V33DUB

Saw this and thought it may be of use to some of you? :shrug:

Cheers all... what braided hoses do I need? G60 ones?

Pug 306 GTI6 or Rallye? Not sure on general consensus but my mate had one and it was rust free and as reliable as any car I've known. It did like petrol though!!

Hi all! My front pads and discs are gonna need doing in the near future and as my calipers are rusty and in need of some love I was wondering if it's worth upgrading the brakes to the 280mm G60 jobs? Is it the same deal as upgrading from the 16v set up so I'd need G60 calipers, carriers, discs and pads? Cheers

Got a Tom Tom XL Live thing (linky) Advanced lane feature comes in very handy as does the IQ Routes - Calculates the route based on the real average speeds measured on roads. Live traffic updates have made me avoid jams and its easy to use while driving if you want to avoid something or change destination. Can't fault it really.

Is the 40mm quoted about right for the actual drop?

cheers guys :wink:

Anyone?? :(

Anyone know the answer to this? Will a G60 coolant set fit? Or the kit for the 8v Mk3 golf?

[strike:3q2d0hu6]Front engine mount worn[/strike:3q2d0hu6] - Vibra Technics fitted. Thanks pressgang and DG for fitting [strike:3q2d0hu6]Rear disks & pads very worn Rear brake compensator leaking Rear wheel bearings loose[/strike:3q2d0hu6] - Cheers DG again. Nice shiney new bits. [strike:3q2d0hu6]TT Wipers[/strike:3q2d0hu6] - Ordered and received very quickly... thanks Neil (Pat_McCrotch). Fitted and oh my! Worth their weight in gold!! New year Jobs... Fit KW suspension along with all bushes, top mounts and worn parts along those lines Fit the alloys Bits and bobs in engine bay Sort stereo out Fix drivers side window and as long as nothing else decides to break, jobs a good'un for a couple of months (fingers crossed)

Anyone got any recommendations for an ICE fitter in the midlands/warwickshire area?

gonna bite the bullet and TT the bitches... it was a future plan anyway

After collecting my car from DG Autotech yesterday with its nice new rear brakes (discs, pads and compensator were all very worn :pale: ), I strolled out my front door this morning with the ice cold wind in my hair, set about scraping the ice off of my windscreen... lifted the passenger side wiper, scraped underneath, whistled a tune. Went to lift up the drivers side and was left a little dazed and confused when the arm came off in my hands. At 6:30 in the morning this was a little surreal to say the least. The metal has sheared between where it attaches to the spindle and where the arm bends! Can only assume it had a fracture and the cold weather had made it contract expand contract expand until BREAK! Oh and the bonnet cable is snapped so what a lovely job I have this weekend :brickwall:

Fellow 8v and a number plate so so close to mine!

Not had to do that myself, the USB type works fine.Though it will only work in COM port 3 none of the other 3. When I was running it with Windows 2000, it worked like that, I upgraded to XP, and could only get it working like that. Weird. Ho hum, works ok anyway. I believe some of the ebay cables, or at least the one I got, registers the usb connection as a "fake" serial so you have to assign it a port... cant remember the exact technical terms but there is plenty about it on other forums like vortex etc. Not sure I can post links to them on here? Quick google search pings them up anyway. Long story short, after a fiddle with some settings details of which can be found in the a fore mentioned forums and the ebay cable works fine.

Trip to DG Autotech last week resulted in a nice long list of jobs to be done but thankfully nothing to major.... Thermostat stuck open or missing Dizzy Cap, Leads, rotor arm all worn Coolant temp sender reading incorrectly Front top mounts are worn Major oil leak from rotor gasket Oil cooler seal leaking Rear disks & pads very worn Rear bushes in front wishbones worn Front engine mount worn Rear brake compensator leaking Rear axle bushes worn Slight PAS fluid leak Antifreeze needs changing Bottom timing cover damaged Wheel alignment off Rear wheel bearings loose

Hi all... just a quick one. Is mixing tyre brands ok (short term). Will be same size but a mix of toyo and brigestone.This is literaly just to get me through a couple of months with a decent amount of tread. Cheers

I've been reading about lightened and lightweight flywheels but have not completely got to grips with understanding it, so I'm gonna say what I think and ask people to advise if I'm on the right lines... A lightweight flywheel will spin easier and so the revs will go up and down a lot quicker than with a standard one? A lightened stock flywheel will spin easier and so the revs will go up and down quicker than standard but not so quick that on release of the throttle power will dip really bad? From what I've read a lightened off the shelf wheel is definitely not ideal for driving around town? I have an 8v, daily driver so regularly gets town traffic as well as some motorway and country lane speed. Basically I'd like some middle ground so do I go down the lightened stock flywheel route??? :confused4:

Nope. I saw that the bottom cable didn't move when turning the dial from bottom left up to top right (windscreen). Bottom cog was broken and the cause of this. I just kept the dial on 'windscreen' and manually pushed the cable to the position it should have been in to open the vents and refitted everything. Never moved the dial since as it will not engage the windscreen vents when turned back due to the broken cog. Basically now I have windscreen vents open whenever the blowers are on which is mainly what I use them for anyway. Will look at replacing the dial unit or individual cog when its a bit warmer.

what do you mean by the cables are good? I ask because my cables were not broken but one of the cogs was, meaning the cables weren't pushed/pulled in the right way to open the windscreen vents. Also, what heater controls do you have? Early sliders or late style dials?

Found the spring button thing... took the little unit out (just uncliped) and took apart. Cleaned the contacts. Re fitted. Job done! Cheers volksworld13

Hi all, Searched and found lots for the light staying on but nothing for it NOT coming on. Lately, last few days I've noticed it dims slightly when first engaged but but it down to old electrics as after a few seconds of pulling the brake, it did light up fully, but today, parked - handbrake on - nothing??? The handbrake was definitely working as I was on a pretty steep hill and it held. Nothing feels different in the application of the brake. The only thing that might be worth mentioning is I did pull it up 'enthusiastically' lets say and it did click back down a notch. Any ideas? Cheers as always :wink:

Spotted a red'un on the Warwick Road (Olton/Acocks Green area) heading towards Shirley... I was heading in the opposite direction. Not sure what type... valver I think?

Dunno if it helps or if you have already looked at this but: ETKA Link. Part KA is listed as 'b' as if its just the same part different number. There is a SEAT diagram as well, same part numbers and again the KA version just seems to be an alternative.

Anyone know part number for these white rollers? the thread on Corrado Canada Club mentions "535 837 437"... is this correct? Cheers