Jim Hughes

Thanks for the advice folks. Stupidly I'd not even thought of alternator! (It's a J plate car @ 120K on the original) :cuckoo: You do tend to go down blind alley's sometimes. I have a Multimeter so will do some checks later.

Done a quick search and nothing exact or similar. 1.8 16 V KR series. Been struggling with this problem for too long now and could do with some advice. Over 12 months ago I replaced the starter motor with a new reconditioned unit due to slow turn over when hot, (replaced gearbox bush at same time) not much improvement but would start well when cold and only just start (slow turn over) when hot. Leave it for half an hour and it would start no problem. Replaced battery with a new one 6 months ago and this made a small improvement, then about 6 weeks ago after standing for over a week would not start at all. Turned over way to slow and fouled the plugs. I was not convinced it was the starter motor as I'm on number 4 now! (I've owned the car 12 years) Replaced all positive/negative cables to starter/battery and all earths & added extras, replaced gearbox bush again with VAG bush, greased shaft well (bush end). Put it all back together and the problem was solved, turned over rapidly when cold and hot, never has it been so good - I was a happy fella :D Now after 4 weeks of bliss the problem is back with avengence. Starts ok when cold, turns over too slow when hot. The only option is to leave it to cool or get a bump start - this is starting to get very embarrasing. :mad2: Read some other probs on search and they mention about solenoid and live trigger, the solenoid is clearly getting it's signal and operating as the starter is turning the engine - all be it slowly, it's almost as if the engine has massive compression when hot, or its a temp related resistance issue. :shrug: I'm completely out of ideas now and would appreciate any suggestions. :help:

Hello, Both front and rear are shot on my 91 J plate 1.8 16V where do I find the best replacement, value for money and all that, I did a search about 12 months ago and there were some to avoid. Any advice would be very welcome. :shrug:

I'm with Adrian Flux at the moment and have been for the last three years. I have my other car and my house insured by him also, is it worth a long phone call? :sleeping: Mine is a 1,8 16v with modifications - 17" wheels and a Scorpion S/S Exhaust. Any recomendations?

Many many thanks for your superb advice Colin, I replaced this sensor today with the correct "Yellow one" the problem with the cooling fan is solved. I owe you a pint fella :cheers:

Think I could have had that eureka moment :cheers: The sensors are colour coded right? The one I replaced was so old and knackered I guessed it was the black type, You could not tell the colour, the only thing I knew was when I wiggled the spade conection the fan cut in and off! I ordered a new black one, the problem stayed. They are wax filled - correct? resistance issue. If it is supposed to be yellow the tollerence will be different from a black one right :cuckoo:

Thanks for the reply Colin, I replaced that sensor first thing when this problem started. It didn't change a thing. If you disconnect the wire/spade connection the fan stops. If you then short the wire to the head the fan starts, likewise if you reconnect the spade connection. Also if you disconnect the battery ie the earth then reconnect the fan does not run, It only starts to run after the ignition switch has been turned to starting position and then returned to the off position. :shrug:

Hello, The above comes on when I switch off the ignition and would stay on till it drained the battery. I have dissconected all the temp sensors and reconnected to suit in an effort to eliminate a faulty one, the fan stays off when the ignition is on and cuts in when the engine is too hot. but as you will gather as the fan is disconnected most of the time, I can't carry on like this in hot weather! I have ruled out the thermo/time switch on the radiator as when you unplug that it makes no differance to the problem, any advice would be very welcome. My car is an 91-92 J plate 1.8 16v :shrug: Oh, BTW I think it could be a short, the Battery drains after a a few day of non use.

I know I have mentioned this as a: ' sensor' but I believe you describe as the valve. When you say valve clamped open, how do I do this?

bled the front calipers- ' Gravity' ie just 'backed of the nipples and watched the fluid till it was without bubbles', then did the furthest away from the master cylinder with my helper; 'pumping the pedal then holding it down whilst I cracked the nipple.then tighten the nipple and repeat the process. I went out for a brief drive this evening in the car: and -it- was shear- bloody -scary -for the first few miles.Then I realised if i applied the brakes; ' sharply' - instant jab A sure pedal was their..... a slow pedal application resulted in very little feedback and the faint veer to the right. I am going to buy one of them; ' pressurised bleed kits' from Halfords this weekend, I think for the price of £15 it will be worth while as I might be changing the master cylinder next! any advice would be truly welcome. PS. I have not bled the brake system since I reconnected the load sensor.

Brake servo vacuum line? boost monkey ignore my total ignorance, I have not got a clue what this is :scratch: I have just checked the fluid resovoir and it is at the same place as two weeks ago- the last time I bled it. I have had the car for 10 years and now it is failing, you see i only use it now-and- again, maybe this is the problem! But brakes, I mean it ain't Rocket Science......

No evidence of fluid loss at all, once the pedal goes to the floor-if you pump it a couple of times it comes back solid. After bleeding the system on numerous occasions, I have felt that I have fixed it as the pedal has been strong. Only to get a few miles down the road and it goes to the floor :eek: I have only had a master cylinder fail once and that was on my Mk 1 Scirocco, That too was after major brake surgery. but the result was no pedal at all- and fluid everywhere. Can anyone provide me with a link for master/slave replacement? and rough idea of cost? :(

Hello, After replacing the front calipers on my J plate 16v corrado I have been unable to get a consistent firm peddle.I have tried bleeding the system on numerous occasions but no luck, sometimes it is ok - then the peddle will go straight to the floor with the car veering slightly to the right with vague braking at the wheels. I have asked at my local part supplier who supplied the parts and they suggest it could be the load sensor, I straight away checked this and found the spring which conects this to the trailing arm had come adrift, I reconected it hoping this would have fixed the problem but no.I am now thinking that the seals in the Master Cylinder could have failed whilst I have been bleeding the system, but I am clutching at straws, and after spending a small fortune on the car lately I could do with some welcome advice. Thanks in advance. :scratch:

Change the dampers at the same time, as A-J said there is a ring/collet which needs replacing which after rusting - need's removing with an angle- grinder or similar if you are stuck for time like myself . also the front mounting points of the suspension may need further inspection as they too could require replacement, if you do not have the time of day to sit trawling this could be usefull.

It went for its MOT today, Failed,the rear beam/axle - forward mounts the passive ones I believe from the pivot point. How much and how hard to put right? the garage where it is at are both reasonable and competent, do I leave them to do it or is it an 8 hour job and an expesive part? are special tools required to fit the part? Thanks in advance Jim

Many -many thanks for your replys folks, I ordered the parts from my local dealer today and they confirmed it was a common promblem. Ifeel ashamed to admit that the car felt a ' little loose at the back-end for a while '. Buggeration, ALL -was- not -connected. Tut ; I thought it was a: Speaker problem. :shock:

Is it a VAG part? Can you get it from Euro car Parts? Is it expensive?

Hello, I took my j plate 16v Corrado off the road at the end of spring, and noticed (as I thought) the drivers- side factory spec rear audio speaker had come adrift. It had'nt, the shock absorber/ strut assembly had punched it out!.....Basically I can move the strut top around about an inch- and yes the top nut is still 'on' and tight. What lies beneath this? has some-sort of rubber bush split and gone astray? ( I have had A few Scirocco's) and am familiar with this arrangement. Yes I am being lazy by not having a closer look but I need to get the car on the road soon, and by asking the question I can order the part. Do the job once, Simple. :wave: I have no manuals to go by but then again, I have owned the car since 1998-Ihave not needed any! funny ......