Roan

They're about £35 now. Check the price of the Sharan part with VW as it is available without the intake tube unlike the Golf/Corrado/Passat VR6 part.

????????? The last Corrados were built in 2nd week of June 1995. . You're right, I was mixing it up with my old Golf VR6. :nuts:

Mine was first registered on 30th April 1996. Last one ever sold in NI and probably one of the last registered in the UK. It was built in October 1995 though.

I'm in the process of converting to a 288mm Golf VR6 front brake setup but due to having purchased a set of Goodridge hoses for the original brakes only a few months ago :cuckoo: , I'm trying to avoid shelling out for a complete 4-hose set from the Golf VR6 for the new brakes. I came across Hosetechnik at the Autosport show last weekend, and looked their website up when I got back. On the website you can create a custom set of hoses, using lots of different fittings etc. and get a price instantly. I'm also contemplating the VAG aluminium rear caliper upgrade, so it would be interesting to compare prices for these hoses against the Goodridge Mk2 - Mk4 kit. Are there any experts on here who can tell me: Type & size of banjo fitting to front caliper required? Length of hose required? Type and size of screw fitting? Cheers!

If it's happening only when the car's warm might it be the O2 sensor? I have the same issue, but I've got new HT leads and the coilpack was replaced about 2 years ago as well. :confused4:

I've never had any problems with T1-Rs, excellent tyre for the money!

Changed at 150k. No rattling but the tensioners were worn through to the rivets. :shock:

I recently picked up a set of calipers, carriers and discs for the above, thinking they would be the same as the late Golf VR6. The discs are 288mm, but the calipers and carriers look identical to the standard Corrado 280mm brakes. On closer inspection, the calipers are indeed stamped as Lucas/Girling G54 :confused4: If the calipers are Lucas/Girling G54 the same as the 280mm standard Corrado ones, how can they have been fitted to the larger discs on the Ibiza? :confused4: The only part numbers I can see on the top of the calipers is 32327385/F and H212... Same as these on ETKA: http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/se/IB/2002/254/54/4735407/

The whole point of the series is that it assumes that any hobby mechanic can do the work so there is no 'cost' for labour. Granted, some of the tools/equipment are unlikely to be owned by the average hobbyist, but Ed either improvises (i.e. the cabinet/bottle jack transmission lift) or suggests borrowing/renting stuff. I've been watching it for years, in spite of the illiterate Brewer and his "oldoutyawandfellalezhaveadeaw!" etc etc.

I'm intending to replace my throttle cable soon as I have the same feeling even though the throttle body has been cleaned out. It looks like there's some slack in the cable, even after adjustment so after 15 years I think it's stretched. Anyone know how much they are/should be before I phone the dealers?

Bit of a thread resurrection here, but I have the same issue and wonder if you got it sorted? I'm reluctant to change the fan switch and the yellow sensor but as the stage 1 fan kicks in when I bridge the contacts, I'm wondering if it's a faulty connection instead...

Anyone? :help:

I've just taken most of the dash apart to find a short (blowing number 21 fuse as soon as it was put it) which turned out to be a half-melted instrument cluster loom (cause or symtom? I hope cause :| ). I've separated the wires and taped them up with insulation tape and so no more blowing of fuse number 21. Brilliant! (or so I thought). I've just connected up the instrument cluster and although the clock and odomoeter reads OK, nothing else works - speed, rev counter, fuel gauge, warning lights etc. The connection to the fuse board for most of the loom is on connector U2 (http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html) and a few wires are not terminated like those two in the pic below I'm not sure if I've pulled something out whilst wrestling with the fuse board or if these should go anywhere... I'm also confused with the terminals on top of the board (where the two grey and one green connectors are in the pic below) - what are these for? Should the black connector with the thicker black wire in the pic below go anywhere? Could I have killed my instrument cluster somehow or am I missing something obvious? I hate car electrics... :help:

When I plug in my vagcom cable into my VR6 (OBD2 type connector rather than earlier 2x2 type), the LED doesn't light up (ignition is on) and VCDS tells me that the cable isn't plugged into the car. Is there a fuse for the OBD port? I have a feeling that my electrical short (I can't put a fuse in number 21 without it blowing straight away) might be the culprit.. and I can't find what is causing it either :mad2:

Having read this guide and just about everything else regarding the VR6 cooling system, my car is still leaving me a bit confused. My coolant temperature climbs to 105 before the fans kick in - could this be due to a faulty/gunked-up radiator switch and/or yellow sensor or something more serious? I bridged the stage 1 contacts on the radiator switch plug and the fans came on, bridging the contacts for stage 2 resulted in nothing happening. Could this also be a faulty fan control module? I have VAG COM arriving next week sometime so I suppose I should wait until I've scanned the car but if anyone could shed any light in case the scan shows up nothing I'd appreciate it.

