Jim Hughes

I did exactly that.

I replaced the ignition switch with a Volkswagen part.

This is now sorted. I soldered a new piece of wire into another switched live (+12V) off the back of the plug that connects to the ignition switch. Wierd one though, the key/barrel mechanism is purely a mechanical device which transmits its function through the ignition switch?? The ignition switch does the electrical switching, so I would have thought by installing a new switch it would fix the problem. Unless the original wire was breaking down due to age??

Hi, Fitted a new stereo last week and having issues. At first it worked fine, then it went off whilst driving, I thought a bad connection or fuse etc. None, after a lot of investigation I find that the stereo works fine when the ignition is in position 1-2 (engine not running) but when you go to crank to start the power to the stereo drops out and the only way you can get it to power up is by pushing hard down on the ignition key (force applied in direction of steering column) and wiggle the key in the barrel. I was tending to think this was an ignition switch issue, I replaced that yesterday - no improvement I have tried two other stereos in and the problem is the same....

Today at Lowick (Cumbria) You were in the Silver one going towards Spark Bridge, I was in the Silver one going opposite direction. ---------- Post added at 4:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:42 PM ---------- Today at Lowick (Cumbria) You were in the Silver one going towards Spark Bridge, I was in the Silver one going opposite direction.

You can't polish a turd.

Door membrane it was. I would never have thought it would be... It was all off at the top and bottom of the door especially bad around the speaker pod area - all the foam on the door card at this area was sopping wet

Cheers Stonejag, The car was delivered to me from its garage via trailer, it sat on my drive for a few days while I sorted the insurance tax etc, during that time it rained heavily. That's when I noticed the pooling of water in the footwells - so I'd like to think not driven in. The last few days around here weather - wise have been frosty and dry, today it rained, the car has not moved the carpets are soggy so I figure it has to be rain water leaking in. The Boot carpet is not affected.

OK folks I appreciate this one has been done to death - I did a search last weekend. My new Rado is showing the above problem. I've only owned it two weeks after having an accident in my previous one of 12 years, It's a bit of an unknown quantity but I know from its condition that it has been garaged all its life, it is pristine. But, it does leaks in - not good. Checked the seal on the foliage filter - still factory fresh but I put a smear of silicone grease around anyway. Sent a draw wire down all four Sun Roof drain tubes - no obstructions. Like I say it is only both drivers side footwells (front being the worst). Can anyone truly convince me it might be the membrane in the door? I'm really struggling with that concept - surely the door fabric would show dampness etc?? I mean the height of the lip? the door would have to be half full of water? I did also read that Talc is a good aid for this? are we talking sprinkle it all over the outside around likely leak spots?

VW Owner, I'm pretty new to this too..(my first accident) But, the way I see it, once you've had a smash involving another party your vehicle becomes the property of your insurance company etc recovering losses even if it is on your own drive like mine! I was informed if my car had been a 'cat A' total loss I could not buy it back.. In effect you are not buying it back, you are accepting a deduction from the total loss pay-out to dispose of yourself, I think it has to be a common sense move from the insurance loss adjusters who realise that their customers are sometimes better placed to 'recycle' a car on a Classic Car Policy! I had thought my (old) car was repairable from the outset, but my new Rado is the bloody biz!

Its been classed as a class C total loss, so repairable and I can buy it back. The provisional price they value it at (as long as paperwork stands, MOT etc) minus the price they will deduct for me to hang on has made my mind up . I'll keep it and break it. The deduction on the payout price to keep is £170 - nobrainer.

Many thanks to replies and advice. Obviously I'll have to wait to see what the insurance company offers, If I do decide to break is there anything I should especially look to keep for myself? I know indicators/lights etc are rare and I'll be able to save the drivers side units. I'm starting to think not much else is going to be worth hanging onto? my new C is an 'L' plate 09 engine as opposed to the old KR and the interior and switches/stalks are all different. Of course I'll keep my repaired old door handles.

Hi folks, Two weeks ago I was involved in an accident in my Corrado of the last 13 years, it was my first accident in 22 years of driving so I'm a bit new to this! I have not mucked about and I've replaced it with a very nice example (Corrado) which I was lucky to find local to myself. The insurance assessor has been to look at my crashed car (it's on my drive) but I was not in when he made his visit, it cannot be anything other than a total loss, it's a J plate with fairly extensive front end damage - bumber, front panel, lights bonnet, wing. My Insurance company's Accident Management firm have written to me and informed me the other party have admitted liabillity for the accident. Various people have informed me that I will get an opportunity on the salvage and I'm fairly sure I was told this when I took out the policy. I was thinking someone on here may have been in a similar position? if I do get the chance to buy it back is it worth putting on e bay as a whole car? or strip it for parts? Thanks in advance Jim

Part Number on invoice - 357721401 I can't fault my local dealer (Hadwins of Lindale Cumbria) they have been more than helpful. They advised that: if it appears no longer available in the UK, that might not be the case in Germany.

Lost all clutch last Friday! Went to the dealers with Leon's welcome advice (worth following). My Vdub dealer informed me they had managed to find one from Germany (replacement for my 90 'J' plate), from a local specialist who was willing to supply a new part for a left hooker, a digi photo was supplied and I was confidant it was similar. £115.00 + VAT = #~ £140 similar to doing the later CMC conversion..... I did not want too, or have the tools to make up the 'new cunifer swaged pipe down to the slave'. Do consider 'Cracking' the above union when the CMC is away from the bulkhead and not 'round the nut like I did'.Once the CMC is away you can apply heat easily and safely. My new CMC came with non-threaded (blank) 7mm fixing holes... Tap them out to M8 and fix-in the m8 studs with liquid thread-lock. You are not going to be able to Nut& Bolt that job easily - trust me. ' Back fed through the nipple after gravity bleeding - Job's a good un!

