kentyboy

when you are used to PAS and it fails on you as you are about to do a u turn you certainly have a squeaky bum moment,having 225/40s on doesnt help,it just wanted to go straight on...my cab doesnt have PAS and that has 195/45s on,thats ok to turn till you come to parking up..............

all sorted,somehow it turns out that i have a vr6 power steering pump on my kr..........? nice light tight steering now though...........

yep it runs a seperate belt to the alternator,will investigate that one,maybe that is the 2.0ltr setup?

have you checked the cv joints,had one work loose in the summer made a thudding noise,under drive and in neutral....

hi all and a happy new year to you all!! having a few problems with a steering pump for my 1990 kr 16v,mine failed last weekend,promply got on the blower to gsf,who very kindly delivered one to my friends garage pronto.....i removed the old one,fitted the new one...yaaay! went to put the pulley on,all ok.until i tried fitting the belt,then realised that the pulley was out of alignment,10=maybe 15mm outwards towards the wing than the other one.am i right in thinking that the 16v golf one should fit or are there any other dirivatives within the vw range that will fit as well.has anybody else had this problem? bit heavy trying to drive with no power steering,will end up with arms like popeye at this rate.... :mad: also what fluid should i be putting into the reservoir?

could be your clutch release bearing about to blow itself into a million pieces,how much free travel do you have on the pedal?

get yourself an oil pressure gauge fitted and rip the bloody beeper out,had this problem with mine about two years ago...either that or replace the clocks....well not literally ripthe beeper out,remove the rev counter and heat the solder and remove it,or just put a screw driver behind it and carefully prise it out,the oillight will still work, but with an oil pressure gauge you can keep an eye on things.....

yeeeeha!!! replaced the two valves with pipe....toasty warm now,does anybody know if they are available anymore,failing that its a trip to stevens vw dismantlers...

try hooking 12v up to the pump from the battery to see if it works!!!!! it might just be fubared...

sounds very odd that you have tried multiple metering heads and no joy...will have a look at mine tomorrow and let you know,you say that you are getting good pressure to the head! for some reason i think that you cant go far wrong as the pipes are shaped and to length..

ok!!!!! we now have hot water going into the matrix...and the pipe is hot as far as the little black valve on the out pipe....suspect valve? has a little warm air now coming out of the blowers,then goes cold after a short while...what size copper pipe do i need? or will the plastic type water pipes suffice? oh...to note,the small link hose between the two valves is not getting very hot...should it or not?

right....really weird one,left the car overheating last night...started it up today,no more overheating,fan cutting in and out as per normal...great....but....no heating,both pipes in and out appear to be hot but still blowing cold air???????

same as....have a friend that owns a garage,who also has one of those snap-on gizmos....works off compressed air....brilliant piece of kit...got rid of the air but still pressuring up..

well that didnt work....new header tank and cap,new thermostat......trying the water pump next....really odd,top and bottom hoses are getting hot,now the cooling fan has stopped cutting in,the hose end of the radiator is getting proper hot,but the other end is warm enough to keep your hand on,top and bottom,where the fan sensor is...can the radiator be blocked and still get top and bottom hoses hot?.....and why is it still pressuring up........

is it the starter motor that is clicking or a relay....and is it one click or a series of fast clicks? try turning the ignition to position no1 and find the live in to the starter motor and earth it to the solenoid connection,it should turn and start....if it does,you may have an earth problem or as on previous post,an ignition switch problem....

check wether or not the isv valve is operating or not...also that the 5th injector is ok,remove both and clean out with carburettor cleaner,you should get a load of black gunge out,also ensure that all the vacuum pipes are connected and the pipe from the injection unit to the throttle body has no splits or leaks,and on the bottom of the same pipe should be a valve,if this does not seal properly the engine will not start,just cough and splutter and cut out.......sounds silly but also check your distributor cap and rotor arm,had a similar problem with mine,replaced these and was good as new...

question? if i am not losing any water,and have no water in my oil or oil in my water,could it still be the head gasket?......really weird...purchased a new header tank and cap,also a new stat this morning,shall try these first...

right.....next steps are,new header tank cap,or does anybody know when you buy a new tank if you get the cap as well? then thermostat....i figured that the water pump is working because of the pressuring up..also have now discovered a pin hole in the top hose onto oil cooler.......

just removed the inlet and outlet pipes to heater system,blew down the inlet pipe,and a load of water and air came out,re filled system and ran up,still getting very hot,the top rad hose is now swelling up,would a shot thermostat give these symptoms or not,am i right in thinking it is on the bottom of the water pump?

tried the squeezy thing,and expansion cap looks ok.......it appears to be in the heater pipes,one is hot the other is cold.....

no not losing any water,just getting very hot with no hot air in the heating,was fine before i changed the oil seal.....

help!!!! have had a good look through forum and cannot find a straight answer...have a 1.8 kr 1990,scene of events are as follows,had a little leak of oil from the oil cooler,removed the water pipe from the side,removed the oil filter,replaced the seal from between the two blocks. put a new oil filter in,topped the oil up and the water as lost some from removal of the pipe..now have engine overheating and no hot air in cabin....was running fine before this,heater pipes are hot going in and cold coming out!! could there be an airlock,if so how to release it....can anybody help?

yay!!! at last... :D spoke to hayes branch of euro car parts about the master cylinder,they fell about laughing when i told them that slough branch had told me that the cylinder was no longer available...it cross references to at least two other models and head branch at wembley had a rake of them on the shelf...fe##ing idiots at slough need some product training me thinks..or the lazy bast##ds need sacking for being useless at sales.....any way,new parts ordered :tongue: should have the old gal up and running very shortly..... :clap:

as i put in my previous post gsf told me that they do not list the master cylinder,euro say that their supplier does not produce them anymore..but i can cross reference it to other models,have not had chance to get to my local vw dealer yet to compare prices and availability....

yep as suspected,1990 passat,golf and corrado all have the same part nos.....surely they havent stopped producing for all these models!!!! shall be giving euro a call in morning