aclwalker

Where could I get these SPAL or Kenlowe fans? Would they require a different cowling (I've just bought a new cowling!)? Thanks

Thanks. I see one that is "genuine" and it appears to be sold by http://www.vwspeed.co.uk. Has anyone had dealings with them? Do you reckon the fan is genuine VW?

Anyone know where I can get a VR6 radiator fan (the motorised one of the two) from? I had ordered one from GSF for £68+VAT which was a great price considering VW want £280+VAT. However, the one they got in was a Mk II Golf one, incorrectly labelled. They checked all the others they had in all the branches showing them and they were all incorrectly labelled. They say it will be at least a MONTH now before they could get one for me! ECP want £100 and their website says they're out of stock too. I really don't want to pay £330 for a motor with a plastic fan attached to it. Any help appreciated.

I'm getting more than my fair share of problems to deal with this summer with the VR6, but last night I noticed that the second fan on the radiator is not turning. The belt has come off, so I withdrew it while I work out what to do. This probably explains why I have had occasional overheating. I've ordered a new belt from Verve but they said "there's none in the UK so we'll need to order one from Germany", so that's a 4-5 day wait. Just the great service I've come to expect from the dealer network. Anyway, the old belt hadn't snapped but has gone that kind of plastic way that old rubber goes. However, tonight I tried to refit the belt while I wait for a new one, but I never managed it. Is there any way to do this without removing lots of stuff? I managed to get it hooked around one pulley, but trying to get it round the main one with the motor was nigh on impossible. Is the best thing to do is maybe remove the motor, hook the belt round the second pulley, then the motor pulley, then lever it into position? While I was at it, I tested various sensors for operating the fan. I found a very useful thread here which explained all about it and how to test for the three speeds. The third speed (rightmost temp sensor when facing engine) worked fine, as did the after run (leftmost temp sensor). I couldn't find the radiator temp switch though (first and second speed). Is it the connector about half way down the right hand side of the radiator (i.e. just obscured by the battery)? I have one of those large Bosch Silver batteries and I just couldn't get the connector off. However, if I remove the battery I can't then test the sensor easily! Also, I've just done an ECU reset and would hate to have to disconnect the battery once again. Any tips on all this then? Thanks

I've just found another thread that talks about 4 sunroof drain holes. I only found the ones at front so I'll check the rear ones tonight...

A week or so ago in Glasgow we had literally monsoon rain one night after weeks and weeks of dry weather. When I went into the car a few days after this, there was literally an inch of water in the REAR passenger side footwell, but the front passenger, front driver and rear driver's side were bone dry. I was parked facing up a hill when it was raining. I experimented the other night with a watering can but I just can't see where it's coming in. I checked the sun roof and the water is draining away fine but I did wonder if the channel at the rear was a bit dirty, so I cleaned it up as best I could with the limited access. I have noticed in the past a slight dampness (which may just be general condensation) in the sunroof area (interior), but there was no evidence of this this time. I understand that a probable culprit is the membrane behind the door cards, so I'll check that next, but is there any chance of either of the following being at fault? 1 The rear side window seal. 2 The plastic/rubber strips on the roof where the roof rack would sit. I could see no evidence of water channels anywhere, not even on the leather seats, although I suppose it possibly wouldn't show up too well on leather. I am slightly suspicious of the sun roof. Is there any maintenance I can do there to help out? The drain holes are draining very quickly, so I doubt that's the issue. Can anything else be at fault here? Are there just drain holes at the front of the sun roof or are there rear ones as well? I couldn't see too well as the light was getting poor. Thanks.

OK, I fitted this at the weekend, but I didn't have my camera with me. It's a bit of a bugger getting the old leaf guard thing out but it's really a necessity. You then fit the filter over the top of it, but I've just suddenly thought that maybe I was supposed to remove the top plastic mesh bit to give it more room. Putting the whole thing back in was very difficult and required lots of force. It's literally jammed right against the metal above it but I got it in eventually. I'm sure it's distorted it a bit. I'll upload a photo of the filter that I took a few weeks ago before I started the job.

