gsf ones didnt let the car start, isv seems to tick, will see if i can borrow one to rule this out aswel...would this affect cold start really??

     

     

    First thing is starting from cold, sometimes it will not fire up 1st time, however once started will chug for about 3-5 secondslike its misfiring and then idle fine. Starting from warm isnt an issue, about a second or so.

     

    sounds to me like spark plug i had the same problem fit wr6dp0 bosch items (check the part code not to sure on that )

     

    with the old engine the car had polo g40 ones when i checked the part number, with the new engine i used the recomended bocsh g60 ones , wr6dp0 sounds about right, i thikn the g40 ones had a R in the part number

     

     

    Secondly is consumption, the fuel computer starts reading at 1mpg from cold (have tried this once after driving after letting it warm for about 30 seconds to get that value) and is shocking untill it is warm. I always let the car warm up to 50 degrees oil temp (which takes about 5-6 mins)and then drive gently untill 80 deg is reached, this will do about 7mpg up to about 15/17mpg around town sensible driving.

     

     

    i get only 5mpg on a very cold morning on a short joruney !!! the car never gets off "choke " and the mfa has been know to play up its best calculating via petrol in to miles done

     

    ahh so the fuel consumption seems about right then? i was under the impression my cold start/choke was not working correctly as thats a hell of a lot of fuel! for a 1.8 :tongue: and does smell of fuel when i had a friend rev it for me as i stood behind it

     

     

    Fifthly..if i leave the engine to its own cooling system the water temp shoots to over 100 deg before the fan comes in, and its only the slow speed,which is why at the moment ive got a switch in my glovebox which i switch on myself at 90deg, this keeps the water temp at a constant 90deg. There is currently only water in the system, but it behaved the same with G12+ which it then leaked from a burst hose

    ive got an external oil cooler so its not the oil heating the water up either

     

     

    the g60 has 2 temp senders i belive one could be shot replace both (some will comfirm this)

     

    i know theres the 2 sensors blue and black which are on the front of the head these are water teperature, and theres the radiator fan switch which is 3 pole in the rad itself, and another little sensor which is next to the fuel pressure regulator (i have this disconected) which is to run the fan after the engine is switched off

     

     

    so do people think my issue of killing exhaust baffles, and lumpy idle (the lower idle) is to do with timing? had a friend suggest if its overfueling that it will destroy baffles..funily enough it used to shoot flames on my old supersprint system...

     

    cheers to all, i feel abit better about her just reading all this lol

  25. Posted

    the cam belt timing has been done as per the guide on this site, and the dizzy timing as done by a merc specialist using his fancy snap on gun (i had a print out of the guide form here)

     

    i will double check it has not moved tommorow but i dont see how it would have...

     

    to clarify, i want to hold the revs at 2000rpm and make sure the mark on the flywheel that does not have a 0 next to it should meet the marker on the gearbox housing at tdc for cyl 1

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