radness

Might be worth checking your fuel pipes around the pump as this happened mine a few weaks ago (fuel started pissing out) but the car still ran and the pump was ok. Like all pumps they don't like to run dry and if there is a blockage going to it it could've killed it?

Hey guys, I'm about to replace the thermo switch on my corrado 16v 9a as it's gone. I looked in the coolant tank and can see a few bits floating about, i also know that once i remove this switch that coolant is going to gush out. My plan now is to drain the coolant completely and then replace the thermo switch then replace with the coolant i purchased today from halfords(i know i know but vw service centers are miles away from me and i did a bit of reading and i hear this pink coolant is pretty much the same as g12). I think i have just plain water in my coolant system at the moment :( Ok enough rambling my questions are this; 1. Can someone please post a pictureo f the hose i need to disconnect from the bottom of the radiator? I assume it's on the passenger side from what i've found using the search feature, but if you have a picture i'd GREALY appreciate it :) 2. Do i simply remove the thermo switch with a spanner or is there more to it? 3. I read the guide in reference to flushing coolant, is it ok to just leave the drain off and run the hose into the system while it idles? Will the cold not be bad for it? 4. Is there anything else i should be careful of? I'm a complete noob :)

Oh, lol, i feel silly now. It's funny how things so simple never come to mind :)

Perhaps not strange to some of you but I have no idea what this component is, it starts on the left hand side of the engine bag and finishes over on the passenger side, the foaming thing pointed out seems to adjust it, i can move it about 2 inches to the left or to the right..... pardon me but....wtf is it?

Guys, where do i need to check to fix my reserve lights? both are on as soon as i turn the ignition on, they also stay on when in reverse too, it seems something is shorted somewhere but i dont know where to check, already took the rear clusters apart. :brickwall:

... adjusting CO correctly: £0. How does one do that for £0? :lol: From what I've read you need an emissions tester in the exhaust sniffer pipe and monitor this while adjusting it? or am i wrong?

I have milltek and powerflow cat, no filter change. So noone have tried a chip and it's helped? I know ideally someone who looks at my car by itself would produce a better result than a chip designed for "all 9a's"...but chip £40, remap £200+ :( Chip really bad idea?

Whats the CO? , i'm such a newbie. Yeah i knew it'd affect higher revs but i also nooded around 3000rpm + it seems to have changed something. i was expecting more pull around 5000 revs though, it just seemed to have happened, seems like it's running low on fuel around 5000-6500, like it could be getting more

Guys, I got the KR cam put into my 9a but i haven't noticed as much an improvement as i'd have hoped. A mate told me i need to chip it so the fueling is up and so the engine can take advantage of the new KR cam. Theres a chip on ebay from a german seller which has good reviews from one or two of my mates, is it worth a try or does the 9a "learn" from a number of trips that it now has a KR cam? As I have read on here that the KR cam seems to get better over time. :shrug:

Yup, located it, wasn't disconnected but the wire got trapped when putting the distrubitator back on, managed to get it out (cable a little damaged but i taped it) and it's now reading correct! :D thanks a lot for the help guys, i guess 160 is the max our oil temps can ever read :)

I haven't had a look yet, but i was thinking about it lastnight while i was trying to get asleep...does anyone else do this? Anyway, a good bit of oil was spilt on that side of the engine (passenger side) , does oil act as a conductor?

Thanks, Will have a look under there in the morning. But knowing me i'll be back requesting pictures when i can't find it :norty: lol Thanks for the tip, you guys are a helpful bunch :D really glad i found this forum!

Ah, so the head would need to come off to reconnect it?

Hi guys, A good friend of mine fitted the KR cam to my 9a'er. First and only mod i've done so far. I took it out for a drive for 20 minutes , wasn't horsing it but i noticed it did pull a bit better from 3000 rpm, and felt a bit more lively, however i used the MFA to check the oil temp and it's stuck at 160c, the coiolant is showing around 80c. Before this cam went in the engine only ever showed a max of 115c (due to my radiator switch etc..) I would assume that 160c is the max value that the temp sensor can report and so it's a fault with it, as surely oil tempature of 160c would cause my coolant temp to go skywards? I went inside and left the engine off for 20 minutes and after i turned it back on it was still at 160c, i assume something this hot would cool down quick (atlteast by 5-20c in the space of 20 minutes) Would something be disconnected? The guy that did the cam for me is a good guy and knows his onions and i dont want to go accusing him of anything as im sure he hasn't done anything wrong.but maybe i need the check a wire or something?

