J-Lynch

Dox if the powerstroke is #1 the fuel is injected on stroke #3 where the piston pulls vacuum on the inlet before it's finally pre-compressed for igniting. This pressure increase drives the boiling point of liquids down so even though the temp increases massively the more fuel atomization the injectors do for it the better.

Geeba I've asked the question so hopefully I can twist his arm and there's some interest on here.

So I did manage to get hold of these guys. Here's what I got; New message from: osidetiger (5,033Green Star) Our injectors will work just fine at 3 or 4 bar. Please note that running at a higher bar level than the factory setting may make you car run rich. It’s common practice for injector manufacturers (like Bosch) to only recommend the OEM injectors as replacements since they are not in the business of upgrades but would rather offload new old stock from inventory. Our injectors are a much more modern injector with advanced spray pattern, solid stainless core, and improved response times. The injectors are refurbished by us in the U.S. as far as we know they are exclusively sold by us so there is currently no other supplier we can vouch for. Many of our overseas customers either have a family member, friend, or service ship to them. Just a thought. Thank you again for contacting us. Might look into if any couriers can do this. Though I'm really hoping someone on here knows a man who can in the US and is wanting some of these. 😉 Either way in pretty convinced these are a good way to go for NA setups to squeeze out a little more of what we want out of these VR lumps 😊

That is odd I wasn't even expecting a reply, never mind the definitive answer direct from Bosch. Ths is for sharing that is quite interesting. So the ECU is calibrated the factory bosch I'm Still curious how sensitive the setup would be to something with better spray. Found these on eBay which claim to be an upgrade to the factory boschs but are just rebuilt with quad spray nozzles. I thought the stock ones were quads but since I seem to have lost the them over my stupidly elongated rebuild time I don't actually know... Here's the link to them. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192463934408 Fully refurbished with the 4 spray pattern upgrade(?) Seems to good to be true at the price... Sounds like nicely balanced injectors will do wonders for performance though

Has anyone tried fitting newer injectors to the VR 12v for better spray pattern? Seen a few videos on YouTube demonstrating old vs new Bosh spray patterns. There must be improvements on the 12 valve setup to be had where the fuel has to find its down the intake manifold way past valves and stuff.

Ive had my vr612v rods machined/resized with arp hardware installed to the torque spec. What i really want to do is install them as recommended using the stretch method by measuring elongation. I realise the torque figure is an estimated figure to give desired clamping force and not as accurate as measuring the stretch. Has anyone out there experienced any problems when these are rods are machined and then installed like this. Im probably being ocd, but when it comes to getting this stuff right, I want to be![emoji6] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Did you gauge your vr6 up? Im also trying to find which one is most usable for the VR too. If its the crankshaft your gauging with new bearings the standard limits are .01mm-.06mm for big end and .02-.06 for main bearing. Sofar i cant find one which measures lower than .018mm. The red plastigauge is looking best for this as coveres .025-.175. Ive just had my rods machined with arps. So im not sure what to go for assuming im on the tighter side of the spec.

This is the upper guide as fitted ! Notice the middle mounting hole has gone. The bolt was still fitted but the only thing it secured was the metal ring and a bit of plastic that should have been attached to the rail. Not surprising it made allot of noise.

Hi Rodger, sorry for the slow response. I did indeed, changed the broken guide rail and there was no need to remove the gearbox/lower cover etc. Mine has the early double row upper chain setup. The bit that looks tricky is that the thermostat housing slightly interferes with the guide when pushing it in but there's enough flex in it to get past it. Nothing serious just a gentle push does it and the lowest mount peg guides it in perfectly. Ps. Anyone know the OE brand of these early double row chains? Noticed the tired(ish) chains I'm running are stamped Sachs France. Any ideas?

Thanks for all the responses, I was kind of stuck in limbo thinking that I had slipped a sprocket tooth. Thanks to you guys I did not try to reverse this process which would definitely have left my timing buggered! It was simply the noise of cranking the engine with no combustion that made me think the engine was free wheeling as in no compression. But it wasn't. Dead surprised how much it sounded like noisy electric RC car though but sure enough got it back together and it fired up first time. Dreadfully noise gone! Still have the chain rattle between 1000 and 1500 rpm engine is allot smoother and quieter in general. Still haven't taken a pic of the broken guide rail, will post it up soon as I do.

The upper guide rail was the part broken. You can easily remove and refit this, as the lowest fixture is a pin (green arrow) that the guide slides onto and the rest bolts up behind the upper chain cover. (not my pic) Sounds like a good way to check actual TDC, I''ll do this when the weather is better. Mic, I hadn't thought of Chain stretch, but makes perfect sense as that would leave the cams lagging. I did have it in my head that if the intermediate sprocket slipped past the chain there would be less of error/ lag in cams than if the chain slipped over the cam sprockets. Thought this would happen due to the smaller diameter of intermediate sprocket. Thinking about properly, actually the effect of the int' sprocket slipping would be the same as the cam ones slipping. As all the sprocket teeth must be the same length as chain links. Can anyone confirm this. If so, you must be right about not being a slipped chain because I have jumped the cams ahead one tooth, and they end up way too far.. Thanks guys

Here's what both the cam grooves are looking like when TDC is set by the crank pulley notch.

