aclwalker

i think i already have them abotu £16 each? Yup they're the ones... So other options are new reflectors (still available from VAG? if not ARZ sell them) and clean out the glass front and back.. Just don't expect them to be on a par with Modern/HID lights though.. AFAIK the reflectors are no longer available from VW and haven't been for a long time. You can only buy a complete unit*. I am interested in your comment about ARZ. Who is that? How much do reflectors cost? I have a headlight with a badly corroded reflector because the previous owner ignored a hole in the glass and badly need a new reflector. EDIT: * correction, you can still buy the glass lens separate, which is around £25.

Andy didnt make any and stole my money - and i was one of the 1st on the list. I wouldnt bother waiting TrentSC ! Did NOBODY get a loom? I thought some people had got them. It's a real shame this has happened as he was right keen on it and repsonded to people's comments and suggestions (mine included). I thought I saw him posting on other threads. Can anyone contact him and see what happened? I know he doesn't appear to be answering emails.

I ended up buying a genuine fan from a guy on Ebay. IIRC VW wanted £280 for a new fan, whereas a guy on Ebay was selling them for just over £100. I think he had a job lot. I could dig out his ID if you want. I also had to buy a new cowling as mine had actually fell apart. The Corrado fans are almost the whole size of the radiator so the cowling is very thin in points. Also, some clown had not fitted it properly in the past (presumably when replacing the radiator) so my cowling had got bent and then corroded at this damage point such that it had snapped. A new cowling was £65 from VW, IIRC. I've seen a few of them on Ebay before. I think the Corrado one is specific to the Corrado though, and hence so is the fan. I don't think a Golf or Passat one will work (unless you get the fans too). I kept the original unpowered fan and moved it to my new cowling. Sorry, I don't have the answers to your other questions.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Are these repair wires already attached to the plug? Unfortunately I was forced to cut the wire on the probe (which was brand new) itself in order to connect to the broken wire on the engine-side connector. Your suggestion sounds a good long term solution. It looks like somebody has messed around with the wiring before though, as the signal wires come from a 3 core cable (with the third core unused) while the heater ones come from somewhere else. Thanks

Hi all, I recently replaced my lambda sensor on my 1994 VR6 and it made an incredible difference to the running of the car. There was no fault code with the probe but my mileage is high (199k) and I reckoned it hadn't been changed for ages. My car has never driven as well as it did after this repair. It was incredible. However, I had a bit of difficulty in fitting it, and shortly after the replacement, problems returned and codes started to now appear in VAG-COM about a faulty lambda probe. Basically, the probe that was in originally was a Ford one (I've got a photo of it somewhere I could maybe upload) and all 4 wires were spliced onto a piece of cable with the connector on it (presumably from the previous probe). It really was a mess. However the main problem was that on the engine side connector, the 4th wire (the one that sits alone) was broken and so the 4 way connector had been bypassed for this 4th wire. I was forced to cut the same wire on my new probe and I decided to connect it with crimps (possibly a bad idea), and tape it all up with electrical tape. I didn't press the crimps hard enough the first time, and the second time I think I pressed too hard and broke the strands. I've now done it for a third time (last night) and I'm not sure this repair will last. I soldered the wire onto the crimp as well this time for extra security. I found http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/diagnosis/diagnostic_index.asp, and right down the bottom it describes what each wire is. It would seem that the broken one (it sits on its own) is the signal wire, with the one next to it being earth and the two others being the heater. The wires going to the engine side connector look slightly strange. There's a three core cable from which two of the wires (signal and earth) come from (the third core is simply cut and not connected to anything) while the two heater wires come from somewhere else. Is this normal? I suspect that some of the wiring may have been replaced in the past. It just doesn't look original. Is there any better way of doing this than crimps, such that I can disconnect it in future? I didn't fancy soldering it permanently in case there's a problem later on. Also, is it possible to buy the engine side harness such that I no longer have a broken wire? I'm also missing the rubber hood that covers the connector, so I'm worried about water ingress, although I've taped it all up as best I could. The car is running great again, but I'm worried it will simply deteriorate over the next week or so again. I'm running out of wire with which to make these connections too, hence the desire to replace the engine side harness if possible. Thanks.