Ah I found the switch thanks guys, ok when i short it both fan speeds work, should i permantly set it to the medium setting by keeping it shorted or should i really fix the problem? What needs replaced if the medium setting isn't coming on when it should be 90-100c water

I tried this, i pulled the connector (3 wire) off the rear of the fan, and connected the terminals on the fan itself to short them, nothing happened......am i doing something wrong or/and i stupid

Ah...I thought that 3 wire thing was the actual power supply to the fan so i didn't understand how you guys were shorting it out. :scratch: So It's only a switch? I'll give this a try tonight and see what happens. thanks for the response

I tried the spare key when i couldn't turn the ignition key and it made no difference, i assume there must be something sticking inside this. How hard is it to replace, will i need new keys aswell? The other morning i spent about 7 minutes inserting&removing the key until it finally turned :( Wouldn't like this to happen if i was being chased by a mad man lol. The engine problem hasn't occurred again, i think i worked out what was wrong, as it's in the evening (when im in a rush to get out of work!) i was turning the key without waiting a second or two for the fuel pump to pressurize. lol, from the sound of it, it seems to take 2-3 seconds before it goes silent again.

Anyone? :sad:

Guys I look at my engine bay a bit confused...while trying to do what you suggest :( where do i "short" the wires on the fan to test to make sure it isn't my rad switch thats not allowing the 2nd (slow speed) fan to come on? it's really starting to annoy me, i don't have a haynes manual yet and i'd like to get this sorted, if someone could take a picture or two of what i should try "shorting" out, i don't want to be an idiot and short the wrong thing, i assume i pull off the 3 wire plug that connects to the rear of the fan and do something here? but what? im a bit clueless :cuckoo: and only end up with hands covered in muck after half an hour poking around my engine bay deciding on what to tinker with :gag: lol Just to be clear, it's a 9a, i have that relay thing beside my coolant, my fan comes on at 100c coolant and 110/118 oil :( It's worse when im sitting in the drive though with no air flow, feels like i could be cooking the burgers on my engine block, as soon as im moving i have no issues, all stays at 90c coolant 100c oil, thats normal right? Please help :clap:

Hi guys, In the past 3 weeks i've had trouble starting the car twice, basically it turns over ok but the revs go real low and the car kind of splutters like it's struggling for fuel, the first time it did this was in the evening after leaving my car sitting for 8 hours, it just died once i had started due to the low revs. Eventually i thought about starting it while pressing the gas pedal to keep the revs above 1.5k this worked and after about 5-10 seconds it started fine. This happened again yesterday and it happened at the same time of the day, after leaving the car for 8 hours and returning in the evening, again it required that i gave it gas while starting it up as i could sense it was about to stall/die (was sitting in neutral). What would you suggest I look at? Another issue is, sometimes when i insert my key it won't turn in the ignition, i tried reinserting it about 6 times and on the 7th try it was able to turn the ignition, is it common for the ignition lock to cause issues or should i look at replacing my key? (i haven't yet tried my spare key, need to go and locate it i suppose! :D) thanks Ps it's a 94 16v 9a corrado

That means the thermoswitch is only working at the second stage (ie it's 'failed safe') - cheap and easy part to change (30mm spanner needed) 1 = 84-91c 2 = 95-102 c Can you show me picture of what you're changing here and what the part number is please? I'm a bit of a newbie :) I have the exact same issue, drive the nuts off my car and it stays below 90C (water) and 100c (Oil) but drive slow and sit in traffic and water goes above 100c and oil 118c (it seems to be getting a bit higher), I opened the hood when it was this hot and the fan was going, but didn't appear terribly fast, and it stopped after opening the hood. I do think the temps are right as the bonnet does feel pretty hot to me and people have commented on the heat from the engine bay. I checked my coolant and it's pretty dark and dirty, is this old age? It states that it uses G11, should i upgrade this to the new coolant? Is there much advantage as i did read a bit of the process and it seems a bit risky with getting air in the system etc... :( Also, one last thing, my coolant level is half way between the top of the container and the "max" fill line,(appears to be over filled) is this bad? whats the best way of draining it?

Sorry, forgot about this thread, naw it does this when their is no air blower on. When i put my finger against the vent it stops squeaking, i'll try some grease on them, see what happens!

I'd love to know this too, only information i can find on it, on this site and on the internet is it being used in a turbo setup, why has it not been tried in a NA setup, has someone tried it? What did you find? Perhaps because their duration is less but the opening is more (someone correct me if im wrong) it would require more air flow.i.e. forced induction? to take advantage of this hence why they're only used on forced induction cars? Someone tell me if im talking complete balls lol

Thanks ! :D Found fuse box, took steering wheel cover off and reconnected the wire for the horn, all works! You rock :notworthy: