Timbo

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It's basically a really small file. I think they're mainly used by watchmakers and the like. I used them to make the three pronged triangular bit on the end, which you obviously can't do on a lathe. If I had a 4th axis on my milling machine I would have used that... Yeah that was a bit of challenge. What I did was use an M8 bolt with a nut on it to screw up against the interior of the aluminium housing and push the new swivel bit down. It wasn't too bad once I'd figured out this approach. To be honest I found poking the wee wires through the hole when mounting it back on the car more difficult, though the wind and rain might have had something to do with that. :brickwall:

So I woke up the other day to find my drivers side wing mirror hanging off :pale:. Some tit got a bit close, clouted it then drove off? No, it was parked with that side to the pavement. What possesses someone to deliberately cause damage like that? It's not like they're gaining anything through theft. They're not even getting (twisted) satisfaction from seeing my reaction to their "handiwork". A couple of other people on my street had the same treatment. Makes me :bad-words: and causes much :censored:. Maybe :hitler: had some good ideas. :mad2: :censored: :bad-words: Anyway, I was resigned to having to find a new mirror and paint it. Turns out that they weren't particularly good vandals, and only managed to snap the bit that the mirror swivels on. A bit of work on the lathe and some swiss files later: A bit of body filler was necessary too, but it could have been worse.

So I'm getting the "Rear outlet valve" fault code on my VR6 ABS pump. Judging by past discussion this is often found to be an electrical fault stemming from the use of thin film ribbon cable within the pump. I've got hold of a cheap spare and I want to inspect the internals of it so that I can a) figure out if it's feasible to fix the broken one in situ on the car (unlikely, I know) b) replace the wiring in the spare so that if I do fit it I don't have it failing on me shortly after I fit it. However, I can't for the life of me figure out how the cover comes off. There are two allen bolts in the back of the cover which I've removed, but it seems to be being held in by something else. Whatever is preventing it being dismantled seems to be under the plug. Any ideas other than breaking it? :)

To be honest I reckon getting that sort of thing is overkill. The cheap ones work fine once you get the knack of it; they're just a bit... cheap. If you were a garage and you're doing a entire car's worth of brake lines every other day or whatever, then fair enough though.

Have you actually got your hands on the parts yet? The part number you quoted is essentially the same as the one I've got -- the first three numbers indicate the car (e.g. 1H0 is a Golf, I think). If you read the pdf I linked a couple of posts ago it says what's going on. Basically, in 1994 they changed the means with which the clips fix to the axle from a T shaped fixing to a threaded rod. I would imagine that 99% of Corrados with original axles have the T shaped one. The clips I've got with that part number are for the later style axle. You can't get the old style axle any more by the way, so I wouldn't be surprised if the clips were unavailable too. Having said that, I never gave any of that information to my local VW guy, only the part number, so that doesn't necessarily mean they're not available any more. If they are, it'll likely be the same number but with a different variant suffix, i.e. A or B. In any case I'm not really bothered as I've gone with the epoxy method; it's a bit clunky but it does the job and is plenty secure for the short distance involved. When I first had the axle off the lines had all been fixed to it with zip ties by some crappy garage, so anything is an improvement really. Yes they are used MK4 calipers; I think I spent about 40 quid or thereabouts for the pair off ebay. They just bolt straight on fine using the Corrado carriers and brake pads/discs.

Unfortunately as I suspected, the part number is for the newer style clip. You can make it work by tapping it and using epoxy to glue it on more securely, but it's not pretty. Perhaps 797A or B is the correct one, assuming it's available at all now.

I think I may have answered my own question. Pages 16 and 17 are quite interesting: http://doc.vwclub.org.ua/suspension/b4/b4_42-01.pdf. From that, It does look like 1H0 611 797C is the correct part, but from what's being said in this thread it might not be available. I'll post again once I've been to the stealers...

[i'm cross-posting this from the suppliers forum, sorry if this is frowned upon, but I think the people that might know won't be looking there too often] I'm in need of the little plastic clips that hold the brake lines to the rear axle, indicated by red arrows in the photo. Staring at vagcat, my best guess is 1H0 611 797C: http://www.vagcat.com/p/B084/083500.png http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1993/76/54/845989/ The one I think it might be is 15, which is described as "retainer / F >> 50-S-000 361 1 point /". Assuming "1 point" means it holds 1 brake line, that sounds like it could be it. On the other hand it's placed on the diagram in a place where it looks like the clip should hold two brake lines. I want the clips that fit the solid brakes lines (10 and 11 in the diagram) to the axle, but there are no clips shown in that place :bad-words:. Anyone got any bright ideas/thoughts?