Gents, Cheers for your advice - much appreciated. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow to see a picture of what is on offer, then will visit some some scrappys for pedals. Yeah I've 'bled the system' last weekend, drove it tonight and it's a bit of an improvement. But, the pedal sticks at the floor at the worst time, pulling up to traffic, drive engaged! You have to stick your foot on the brake and stall it. You have to think about it..... overwise your in someone's rear. It's not the slave, I put a clamp on the 'flexi' and eliminated that for the time being! Ah well, own an old car, it's bound to be entertaining. I will report back - have a good weekend fellas.

I'm not making any headway with this at all. I spoke to someone at GSF yesterday and they say that they can only supply a CMC for the later cars 93-95 and they cannot advise if this will fit my car. Spoke to my dealer again today who tell me they too, can only supply the later item (93-95) but they will have to order from Germany and that will require a commitment from me ( Has anyone on here fitted the later CMC to and early (1990 valver) and does it require much modification? I really don't want to scrap my car over this......

Cheers Jaime - much appreciated. I'm struggling to resist the temptation of shooting the old girl between the headlights and putting her out of her misery! After 12 years of loyal service! But I've just had the headlights re-silvered at a huge cost to get it through another 12 months MOT! (Yet another part no longer available) I'm not scared of re-engineering a similar clutch MC to suit, I mean this device is not reinventing the wheel is it? It is a hydraulic device which operates the clutch. Piston, cylinder, fluid seals etc...

Spoke again to the dealer today and they say they can supply a part (clutch MC) for a 1993-95 Corrado part no - 358721388 Will this fit my car? my car is a 1990 1.8 16V. Like I say, would really welcome some advice right now.

Hello, Tried the local motor factor and it was very different - they say it's the only one they can get. Tried the dealer and they tell me no longer available! I can't seem to see one on the GSF site???? Eurocarparts list one but show no picture - so a little hesitant bearing in mind what I got from the local MF. Any advice would be very welcome. Jim.

The battery I replaced over 6 months ago which I had ruled out as not being a 'cause' as IT WAS BRAND NEW. Assume. Assume - Never Assume Anything, As It Makes An Asse of Me and U! :cuckoo: I returned the above back to the car a few days ago and it would not turn it over at all. :eek: I went back to the supplier of the battery with ALL the evidence, they said: " Yup we've had a lot of trouble with that make of battery, it looks like they are ALL sh1te - we'll get you a new one from a different manufacturer" FFS :censored: :mad2: :bad-words:

Hello Folks, Just thought I'd update this one for the memory banks. I visited the dealers with regard to changing the Altenator brushes, drew a blank to be honest (they wanted exact details) to be able to supply the exact parts - which would mean taking the Alternator off, or I was being fobbed -off. I was just about to buy a new Alternator off Flea Bay when I decided to try a different battery - instant result. I've been disconnecting the battery when left over night, and left for any considerable time, all is well - car starts no problem-at-all, hot or cold. I can only be left to conclude that there is a current draw on the battery when not in use, (usually, no more than a few days). There has been just enough amps to effect one start, but after a short run it has not been enough to replenish the charge in the battery, hence no ' hot start' . I must admit I suspected this a long while back :cuckoo: but with a multimeter connected in 'series' at idle (no electrical circuits on) there was no-more draw than 0.5 Amps. :shrug: Any way - never mind that, hope you have a good Christmas and all the best for 2011 :salute:

Hi again. Supercharged - I'm going to change the Alternator brushes asap, if they are worn (probaby) they will be short in length and they will be at the end of the 'spring push' giving possible intermitent results. David - Timing: I had the car booked into the only garage I trust, only to find that they had chucked out their timing light as they had no customers with the old type ignition on their vehicles, except me :nuts:When I was doing the poss/ neg leads and gearbox bush work I noticed that one of the vac pipes related to advance /retard was disconnected, but as I fixed this at the same time as the other issues I was not sure it was related. I will endeavour to find somone with a timing light. Matt - Ignition Switch :? hmmmm.... like I say I've owned the car 12 years from 60k and to the best of my knowledge it's never been changed. Is it a known problem area? Very, very, rarely I've turned the key for ignition and nothing has happened ie no turnover but I could count on two hands the amount of times this has happened. Still many thanks again for all your suggestions :notworthy:

I've been out today for a few journeys and it has been no trouble at all (starting hot & cold) Fact: the car is not a daily user, and truth be told when it does get used it does not travel huge distances, last week it had been stood for a few days idle in freezing temperatures, yesterday when I had the trouble it took a while to start and when I think back I had the heater fan on full for the whole journey before it let me down. I'm begining to think that the extreme cold could have had an influence here, and, with the previous history I've had over this problem - I've jumped to the wrong conclusion. :roll: However: My understanding is that the hardest start should always be the one from cold. I've got a spare fully-charged battery and jump leads in the car from now on, so hopefully will be able to rule out a few obvious issues. Still, thanks again for all your advice. :wave: I will update with any developments.

With Multimeter across battery posts engine not running - reading 11.99 Volts. Engine running reading - 13.80-98 Volts. And now the worst bit! the engine is now starting fine when hot :mad2: