bobbymkII

agree a full rebuid on kr 16v engine ..and if you want a bit more power....then stick it on some throttle bodies with full stainless 4 branch and system ...or another 16v either a 9A or ABF run on k-jet...but again if your going to spend kind of cash you would on conversion get full rebuild on these engines as well for peace of mind...

the cost of 20vt engine would be same cost to do 16vt....just harder to source parts...no point in doing a VR6 conversion as you can buy the car ... from a personl view ive been in and driven a 20vt mk2 golf running 300bhp and it was insane...so id imagine rado be just as good slightly slower due to weight...ive also been in a 1800 kr 16v turbo technics car running 220bhp and that was also seriously rapid ...but much more reliable...and the VR6 as we all know is epic for its exhaust note and has 190bhp out the box....and again very solid engine...if it was me id go for 16v turbo keep it looking oem under hood...but choice is yours ....or throw spanner in the works why not go nuts and build the god of them all 16v g60....they are bonkers ...in standard form 220bhp ...get it chiped and pulley and some other work will see you 250 easy and reliable...if done with right charger

not had any major work to this car engine wise ....so nothing should of changed...its wierd...as before car was off road would rev to redline and pull like a train...then car went off road for 7 months ...due to lack of cash etc....now spent ££££ on brakes...windscreen..and full service plugs etc etc...and since back on road wont pull past about 5500rpm....so after tinkering about with it and checking it over i did notice the ignition is advanced right round....now car doesnt pink and runs and revs fine just hits limiter at 5500rpm...it is fitted with a KR cam but have no proof just based on previous owners advice and again no idea if previous owner fitted it or was maybe owner before....

been thinking since my car isnt running 100% as seems to hit rev limit at about 5500rpm and always starts 2nd time ...my ignition timming looking at distributor is fully advanced against bolt ...surely this is wrong??? its a corrado 9a 16v....can this be adjusted by simply losen bolt and adjust see if makes a difference or would i run the chance of destroying my car....excuse my stupidness...as joiner not mechanic... ?????????????????????????????

nice one buddy will give that a bash first as i know a man who has 3 or 4 spare...sweet..

what is WOT switch??? and where is it??? on car will check tomorrow...yeah i have new filter and pumps. and new spark plugs and new battery ---------- Post added at 08:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 PM ---------- ah googled it...will check tomorrow... http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.corradoworld.com/article/corrado/g60-tutorial/wot-switch2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.corradoworld.com/article/g60-tutorial.html&usg=__Gwdgo5FMF7-4LEunkgwR1GwPjm4=&h=436&w=576&sz=37&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=lHBh1Iysr3rXcM:&tbnh=128&tbnw=165&ei=-1bdTb70HIGO8gPvuLz6Dw&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwhat%2Bis%2Bcorrado%2Bwot%2Bswitch%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1T4ADRA_enGB372GB373%26biw%3D1259%26bih%3D557%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=134&sqi=2&page=1&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=103&ty=36

took car back out its not a flat spot it hits rev limit at about 5.5k....have done loads of searching and nothing ....is it possible my ecu has lost its memory some how as car sat with not battery for months...put it all back together and just noticed this yesterday as had not really driven car that hard but thought id give it a good bashing ...and weird drives perfect apart from hitting limit way to early...has anybody had this on a 9a 16v???? anybody have a clue how to fix???

my corrado has been off road for months now have all new brakes ,,,fuel pump etc etc....so took it out tonight to give it a proper run in..once got temp up...gave it some full on ...and as you try and accelerate hard as it hits 5k revs it kinda goes flat for a split second almost like hitting rev limiter...apart from that it drives and stops like it should...and ticks over perfect...if anybody can point me in right direction as to what this may be ...as need gone asap as just want my rado running perfect again...

cheers danny..i think its down to fact car has sat for 6 months with just under red in tank

car now running...but once heated up ...as i rev car up to 4k let it come back down its self foot off gas it has a slight back fire as revs pass 2k going down.... just fitted new spark plugs ....car runs fine and idles perfect...just back fire slightly ..... bare in mind this car has sat for 6 months off road in scotland over the coldest winter ever...lol...so no idea if this has something to do with it???? or is it overfueling for some reason????? lambda sensor???? any clues please fire away,,,

car is now running and revs perfect....bought another set of new plugs and boom up she goes 1st time....my only issue now is after car heated up went for a run...it has slight back fire when take foot of the gas and it climbs down the revs if you where pulling upto a giveway and dip clutch revs drop as normaly would but slight back fire...but peformes how its should....so onto that now see if can figure out why...i assume its over fueling??? maybe timming out slightly???

i got mine used on here of a nice chap ...works fine and is also a bosch one...the inline one under the car can be expensive new .,,,the intank one isnt ,,,,but i also got this on forum and again works like new,,,,stick a wanted post up....other think to watch is the pipes under the car at the pump etc can be badly rusted may need replacing and if so your as well to why your there...you can get these from vw or again put wanted post up...or do what i did took my old rusty ones off took to local company called pirtek http://www.pirtek.co.uk/ (are nation wide) or a company like them and they made me new pipes up at the cost of about £20 and far better than vw's as also stainless so wont ever rust again....they also done my power steering pipes on a mk2 16v again about £20 i nstead of ££££££ and again better quality

will be the inline fuel pump under the car...i had same issue...replaced the intank pump and sender didnt work...then the inline pump where the filter is ...especialy be this pump if when you turn ignition on and it primes makes nasty noises or very loud...as now mine is replaced when ignition goes on no noise smooth as... could be that new fuel filter is now showing up a weak pump ...as you do find on older vw's if you replace 1 part it always leads to another as new parts make weak parts weaker depending on what are of the car you work on...

is it possible that the coolant sensor for ecu could stop the car starting????? or can the lambda sensor stop car starting???

cheers buddy...ive done a search on this and keep hitting a brick wall...although after reading up ....could be the ISV. or oxygen sensor making it over fuel so soaking the plugs...fook knows...keep answers comming

right the car in questions fuel pump died...so stuck on intank pump plus inline pump and new filter and car would not start....so left it a few days it started but ran ruff...cut out and died....so thought maybe new spark plugs ...so got them fitted....and started first time but again ran like a pile of spanners.... having to keep foot on revs to stop it cutting out...see video below...once car cut out again it wont start again but will in a few days but again same as before...will struggle then cut out if foot not on gas....see video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJJeWqd_fl8 right ive tried everything..car is getting spark and fuel will start but not run and then wont start for days ...anybody who can solve this will get a huge huge beer at one of the shows this year

kr cams ...k&n panel filter ...drilled air box...stainless system with cat bypass(keep cat for mot)... do not convert the car from 16v to g60 or vr6 never build a car you can buy...if you want a vr6 or g60 sell the 16v and buy one....but im all for 20vt conversion as seriously rapid cars ....or why not keep the 16v engine and turbo that ????? or spend mega bucks and again keep the 16v but build 16v g60...

had mate out today done my discs and pads and ran vag com on car shows no faults nothing zero...so good news...he checked it over and narrowed down to only possibly cause being sparke plugs goosed....as getting fuel ...getting spark at disctributor and end of lead so doing all of what it should except fire up so stick new spark plugs in tomorrow and fingers crossed....suppose leaving a rado parked up for 6-7 months doesnt help...but moving in right direction

wtf why on gods earth would you rip out a turbo technics 16vt....must be off there heads..old skool way far better

german ebay bets place buddy.....you can run stock internals upto about 250bhp with stacked gasket or a proper double thickness gasket for turbo kit ...will need to upgrade to g60 brakes for increase on power as your stock brakes wont hold out if your planning on some really hard driving...my mate runs a mk2 16v turbo puts out 230bhp all stock internals and stock gear box and clutch...has extra oil cooler in there as well it runs quiet as a mouse untill you hit the fun pedal...great motors and if your planning on 250+ bhp you can achive crazy figures with a 1800 16v if you start spending crazy money on upgrade internals etc etc...but you will find 200bhp is spot on as once you start creeping above and beyond can be pointless especialy in wet weather as no traction...but all good when dry and in a straight line ...jusr depends what you want ...

cheers danny ...will get a look today just oot ma bed

done some more digging and this poped up.... The Hall sender usually announces its imminent failure with some very rough running (random misfires) interspersed with backfires and subsequently (and very soon after) the engine dies. possible cause after car sitting for so long....hence it did start then do as it says above..

thanks will try injectors tomorrow .....didnt bleed injectors??? didnt think would be needed and have no idea how to...do have a mate comming round on saturday so hopefully he can figure out whats up...has built a few cars so should be easy for him id imagine....

checked metering head plus metal flap all good...fitted fully charged battery all good...checked was getting fuel through system and presure all good...checked lam/sensor all good....checked all breather pipes all good....so checked distribution cap and rotor arm Not so good???? the rotor arm looks fine...the dis/cap on other hand was looking used and abused...the 4 brass metal points all burnt and scorched??? could this stop car from starting???? ive seen worse and cars in past have been fine???

yes fresh fuel as i knew it was low on fuel so filled a can and stuck that it as well ...wierd how it started then died ...still will give it another go tomorrow fingers crossed it fires up...as needs m.o.t for some summer loving....will update tomorrow hopefully with good news...cheers for replys ---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 PM ---------- i see this could possibly be the flap inside the metering head ???? bit sticky if car been sitting for so long...