Nobody? :cry:

Hi all, I bought the Beru ZEF1260 HT lead set from http://www.vwspares.co.uk and have just fitted them but they are all an inch longer than those originally on the car. The originals were the red Beru OEM leads. The VW part number was identical on old and new (sorry I don't have it to hand). The Beru part number was the same except the last 3 digits, however. The originals ended in "102" whereas the new ones ended in "105". My car is the VR6 with the coilpack. Have I somehow managed to get the wrong leads in the ZEF1260 box (the box was correctly marked) or have I been running around all this time with the distributor version of the leads? To be honest the shorter ones fitted better, but I suppose it's no great problem. BTW, http://www.vwspares.co.uk delivered fast and I had no problems with them (depending on whether I've got the right leads, of course!).

Thanks for all the replies everyone. It was the Jetex one I've bought. It looks the business. The only problem is getting space to fit it. It really looks like there's only about a mm between the existing leaf guard and the metal of the car. I think the best idea is to probably remove the whole thing and join it to the existing leaf guard 'off car', then refit the whole thing. This gives the chance to clean out all the leaves are rubbish in there too. I'd still like to know how to get the plastic trim off though! I don't think it's bonded to the windscreen. I think it's actually clipped, probably those kind that you only see once you've broken them by prising in the wrong area. I've not fitted it yet. I decided to leave it for when I'm next at my parents where I've got proper access to tools. It's not ideal doing this sort of thing on a main road without a driveway and your tools are 2 floors up in a flat. I'll report back later when I get the chance to do it...

I was going to post a write-up of the addition of a pollen filter to my Corrado but I've hit a problem. I can't get the plastic bit of trim off the windscreen (external) to allow me to remove the gutter and get proper access to the cabin air intake. Does anyone know how to remove the plastic bit circled in this photo? I really need to remove it to get proper access. Otherwise the guttering will get really distorted when hauling everything out. Thanks.

Hi all, I recently posted about my MFA average speed being out but it turns out it's because the clock is playing up. I've done lots of searches for clock info but can't really find anything suitable so I thought I'd start a new thread specifically about the clocks. The (digital) clock on my '94 VR6 runs fine and keeps good time when the engine is off, but as soon as I start the engine it slows down to about a third normal speed, so 30 minute trips apparently take less than 10 mins according to the MFA. I took the dials out and checked for loose connections but couldn't see anything up. Any ideas what could be up here? I'm thinking it's strange that the clock runs fine when the engine is off but goes very slowly when the engine is running. I'm guessing that this might mean the clock is fine but something else is up. Does this make sense? I'm beginning to suspect something with the central locking and/or the various old disabled alarms in the car. The reason for this is that the clock only seemed to start running at full speed again once I locked the car with the key in the driver's door (with the window rolled down and me sitting in the driver's seat). I sat and watched the clock for about 20 minutes trying various things. I also started feeling around the wiring at the fusebox and got to the stage where the drivers door wouldn't lock with the central locking until I felt around at the fusebox again. The central locking has never been that great. For example I can usually lock all the doors from the inside by pressing the button down but pulling it back up again won't unlock them. Occasionally (very occassionaly) I've also heard the central locking pump do a single pulse for no apparent reason while driving along. Any ideas what could be causing the clock to run slowly as soon as I start the engine, but start behaving again once the engine is off and the car locked up? Could there be a link between this and the central locking? Could it be a problem with the voltage regulator/alternator? Any help greately appreciated. I would try new clocks if I had any, but I'm not that keen to try this since the clock only misbehaves once I start the engine (and so replacements might just do the same) and also I'm assuming that I'd lose my mileage reading with new clocks.

Thanks for the replies. Mine is a 1994 VR6. The really strange thing is that I can now confirm that the clock is working perfectly when the ignition is off. Once I start driving the car it slows down to about a third normal speed. Surely this shows that the clock is not faulty but that perhaps there's some voltage issue or something? If I swap over clocks and so on, do I lose my mileage reading on the odometer?

Hi, I've just done some more 'testing' and the clock is definately the culprit. Each minute is lasting about 3 real minutes. This is definately a new fault in the last week or so as the clock always worked fine (although it did lose a couple of minutes over periods of months before, but nothing to worry about). Did Einstein not say that time slows down if you're going too fast? :wink: Maybe I should slow down. Two other things I've noticed: 1 MFA setting 1 is no longer forgetting its settings after the normal 2 hour period. 2 I _think_ the clock is running at normal speed when the ignition is off, but I've yet to verify this over a longer test period. A dodgy connection somewhere perhaps? Also, the odometer, tripmeter and MFA distance reading all appear to be correct. So is the MPG reading, which is no great surprise as there's no time element in that calculation. As for swapping over clocks, what does this involve? Is it just the clock part or do I need to replace all the dials? How much is a new one etc?

Hi, The other day my MFA started to wildy over-read in the average speed. It was stating about 2-3 times the actual speed. I verified this by resetting it while at a constant speed and the result was the same. Positions 1 and 2 seem to be the same. Then yesterday my clock had reset itself to 00:00 as well. I reckon it must've done this when I started as it was bang on the number of minutes I had been driving for. Any idea what's causing this? It was very accurate right up to the other day. I'm one of these people that likes to use the MFA because it means I get to know the car extremely well as regards MPG, temperatures etc. and can spot problems pretty quickly this way. Incidentally, the oil and ambient temperatures seem totally normal. It's just the average speed, possibly the MFA mileage too (not checked it on long enough a trip yet) and now the clock. Any ideas anyone? Thanks

I'm going to replace both my front wheel bearings (and various other bits at the front). I have done a front wheel bearing on a Polo before and am a competent DIYer so would like to do it on the Corrado if possible. Does anyone have recommendations for drifts etc and where to get them to do this job? Any idea what diameter drift I need? It's a 1994 VR6, BTW. Thanks

Cheers Kev and everyone else who's commented. I was just worried that if I get the wheel bearings done (and the balljoints and tie-rod ends fitted that I've had waiting to go on for ages) that I might have to dismantle it all again for the CV joints. Thanks for putting my mind at rest regarding the differential "backlash". Any more details about what is meant by this term? Maybe you could answer another question that's been bugging me too regarding driveshafts? I hear that the long shaft is supposed to have a rubber donut to balance the shaft. Is this really important? I don't seem to have one and there doesn't seem to be any evidence of one being there at all (no band of different coloured rust, lol). Cheers. Now I just need to investigate my coolant leak that's appeared in the last few weeks...

The other day, I had an horrific metalic screeching/scraping noise driving off from cold which lasted about half a mile and then suddenly went. When the noise stopped, I distinctly felt the car freeing up a bit. The noise was loud enough to turn heads! It hasn't done this again (but has done the usual stuff described further up the thread). I jacked up both sides at the front yesterday. There was no play in either wheel bearing. There was free play in the driveshafts, however, when rotating the wheels back and forwards. Probably about half an inch of free play at the circumference of the tyre, before the driveshaft would then start to rotate too. There was a clicky, rattley sort of noise too when doing this rotating back and forwards (no clicking on the usual full lock CV joint tests though). On the driver's side, however, there was a bit of resistance at points in the rotation. This resistance was not like brake pad resistance and in fact actually caused the wheel to rotate backwards a short distance once I let go at the point of resistance. A brake pad wouldn't do this. It was as if the mechanics had jammed slightly and pushed the wheel back round in the opposite direction. I guess this could be the bearing or a CV joint. I'm going to try again this weekend but will remove the brake pads and try to listen to where the noise is coming from. The scraping and screeching was deeply worrying though. Any other comments are appreciated.