Haven't physically checked Cyl 1 for TDC but sounds worth checking. Should be able to do this through the spark plug port with a second pair of eyes. I've fitted the new guide rail to correct as which only requires the top cover to come off. So this should have corrected any error in the taught side of the chain, however cams are still out of phase. (both behind by less that a camshaft sprockett tooth. This is why I'm fairly sure athe intermediate shaft upper chain sprocket leaped forward by a tooth. Luckily there were only 2 large pieces still in situ which I got out no problem. So still hoping not to have the box off. ;). Otherwise :banghead:

Hi coullstar thanks for the response! before I took it apart it did rev nice and smoothly, however now it seems like the upper chain has slipped a tooth somewhere. The cam grooves that you use to lock up at TDC aren't quite horizontal. So effectively they have somehow become slightly behind the rest of the engine timing. Will post pics when I get near a PC.

Hi folks, About a week ago my vr developed this loud racket from the upper chain area. The upper chain guide rail is often the cause of noise as its the most prone to failure and luckily there not too hard to get at, so.. I've set out to replace the upper chain tensioner guide rail and tensioner bolt. Stripped down the intake and got the rocker off. Turned the engine over a few times with starter to check oil was flowing up properly. All seems ok but do it again, this time the motor sounded like it was spooling up for 3/4 of each revolution, like it had no compression... I could see it was still turning over, but each rev the chain was dropping slack between cam sprockets for a moment. It's like the rear camshaft is rolling forward a little, spring powered by the valve springs or something. So I have set TDC with the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam shaft grooves ready to put in cam locking plate. These groves should now be horizontal allowing the locking plates to slide in, but there not quite there in the clockwise direction.(The cam rotation is behind) It's only by half a cam sprocket tooth or so, I'm thinking it must be that the intermediate shaft sprocket has jumped advanced by one tooth. Anyone know if it's possible to slip the int' sprocket back a tooth without removing the lower chain cover? You can generate quite a bit of slack with the guide rail and tensioner bolt out so it does almost seem possible, if not bloody arqward! Speaking of the guide rail I did find it in pieces broken down the middle fixture leaving the lower part free to flap about. Anybody had this issue? Most gratefully for any advice, anything to avoid transmission out job!

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Just stumbled upon this thread of gold dust info whilst looking for an answer to why my aux pump isnt working when its brand new. I thought the same thing that it must be blocked or something. Oh and why my horn mysteriously stopped working at the same time! (He says whilst sat in his living room with the fan control module) I had actually decided earlier to have a butchers at dismantling it as I heard that the copper or solder tracks can burn out leaving aux pump in the lurch. How mine started was actually when the (B***t**d of a) 'rad neck' did its notorious disintegration and then blew off the hose whilst I was hurtling down the A45. It left my car completely covered in coolant! I was instantly left with no aux pump and no horn. A bit strange I thought. Im gonna go check the fuse situation out, put the module back in and see what the score is. Any advice on dismantling the module aki? if it turns out that im in the same boat you were? Any info that anyone else has please feel free to share. Many thanks, James

I have a K reg Vr6 running reasonable coolant temps (below 100) and usually the same for oil under normal driving/weather conditions. The other evening i was driving her when i could smell coolant coming through vents. What happened is that the top hose had blown off the rad neck completely and dumped all my coolant all over the car! My rad neck flange isn’t in good nik anyway with half the length of the straight pipe broken off, so I wasn’t that surprise when this happened. But after refilling system (with water) and allowing to self bleed, I noticed that the coolant pressure is running much to high. The hoses are actually bulging, quite a bit aswell. I know that the Expansion cap allows the system to vent pressure if it gets soo high. But i replaced the thing a year ago. The other thing is my aux pump. About a month ago a leak spouted from the Aux pump seal, so i replaced it with a new bosch one. When fitting it it came to my notice that this one made a noise...... 'Oh ok this one actually works then'.... So basically i realised that my aux pump has been deadf or probably the whole year i had owned the car! Not good Again, since refilling the coolant and running car, it looks like this one has packed up as well! :brickwall: I know that its function is to assist cooling of rear bank of cylinders so possible cause maybe a warped head blowing into coolant or something? But the engined running great. No mayo, no oil in water Im gonna have the pump out tonight hopefully and check that theres no debris in the impellar. Can only hope! Does anyone know if the pump is switched with a relay in the fuse box or something? Anybody else had this, experienced problem similar.? Share the wealth.