A couple of years back I did the Lupo wiper conversion that others have done on here but was rather disappointed with the results. Sure, it wiped better but in heavy rain and wind I got the same old skating and smearing. So, given that I've managed to knock my Corrado 'to do' list down significantly recently (heater matrix and brake pipe renewal being major achievements), I decided to take the whole thing apart and start again. This time I compared mine with the exploded diagram on ETKA and found to my horror that some moron had not only assembled everything totally wrong, but half the washers etc were missing. The upshot of this was that the mechanism was at least 1cm further from the screen than it should have been and was decidedly wobbly. The main culprit was that the washers that go on first and clamp underneath the body were totally missing. The plastic spacers were also the wrong way round, pushing the wipers even further away and also not providing a centering effect on the spindles, hence wobble. No wonder my wiper arms rubbed off the bonnet. So, I ordered all the missing bits and replaced it all on Sunday and now it's all rock solid and wiping far better. I made the classic mistake of assuming that the so-called experts (mechanics) would have assembled everything correctly. The annoying thing is that the wipers have been like this since I got the car, so I could have fixed all this pretty easily nearly 5 years ago had I been bolder (and not had other more pressing problems to attend to!). If you still have problems with yours, I'd advise checking that everything is present and correct first off. EDIT: I have found lots of examples of missing screws, washers etc on my car over the years. If I ever find the moron who's worked on it in the past and broken everything...

My apologies, I only saw the recaro leather mention earlier.

Many Thanks for finding out those links, but I'm afraid, only to 2 ways are available - I have contacted the supplier & they have never made a 4 way male :( A custom connector maker wanted a min order of 2000, so I had to give up... Your name is on the list for a 4 + 4 loom though. Thanks No problem. Is the loom still plug and play then? What are the implications of not having this plug? How is it connected to headlight? Also, when do you want payment? Thanks.

Ooooo, I've got full leather. How much was it new?

I've managed around 36mpg before, driving very gingerly. I've recently replaced the lambda sensor though and I've noticed an improvement so I'll need to re-do that test. I regularly get average trip speeds of 170mph, but that's cos the clock is running about 1/5th speed for some reason.

Can I get one for each side please? Also, do you still have the headlight switch repair kit? If so, then one of those too please. :D Any other homemade repair kits from enterprising Corrado owners I should know about (I've just asked for a headlight loom on the other thread)?

Hey, just spotted this thread. Put me down for the 4 by 4, plug and play Rolls-Royce version please. Am I too late? By the way, did you find a supplier of that mating half plug thing you were looking for? I'm sure I found a website that sold that sort of stuff. I'll try to see if I've got it bookmarked if you want. EDIT: I'm not sure if any of these are the one I found before (bookmarks are on machine at home), but are any of these any use? [link=]http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... ctors.html[/link] [link=]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680[/link] [link=]http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/10271/info.php?p=6&cat=1630[/link] [link=]http://www.connectoronline.com/col/Lista.php[/link]

Well, drove the car today to the dealer today and it was a good bit better. It still conked out a couple of times, but maybe it's just the weather we've been having recently and the flood I had to drive through. Maybe the lambda's drying out. I ordered a new one anyway...

Supercharged, I'm just this minute back from the dealer (on hols) and forgot to ask that while I ordered a selection of obscure parts. Duh! Thanks for letting me know. I wonder why nobody else lists them. Maybe there's not enough profit on them?

RS VR6, I've seen that in-tube restrictor before, but I've also seen ones that look like they 'join' the two pipes together. Anyway, are either of these still available? I'm sure I don't have them in my hoses (I looked!). Are they really required? I would hate to have to do the job again!

I've just checked and I have dipstick 021 115 611 M but should have 021 115 607 according to my chassis number. Does anyone know if these are different lengths? I'm not sure which dipstick tube I have. I can't get at it to look and it might not even be on it or readable. Am I worrying about nothing? I've ordered the guide sleeve anyway, which I should definately have. I'll measure the dipstick once I know which part rests against the guide sleeve.

I didn't know this, but I have wondered why it's so difficult (i.e. not possible) to get a VR6 sump from GSF, ECP, etc, etc. I've got this job on my list for next year and it seems like I'll need to go to the dealer. Anyone know how much a VR6 sump is from VW and why you can't seem to get them elsewhere? Also, should I consider replacing the oil pump when the sump is done? Er, apologies for hijacking your thread! :)

Hi Kev, I don't think the measurements I was making with VAG-COM were Volts. I think it's the actual 'lambda' value. I followed this http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/VR6_ECU_Reset_Procedure I also read somewhere else about lambda and VAG-COM and it said that a lambda of 1.00 is perfect 14.7 air to fuel ratio. More than 1 was lean (IIRC) while less than was rich (again IIRC). Sorry, I can't remember where I read this. I'll see if VAG-COM gives me the voltage too though... It hasn't been chipped. It's a very standard car, almost totally repaired and maintained by me, but I can't do my own MoT. :cry: The guy who does the MoT is very good, fair, and doesn't fail on the usual MoTer unprovable trivia. But one of his boys might have rallied it when taking it to park up the street (he has limited space). I might mention it to him next year if I remember, but I can't prove anything. Nobody else drives it either...

