mikehiow

I plan on a set of coilovers, RARB, possibly some AP 4 pots (or just some braided lines/pads/discs) - But I need to find someone with 4 pots to have a go first, before I decide. And then I plan to gradually build up to exhaust, intercooler and injectors which, with a remap at each step, should be good for just under 250bhp. I did originally look at the Arctic, but Vauxhall failed to paint the bumpers the same colour - they look almost yellow, so that was a no go. As for chavs racing, yes, it happens, I've not come across anything faster (in a straight line) yet, but I doubt it'll be long. Funnily enough, the closest match has come from a 150bhp Mitsi Colt CZT - they look shite, but they are rapid little cars.

Thanks for the comments. It's extremely difficult to compare the Corsa and the Corrado. The first thing that caught my attention was the lack of interior rattles and squeaks in the Corsa :lol: In all seriousness, The Corsa certainly feels faster than the Corrado, making peak torque from something like 2k onwards - it's certainly nice not having to wait for 3.5k to come around. It's a similar weight and power, but has much shorter gears, I think in a straight line, there wouldn't be a lot in it, but I think the Corsa would edge it. Handling wise, the Corsa feels a lot more dialed in, and feels a lot more stable at speed - you can find yourself doing 3 figures without even noticing you'd got there - although, this may be partly due to the car being 14 years newer :) Overall, I certainly don't regret the decision, but I certainly do miss the VR sound :( Jim, I didn't end up paying anywhere near the figures we discussed in the end, and it came out at closer to £200, once the proceeds from the Corrado were stuck down as a deposit. They are group 16, and if it wasn't for putting the other half on the insurance, I would have only been paying around £100 more than the Corrado to insure this FC (Corrado was TPFT). It Does look a lot "fresher" than the alternatives, I looked at 207GTI's which were boring, and very dated inside, as well as a Clio 197, which just felt cheap inside. The Corsa isn't the best all out performer, as the Clio will edge it on track, but it's the best all-round package imo, I found the Clio to really suffer on ride comfort on it's hard suspension.

A month or so ago, I sold my VR6 to make way for something a little newer, I simply got fed up of things going wrong :( I must say, I do miss it - perhaps one day I'll find a nice R32'd one The old beast And it's replacement, an '08 Corsa VXR: No Vauxhall comments please :lol:

You guys want to try driving on the Isle of Wight, before you complain about your roads.

Point taken. I haven't fitted it. I bled the clutch again (as I had suspicions we did it wrong last time), this time pressure bleeding - I've had fantastic results, works perfectly. I'll just have to wait and see if it stays that way.

I'm fairly confident mine is A late one, and the other is an early. No chance of it fitting then?

Will it fit? Mines completely gone now, I have a G60 one in my possession as a temporary measure.

Do you have another battery you could at least borrow, just to try? Sounds to me like the battery has had it, to be honest.

Cleared and checked today, the issue shows it's self the moment the engine is started. Front right valve, and near left valve are showing up in the fault codes. There was a brake pedal position sensor fault, too, but it didn't return after clearing the error (It had been cleared about 4 weeks previous, however). Looks like it's a new ABS block then. It seems every time I fix a problem, another arises. Since changing my full ignition system, it's become apparent there is excessive oil in no.1, my clutch master cylinder needs doing, as does the ABS. For reference, changing the latency to 5 did the trick (device manager, properties for relevant com port (or usb->serial device), advanced settings).

It's said you should run power and RCA's down opposite sides of the car, however, I've never done this - and never had a problem - I'd say you're fine as long as you have half-decent RCA cables. I think it's just theoretical practice tbh. Perhaps it may be an idea to run them down either side of the tunnel. My cd changer cable runs tucked up under the plastic centre console trims, under the removable cushion on the back seats, and into the boot.

Thanks, that answers a lot of my questions, last time I bled my clutch, I filled a jar up with fluid, stuck a bit of hose from the bleed nipple to it, and pumped, A poor mans eazi-bleed I guess :) But I'm wondering if I didn't notice the clutch feed in the reservoir and allowed some air to get in, it seems unlikely, but I think I'll try a quick bleed again before changing stuff :)

So it's merely a case of telling someone the thread size on either end, and the length needed, they make the pipe, then I fit it? Edit: I've just found someone local who can do this, I shall get on this Monday morning :) Sounds easy enough! How did you stop fluid pissing everywhere, is it safe to clamp the hose? I don't really fancy emptying all of my hydraulics :( (I assume the clutch can't be emptied independently of the brake system, as it'd just pull more from the reservoir, or am I missing something here? I'm learning slowly, but I'm getting there :)

I had it read a while ago, there were three errors, although I forget exactly what they were, something about a valve, amongst other things. No, my ABS doesn't work. I assume the plug you speak of is on, or around the ABS pump somewhere? I will change the latency settings (5 for the record) tomorrow, and give it another go.

I appreciate the advice Pete, however, knowing these are good for now, it'll at least, get me going again - although, in afterthought, the slave on mine has been replaced already, so I will just grab the master first. The part is coming from a friend (and a member here) - it's in known working order, and if nothing else, will tie me over, if only temporarily. Here is what I was quoted for the clutch hydraulics from a friend at a dealer, your estimates were pretty good :) I would however, be interested to hear how you did the braided line, what's required, where you routed it and where you sourced it from, this sounds like a far better option imo, it eliminates the pipes from my problem, and I'd imagine should give the clutch a better feel? Also, I've been looking for information on the easiest way to get to and change the master cylinder, can you shed any light here?

Thanks for the kind offer millerman, I have a friend with a snap-on tool, I just wanted to get mine working. Also, Thanks Toad, I'll look it up :)