tandino

Who in their right mind would spend 6k+ on a damaged repaired Corrado? Ok its got fancy seats and has a bit of history but come on?

Dont grind the lip off whatever you do!. Thats the bodgers way of doing it. The lip has spot welds all the way round its circumference joining the inner and outer arch together, Grind these welds away and you will let the shell flex due tothe inner and outer arches not being joined anymore and this is a monocoque chassis... Its also Technically an MOT fail...........

Oh Yes - Job Done!!

Site was a bit glitchy when i added the post, froze when i hit submit!! - End result 4 posts! (in fact it still is - page isnt refreshing after hitting submit...... Cheers Jim P.S - can you clean up my remaining 3 redundant threads in here?? Cheers Pete.

Well i bought this car from Nigel two weeks ago. Great base but it had a few little gremlins to sort out, main one was the ABS being non functional, Drivers side rain seal lifting from the top of the door/base of glass. No Radio and no front speakers (i got a set of Audiscapes). Set about getting her upto scratch for the MOT which is due on 1 month. Checked everything possible on the ABS and decided the two supply relays were u/s, two new relays and voila, ABS working perfectly. Stereo installed and i fitted a set of Fosgate Comps into the Audioscape Pods, Job done, tidied up all the stereo loom whilst i was there. Tinted the rear lamps red, front headlights were split and detailed black round the edges of the reflectors. Front and rear VW roundels painted black. Drilled the airbox on the inner wing side only to avoid heatsoak, sounds great even with a stock paper element in the box (the way im going to keep it).... Have the Miltek cat bypass for after the MOT test, Got a great set of wheels for her this week shod with Yoko's brand new Hi Performace tyre - S-Drive.. TH MOno's in 8x15 et 25 with 195/45's... Hope you like When i bought her..... How she sits two weeks later.... Timing chains are coming up next, going to rip her to bits in a few weeks when its my next long weekend off work. Then posibly a set of cams and a remap at Stealth is on the cards. Cheers Pete.

You can get a repair kit for the lock barrel from VW. The internals that turn inside the lock are made of shite cast ally and it breaks. Fiddly job but do-able, cost of the kit is about 18 quid for both doors. If you phone up your local VW dealer they should know exactly whats gone and be able to supply you a kit. Parts you want are:-21,23,24,25,31

Well ive repaired broken plastic (Sons quad bike) using a soldering iron.... Guess it depends on what your doing and how think the plastic is.....

Whats the ET on your fronts?. Not the same rim but similar in profile ie Dish size, i ran Schmidt modernlines in 9x16 on my VR Highline and they were ET15 on the front to clear the calipers to give you some idea.....

Good call. A few independants do it with a oil change for about 150 squid perhaps a bit less. Other than the sump strainer issue and the PCV updates they are a solid engine. Check with Saab to see if yours has had the recall for the most upto date PCV mod

Nice car Andy. 2000 will be the 230bhp not the 250, 250 came along in late 2001 with the facelift. Most ofthe 230's make nigh on 250 anyhow especially during overboost. You might recognise my username over on UKSaabs - think im member no.3 :lol: , helped out on there since it was born with my mate David who started it all (now dearly departed God Bless his Soul), Used to own the car love of my life - Tuned C900 T16S which i built up from a bit of a dog. Lets say it was one of if not the quickest back when i had it.. TD04 15t-6 Turbo (9000 Aero turbo), Volvo FMIC, Water Injection MSD Boost timing master ERL MF2 Injector driver 8 Injectors etc And a gearbox made of swiss cheese :lol: First thing you want to do with your 9-5 is get the sump dropped and the strainer cleaned....trust me on this...

Yeah reading a good one on the Tex atm. I think im going to order the other bits over the next few weeks and pull the box off soon then. My mate owes me a whole load of favours so ill get him down to assist seeing as ive pretty much rebuilt his E34 540i manual over the last few months Cheers for setting the record straight - wish you were wrong though :lol:

Ah Bollocks! Confused withthe rail and pad from last time!!! Humble pie dished up!

I know that it pivots on the pin, explain how i managed to do it on my Highline unless it is completely different?

Hi Guys Goingto be changing my upper tensioner over the next couple of days. Car has 155k on it now and sods law when it had a clutch a few thousand miles ago there is no evidence of them doing the chains or tensioners!. I did the upper tensioner on my VR6 Highline a couple of years back along with a new tensioner bolt due to the existing tensioner bolt becoming seized in one position!! - cue slack chain!! Despite what people say it is possible to change the upper pad without dropping the gearbox off 8) Obviously at some later stage i will get the box off and do the lower set. Pete.

Your only supposed to use genuine VW G12 coolant in VR's. Never heard of that one before..... So what of the VR's that were produced in 1991 before G12 was commonplace? I would say that if the coolant he has used is pink then it would be either G12 or the later G12+ anyhow.... Other thing to check - is your Auxilary water pump working? Mine failed when i was on track at Goodwood once and luckilly i spotted it before the coolant threw itself all over the bay......

Cheers Dude. Seen that pic before over on 38. Looks great. TH lines would be my ulimate but the price is a tad high :lol:

Sorted. Relays werent clicking on ignition on so led to believe U/S - obviously pump was not priming on ignition on due to no supply from relays. New relays from VW arrived this morning. First impressions are favourable - not been out for a drive yet but the relays are clicking on ignition on, ABS light comes on and and dims slightly as pump primes and the ABS light goes out. Off for a drive now but ive got a smile on my face 8)

That looks pretty similar in size to the cooler i had on my 20vt Golf, Of course you are going to get a little pressure drop over any large cooler but i would say looking at that cooler it would flow pretty well. As a comparison i junked the Merc Sprinter i/c on my car which had a much smaller volume than the Ally one i replaced it with (which is very similar in sze to the one in the picture). When i fitted the Ally cooler i had to re adjust the actuator as boost was peaking approx 3psi higher than with the sprinter cooler fitted.

Just tell hi mto f*** off. Why bother mincing your words, Quite clearly the guy is a tool and deserves to be told as such. He was offered the car with an MOT and he refused. Tought S.H and 1 T

Just bought a set of Anthracite 8x15 TH Mono's for the VR6 (Pearl Classic Green). Anyone got any pictures of a nice ickle Rado wearing a set? Cheers Pete.

Hi Can you put up a picture of the engine showing the ABS pump and things close to it. Back of engine back near bulkhead underneath the expansion tank - you cant miss it! Also realys are behind glovebox, you need to remove the lower passenger side dash panel and look up behind the glovebox area - again you cant miss them!

Well ive just bought both the ABS relays from VAG, one works out at 11 quid and one is 13 quid. Fingers crossed now but seeing as im not even getting a click from either relay when i turn the ignition on and the ABS pump is totally silent im hoping its a relay/power supply issue......

Check to see if the front sensors are 'handed' parts, ie os and ns. I had this problem on my old 325i i bought years ago, garage had replaced front ABS sensors and fitted them on opposite sides. Once id fixedthe burnt out ABS wiring (ABS problem no.2) i drove the car down the road and nearly ended up in the back of the car in front.....

Are they defo both working - ie from a working ABS system? Whadya want for them delivered?

Has anyone got approximate prices of the two ABS relays Grey relay no. 79 Black relay no.179.