Naughty! Could also be a Vac leak - check the flexi pipe to the tb Thanks, I'll check that.

dr_mat, would a crank sensor problem not also make the car hard to restart for a while? I have no problems starting it again on conking out. I remember the hall sensor on my old Golf failing and it would fail completely and the engine would die and refuse to start for a while. Is the crank sensor not of the same principle as the hall sensor? (I understand that the hall sensor in the VR6 is ignored by the ECU if it fails, but the engine still runs. I guess the crank sensor can't be ignored in the same way.) I reckon the lambda is probably the problem. It could even just be waterlogged as I was forced through a large puddle recently due to the months of rain we've had in Glasgow. ;) I've ordered a new one anyway.

I saw mentions of bypass valves for the heater matrix on another thread and I also remember reading a PDF from VW USA (I think) detailing how to do it all and giving part numbers for various bits including bypass valves and a new fan controller unit (IIRC). Is this bypass valve thing still available? Is the new controller available or even needed? I replaced my heater matrix a few months back but didn't fit a bypass valve and am wondering if I should now. By the way, I did a full write up with photos (including VR6 radiator fan replacement) but have been meaning to upload it since (it needs tidied up a bit first). Please hassle me to complete this!!

I've just found out that there should be a dipstick guide sleeve which is missing on my VR6. I'm thinking that this being missing probably lowers the dipstick down a bit making it over-read, and so I've probably been running low on oil (grrr). Am I correct? If so, how much does a missing guide sleeve make the dipstick over-read by? Secondly, I note that ETKA lists two separate dipstick part numbers for a VR6. I'm not sure (in my bed at the moment and not going out to check!) but I think I might have the dipstick with the other part number from what ETKA tells me. What are the consequences of having the wrong dipstick? Are they different lengths? Should I buy a new dipstick too if I find I've got the earlier one? ETKA lists the following parts for the VR6: 021 115 629 C Dipstick tube >> 50-P-009 000 021 115 629 E Dipstick tube 50-P-009 001>> 053 103 663 Guide funnel (i.e. the plastic guide bit missing from mine) 021 115 611 M Oil dipstick >> 50-P-009 000 021 115 607 Oil dipstick 50-P-009 001>> I think I have the 611 M dipstick (would need to check) but should have the second one. Does anyone know if these are different lengths?

Hi all. I've just VAG-COMed my own 1994 VR6 as it's been conking out at traffic lights a lot recently and hunting on idle when cold and wandering a bit when hot. I get the following codes: 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent 00543 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded -- Engine Warranty VOID! ;-) 35-10 - - - Intermittent 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached - Intermittent I'm guessing the Lambda sensor is the obvious culprit (very high mileage car and probably not replaced for ages (if at all)). The hunting on cold start is making me think twice though. I had a very quick look at the lambda values while idling (engine not quite fully hot, but not cold either) and it seemed to range from just under 0.8 to over 1.2, fluctuating quite a lot. I believe this is quite a big fluctuation, but what is acceptable? I'm assuming the idle speed regulation is a symptom of the general problem rather than the cause. But what about the maximum engine speed sensor code? The text is as is on VAG-COM, smiley and all. I don't red line the car. Have I got a faulty crank speed sensor (camshaft sensor replaced not too long ago)? Or has it really been hammered at my MoT a wee while back? Any help greatly appreciated. Also, a reminder for those in the Glasgow area that I am willing to scan cars (as long as you have the new-style connector).

I'm in Mount Florida in Glasgow and there's at least two others in that small area (although I've only seen 1 of them recently). I also go over to Hamilton regularly. BTW, if any of you in Glasgow (or nearby towns) want your cars scanned with VAG-COM then I'll be willing to it for you. I can only do those with the new style connector, not the old 2x2 connector as I don't have the adapter. EDIT: Petros, was it you that was supposed to get yours scanned a while back but we never got round to arranging it? Did you get your problem sorted in the end?

Do these looms do both the dipped and full beam?