Could be a knackered gearbox mount

Cheers gents, I thought as much! I'll go somewhere I know which definitely do know what they're doing..

I've had a few bushes replaced on the 'rado (VR6) and took it along to get the alignment done at a reputable specialist. As I expected it was way out and the car was handed back to me with the printout. The car was pulling to the left (and the steering wheel moved noticeably counter-clockwise when I let go of it on a flat, stright road). I took it back and it was further adjusted but I was told that it could be the tyres having been worn unevenly. However, after a 3500 mile road trip, the pulling to the left is still there. Looking at the printout again, the camber and caster both seem way off but I was told these are non-adjustable - this isn't true is it? If they were non-adjustable then the settings wouldn't be so far out of tolerance surely?

I also have high pressure in my VR6 cooling system. Replaced Aux Water Pump, Heater Matrix, Expansion Cap (with blue one), and Crack Pipe, as well as flushing out the system twice with non-corrosice cleaner. No sign of oil/petrol in coolant, no white smoke from exhaust and compression tests etc are all fine. Car sits at about 102 in traffic and drops to 90 on a motorway run with the top hose being very firm after a drive. No leaks but I'm wondering whether it would be prudent to change the rad and water pump? I also think the yellow temp sensor and fan switch could do with replacing as the temperature readings might just be out after 150k miles and 15 years...???

No, original central locking & immobiliser AFAIK. Just disconnected the make-up bulb, glovebox bulb, interior light harnesses, ashtray lamp, cigarette lighter and the boot bulb and it's still shorting. :censored: There's a full 12.5 volts coming out of that fuse location - is that what you can expect if there's short in those circuits? I HATE electrics! :salute:

The weird thing is, the central locking works... maybe it's been spliced onto another circuit so it'll work. Also, the glovebox light works just fine... :help:

Hoping someone with some basic auto electrics knowledge can help me out on this one too... This #21 fuse has been blown since I got the car, so no interior lights work nor does the cigarette lighter or the MFA memory (all on fuse #21). Popping a new 15a fuse in blows immediately. Is it a case of taking one bulb/harness out individually and trying a fuse to isolate the circuit which is shorting out? I have a rudimentary knowledge of electrics and own a multimeter. :help: Also, it's fairly urgent as I leave for a two week trip through Europe in a week and need the cigarette lighter for my iPhone (Sat Nav)!!!

One of the things that's annoyed me since I bought my VR6 is the sloppy throttle pedal. There doesn't seem to be much travel on it (i.e. it sits a lot lower than the clutch & brake pedals) and you can lift it up a good 2 or 3 inches from underneath. It also seems to move laterally as well which doesn't seem normal. I suspect it's blunting throttle response too and I really want to get it sorted. Could the solution be a new throttle cable or can I do anything else to tighten it up?

Thanks to you both for the suggestions - never thought about an air lock being the problem. I had considered a stuck-closed thermostat but as far as I know the car isn't running hot, just very pressurised once warmed up. I'll mention this tomorrow to my mechanic..

My '96 VR6 has been with my mechanic for a few weeks now, getting all manner of stuff done (a mini-restoration to be honest). I've had the heater matrix replaced and the system flushed and am currently awaiting a new auxiliary water pump which was leaking. My mechnanic now tells me that the coolant pressure is off the scale after a run of about 15 miles and has ordered a new expansion tank cap hoping that will solve the problem. The car exhibits no other signs of problems (no mayo as far as I know and didn't notice any when I bought the car a few weeks ago nor any white smoke from the exhaust). Would this point to a possible headgasket failure anyway? Could the fact that the auxiliary water pump is leaking be a contributing factor?