Staring at vagcat, my best guess is 1H0 611 797C: http://www.vagcat.com/p/B084/083500.png http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1993/76/54/845989/ The one I think it might be is 15, which is described as "retainer / F >> 50-S-000 361 1 point /". Assuming "1 point" means it holds 1 brake line, that sounds like it could be it. On the other hand it's placed on the diagram in a place where it looks like the clip should hold two brake lines. I want the clips that fit the solid brakes lines (10 and 11 in the diagram) to the axle, but there are no clips shown in that place :bad-words:. Anyone got any bright ideas/thoughts?

I reckon he means these things: Which, coincidentally, I also need. Vag cat doesn't seem to be much use. There are a bunch of numbers it could be, but it's not obvious :shrug:.

Yeah I realise you can't say that they're all split at the axle definitively, I was just wanting a general idea if it's normal and it sounds like it is. Thanks for the info.

Yes that's helpful, thanks. Guess I should have searched :roll:. Question still stands about after market exhausts though; most pictures I've seen look as though there is a joint above the rear beam. In other words, are there any after market exhausts where the middle and back boxes are one piece ala a precut VAG one?

Simple one really. Am I right in saying most aftermarket exhausts are split between the middle and back boxes and thus don't need the rear beam to be dropped in order to fit them? I only ask as I have my beam off at the moment to replace the bushes and I might as well do the exhaust at the same time if there is no option. It looks as though the OEM exhaust does require the rear beam to be out of the way though, right?

It's probably worth mentioning that I had to upgrade the drivers for the USB serial emulation to actually get the "Latency Timer" option.

:notworthy: I think I owe you a pint or two. It's not even a serious problem:

Which junction box are you referring to here? VAGCOM doesn't see my ECU either.

Well, having got a cheap ECU (50p off ebay :lol:), it seems like it's not the problem. Having looked at the wiring diagram in Bentley, I'm no longer sure what relay 79 does. It's called "ABS Relay" (helpful :roll:) and seems related to the ABS pressure switch? Furthermore, when 79 clicks on ignition, it sounds like a valve actuates in the ABS pump itself. 179 on the wiring diagram says "ABS Return Flow Pump Relay". Intuitively this seems like it should only be closed when the ABS is actively working? I'll try attacking the whole system with a multimeter and continuity test all the connections, but the general condition of the connectors seems relatively good, so I'm not expecting a problem here. I'm a bit confused why I don't seem to get anything out of VAG-COM, given the engine diagnostics work perfectly. I've got a USB ODB2 cable, are these known to be problematic with ABS diagnostics at all? It's frustrating that the ECU is apparently working but I can't get any diagnostic data from it.

I don't think that'll be the problem since as far as I can tell the ECU isn't active. Certainly VAGCOM is no help here. In other words I can't actually get to the stage where I'm able to get a pump diagnostic. Thanks for your help though. Another thing that occurs to me is that relay 79 could still be defective despite the fact that it still clicks.

I have a few queries: 1. Behind the glovebox I have three relays; a 79 and two 179s. Searching the forum seems to indicate that most Corrados have only two relays here, those being one each of 79 and 179. This is a 94 VR6 without aircon and with a dealer installed immobiliser/alarm. Why have I got three relays as opposed to two? 2. From searching the forum it sounds like 79 is ECU power and 179 is pump power (ignoring my extra 179 for now). Correct? 3. I have a permanently on ABS light, which only became permanently on after I fixed the deliberately cut PCB track in the ABS warning light, so a previous owner/garage is obviously trying to hide something :censored:. If I hook up VAGCOM I can't get anything from the ABS ECU, it complains about communication errors. When I switch the ignition on 79 goes on then off a couple of seconds later. 179 doesn't appear to do anything. If I then start the engine I get the same sequence repeated. What sequence/timing should I expect from the relays? The relays seem OK to me, electrically at least. It looks to me like I've got one of two problems; a gubbed ECU or an ECU power problem upstream of relay 79. If anyone has any other ideas I'd like to know though :shrug:. Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance...

You like sucking off your exhaust?... and you go through lots of rubbers? :camp:

Fixed my sunroof using parts from a manual Seat Toledo sunroof :D.

Ah OK, that makes sense. Cheers.

Bentley seems to (fairly vehemently) advise against using DOT 5 brake fluid, but I see a fair few references to folk using it on the forum. What's the deal?

This did indeed turn out to be the heater matrix... and what a total mare of a job it was to replace too. The old one was seeping/rusting at the top, and there was a little puddle of black antifreeze/water/crap/rust/leaves/hair at the bottom of the distribution box. Besides some antifreeze getting impregnated into the little paddles that direct the air around, that was it, so I reckon I've got pretty lucky all things considered. A little bit more rust and it would have gone pop properly. Anyway, thanks for all the advice and I sincerely hope I never have to remove the dash ever again :clap:.