One more point I've just remembered.... Sometimes, when not accelerating as such but simply cruising on the motorway, I can hear a sort of rumbling vibration. I sometimes feels like driving over marbles or something. It's hard to hear the noise in these circumstances though, since it's drowned out by the road noise and engine noise at motorway speeds. When I slow down though to local road speeds and then accelerate, that's when I really hear it. Due to the slower speeds, it's also much easier to count the grinds and link them to approximate wheel revolutions. I guess I'll get the wheel bearings done first and then if that doesn't sort it I'll look at the CV joints. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. The noise does come on early on in cornering but now has also started doing it even when going straight. If I wobble the steering wheel slightly while it's doing it (while driving straight) it can make it subside then get worse then subside again. It's definately not a heatshield noise. All heatshields are secure and the CAT heatshield was removed due to a buzzing noise I was getting and the fact that most of the welds have broken off. I frequency of the noise is directly proportional to the wheel speed and I estimate that I get one 'grind' per wheel revolution. This itself points to something in the drivetrain. I reckon my wheel bearings could do with getting done. It's a very high mileage with unknown front wheel bearing history (rears are new). I just wonder if I should also get the CV joints done too. I don't get any clicking on full lock, but I suppose you don't always get that. The CV boots look intact. I've never heard of inner CV joints needing replaced. Has anyone had this done before? Can CV joints be replaced without having to dismantle the same bits need dismantled for wheel bearing replacement?

Ever since I got my car over 3 years ago I would occasionally get a grinding noise on acceleration. Recently this has got worse, such that I can reliably repeat it now. EDIT: forgot to say it's a 1994 VR6 Here are the details: 1 It only really happens in winter or cold days, but it's now happening more often so might persist this summer. 2 It happens after long fast runs at motorway speeds when I come off the motorway and then start driving around as normal. This is especially so if the motorway ends with those raised painted lines that get closer together to get you to slow down. 3 It only happens on acceleration. 4 If I press the brakes slightly while accelerating (tricky to do!) the noise is just the same. 5 It used to only happen when lightly cornering during acceleration, but is happening in straight-line acceleration too now. 6 It's a kind of rat-a-tat grinding noise... 7 ...the frequency of which is dependent on road speed, not which gear I am in. 8 I can feel it slightly through the steering wheel. 9 My front brake pads and discs were recently changed and this made no difference to this noise. I reckon this is a wheel bearing failing. My mileage is very high (192k) and I have no idea when these were last done (if ever). My rear bearings are new and were replaced when I replaced the rear discs and pads. This made no difference to the noise. Any other suggestions? I was thinking of just getting both front wheel bearings replaced. Should I replace the CV joints too? I also have got new balljoints and track rod ends waiting to be fitted. Should I get these fitted at the same time as the bearings? Thanks.

A guy gave me this excellent tip for this same problem. It seems that the connector for this sensor at the fusebox can work itself loose. You need to remove the bits of dash under the stearing wheel to get at the fusebox, then get right under (lying on your back if need be) and feel right up behind the back of the fusebox. IIRC it's right up the top at the back. You should feel a connector there. Click it back in if it's loose and hopefully this will solve your problem. I had the exact same problem with mine when I got it and this solved it. Hope this helps. EDIT: Petros, I just noticed you're in Glasgow too. If you don't get what I mean above PM me and I could probably show you.

Just got a Magnex fitted on Friday at Drivers Glasgow (Charing Cross). Well pleased with the result. Great fit. No clunks at all (which is a novelty!). I was surprised with just how quiet it was but my old OEM exhaust was pretty gubbed anyway. Cost was £397.

I'd say a leaking rocker cover gasket too. Mine often has oil there. It's definately not spillage from filling. Hope it is the rocker cover gasket rather than getting blown by the spark plug threads.

Hi all, I just got a Magnex fitted on Friday at Drivers in Glasgow (Charing Cross). Great exhaust, no rattles or clunks at all and very neat fit. I thought had a buzzing sound but on taking it back it turned out to be the CAT heatshield (the one to stop grass going on fire). I can recommend both this exhaust and Drivers. Well run place, clean workshop, helpful staff. Graeme/Graham the fitter chatted away with me for a good while about VWs and his project VR6 Golf. He knows what he's about and will do a good job. All in all it cost £397. It only took one day for the order to be delivered to them too.